JohnP2

I have three small button head screws (M3x12mm) that are stripped. These are ones that bolt the front tower onto the bulkhead (and two are a bit tricky to get to).

My questions:
1. Before I dremel them out, are there any otherthings I can try?
2. While I have a good dremel kit (it was a gift), I'm a bull in a china shop with it. Can anyone recommend a good cutting wheel to use with it?
3. In the past I've converted to slot to get them out....but again with these being so small and in 'hard to reach' locations I'm worried about jacking up my tower. I'm replacing the diff housing, so don't care about that..worst case scenario I'll just chop that up. ;-)

Any and all tips for dremeling stripped screws is duly appreciated.

Thanks!

Dads like rc too

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...m.htm#11079356

i8tweety

My Feedback: (11)

If you are tossing the bulkhead they are actually threaded into, I would just use a drill and remove the head off the bolt that way.

Big Alice

   These work pretty well if you get to the point of drilling it out. If they catch it unscrews it. If not you drill the head off.  http://richtoolsystems.com/index.php...Fah7QgodzxoAjQ

JohnP2

Thanks guys. This sounds good. Unfortunately, can't see the image in the linked post from dadslikerctoo. Is there a link to the specific bit? Is this something I can use with the dremel? I only have a high-speed drill that goes in one direction.Or, is the fact the bit is reversed do the trick? Sorry for the stupid questions....just trying to learn everything I can on it to do the best job.

JohnP2

Also, I'm looking to upgrade some of my vehicles with screw sets. All this wrenching takes a toll, so want to find something that will strip tools before screws (titanium?). Has anyone used these screw sets, and if so are they worth the money?

Thanks

Big Alice

  you need a new drill.   The drill has to turn ccw.  And you want to be able to slow it down so the bit has a chance to grab and unscrew it. At full speed it'll just drill the head off. It's just a set of drill bits that turn left to cut instead of right. Google "left handed drill bits".  They come in handy quite often.  You'll need a new drill, though.  lol

phmaximus

Humm my thought..... By the sounds if u drill the heads off the screws and remove the tower, the threads should be sticking out from the bulkhead right? And the amount sticking out should be equall to the thickness of the bulk head.

That should be just enough thread to grip with some plyers or even slot the top of the thread?

t-max97

My Feedback: (9)

John, why is it I can almost always tell if it's your thread just by the title?

Ttowntoolman

I always use left handed drill bits in these situations, but you dont have the correct drill to use them. Phmaximus I think your on to the right idea here considering the situation as presented.

cumquat

never used these on hex, but i have on Philips with proper results http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-..._tnt=39869:4:0
best part is, no drill required. any 1/4" bit driver will work. a nut driver, ratchet or even pliers can be used in a pinch.

pcarluvr

I have seen this work but I have not tried it. While I was working in an automotive repair shop, an old wrencher told me to put a dab of valve grinding compound on the screw and slowly turn the screw driver and the screw will come out. I thought he was nutz till I saw him do it. This was on a couple license plate bulb lenses with tiny rusted screws that held the lens on. Not that most people have any valve grinding compound lying around but if you do or know someone who has some, may be worth a try!

Dads like rc too

These are almost identical to the ones in my link that won't show the picture.

nitroexpress

I would think that micro screw extraction would need a micro tool.
In most cases, with these small scrrews,it's not necessary to predrill.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0TS2NLjNuc

big JC

My Feedback: (1)

Get yourself a set of easy outs like these

 http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/2028506...5#.UWoBbUnn_4g

from home depot, not expensive.

Chances are you will not need to drill anything as one of the easy out's will fit right in the stripped out hex head hole. Easy peasy done.

As am sure you know the key to avoiding stripped screws is good tools. As soon as the screw begins to show some age (where the tool to screw interface is no longer snug) replace it. Likewise when your tool begins to show wear, replace it. Don't know much about the titanium screw kits but can say the stainless one's are softer than stock kit screws. All I ever do is go to my local ace hardware and stock up on the most common screws I use, usually m3 of various lengths. That way you don't end up with a bunch of screws you'll never use but have plenty on hand of the screws you do use.

phmaximus

Ive never seen easy outs that are small enough for rc use... wonder if the number 1 would work? its right on the limit

Dads like rc too

the link will now display the picture. You'll notice these are much smaller than the typical "easy outs". They're very strong and work great.

big JC

My Feedback: (1)

That's a good point, but there are definitely easy outs small enough for RC out there. What's an m3? 2.5 I think? So you could even buy several sizes at Home Depot <2.5. I have some super small easy outs. Not sure where they came from or what they're for , maybe a watch smith. I've been twisting wrenches for a looooong time and easy outs have always worked for me in the auto/boat world (never strip rc stuff). Of coarse there is a technique & finagle to everything.

JohnP2

Thanks for all the great advice. My preference is to try something that won't require an adjustable speed/directional drill. I think I'll check out those easy outs. Might bring an M3 screw (which is a 2.0, btw) to Home Depot. If that does not work will try to dremel slots, and if that does not work will drill off heads and pull off tower.

Below is a pic. They are circled in red. One of them actually goes to the camber link, so I can clamp the stand-off with needle-nose and wrench nylon nut off. I should get to this in a few days...will let you know how to turns out. Thanks again.

big JC

My Feedback: (1)

I'll tell you what John while it may be hard to tell from the pics, those screws don't appear to be to far gone. Maybe you've tried this dunno, but with screws that have  some meat left on them give this a shot.. Get a new crisp edged allen key. Instead of inserting it straight into the screw, put it in the screw then pull the allen key over to an angle. As you back the screw out try to keep as much force right at the points of where the allen key meets the screws thus having to change the angle as you're driving the screw out.  Not the easiest thing to articulate  but hopefully you get the gist of it.  Also other than the screw that's inset, the other 2 look pretty straight forward to dremel with out the risk of scratching anything else up. An easy out may not have enough bite depending on how deep the screw hole is, but you should be able to determine this if you bring the screw with you when you buy one.

JohnP2

big JC - You were spot on! After my last post, I went out and started tinkering. Tried four different 2mm drivers (as well as some other sized drivers).

Below did the trick. All three came out no problem. Rock-n-roll! ;-)

big JC

My Feedback: (1)

Not sure on hot bodies hardware, but my losi is mostly standard. Maybe the hot bodies is not metric?

Sigma.40

My Feedback: (1)

I wish I could find something to use my Dremel on . When I didn't own one, I needed one everyday. Then I went and bought the most expensive Dremel i could find and now I have absolutely no use for it.

phmaximus

Bahahahahaharrr..... That's so true... Lol I know exactly what u mean...

I've hardly used mine. All I did was some work on a 26cc motor, since then I've only used it twice... I don't know might polish my wedding band lol

SyCo_VeNoM

I'm like the total opposite my dremel has been used so much I need a new one
parts I replaced so far was the chuck 2X, every bit like 5X, repaired the cord.
Now it needs new brushes (if there are any left and the shaft ain't shot) but the things that hold the brushes in are melted to it lol
I guess I should just dremel em out.... DOH!