View Poll Results: Which Motor?
Viper VST 17.5T-25.5T
1
16.67%
Orion Vortex 17.5T-25.5T
0
0%
TrakPower 17.5T-25.5T
0
0%
Reedy Sonic Mach 2 17.5T-25.5T
2
33.33%
Novak SS 17.5T
3
50.00%
Voters: 6. You may not vote on this poll
RC Plow Truck Motor Decision/Choices
#51
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A Holmes Hobbies 55T. I ran it some more today with the heat sink on, it smoked a little, but then it was fine. It didn't seem to burn anymore after that last smoke period. It seems like it's ok. Maybe some paint was burning off? Or some snow got on it? Not sure. I found that it delivers more current in cold temps. Now it's doing pretty good. I've tried the V-plow, and sure it works, but it takes twice as long to plow an area. I've already minimized my plow width to make it easier to push, so I kinda want to stick with that. Motor wise though, should I get a GRU, keep using this motor and do more ramming snow than steadily pushing it, or what? It's not a major problem now, but with my luck, I'll probably have overheating issues in the future.
#52
hard to imagine a 55t not working well....but the tl01 must have a much higher gear ratio than any crawler.
1'' of snow I would think it could push. but you say that you have to ram it instead of steady push it?
did you oil the motor? I tried to oil a motor once, used the wrong type of oil and it smoked a ton until all the oil was burned off.
There shouldn't be any smoke from paint or decals. Steam maybe, if the motor was hot and a bunch of snow hit it...but usually snow will just melt slowly.
And Ive had 27t, 35t, 50t, 70t and 100t motors in various crawlers all running in snow and never had one get hot on me. 110 degrees at most.
Might be cheaper to try and trade or sell the tl01 for a crawler. a rs10 or venom creeper can be found for $80-$150. Either of them would push snow with ease.
1'' of snow I would think it could push. but you say that you have to ram it instead of steady push it?
did you oil the motor? I tried to oil a motor once, used the wrong type of oil and it smoked a ton until all the oil was burned off.
There shouldn't be any smoke from paint or decals. Steam maybe, if the motor was hot and a bunch of snow hit it...but usually snow will just melt slowly.
And Ive had 27t, 35t, 50t, 70t and 100t motors in various crawlers all running in snow and never had one get hot on me. 110 degrees at most.
Might be cheaper to try and trade or sell the tl01 for a crawler. a rs10 or venom creeper can be found for $80-$150. Either of them would push snow with ease.
#53
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was right... I officially blew up. Smoke and stench everywhere. (I could smell it from over 200ft away because I was down wind. I was doing long range plowing.) Anyway, I can't afford a crawler, I'm down to $40. I liked the speed of the 55T. I wouldn't mind going just a little slower. I want a speed like that, only with twice the torque or more. What should I get. I was thinking 35T motor with a 2:1 reduction unit. Will this work? Will it be too slow, or what?
I can't find a Venom Creeper or RS10 for less than $125...
I can't find a Venom Creeper or RS10 for less than $125...
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Kingston UK, but living in Athens, GREECE
Posts: 18,082
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
I'm afraid if you want to keep this project rolling (or plowing) you are going to need to go to a 1/8th brushless system to get teh resilience you need. Or a more purpose designed crawling/mudding platform.
Why don't you just buy a RC4WD 6x6 Blackwell Beast (google it)? lol.
Why don't you just buy a RC4WD 6x6 Blackwell Beast (google it)? lol.
#61
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't really need the plow angle. It actually pushes out of the way instead of building up so much. If I were to do I plow angle, I think I would do a fixed one. Anyway, those are suggestions that I can't adapt to. I've spent over $200 and I'm down to like $25 left in pocket book. I can get $40 here soon, but that's no where near a SCX10. Plus Mom and Dad don't give that big of gifts. I end up buying most of my RC stuff because it's so expensive. I need to make this work. I want a GRU, but not sure what motor to get or what ratio reducer to use. Any ideas?
#62
#63
I was right... I officially blew up. Smoke and stench everywhere. (I could smell it from over 200ft away because I was down wind. I was doing long range plowing.) Anyway, I can't afford a crawler, I'm down to $40. I liked the speed of the 55T. I wouldn't mind going just a little slower. I want a speed like that, only with twice the torque or more. What should I get. I was thinking 35T motor with a 2:1 reduction unit. Will this work? Will it be too slow, or what?
I can't find a Venom Creeper or RS10 for less than $125...
I can't find a Venom Creeper or RS10 for less than $125...
i think some guys might of not realised how tall the gearing is on a Tl01 with mt wheels
i still reccomend the HPI GRU with the stock motor
i know the video of mine looked slow but that's because it was at 1/4 throttle... And its a 2400kv motor... On 2s.
My advice would be to use the GRU for torque and use the motor and voltage for speed.
think of the GRU as a torque multiplier... What ever motor u pick, the GRU will increase its torque. And compensate for the excessivly high gearing and big wheels.
Then the motor and voltage.... Say if u were to use a 35t motor and it was not fast enough but had the right torque.... U could increase both torque and speed by increasing the voltage...
