adrhadthakhu

I just hope it's going to be reliable..... Only time will tell.....

RC-Junky

Went to drift night for the first time and one of the drivers used the GT3c. He loved it and has had no issues with it, range seemed good as he was able to stand and drive anywhere.. Now I'm looking into one as the price is sweet and it seems to do everything the big names do..

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Reliability is not an issue, they seem to work just fine, and keep on doing so.
The one thing the GT3C doesn't have that the more expensive ones do, is Sub-Trim. Wish it had that. But having End Points is WAY better than just having the old D/R knob.

phmaximus

But do u need a sub trim?? I've found the trim buttons have enough increments not to need it and in stock form it does not support channel mixing or am I missing something?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

From what I've read, Sub-Trim is even more important than Trim. Trim takes away from one side and gives to the other. Sub-Trim moves the whole range of travel. That doesn't explain it very well.... Not having had a radio with sub-trim, my only understanding is from what I've read.

phmaximus

This thing is awesome with the firmware update.... I'm amazed

For anyone unfamiliar with this controllers buttons, it has 2x left/right thump operated switches and 1x push button
for the switched there is a long press and short press feature.



on a 1/7 crawler I've made its running 4ws and 4wd with a motor per axle. It's also running dual ESC one for each motor.

so what I've done is...
The D/R switch
short press: cycles the power balance in 10% increments ranging from -100 to +100 (0 is equal power front and rear)
this is useful for climbing, say on a steep incline and the front wheels start to slip and loose traction I can back off the power for the front making climbing a lot more stable.

long press: left' full power to rear 0 to front. Right' full power to the front 0 to rear
This is useful for tight turns, because my ESC have a drag brake, so I can give the rear ESC 0 power and full brake while the front has full power. This lets u do one of those low speed handbrake turns u see front wheel drive cars do making for a very tight turning circle.

Next I've set up the CH3 TRIM switch,
short press' it cycles the front and rear steering mix in 10% increments! this is useful if u want 4ws on and want to increase the amount the front/rear servo moves compared to the other one.

Long press' it cycles from 3 modes. rear only - 4ws - front only steering...

next I've set up the 3ch button to turn on/off crab walk steering....


Its so cool, I've got full control over my truck now, and no more y adapters and fancy switches... I can't think on another controller that would have these awesome features

phmaximus

I don't see it been a big issue, but I just read with the hack u can....

****************************
* *
* Flysky GT3B/C-PSX manual *
* *
****************************

This is a preliminary manual for alternative firmware for FlySky FS-GT3B/C radio
and clones. This manual is written as differences to original firmware.


This firmware is completely written from scratch and is not compatible with the
original Flysky firmware. It is distributed with NO-WARRANTY.
All of the model setups saved by original firmware will be erased!!!
You can backup your original firmware and config, use tabs "PROGRAM MEMORY" and
"DATA MEMORY" in STVP to read it from radio a save it to disk.


Flashing firmware
=================
- uset STVP (ST Visual Programmer)
- select "PROGRAM MEMORY" tab
- load firmware "gt3b-VERSION.s19"
- program it with "Program -> Address Range..."
- set "Start @" to "8000"
- set "End @" to "E70F" (it is possible to find place where zeroes
will start and use last non-zero address)
- press "OK"
- if "Program -> Current tab" will be used, all models stored at FLASH
will be erased


Global characteristics:
=======================
- 63 model memories, first 8 in EEPROM, rest in FLASH
> numbers 10-19 will show with Right-Arrow
> numbers 20-29 will show with Left-Arrow
> numbers 30-39 will show with Left+Right-Arrows
> numbers 40-79 will show like 0-39 with additional Percent symbol
- added Subtrims
- added SaveAs to save model config to another memory location
- added Global Setup menu to change function features, including backlight time,
battery low voltage, etc.
- dead zone for steering and throttle
- added key mapping specific for each model memory
- calibrate menu will be automatically invoked after first power-on with
this firmware, so 6 menu items will start to blink
- when radio is powered on with steering/throttle not in dead center,
it beeps 3 times if poweron not-centered warning is allowed
- added inactivity alarm
- added settable servo speed
- added 4WS, DIG, MultiPosition functions
- added timers (up, down, lap, lap count)


