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  1. #1

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    Hobby Grade RC Car Kit

    Hello All,

    I am looking for suggestions what will be a good quality rc electric on road car kit. My budget is around 250.00 for just the car kit? I am looking for something like base model but can be upgraded.

    Thanks,

    Alex

  2. #2
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    Do you want belt driven 4wd or shaft driven? The difference is belt is better if you run mainly on tracks and shaft is better if you run on the street, due to the vulnerability of belt systems to debris. Belt is better, and the better cars are belt driven, but you will need to be careful where you run. This (clicky) is a very good and economical option for a shaft drive touring car. It seems cheap, but bear in mind it needs a body, wheels, tires and anti roll bars, plus electrics of course. It can be upgraded to be a competitive club level racer, but if you get there, you'll probably want a belt driven car.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
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  3. #3

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    I really don't have any preference belt or shaft. I am just going to have some fun in parking lot with my son. The one you showed me is it pre built or does it need to be assembled?

  4. #4
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, it's pre-built, I also prefer kits but the hobby is turning that way lately, only dedicated competition stuff is still sold in kit form. Assembling the electrics and other finishing touches is not an insignificant task, and in fact, it is probably worth at least disassembling the differentials and making sure they were well built and greased. Sounds like shaft drive is what you need, and there are very few to recommend beyond this one without spending double and more.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
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  5. #5

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    That car looks good. What would your recommendations on motor, servo, radio, esc, radio, battery, and charger. I really just want to start off haveing fun in parking lots. So I really don't need equipment that is over the top at this point. My only request is something that would be fast and a battery that would give me longer run times. And also what kind of speeds can I expect from electric car?

    Thank for all your input,

    Alex

  6. #6
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    Radio: FS GT3B - hobbypartz.com
    Battery: Gens Ace 2S 4500mAh 25C - hobbypartz.com
    Servo: Hitec 625MG - towerhobbies.com
    Motor and ESC: Hobbywing XERUN X8B combo X4A or X3A http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-combo-x8b-blue.html
    Charger: Thunder AC6 - hobbypartz.com

    This is all cheap but decent stuff and will make the car do around 40mph on normal gearing, you'll be pleased with the performance I think. FRom then on, you can change gearing to get more or less final speed. The X3A combo will probably be able to take gearing for around 55mph. If you want to go faster than that, you will want higher voltage batteries (3S).
    Last edited by Foxy; 12-10-2013 at 03:21 AM.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
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  7. #7
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    id say the same as foxy....except replace the FS GT3b, with the FS GT3s. Better screen, better control buttons and a lipo battery pack. Im liking mine a lot.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  8. #8

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    Thanks Foxy! I could not find the battery on hobbypartz.com. Would you have a link to the actual battery? Also, a question on the esc and motor combo, what do you mean X4A or X3A? I am about to buy from link you sent $130.75 USD but that one says combo X8B. I just want to make sure I get the one you recommended.

    Thanks,

    Alex

  9. #9

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    Foxy is this the one you are talking about? http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-6-5t-3...-120a-lcd.html

  10. #10
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    Hi Alex,

    That one would be good as well, but the other one was cheaper. If you hit the link I posted earlier, you can see on the page a table of different models for the X8B, the difference in the models, is that the motors decrease in KV on each line of the table. The X3A and X4A models described in the table are good for what you want to do.

    As for the battery, I can't find the one I used to recommend either. Try this one.. http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-30c-40...-hardcase.html

    Bear in mind you will need to change the plug on potentially the battery and/or ESC to make them compatible. Have you ever soldered anything before? Do you have a friend who is electrically capable or a hobby shop nearby? Soldering is something we all need to do or have done at some point, you would do well to learn or find another who can help. I suggest using either Deans or Traxxas plugs.

    As for the radio nitrosports mentioned, the GT3S - he's probably more up to date on that than me, I suggest you take his advice, however, the GT3B is a perfectly good radio for what you want.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
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  11. #11

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    I can solder. So I would cut the ends off the battery and esc and solder new ends on them. Also, as far as the motor/esc which one would be faster the cheaper one or the more expensive one. If there is no big difference I'll get the cheaper one. The money saved I can buy an extra battery. And I never seen this before Multifunction LCD Program Box can you explain what I do with that...LOL I only RC cars I ever ran back in the day were nitro RS4's.

