The Evader Coalition thread has become somewhat diluted. (200-some pages, in TWO volumes!) Might be able to sift out the good stuff. I'll try to sum up:
#1 - Bumpers. T-bone or RPM (tho RPM doesn't make an Evader-specific) The aluminum front bulkhead might
be a good idea for a couple reasons: One would think the front chassis brace screws would not strip out their holes in the bulkhead, as the plastic one does. And it would add strength to the front end. However, there's nothing preventing the chassis/bulkhead "hinge"
from breaking on the chassis.
So even an aluminum front bulkhead will not make it entirely bullet-proof in the front end. The rear bulkhead brace for the trans is a pricey piece of bling, in fact, both are at $25 each. With the front being marginally more useful. If you can find one of the graphite rear braces (and one of the graphite chassis) for a good price, that
would be worth it. But they're hard to find. And can be as much as the AL. I got mine for a song.
#2 - Open the trans and the diff, clean everything, and inspect everything. If the diff planetary gears are beginning to look like turbo compressors, not nicely triangular like a pyramid, they should be replaced. I also suggest using TrakPower Waterproof Gear Grease in the diff for superior protection, and in the trans as well. Great stuff. Behind the large bevel gears in the diff are metal pins that hold the drive cups in and drive the bevel gears. Those pins can be replaced with Music Wire (K&S Precision Metals, available at hobby shops) Stock #502 0.047in (1.19mm) and will last WAY longer and may never break. It comes in 30in lengths for less than $3. Makes a lifetime supply. Stock #504 062in (1.57mm) can be used for wheel drive
pins that you will loose before you break them. (I am assuming you HAVE the all metal diff that should have been in the BL Evader) OH! almost forgot. BEFORE YOU DO ALL THAT, clean out that diff thoroughly especially the screw holes. USE Blue (temporary) Thread Lock on ALL those screws. If any of those screws come loose while driving, there goes your diff gears. And may very well be the "noise" coming from the tranny that was described. Inspect tranny gears and replace if they are getting "pointy", not nicely beveled. Check all bearings.
#3 Servo - Uh YEAH! Stock servos pretty much suck, and only last so long. A good all metal gear servo of any kind will go a long way. And yeah, the Evader's steering linkage design and servo layout, while perhaps efficient, SUCKS to work on! So get a good servo you'll never have to mess with again. A $30 Hitec 645MG will work fine. 625MG if ya want a little faster.
Watch out for loose shock caps, and not the top ones. The one the shafts come out of. If they come loose, they can break the threads off the shock and the unit's done. But the stock units are pretty decent if you don't let that happen. Get a set of Bad Horsie Shock Socks to help keep dirt off the shafts.
Get some good tires and wheels. I used RPM Slingshots and Proline Gladiators.