Buttons:
========
- it is now possible to differentiate between long press (>1 second) to
normal button press (short) and it will be recognized like "ENTER-long"
- Trims, DualRate and other popup informations
> now shows changed value only temporaly (5 seconds or till another
key press), values are saved to EEPROm automatically when it disappears
> when autorepeat disabled on trims (default), reset trim to 0
by pressing both trim keys together for long
(eg. TRIM_LEFT-long + TRIM_RIGHT-long and similar for channel 2 trim)
> while value is showed, it is possible to change it with rotate
encoder also
> when value set to reset_value (usualy 0), longer beep sounds to
attention to it and short pause is intruduced to ignore keys


Main screens:
=============
- changeable by rotate encoder:
model name
battery voltage
timer1 - ENTER and ENTER-long operates this timer, not standard menu
timer2 - ENTER and ENTER-long operates this timer, not standard menu


Standard menu:
==============
- swapped behaviour of ENTER and END when editing items, ENTER now select
next value and END (+ ENTER-long) will end editing items
- ENTER-long on ABS will leave menu also (as BACK)
- Trims are now only for steering and throttle
> trim move center position without moving endpoint positions
- Expo
> value for channel 2 is splitted to forward and back and is indicated
by arrows
> positive values are those You want to use like at Spektrum radios
- DualRate
> value for channel 2 is splitted to forward and back and is indicated
by arrows
- SaveAs
> choose menu MODEL and press ENTER-long
> menu MODEL will blink
> choose memory position where to save model config
> press ENTER/BACK to save it
- Model number of channels and Model reset
> choose menu NAME and press ENTER-long
> menu NAME will blink
> choose "C" for number of model channels or "r" for model reset
- reset will show NO/YES
- Subtrims
> subtrim moves center position together with endpoint positions
> choose menu TRIM and press ENTER-long
> menu TRIM will blink
> set subtrims for each channel
- channel speed
> choose menu D/R and press ENTER-long
> menu D/R will blink
> select channel
> for channels 1 and 2 (steering and throttle)
- turn wheel left to show left arrow
- this represents Turn speed or throttle speed
- turn wheel right to show right arrow
- this represents Return speed or
"throttle speed only for forward" (OFF/ON)
> select required speed 1...100%
- 100% means no delay
- 1% means above 4s delay end to end
- directly setting channel value of channels 3..8
> values for 4WS and DIG channels cannot be changed
> this can be used instead of mapping some key to appropriate function
> choose menu EXPO and press ENTER-long
> menu EXPO will blink
> select channel and press ENTER
> select value in range -100..100 and press enter
- mixes 4WS, DIG, throttle brake cut-off (for boats with forward-only
throttle), Multi-Position (to set arbitrary up to 8 positions),
brake channel (to send brake side of throttle to extra channel)
> choose menu EPOINT and press ENTER-long
> menu EPOINT will blink
> select one of mixes 4WS (4), DIG (d), brake cut-off (b),
multi-position (P), brake channel (8)
for mixes 4WS, DIG:
> press ENTER and choose channel for this mix or OFF
- for dual-ESC steering (boat, tank, ...) select DIG channel 1 and
with steering D/R reduce required ESC travel (at 100% it will go to
contra to allow steering at place)
> press ENTER and set mix in range -100...0...100 %
0% is default and means both channels have same max steering/throttle
100% means 100% reduce on rear steering/throttle (eg. no steering)
-100% means 100% reduce on front steering/throttle (eg. no steering)
> for 4WS press ENTER and select crab (CR1) or no-crab (CR0)
for Multi-Position:
> there are 4 Multi-Positions identified by numbers 1..4, they have
8/6/4/4 positions
> press ENTER and choose channel for this function or OFF
- channel can be "D" also, which means map to DIG function
> press ENTER and set channel value for first position
> press ENTER and set channel value for second position or END
> ... up to eight position
for brake cut-off:
> press ENTER and choose OFF or CUT
for brake channel:
> press ENTER and choose channel fro brake or OFF
- Key mapping specific for each model:
> choose menu REV and press ENTER-long
> menu REV will blink
> choose trims (id: 1 2 3 d) or other keys (CH3: C, Back: b, End: E) or
if trim is OFF, then also trim keys (id 1 2 3 d with left/right arrow)
> press ENTER and modify first setting
> press ENTER and modify next setting
> ....
-----
steps of settings of trims (1 2 3 and D/R):
- sequence:
function -> buttons -> step -> reverse -> opposite_reset -> previous_val -> rotate
- function: selected function listed at the end of manual
- B buttons:
MO - momentary, hold left/right trim key to get end values,
when nothing pressed, servo is at center
NL - no long keys, long press is the same as short press
AR - autorepeat is on
RS - long press of one of trim keys will reset to
centre/reset value
EN - long press of trim key will set to coresponding end value
- step: select trim step for one trim key press (1, 2, ... 100, 200),
not available when buttons MO or fuction is list of items (multi-position)
is identified by symbol "V"
- RE reverse:
0 - no change
1 - swap left/right trim keys
- OR opposite_reset: not available when buttons MO
0 - no change
1 - when trim key is pressed and value is at opposite
side of center/reset, set value to centre/reset,
- PV previous_val: available only when buttons MO or fuction is list of
items (multi-position)
0 - no change
1 - instead of setting value to centre/reset when key is released,
it is set to previous value, which was active before key press
- RO rotate: available only if fuction is list of items (multi-position)
0 - no rotate
1 - rotate from max item to first item and back
-----
steps of setting of keys (C b E 1< 1> 2< 2> 3< 3> d< d>):
- sequence:
function -> momentary -> reverse -> prev_val -> function_long -> reverse_long -> prev_val_long
- function: selected function listed at the end of manual
- MO momentary: only available for 2-state functions (channel, ...)
0 - switch, key press will switch something (channel value, ...)
1 - momentary, value change will be active only while key is pressed
- RE reverse: only available for 2-state functions
0 - normal, no-press or default value is left endpoint
1 - reverse, no-press or default value is right endpoint
- PV prev_val: only available for 2-state functions
0 - key release or OFF state sets value to left endpoint (noREV)
1 - key release or OFF state sets value to value active before
key press or ON state
- function_long: function applied when long press of key happens,
choose from the same list as function,
identified by "V" symbol
- reverse_long: same as "reverse" + "V" symbol
- prev_val_long: same as "prev_val" + "V" symbol
-----
steps of settings of ch3 potentiometer (if enabled at global config):
- sequence:
function -> reverse
- function: selected function listed at the end of manual
- RE reverse:
0 - no change
1 - swap left/right sides


