Is this a good setup?
11-10-2013, 02:35 PM
#27
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haha...I'm not in anyway an E10 fan, but the guy's looking for inexpensive options. That's one. I've seen one guy run one. I don't think he did anything to it and it seemed to perform just fine for an entry level car.
11-10-2013, 06:22 PM
#28
Nar they are not that bad I had a e10 for a few years... It was ok at best.. They are great for drifting, but as a touring car they suck.... The plastic axles, plastic diff pinion and main shaft really let it down on brushless power allso I've seen manny people in the e10 forum having problems with the plastic motor mount and stripping the spur gear. So if u can put up with the wheel screws striping the thread on the axles. Or stripping the spur gear or diff pinion gear on light brushless power and crazy vibration from the stock main shaft well it's not to bad at all.... Sure all these problems can be fixed with HPI CVD's, HPI main shaft, HPI alloy motor mount and the slash 4x4 diff pinion mod. But u shouldn't have to. Where things like the vintage tamiya cars... TL01 or the more recent TT01 don't need any of that... They are durable right from day one...
the only reson I had so much success with my e10 was because.... I had nearly every possible genuine HPI upgrade from day one and a lot of other aftermarket upgrades.... But over all it would of been cheaper for me to get a MST FS-01.....
the only reson I had so much success with my e10 was because.... I had nearly every possible genuine HPI upgrade from day one and a lot of other aftermarket upgrades.... But over all it would of been cheaper for me to get a MST FS-01.....
11-12-2013, 10:28 AM
#29
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The JL10 he chose before was a great choice.
Huh? We've already been through this...You want a sensored motor for a drift car and you want a better servo than that or you won't be able to change direction fast enough.
The Venom charger is more expensive and 25% less powerful than the AC6 I linked you before
The battery is more expensive and has lower current rating than the Gens Ace I linked you befpre
The motor you have linked is more expensive and not sensored. The Hobbywing set I linked you before is cheaper and sensored and will give you almost the same wheel speed as the Reedy set, onl deliver it much more smoothly.
A 20 buck servo will not be satisfactory in a drift car. You need to be able to change direction quickly to flick it into drifts, etc. You want at least .15 transit speed, like the servo I linked you earlier which is only 30 bucks.
You will also save on delivery by getting more stuff from the same place (Hobbypartz has the battery, charger, radio and motor/ESC combo).
Do you understand why this stuff is better? If not, I can explain in more detail...
ok so this is what came up with
OFNA JL10 1/10 scale drift car chassis
Venom 20C 2S 4000mAh 7.4V LiPO Hard Case
Charger: Easy Balance AC LiPO Charger from venom
FlySky FS-GT3B Digital 3ch 2.4ghz TX & RX LCD Transmitter & Receiver
Team Associated Electrics - ASC966 - 966 XP SC700-BL ESC/Reedy 540-SL 3900kV
and for the pinion im using a 48p 17T pinion gear
and for the servo im going to use this one that i found cost like 20 bucks but it will work.
OFNA JL10 1/10 scale drift car chassis
Venom 20C 2S 4000mAh 7.4V LiPO Hard Case
Charger: Easy Balance AC LiPO Charger from venom
FlySky FS-GT3B Digital 3ch 2.4ghz TX & RX LCD Transmitter & Receiver
Team Associated Electrics - ASC966 - 966 XP SC700-BL ESC/Reedy 540-SL 3900kV
and for the pinion im using a 48p 17T pinion gear
and for the servo im going to use this one that i found cost like 20 bucks but it will work.
The Venom charger is more expensive and 25% less powerful than the AC6 I linked you before
The battery is more expensive and has lower current rating than the Gens Ace I linked you befpre
The motor you have linked is more expensive and not sensored. The Hobbywing set I linked you before is cheaper and sensored and will give you almost the same wheel speed as the Reedy set, onl deliver it much more smoothly.
A 20 buck servo will not be satisfactory in a drift car. You need to be able to change direction quickly to flick it into drifts, etc. You want at least .15 transit speed, like the servo I linked you earlier which is only 30 bucks.
You will also save on delivery by getting more stuff from the same place (Hobbypartz has the battery, charger, radio and motor/ESC combo).
Do you understand why this stuff is better? If not, I can explain in more detail...
Last edited by Foxy; 11-12-2013 at 10:52 AM.