I think a 27t with the HPI GRU will be right on the money... And u could always try it on a 3s lipo for that high speed u want... But personally I think 2s or a 7cell nimh will be fast enough.
#64
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, I tried to mention the tall gearing. I guess when I said "it's geared to the moon" they figured it was geared super low. Shoot. I like your idea about the HPI GRU, mainly because it's affordable. But it is geared 1:7.4 . I mean, isn't that REALLY REALLY SLOW? Could you give me some more video of it full throttle with the GRU. I know you have a Bonzer Cross Tiger (TL-01 copy). Isn't that the one in the video? I'm thinking 35T and some reducer. Here's the specs on the HPI GRU:
[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="width: 65"][/TD]
[TD]NOTES FROM OUR TECH DEPARTMENT[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="width: 450"]
This is the optional Reduction Gear Box Set for the HPI 1/12 Wheely King 4WD RTR
FEATURES: 1:7.4 ratio Aluminum and steel construction Silver in color
INCLUDES: Reduction Gear Box 1.5mm allen wrench 2.5mm allen wrench 15T pinion gear Two M3x3mm set screw Five M3x6mm cap head screws 3x6x0.5mm washer 2x10mm pin E-clip InstructionsREQUIRES: Installation on the vehicle Side cutters No. 2 screwdriver 2.5mm ball point allen wrench Double sided tape
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="width: 65"][/TD]
[TD]NOTES FROM OUR TECH DEPARTMENT[TABLE]
[TR]
[TD="width: 450"]
This is the optional Reduction Gear Box Set for the HPI 1/12 Wheely King 4WD RTR
FEATURES: 1:7.4 ratio Aluminum and steel construction Silver in color
INCLUDES: Reduction Gear Box 1.5mm allen wrench 2.5mm allen wrench 15T pinion gear Two M3x3mm set screw Five M3x6mm cap head screws 3x6x0.5mm washer 2x10mm pin E-clip InstructionsREQUIRES: Installation on the vehicle Side cutters No. 2 screwdriver 2.5mm ball point allen wrench Double sided tape
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
#65
If u can wait a few days I can chuck in a 27t Johnson silver can and get a video...
But for now I've got this old video showing off the brake drag on a ezrun 35a ESC. But just ne'er the end I go full throttle so it might give u an idea of wheel speed..
http://youtu.be/jI6veCm8Qhg
But for now I've got this old video showing off the brake drag on a ezrun 35a ESC. But just ne'er the end I go full throttle so it might give u an idea of wheel speed..
http://youtu.be/jI6veCm8Qhg
#66
Here is the chassis just for reference...well what's left of it
There are a couple of goodies that might be worth looking into down the track.
HBX one piece suspension arms.... They are lighter and are made form a similar plastic to what RPM use
and the HBX alloy extended shock towers... With them u can fit longer, softer shock and springs. For increased suspension travel and increased traction at low speeds
have u thought about making some snow chains aswell?
There are a couple of goodies that might be worth looking into down the track.
HBX one piece suspension arms.... They are lighter and are made form a similar plastic to what RPM use
and the HBX alloy extended shock towers... With them u can fit longer, softer shock and springs. For increased suspension travel and increased traction at low speeds
have u thought about making some snow chains aswell?
Last edited by phmaximus; 11-27-2013 at 04:19 AM.
#67
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Made them!
I locked the suspension in front and rear to hold the plow. I locked the rear because when I hit the throttle, the back end would go down, and the front up, raising the plow and missing snow. It weighs 7lbs all together. The drivetrain is free and nicely greased, really easy to turn through. Nice video! None of those pics have the plow on, except the last one on the scale. The pics of the truck on the tile, were from me about to take the truck out, and I was worried about snow sticking to the plow, so I put the plow out in the cold for an hour kinda like what you do with skis. Then I hooked it up out there and ran it. The cold idea worked pretty good, and the snow didn't stick too much... Nice truck too. Also, the plow weighs 21oz and is 14" wide. The frame of the plow is aluminum and the plow blade itself is stainless steel. I probably should have made it out of all aluminum, but I liked the shine, and also what some else said earlier, that extra weight helps with ramming snow pile. What do you think phmaximus?
I locked the suspension in front and rear to hold the plow. I locked the rear because when I hit the throttle, the back end would go down, and the front up, raising the plow and missing snow. It weighs 7lbs all together. The drivetrain is free and nicely greased, really easy to turn through. Nice video! None of those pics have the plow on, except the last one on the scale. The pics of the truck on the tile, were from me about to take the truck out, and I was worried about snow sticking to the plow, so I put the plow out in the cold for an hour kinda like what you do with skis. Then I hooked it up out there and ran it. The cold idea worked pretty good, and the snow didn't stick too much... Nice truck too. Also, the plow weighs 21oz and is 14" wide. The frame of the plow is aluminum and the plow blade itself is stainless steel. I probably should have made it out of all aluminum, but I liked the shine, and also what some else said earlier, that extra weight helps with ramming snow pile. What do you think phmaximus?