    Thanks,

    Alex

  12. #12
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    Indeed, you cut the existing plugs off and simply solder your choice in place with female on the battery and male on the ESC. Pick a high current connector that you like. I guess you have an advantage not already being invested in one connector, I have to say through laziness, I can't be arsed to reissue my fleet (currently Deans) and all my batts with another plug, so I continue using Deans, which actually aren't sufficiently rated for some of the more heavy duty stuff I do, they are however, still the most commonly used esc/battery connector in RC. If in doubt, just go Deans, they are more than adequate for what you want to do.

    More kv means a higher top speed at the expense of a little torque, more current drain from the battery, resulting in less runtime and more heat. The thing to do is strike a balance between kv, the weight of the car and the gearing. On road cars are light by nature and have small diameter wheels, so are not too demanding on their motors, therefore, we can afford to use a higher kv motor before we start generating excessive heat. Worth mentioning I suppose that kv is a direct relation to the number of unloaded rpms the motor should turn, per volt of juice supplied. So, for your kind of car, for general running around, my experience tells me to recommend something around 6000kv for a good mix of speed and gearing choice. You will then play with gearing according to your needs, while keeping an eye on the temperature of the electrics after making changes. If the motor is getting too hot, you lose teeth off the pinion gear to reduce top speed and initial startup load. If you are seeing low temps from the motor during running and want to have a higher top speed, you can gear up appropriately, making sure not to start running too hot. A brushless motor should not get over 190*F according to my reading (and this is what I stick to) as the resin that holds the whole deal together internally starts to disintegrate after that.

    Which speed control...I think they're the exact same thing, being marketed slightly differently, one has an LCD programming card, the other has a standard led/digit interface. Of course the LCD is nice, but not at all needed (as far as I know, it does not give access to extra features, though it is possible that it could). It's up to you. In any case, you are looking for a motor and esc combo around the 6000kv mark, the amp rating on the esc, the higher the better, but don't let that worry you as long as it's over, say 40A, as long as you stick to 2S batteries. Programming devices are WELL worth having, they allow you to change features of the ESC, such as braking strength for example, or put it in competition mode for racing (no reverse ), etc.

    Hope all that makes sense, typed it a bt quick lol.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
    We rock the joint at a cool, steady pace.
    Foxy
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  13. #13

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    Thank you Foxy for all your help! You are a major asset to this forum!

  14. #14

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    nitrosportsandrunner thanks for your advice as well. I can't find that controller do you have the link?

  15. #15
    RCGriggs's Avatar
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    just to stick my nose in, the Tamiya TT01 is one of the most customizable entry level cars, I used to race one around my local club... great little car and it wasn't even brushless! Check it out!
    Ride Or Die, Remember?
    R.I.P Paul Walker - 2013

  16. #16
    RCGriggs's Avatar
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    http://www.helipal.com/battery-conve...to-t-male.html also I would stock up on these, Tamiya battery connecters are very common and if you buy new batteries and have no time to solder, these can be very helpful!
    Ride Or Die, Remember?
    R.I.P Paul Walker - 2013

  17. #17
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    Tamiya connectors will melt with brushless motors. Better to fit a proper high current connector.

    Thanks Alex, glad i could help.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
    We rock the joint at a cool, steady pace.
    Foxy
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  18. #18
    RCGriggs's Avatar
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    haha, I know someone who had mamba motor and wandered why his chassis smelt like fire! Now I know the reason! is soldering that hard? I get someone else to do it :L
    Ride Or Die, Remember?
    R.I.P Paul Walker - 2013

  19. #19
    Community Moderators Foxy's Avatar
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    I love soldering, its not hard but you can be good or bad at it. Have a look at some youtube vids, buy a decent quality (30watt+) iron with an appropriate size tip for intended purpose and some decent solder and you're off, try it.
    Down with the crew known to pump up the bass...
    We rock the joint at a cool, steady pace.
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