11-13-2013, 04:36 PM
#30
Sorry foxy I dident mean to step on your toes....
i agree that the JL10 would be a great car to bash anywhere and looks very durable, but I think the OP might be talking about the JL10e.... Where I would not recommend that unless it's going to be a track car..... For reasons mentioned before regarding the durability of exposed belts.
me personally don't see any advantage in a drift car with a senseless system... But that's just me...I've never owned a sensored system
so I can't really comment... i plan to get one one day...it's just the sensorless combos are just so cheap... The only issues I've seen with a sensorless drift car(hobao 10e) is a super, super slow speeds say 1km/h with 5% throttle it's gets slight clogging. It's not really a issue tho... Because just a touch more throttle and it stops.. I guess a sensored combo would stop that. But is it worth it?
but foxy is dead right..... The most important electric part of a drift car is the servo... It needs to be as fast as your hands... Otherwise u will be making all these steering inputs and the servo will be lagging behind.
u may think what's 0.1second going to do...
If u are continuously varying the steering, a slower servo can't keep up... It will problary spend the whole time in transit and never getting to where it's going. Where something faster will be where it's going when it's needed.
A great example is get a cheap 0.2 sec servo... If u go from left to right as fast as u can on the controller. The servo kind of hick ups... And doesn't know where to go...
do that on a 0.1 servo... And it keeps up because its twice the speed. They are that fast u can make the car look like its shaking lol...
might not be a good idea for people with arthritis tho.... Lol joking
i agree that the JL10 would be a great car to bash anywhere and looks very durable, but I think the OP might be talking about the JL10e.... Where I would not recommend that unless it's going to be a track car..... For reasons mentioned before regarding the durability of exposed belts.
me personally don't see any advantage in a drift car with a senseless system... But that's just me...I've never owned a sensored system
so I can't really comment... i plan to get one one day...it's just the sensorless combos are just so cheap... The only issues I've seen with a sensorless drift car(hobao 10e) is a super, super slow speeds say 1km/h with 5% throttle it's gets slight clogging. It's not really a issue tho... Because just a touch more throttle and it stops.. I guess a sensored combo would stop that. But is it worth it? but foxy is dead right..... The most important electric part of a drift car is the servo... It needs to be as fast as your hands... Otherwise u will be making all these steering inputs and the servo will be lagging behind.
u may think what's 0.1second going to do...
If u are continuously varying the steering, a slower servo can't keep up... It will problary spend the whole time in transit and never getting to where it's going. Where something faster will be where it's going when it's needed.
A great example is get a cheap 0.2 sec servo... If u go from left to right as fast as u can on the controller. The servo kind of hick ups... And doesn't know where to go...
do that on a 0.1 servo... And it keeps up because its twice the speed. They are that fast u can make the car look like its shaking lol...
might not be a good idea for people with arthritis tho.... Lol joking
11-13-2013, 05:36 PM
#31
Sorry foxy I dident mean to step on your toes....
i agree that the JL10 would be a great car to bash anywhere and looks very durable, but I think the OP might be talking about the JL10e.... Where I would not recommend that unless it's going to be a track car..... For reasons mentioned before regarding the durability of exposed belts.
i agree that the JL10 would be a great car to bash anywhere and looks very durable, but I think the OP might be talking about the JL10e.... Where I would not recommend that unless it's going to be a track car..... For reasons mentioned before regarding the durability of exposed belts.
The JL10e Drift is belt, and has quite a bit different design
11-14-2013, 12:39 AM
#32
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Sorry foxy I dident mean to step on your toes....
i agree that the JL10 would be a great car to bash anywhere and looks very durable, but I think the OP might be talking about the JL10e.... Where I would not recommend that unless it's going to be a track car..... For reasons mentioned before regarding the durability of exposed belts.
me personally don't see any advantage in a drift car with a senseless system... But that's just me...I've never owned a sensored system so I can't really comment... i plan to get one one day...it's just the sensorless combos are just so cheap... The only issues I've seen with a sensorless drift car(hobao 10e) is a super, super slow speeds say 1km/h with 5% throttle it's gets slight clogging. It's not really a issue tho... Because just a touch more throttle and it stops.. I guess a sensored combo would stop that. But is it worth it?
but foxy is dead right..... The most important electric part of a drift car is the servo... It needs to be as fast as your hands... Otherwise u will be making all these steering inputs and the servo will be lagging behind.
u may think what's 0.1second going to do...
If u are continuously varying the steering, a slower servo can't keep up... It will problary spend the whole time in transit and never getting to where it's going. Where something faster will be where it's going when it's needed.
A great example is get a cheap 0.2 sec servo... If u go from left to right as fast as u can on the controller. The servo kind of hick ups... And doesn't know where to go...
do that on a 0.1 servo... And it keeps up because its twice the speed. They are that fast u can make the car look like its shaking lol...
might not be a good idea for people with arthritis tho.... Lol joking
i agree that the JL10 would be a great car to bash anywhere and looks very durable, but I think the OP might be talking about the JL10e.... Where I would not recommend that unless it's going to be a track car..... For reasons mentioned before regarding the durability of exposed belts.
me personally don't see any advantage in a drift car with a senseless system... But that's just me...I've never owned a sensored system
so I can't really comment... i plan to get one one day...it's just the sensorless combos are just so cheap... The only issues I've seen with a sensorless drift car(hobao 10e) is a super, super slow speeds say 1km/h with 5% throttle it's gets slight clogging. It's not really a issue tho... Because just a touch more throttle and it stops.. I guess a sensored combo would stop that. But is it worth it? but foxy is dead right..... The most important electric part of a drift car is the servo... It needs to be as fast as your hands... Otherwise u will be making all these steering inputs and the servo will be lagging behind.
u may think what's 0.1second going to do...