Operating timers:
=================
- select timer1 or timer2 main screen with rotate encoder
- timer1 is identified by left arrow, timer2 by right arrow
- lap count is written to 3char LCD place
- timer value is writen to 7seg + 3char LCD place in format:
0000 - MMSS minutes, seconds
0000 % - SSHH seconds, hundredths (0.01 seconds)
- press ENTER to set timer params, use it as usual menu:
H set throttle trigger start OFF/ON
timer will start after
throttle forward applied
A set alarm 0..255
in laps for lap counter
in minutes for others
P set timer type:
OFF timer is off
UP up timer
TxS start/pause timer
TxR stop + reset timer
DWN down timer
TxS start/pause timer
TxR stop + reset timer and save rest time
to lap times
when alarmed at time 0, starts counting
up with "V" symbol blinking
LAP lap timer - 100 lap times are saved
TxS record lap time, show it for 3s blinking
and during this time presses are ignored
to eliminate double click
when timer not running, start timer
when timer alarmed, stop timer and save
lap time
TxR stop timer
LPC lap counter - till 255 laps
TxS increment lap counter, minimum 3 seconds
between presses are required to eliminate
double click
TxR zero lap counter
- pres ENTER-long to show saved lap times (only for LAP and DWN timers):
> It is possible to see lap number (indicated by 'L' at 7seg number)
or time showed as other timer values. Press ENTER to switch between
lap number and time value
> use rotate encoder to switch between lap numbers or lap times
> there are special lap number identificators also at 3char display:
- Txx - total time, 'xx' is number of laps
- Axx - average time, 'xx' is number of laps
- RES - pres ENTER and lap times will be erased, it is also
displayed when showing lap time


