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  1. #1
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    brushless evader tips?

    ive stayed away from the evaders for the most part.
    I had a evader DT that snapped the chassis right by the trans when I put a BL system on it.
    and another evader I had issues with the servo, and the servo mount setup is terrible.


    BUT, I found a RTR brushless evader (stock brushless, waterproof system) for $90 on ebay. Well, couldn't pass that up!

    I do like the metal dogbones (curse you, traxxas slider shafts) and it should be plenty fast.

    but what are the best upgrades for the evader? Not the "looks good" upgrades but the ones that will add durability?

    Is there a way to brace up the part of the chassis that mounts to the trans case?

    It is a bit dirty, and the ad says the trans makes a noise, but there are spare trans parts as well as other spare parts. The BL system alone is worth $40-$50 so I figure I couldn't go wrong.

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    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  2. #2
    cumquat's Avatar
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    well, there is the rear brace http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBDK6&P=7 and front bulkhead http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBVG1&P=7. outside of those and T-bone bumpers http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/D...ST-ST-Pro-c38/ i dont know of any others. might want to check out the evader coalition fir more upgrades and mods The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  3. #3
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    The Evader Coalition thread has become somewhat diluted. (200-some pages, in TWO volumes!) Might be able to sift out the good stuff. I'll try to sum up:

    #1 - Bumpers. T-bone or RPM (tho RPM doesn't make an Evader-specific) The aluminum front bulkhead might be a good idea for a couple reasons: One would think the front chassis brace screws would not strip out their holes in the bulkhead, as the plastic one does. And it would add strength to the front end. However, there's nothing preventing the chassis/bulkhead "hinge" from breaking on the chassis. So even an aluminum front bulkhead will not make it entirely bullet-proof in the front end. The rear bulkhead brace for the trans is a pricey piece of bling, in fact, both are at $25 each. With the front being marginally more useful. If you can find one of the graphite rear braces (and one of the graphite chassis) for a good price, that would be worth it. But they're hard to find. And can be as much as the AL. I got mine for a song.

    #2 - Open the trans and the diff, clean everything, and inspect everything. If the diff planetary gears are beginning to look like turbo compressors, not nicely triangular like a pyramid, they should be replaced. I also suggest using TrakPower Waterproof Gear Grease in the diff for superior protection, and in the trans as well. Great stuff. Behind the large bevel gears in the diff are metal pins that hold the drive cups in and drive the bevel gears. Those pins can be replaced with Music Wire (K&S Precision Metals, available at hobby shops) Stock #502 0.047in (1.19mm) and will last WAY longer and may never break. It comes in 30in lengths for less than $3. Makes a lifetime supply. Stock #504 062in (1.57mm) can be used for wheel drive pins that you will loose before you break them. (I am assuming you HAVE the all metal diff that should have been in the BL Evader) OH! almost forgot. BEFORE YOU DO ALL THAT, clean out that diff thoroughly especially the screw holes. USE Blue (temporary) Thread Lock on ALL those screws. If any of those screws come loose while driving, there goes your diff gears. And may very well be the "noise" coming from the tranny that was described. Inspect tranny gears and replace if they are getting "pointy", not nicely beveled. Check all bearings.

    #3 Servo - Uh YEAH! Stock servos pretty much suck, and only last so long. A good all metal gear servo of any kind will go a long way. And yeah, the Evader's steering linkage design and servo layout, while perhaps efficient, SUCKS to work on! So get a good servo you'll never have to mess with again. A $30 Hitec 645MG will work fine. 625MG if ya want a little faster.

    Watch out for loose shock caps, and not the top ones. The one the shafts come out of. If they come loose, they can break the threads off the shock and the unit's done. But the stock units are pretty decent if you don't let that happen. Get a set of Bad Horsie Shock Socks to help keep dirt off the shafts.

    Get some good tires and wheels. I used RPM Slingshots and Proline Gladiators.
    Just a schmoe....

  4. #4
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    well I got it yesterday and had a motor issue after 2 minutes. started glitching.

    took it apart and looked for damaged. didn't find anything other than a small washer that was stuck to the outside of the motor can. I don't see how that could have caused a problem but it is working now.

    Except....it seems kinda slow. on a 2s I read it should do 40ish. seems more like 30mph to me. And it almost sounds like at WOT the motor is pulsing.
    and since it is a castle system and I don't have a link it will be a pain to go threw the programing and make sure the settings are right.

    I pulled apart the trans. no bad gears (and they are metal) and the diff looked ok as well. Only thing I noticed was that 1 of the small screws that holds the diff case together would not sit flush at 1st. I did not notice if it was that way when I took it apart. I had to mess with it some to get it flush (ish)
    but then, the diff has some side-to-side play in the trans case anyway.

    I will certainly have to do some stuff to the trans mount. I had a evader DT years ago that I put a mild bl system in, and snapped the trans mount on a jump.

    if I decide to keep it for a while, I will have to replace the tires. the stock ones have possibly the worst traction of any RTR ive owned.

    I also don't care for the battery mount. ive seen/read that it was designed to hold hardcased 2s lipo packs. well, not very easy if you ask me. dang tight fit with my standard sized packs, and getting the bar on is a pain. might have to do a Velcro mod or something.

    honestly, not that impressed with the truck. But, for $90 I cant really complain much. Might just keep it as a backup brushless basher.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  5. #5
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    What pinion are you running? The EXT2 came with a 20T pinion, I thought the BL model came with a 24T. So yeah, you should be getting closer to 40mph.
    The battery strap does go in sort of oddly, but once you get used to it, it's a lot easier.
    Just a schmoe....