If u are continuously varying the steering, a slower servo can't keep up... It will problary spend the whole time in transit and never getting to where it's going. Where something faster will be where it's going when it's needed.
A great example is get a cheap 0.2 sec servo... If u go from left to right as fast as u can on the controller. The servo kind of hick ups... And doesn't know where to go...
do that on a 0.1 servo... And it keeps up because its twice the speed. They are that fast u can make the car look like its shaking lol...
might not be a good idea for people with arthritis tho.... Lol joking
With respect PH, and we've had this conversation before...sensored vs sensorless is a huge difference, and particularly valuable for drifting. It is not just the low speed cogging that is eliminated, its a different feel to throttle response. On a dedicated drift car, I wouldn't put brushless at all anyway, I'd go brushed.
11-14-2013, 03:53 PM
#33
Ahh cool... I wasn't to sure what one he ment, so I though I'll just put it out there.
i know, I know, I shouldn't keep going on about sensorless and sensored, it's just I don't fully understand it... I think when I get to see and feel the differences I'll shut up..lol
im heading down to the track today with a mate and my brother... My bro has a Novak sensored combo in a DF03r... Might see if his kids will swap cars for a bit...
i know, I know, I shouldn't keep going on about sensorless and sensored, it's just I don't fully understand it... I think when I get to see and feel the differences I'll shut up..lol
im heading down to the track today with a mate and my brother... My bro has a Novak sensored combo in a DF03r... Might see if his kids will swap cars for a bit...
11-15-2013, 10:21 AM
#34
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Drift cars are tricky....
Generally any car can drift......
It really depends on where u plan to run it...
if u are mainly planing to drift in carpark lots I would recommend anything shaft driven like the tt01.... But I wouldn't recommend using a belt driven chassis for that... All it takes is a little rock to end the day.
The only belt driven car that I would recommend for that would be the tamiya XV-01, because it has in closed belts...
if u plan to use it at the track or very clean surfaces then defiantly check out some of the other belt driven chassis out there and even the more dedicated drift chassis with the motor up front.
The die hard drift chassis are awesome, the drift angles they can hold is amazing.... A tt01 would only dream of drifting that well on a track.
personally I wouldn't even worry about counter steer drifting. It requires a crazy amount of skill and great knowledge of setting up drift cars...it's very hard to CS drift
my recommendation would be the Tamiya XV01 pro... It will preform and drift better than any shaft driven chassis and would have a good chance against some of the other belt driven chassis. The best part about the XV01 is u can drift anywhere and don't have to worry about dirt, rocks, water dust.... Anything really
oh yeah it can do one thing.... And it's the best in its class....... Drift like a king on dirt or loose gravel. Because it has the motor up front it pivots on the front wheels... Kind of like a slot car or a front wheel drive RC car, but without the under steer.
IMO it would make the best bash/rally/drift car for durability and versatility out on today's market
Generally any car can drift......
It really depends on where u plan to run it...
if u are mainly planing to drift in carpark lots I would recommend anything shaft driven like the tt01.... But I wouldn't recommend using a belt driven chassis for that... All it takes is a little rock to end the day.
The only belt driven car that I would recommend for that would be the tamiya XV-01, because it has in closed belts...
if u plan to use it at the track or very clean surfaces then defiantly check out some of the other belt driven chassis out there and even the more dedicated drift chassis with the motor up front.
The die hard drift chassis are awesome, the drift angles they can hold is amazing.... A tt01 would only dream of drifting that well on a track.
personally I wouldn't even worry about counter steer drifting. It requires a crazy amount of skill and great knowledge of setting up drift cars...it's very hard to CS drift
my recommendation would be the Tamiya XV01 pro... It will preform and drift better than any shaft driven chassis and would have a good chance against some of the other belt driven chassis. The best part about the XV01 is u can drift anywhere and don't have to worry about dirt, rocks, water dust.... Anything really
oh yeah it can do one thing.... And it's the best in its class....... Drift like a king on dirt or loose gravel. Because it has the motor up front it pivots on the front wheels... Kind of like a slot car or a front wheel drive RC car, but without the under steer.
IMO it would make the best bash/rally/drift car for durability and versatility out on today's market