Calibrate menu:
===============
- enter it by wheel right-turn and ENTER-long
- 6 menu items starts to blink (+ 2 arrows if CH3 is potentiometer)
- use END or ROTATE to change channels
- there is also channel 3 representing CH3 button (for those who will do
some 3-position switch/potentiometer modification)
> There is 1K resistor connected between CH3 button and +5V, so
simply connecting linear potentiometer instead of CH3 button
will not work. Usefull results can be done with logarithmic
potentiometer 10K which has 1K at half of turn. Or eliminate
internal resistor to +5V, connect potentiometer between +5V
and GND and potentiometer output instead of CH3 button.
- there is also channal 4 representing battery voltage
- calibrate as usual (for channel 1/2 left+mid+right and ENTER)
> calibrated value will disappear from menu
> it is not needed to calibrate all values
- calibrate CH3 potentiometer (if selected at global config)
> only left + right positions
- calibrate battery (it will not be probably needed to use this)
> select channel 4
> press ENTER
> set your current battery voltage (measure it by voltmeter)
> press ENTER to save it or END to no-save
- press BACK-long or ENTER-long to end calibrate menu and save values

Key-test menu:
==============
- enter it by wheel left-turn and ENTER-long
- if ENTER-long keep pressed, all segments on display will stay on till
ENTER is released
- now check keys by pressing them short or long
- if keys long pressed, an "L" symbol will appear left to displayed key symbols
- press BACK-long or ENTER-long to end key-test menu


Global setup menu:
==================
- enter it by ENTER-long
- now menu items MODEL and NAME will start blinking
- select requested item by ROTATE and press ENTER
- use ROTATE to change value and press ENTER to end value changing
- press BACK or END or ENTER-long to end global setup menu,
values will be saved to EEPROM
- selected menu items are indicated by following symbols:
F firmware version (this of course cannot be changed :-)
L backlight time 5s,10s...10m...MAX
I inactivity alarm OFF,1m...10m
LOW POWER! battery low voltage 2.0...10.5V
C default number of channels 2..8
E maximum allowed endpoint value 100...150%
DANGER - values greater than 120% can damage
your servo or will not be possible
to transmit to receiver because of
2.4GHz HF module limitation
This danger zone will be indicated with a flashing
'%' symbol for values greater than 120%
A analog settings, dead zones, ADC samples used
steering dead zone S00..S50
throttle dead zone T00..T50
number of ADC values A_4/A_1
b beeps
key beep K_N/K_Y
value at center/reset beep V_N/V_Y
poweron beep P_N/P_Y
poweron not-centered warn C_N/C_Y
d long press key delay 100...1000 miliseconds
H setting of hardware features
reverse rotate encoder E_N/E_R (Normal/Reverse) - for GT3C
ch3 is potentiometer P3N/P3Y (No/Yes)
select ppm sync/frame PTS/PTF (constant SYNC/frame length)
select ppm length Lxx - 3-18ms for constant SYNC length
9-24ms for constant frame length
r global or all models reset
all configs (global+model) G_N/G_Y (No/Yes)
all models M_N/M_Y (No/Yes
o lock keys till ENTER-long No/Yes


Return to original (and modified) firmware:
===========================================
- flash original firmware
- delete whole EEPROM (tab DATA MEMORY in STVP and write those empty zeroes)
or return back your saved config (also tab DATA MEMORY in STVP, read
your saved config from disk and write it to radio)
- calibrate steering and throttle (not needed when You returned back saved
config)


