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need info on this car

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Old 02-20-2013, 01:46 PM
  #26  
crash118s
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Default RE: need info on this car

yea, i not gonna run that mount.
i did get some info that the rc8 buggy body will go on this one with 2 spots u have to trim about another cm off and itll fit perfectly.  and i was told that most of the parts on this car will go to a mbx6r chassis(by u foxy and another person).  so im gonna buy a mbx6r chassis, move stuff over and then buy the motor mount u suggested and the entire conversion kit from i think is tower hobbies or its a-main hobbies.  one of them has the kit.  ill have to buy some new a-arms and towers i believe but i found a good place to get them fairly cheap so i can handle that.

then a 1/8 castle system and im still looking for a cheap-ish 6s lipo but i found a 4s that might work....i still dont know what the ratings mean but im jut gonna get one that should work
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:01 AM
  #27  
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I don't think you need to change the chassis unless its tweaked (scratches are fine), and I'm really not sure if they are compatible. Sure, you will be able to MOUNT the parts from your MBX5 on the MBX6 chassis, but then you might find that you need the MBX6 driveshafts or MBX6 chassis braces (for example). I'm really not sure what you'll need, but its a golden rule...don't mix and match, it just causes problems. Stick with MBX5 parts, I'm very worried you're gonna make it worse by mixing mbx6 parts (when I say make it worse, I mean spend more money and still not get the result you want).

Recap on what you need, just get this stuff first...and see what you need after, don't waste money unless you have to.

Motor mount
Battery tray
Reciever box (you can just stick the receiver down somwhere inside a cut condom or water balloon for waterproofing, you don't really need a box)
Shock rebuild kit
Wing
ESC and Motor combo
Pinion (start with a 16/17/18 if you are going to run 4S, or a 13/14 if you will run 6S), 4S and 6S are the number of cells in the battery and will directly correlate to the final rpm (top speed) of the motor. 6S is plain insanity in a buggy, 4S will be fine.

I also strongly recommend getting the plastic spur gear as well, its very cheap and makes the car much smoother and quieter, it will last (as long as you put a good motor mount and set the mesh well), don't worry.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:44 AM
  #28  
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ok foxy, i ordered the motor mount u posted, the battery tray. a few other parts. i stripped the chassis all the way down and cleaned the parts, chassis, my uncle looked at the shocks and he said they are fine for now(just to practice driving the car). he will rebuild them for me when i get the hang of the car. he said its a nice set up for a beginner. the sway bars it had a sticker on them....one of them says 2.9 on the rear and a 2.4 on the front...can u tell me what this is?? i found a place that sells the rock gueards for it(the black plastic on the sides of the chassis) i bought those. im gonna get it to a complete roller before i buy a brushless combo, and im gonna pick up a flysky gt3b radio from hobby parts. are turnigy lipos any good?
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:50 AM
  #29  
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Default RE: need info on this car

Turnigy lipos are great for the money.

The numbers on the sway bar stickers are the thickness (and therefore rating) of the sway bars in millimeters. More=stiffer. The stock ones are ideal for general use.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:54 AM
  #30  
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ok, it has a 2.9 on the rear and a 2.4 on the front.  i dont knw what the stock ones were or if these are the stock ones but this car is pretty stiff
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:02 AM
  #31  
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No need to think about them yet. For your reference, sway bars do 2 things... Primarily, they cause the center of gravity to lower during cornering. As the weight shifts to one side of the car, the shock on the outside of the car/corner cannot compress on its own due to the sway bar, it causes both sides to compress, effectively lowering the car. They also cause an effect which increases grip at the opposite end of the car, i.e. thicker front swaybar means more planted rear, and vice versa.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:05 AM
  #32  
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Ok....so I'm still looking for a few odds and ends for this thing but it not as bad as I thought it would be
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:47 PM
  #33  
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foxy, i had to show u this..........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IPbxAozoN0
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:17 AM
  #34  
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I would never do something so ghetto to one of my cars, but if that's your bag and you wanna give it a try, go for it, the tekno conversions are decent quality.
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:07 AM
  #35  
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iim not sure about drilling out holes tho.....if its anything like my real race car its something else to shift and tear alot of stuff up when it binds up
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:44 PM
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I agree, butchering parts to make them fit is not cool unless there's absolutely no other way.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:39 PM
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Yep, I give up!!  Anyone need a parts car for an mbx5r?  It has wheels and tires and its been cleaned up pretty good and all the "junk" has been taken off of it.  I doubt ill see my money back from it but it wouldn't hurt so bad to get something out of it
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:57 AM
  #38  
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Default RE: need info on this car


ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM


ORIGINAL: crash118s

just out of curiosity, will the differentials or suspension arms or anything on this car go on a mbx6r chassis?

jconcepts does not have the body for the mbx5r anymore and it says the mbx6 body does not fit it. im not sure what to do with this car anymore
Personally I don't trust jconcepts I've bought their bodies for the RC they said they were for, and they didn't fit...
Technically any 1/8 buggy body should fit as they are a spec, just might have to make minor modifications like make the mounting holes in a spot other then they marked

I've bought a used race truggy once, honestly it was in way worst condition then the pictures shown, and needed hours of work to bring it up to running condition(the diffs cases were loaded with clay even...). Only good thing is that it shares the parts with my buggy, and in case anything was bad I already had a spare full sets of diffs, and a fair bit of other parts.

Just think of it as a learning experience we all do a bad buy eventually, but you learn what to look out for in the end.
I made the same mistake buying used nitro vehicle before and after fixing everything it wasn't worth the savings I had buying used. I would just do as Foxy said and take the good parts and sell them on ebay individually. Make your money back and cut your loses.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:29 AM
  #39  
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well im looking for 150 out of the car as a whole.  im gonna lose money at that price but i gotta try and get most of my money back

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Old 03-01-2013, 08:48 PM
  #40  
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im in need of a 1/8 car that isnt impossible to get on the track for the upcoming season.  i bought the above car and its just not gonna make it and i cant get out of it. 

i have a car audio amp thats NIB with all wires, cables, and power/ground cables($400 alone) that i can trade for just a roller!

is there anyone that can help me out with a trade?
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