#70
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#71
I guess you have 3 options:
A: try a 80 or 100 turn brushed and hope it has the torque needed
B: wheely king reduction box (I did note that most utube vids of crawler converted tl01s had this)
C: low kv brushless
A is cheap and wont require any modding
B is a bit more expensive (gear box plus new 55t motor) but is pretty much a sure bet
C is about the same cost as B, but getting the right KV motor will be guess work. if you guess wrong, that means more money.
So its a toss up between A and B in my mind. Id probly try a 100t brushed. But that's just because Im cheap
A: try a 80 or 100 turn brushed and hope it has the torque needed
B: wheely king reduction box (I did note that most utube vids of crawler converted tl01s had this)
C: low kv brushless
A is cheap and wont require any modding
B is a bit more expensive (gear box plus new 55t motor) but is pretty much a sure bet
C is about the same cost as B, but getting the right KV motor will be guess work. if you guess wrong, that means more money.
So its a toss up between A and B in my mind. Id probly try a 100t brushed. But that's just because Im cheap
#72
Yeah I'd be worried about using a 80t motor.... I can honestly say from experience a rusty 20yo Johnson 27t motor has more torque than a correctly run in 80t RC4WD motor..... With the ones I've tried I had to use 3s just to get the torque
well I'm thinking we should do the maths for the HPI GRU and the tl01's FDR
well I'm thinking we should do the maths for the HPI GRU and the tl01's FDR
#73
Nam that looks killer.... Love the chains.... And the plow...
Only thing, I think locking the suspension might give u some traction issues on anything less than level.
but then again the stock friction shocks are not really suited... Either
Only thing, I think locking the suspension might give u some traction issues on anything less than level.
but then again the stock friction shocks are not really suited... Either
#74
Actually.... I've been thinking about this a lot and what I would do..... Then I remembered what I once wanted to do...
ok we know there are some massive issues with gearing and the current MT wheels....
next problem u might have when u get some power on board, is the main shaft gears and/or the spur gear prematurely failing.
Honestly.... I think ur best option considering all of them.... is converting it into a wild dagger/dual hunter....
Ur current suspension, diffs, axles, bumpers, body and all that crap will fit straight onto a dual hunter chassis, all u would need is the chassis, 2x gearbox housing and 2x gear sets.... This will give u a more suitable gear ratio and twin motors!!!! Twice the power.
There is a $15 Dual motor ESC I can link to u and with stock 27t motors it will have the speed u want and the torque very much needed.... Oh and it won't change the look... If anything the bonzer is a clone of it but with a cheaper tl01 chassis (same body and wheels)
dead set, they pull wheelies on carpet... Something a bonzer could only dream off
ok we know there are some massive issues with gearing and the current MT wheels....
next problem u might have when u get some power on board, is the main shaft gears and/or the spur gear prematurely failing.
Honestly.... I think ur best option considering all of them.... is converting it into a wild dagger/dual hunter....
Ur current suspension, diffs, axles, bumpers, body and all that crap will fit straight onto a dual hunter chassis, all u would need is the chassis, 2x gearbox housing and 2x gear sets.... This will give u a more suitable gear ratio and twin motors!!!! Twice the power.
There is a $15 Dual motor ESC I can link to u and with stock 27t motors it will have the speed u want and the torque very much needed.... Oh and it won't change the look... If anything the bonzer is a clone of it but with a cheaper tl01 chassis (same body and wheels)
dead set, they pull wheelies on carpet... Something a bonzer could only dream off
#75
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Grand Haven, MI
Posts: 2,984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I have been searching around on the dual hunter and the wild dagger. I can't find a listing for a chassis in the US (I don't order from foreign countries.) for under $150 bid.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spiderman-Mo...item2a348146ce I realize that it's probably because of the cool body, but other than that, I'm lost. I agree with you phmaximus on the 80T having less torque than the 27T. I think if I go higher in turns, I'm going to gain low speed drivability, but loss torque. (I know many differ) So I want to get an RC4WD compact reduction unit, so that I don't have to mod the chassis. I don't know which ratio to get though, and what motor to use. I want about the same speed as the 55T, maybe slightly slower, but really increase the torque. I had to get in a rocking motion with the 55T to get it rolling. I wasn't expecting that. I want something, that instead of having to rock it to get it moving, to start moving wheels and losing traction before the motor stopping. Know what I mean? Something that actually has torque. So what motor and gear reduction ratio would give me slightly slower speed, and WAY more ACTUAL torque? Here's a link to the RC4WD gear reduction units that are available. I'm not sure which to go with... http://store.rc4wd.com/search.asp?ke...x=0&search.y=0 It would be the first three listings. What would work good with what motor?
Also, I asked earlier, what brushless motor were you using in those YouTube videos above, phmaximus? Like what brand, turn, price, etc.? That looked like it had plenty of torque/speed for what I need.
Also, I asked earlier, what brushless motor were you using in those YouTube videos above, phmaximus? Like what brand, turn, price, etc.? That looked like it had plenty of torque/speed for what I need.
Last edited by DieHarder; 11-28-2013 at 07:41 AM.