Functions assignable to trims:
==============================
OFF - nothing, it is possible to assign each button individualy
as key
TR1, TR2 - trim of channel 1/2
DRS, DRF, DRB - dualrate of steering/forward/back
EXS, EXF, EXB - expo of steering/forward/back
CHn - change channel "n" value in range -100...100
STn - subtrim of channel "n"
SST - steering speed turn 1...100%
SSR - steering speed return 1...100%
CSn - channel speed for channel "n" 1...100%
4WS - 4 wheel steering mix -100...100%
DIG - DIG throttle mix -100...100%
MP1 - Multi-Position 1, switches position up/down
MP2 - Multi-Position 2, switches position up/down
MP3 - Multi-Position 3, switches position up/down
MP4 - Multi-Position 4, switches position up/down


Functions assignable to keys:
=============================
OFF - nothing
CHn - switch channel "n" value from one end value to opposite end
value. There is special handling for CH3 button. When using
3-position switch instead of CH3 button and momentary is
selected for this button, then centre 3-pos value will also
be detected and set to servo (use 1K resistor to GND to get
middle state)
CnR - reset value of channel "n" to centre
4WS - switch crab (CRB) no-crab (NOC) for 4 wheel steering
DIG - switch DIG mix between -100 and 100 (more useable when using
return to previous val key setting)
DGR - reset DIG mix to centre
MP1 - Multi-Position 1, switches position up (at END back to 1.)
MR1 - Multi-Position 1 Reset, switches position to first one
MP2 - Multi-Position 2, switches position up (at END back to 1.)
MR2 - Multi-Position 2 Reset, switches position to first one
MP3 - Multi-Position 3, switches position up (at END back to 1.)
MR3 - Multi-Position 3 Reset, switches position to first one
MP4 - Multi-Position 4, switches position up (at END back to 1.)
MR4 - Multi-Position 4 Reset, switches position to first one
T1S - start/pause timer1
T1R - stop + reset timer1
T2S - start/pause timer2
T2R - stop + reset timer2
BRK - switch on full brake, this overrides throttle position
BLS - battery low shutup, stop beeping, predefined to END-long

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

So the hack (or is it officially a firmware update?) adds sub-trim. That's good. But the things that you can change (Model Name, End Points, etc) are part of the display screen, like a label, not an LCD display. So how do you know when you are adjusting Sub-Trim? Know what I mean? That is, there is no Sub Trim label like there is for Model Name, Trim, End Points. So how is that dealt with?

phmaximus

Not that u need sub trim on a rc car anyway....that's more for planes.

subtrim is the same as trim but moves the endpoints.... If u were to use this setting on a rc car it will effect the servo endpoints potentially damaging the servo or drive shafts.... I would never recommend using it for that exact reason if u need to adjust the trim, use the trim adjustments otherwise u are have to re-set the endpoints

is it a hack?? Well define hack? I did have to open up the controller and solder a connection onto the circuit board. Then I've used aftermarket hardware to link the controller to my PC then I've updated the firmware with a aftermarket hacked firmware.

and in regards to the menu..... When adjusting the trim the top label has a black box around it... When adjusting sub trim the box flashes.
the channel, %, and direction are displayed on the screen

each menu has a second menu, when on the second menu the label flashes rather than just been on

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

I get what you're saying and know yo understand subtrim function. I disagree though and think when used right subtrim is invaluable. I think what you've said might confuse some people who don't truly understand subtrim though so I'm going to explain it. Subtrim changes the servo's centering point but it does not change the endpoints in relation to the centering point. Lets say center is 12 oclock and the endpoints allow the servo to point to 10 oclock and 2 oclock which means the endpoints allow 2 hours of movement. Now if you change the subtrim so the new center is 12:30 the endpoints haven't changed and still allow 2 hours of movement in each direction.. But using subtrim to move the center 1/2 hour means the servo horn position at maximum travel will be different by 1/2 hour, 2:30 and 10:30 respectively.

If that's a problem and you need to reset your endpoints its probably because you setup the radio and servo in the wrong order. In my experience its best to first center the bellcranks if equipped and align the servo horm. For radios without subtrim you need to adjust the linkage between the horn and the bellcranks to get the servo and bellcrank centered without using regular trim that alters overall travel. With subtrim you adjust the servo's center until the bellcrank is centered without touching the linkage and maintaining maximum travel in both directions. Once that's done you make sure your alignment is set and then you adjust the endpoints. If you follow this order when first setting up a vehicle you can swap in a new servo, adjust the subtrim a little to get it centered and go without making any other adjustments to the radio or linkage. Of course its always a good idea to make sure the endpoints are still good when putting in a new servo. But when I setup my vehicles with this method, installing new servos usually require only a few clicks of endpoint adjustment if any and that's just due to varying servo resolution.

Edit: Another point to consider is the linkage between the servo horn and bellcrank. This is usually preset at the factory to align the servo horn with the bellcrank. If you change the length of this linkage too much it alters the horns alignment with the bellcrank which can alter overall steering throw or it's progressiveness. When racing or for models where maximum steering throw is needed/desired this can become an issue. Subtrim allows you to adjust the linkage for perfect horn to bellcrank alignment and then center everything from the radio with no loss of travel in either direction.

phmaximus

i don't know, i still think u don't need it

why? because generally the end points are fixed and limited by mechanical binding

the only way i see it been use full is...
if the steering has a greater range of motion than the servo (very rare, im yet to see a land vehicle like that)

"For radios without subtrim you need to adjust the linkage between the horn and the bellcranks to get the servo and bellcrank centered without using regular trim that alters overall travel"
I disagree on that.
if u change the length of the link it will effect the servo to bellcrank movement ratio. and it will have a higher turn ratio on one side.


the best way to do it is, set links to manufactures recommendations (keeping in mind a lot of RTR cars don't have this adjustment anyway), then centre the servo via the trim, then fit the servo horn so its as close to centre as possible. then set the max servo throw via the end points and re trim the centre point as needed

only difference with setting up a vehicle with subtrim would be....
set links to manufactures recommendations (keeping in mind a lot of RTR cars don't have this adjustment anyway), then centre the servo via the trim, then fit the servo horn so its as close to centre as possible, then fine tune the centre point with the subtrim so the servo horn is centred, then set the max servo throw via the end points and re trim the centre point as needed.

but honestly if no one has messed with the setting on the radio 99% of the time u can skip that step, because u are going to be limiting the servo travel anyway when u set the steering endpoints.
generally ive found the mechanical limit for left is the same as right. if it was a car like i was saying before that if the steering has a greater range of motion than the servo then then its worth doing because u wont need to set the endpoints anyway because i want the maximum travel possible and by setting the sub trim it will in theory steer evenly each way.

on a boat or plan u need to set the sub trim, because generally u don't set endpoints because there is no mechanical limits, U would normally use the Duel rates to limit the servo throw

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Wow, sounds great. Thanks for the explanation. BTW, didn't mean to offend. I guess what I meant when I asked about if it was a hack or an "official" update, was where did the modified or updated firmware come from? Did a hobbyist do the firmware programming and give it to the RC community? Or is the firmware from FS? And I'm also curious about what aftermarket hardware is required to do the mod.

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

You're right about the linkage between the servo horn and the steering, that's why I mentioned the servo horn needing to be aligned as well. Even though you can get away without subtrim I personally think it's a more accurate way of setting up a vehicle.

Revo's will use all the available throw from a servo if you use the short stock Traxxas horns and do all the steering mods. There is another downfall to using regular trim and the effects of the lost travel. Let's say you move the trim 15min to the left, you lose 15min to the right and the radio now has to change the resolution for the right side. Even though you had to limit your endpoints and still get full travel in both directions when turning to the right the wheels move at a different rate when turning the wheel than they do when turning to the left. It may not be that noticeable but that's the science behind using regular trim vs subtrim.

phmaximus

I know from experience with my vehicles... There is no noticeable difference, yes in theory u might loose some steering resolution but in practice u don't. And I guess it's only limited to the revo

i don't see how u are going to loose steering is the servo is centred and the end points are set the same distance apart from the centre point

If ya keen it wouldn't hurt to do some of your own testing. Maybe I'm wrong and there is a difference???

phmaximus

cheerz m8, don't worry no offence here... Oops I hope I haven't done the same??

Here is a pic of the hardware used to connect the controller to the computer, I think it's a generic programmer

http://overkillrc.3dcartstores.com/G...g-Kit_p_9.html

as far as I know. I'm not 100% sure, but the firmware was completely rebuild from ground up by a fellow hobbyist. And the firmware is 100% free

RustyUs

And now after a couple of years of use, my transmitter will not center the throttle. So sad. I thought my ESC was acting up. I have no reverse, just slight braking when I let go of transmitter's trigger; this makes the ESC think you are never putting the trigger to the neutral position. This also means no transmitter/ESC throttle calibration is possible.

I took the FlySky radio apart to clean the trigger pot (potentiometer).


It was another no go.

The once great radio that I praised is now giving me the middle finger. I would like to think the No Neutral issue would be fixed with a replacement pot, but I'm just not sure at the moment if I want to invest time and effort finding one. My luck would be then to find out it's something in the firmware, or something else causing the No Neutral problem.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

My buddy's GT3C quit being able to bind to any receiver this past week. Radio was only a year old. Same failure as his GT3B it replaced. Not exactly what you could call a trend, but I wonder if they have a weak Bind circuit or IC? Whatever it is, it foinks the radio, it's just so much plastic now.

I'll stick with my trusty GT2. Been working flawlessly for five years. I decided to buy a second radio for someone else to use and bought the new GT2B. Unless you need a no frills radio and receiver that's only benefit is that it can run on 4V-8V thus supporting HV servos, I wouldn't recommend it. It is NOT compatible with any of FlySky's other receivers! ***? The new AS-3 receiver can handle HV servos and supposedly has better range, but it can't be bound with any of your other radios? Stupid. Oh it works in my Evader just fine, the radio is 4 AA batteries lighter than the GT2, and it has a stub antenna instead of the fold-able one. But it won't bind with either of my other cars that use the regular receiver.

And I've never been able to get a GT3C to work in either of my regular cars, there is always a range or interference problem that makes it un-usable. And I've tried several, like, FOUR. But my buddy never experienced that issue. Just the Bind function going funky.

Fortunately, RC radios have, like most things digital, gotten less expensive, so most of us can afford to go buy a Spektrum or Futaba system now. Which'll probably be what I'll go to if my GT2 ever gives up.

RustyUs

I gave FlySky a shout out, through email, to see where I could get replacement trigger potentiometer group. I think I already know the price will, more than likely, be more than what I think is reasonable.

@ EXT2Rob: I keep telling myself to bite the bullet and get extra Futaba receivers for my old faithful 3PM. They are $80 each . Even the 4ch FrSky (yes, that's correct spelling) Futaba FASST compatible receivers are $38.

I flipflopped for the past 24 hours on a RadioLink RC3S that others say is many steps ahead of FlySky radios.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Just watched this video, the guy I bought my HoBao Hyper SCs from reviews the RadioLink: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wNhWNE4jupM
Looks pretty darn nice for ~$60. Might have to pick one up. If Bill likes it.....it's good enough for me. 🙌

Futaba receivers are how much??😨 Geez, Spectrums are only $30.

egbasher

In all honesty, my GT3C started acting funky after I dropped it on a concrete floor. Before that it was fine. No range issues. I liked it. But the replacement from Hobby Partz was DOA. Exhibited the same behavior as the one I dropped. Wouldn't bind. It came in a box with no packing material-the radio box was about the same size as the shipping box. Seems like maybe these radios are extremely susceptible to shock damage. Let's hope the next one works. If not, maybe I'll thy the RadioLink.

RustyUs

Well now. If I can't get part directly from FlySky...that sucks. Such as life. Such as the disposable mentality that has come to a lot of people...when it breaks throw it out. The GT3C will fall into the cardboard box for parts.

This looks better and better everyday.