  6. #6
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    it has a 24tooth.
    I will try and GPS it soon. maybe it is just my eyes.
    I did snag a 3930 DTX motor on ebay for $25. if the current issue is the motor, I will soon have a replacement. if not, ill have a cheap backup motor.

    also, can this system handle 3s? there seem to be a couple different versions of the BL evader. I don't know if the element system is different from the system in mine or not, nor do I know if either system can do 3s.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  7. #7
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    The DTX Element system "by Castle" IS 3S capable. Tho I would gear it down if you did so. A light, 2wd car like this is car-RAZY fast, hard to control, and good only for speed runs pretty much. But then a 3900kv.....might not be too nutz on 3S if geared right. Go down a few teeth on the pinion.
    Just a schmoe....

  8. #8
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
    The DTX Element system "by Castle" IS 3S capable. Tho I would gear it down if you did so. A light, 2wd car like this is car-RAZY fast, hard to control, and good only for speed runs pretty much. But then a 3900kv.....might not be too nutz on 3S if geared right. Go down a few teeth on the pinion.
    OK, I don't have the element system tho. not labeled that anyway. just has a big D and says duratrax on it. it does look basically like a sidewinder tho.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  9. #9
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    put a fresh 2s lipo and a gps on it. 36mph.
    Im going to try my newer gens ace 2s lipo and see if that ups the mph any.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  10. #10
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrosportsandrunner View Post
    OK, I don't have the element system tho. not labeled that anyway. just has a big D and says duratrax on it. it does look basically like a sidewinder tho.
    Does it look like this? > http://www.activepowersports.com/dur...FY6RfgodtokArg
    Just a schmoe....

  11. #11
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
    the case of the ESC looks the same, but it does not say element on the side.
    it looks like the one in this pic below. the site the pic came from just says "waterproof 100amp esc"
    notes below to state "2s lipo compatible". which could been it comes with LVC set on...or it could mean you cant run 3s on it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  12. #12
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrosportsandrunner View Post
    put a fresh 2s lipo and a gps on it. 36mph.
    Im going to try my newer gens ace 2s lipo and see if that ups the mph any.
    That sounds about right for a 3900kv motor with the stock gearing. Should be plenty fast off-road when you get a decent set of tires. I liked running Proline Gladiators on the rear and Dirt Hawg IIs on the front, for a symetrical stance. Or ribbed tires on the front for better steering when racing on dirt.

    I run a 4300kv motor in my Evader. A little can, EZrun, and it'll do 40mph no prob.

    Glad you got 'er running. How does the tranny sound? It should be a fairly quiet car. Compared to my noisier 3-Diff truggy.
    Just a schmoe....

  13. #13
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
    That sounds about right for a 3900kv motor with the stock gearing. Should be plenty fast off-road when you get a decent set of tires. I liked running Proline Gladiators on the rear and Dirt Hawg IIs on the front, for a symetrical stance. Or ribbed tires on the front for better steering when racing on dirt.

    I run a 4300kv motor in my Evader. A little can, EZrun, and it'll do 40mph no prob.



    Glad you got 'er running. How does the tranny sound? It should be a fairly quiet car. Compared to my noisier 3-Diff truggy.
    funny, you would think a full 540 can motor would run as fast, if not faster than the ezrun finned out motors. I like those motors tho.
    I have a DTX 3930 motor coming. the one in the truck is the DTX 3900. I wonder if an extra 250 revs will get it up to 40mph?
    I cant find any hard data, but it seems like duratrax had this ESC and then switched to the one labeled element. I really wonder if there is any difference between the two?

    the tranny noise....doesn't sound to loud. it is no SC10, but it doesn't sound like anything is wrong, and the wheels roll freely.

    tomorrow I will try and run a full, fresh 2s lipo threw it.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  14. #14
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    Does look like an old Sidewinder.
    Just a schmoe....

  15. #15
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
    Does look like an old Sidewinder.
    right, except that it says duratrax on it and is (at least supposed to be) waterproof.

    I noticed earlier tonight, I couldn't find a single brushless evader on ebay....only brushed ones. that seems odd.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  16. #16
    cumquat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrosportsandrunner View Post
    funny, you would think a full 540 can motor would run as fast, if not faster than the ezrun finned out motors. I like those motors tho.
    I have a DTX 3930 motor coming. the one in the truck is the DTX 3900. I wonder if an extra 250 revs will get it up to 40mph?
    I cant find any hard data, but it seems like duratrax had this ESC and then switched to the one labeled element. I really wonder if there is any difference between the two?

    the tranny noise....doesn't sound to loud. it is no SC10, but it doesn't sound like anything is wrong, and the wheels roll freely.

    tomorrow I will try and run a full, fresh 2s lipo threw it.
    not really. kv is kv. however add 5 teeth to the pinion and see which one smokes. i'll bet a ginger beer that it'll be the finned. and the extra kv will bump it up to 37 maybe.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  17. #17
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    I guess that is the advantage of a larger can. More gearing options. I found the EZrun's sweet spot, and am very happy with it. Plenty of torque and speed for a light, 2wd vehicle. I do have to gear it down a tooth on hot days. But overall, I think it's a good match for the 'vader. I HAD a 5700kv Sidewinder in it, for a while before the ESC died. It was crazy fast on 2S. And that motor ran hot as well. I think it was the fact that I'd used NiMh batteries with it at first, and the ripple currents caused by the batteries' lack of power caused damage to the ESC eventually killing it, even after I'd switched to Lipo. And, would you believe, that exact EZrun system is what HoBao specs for it's Hyper TT 4wd Truggy? (Which I also have)

    I think you don't see many BL Evaders on eBay cuz not many people bought them. Hence, its disappearance from the retail market after only a year from its introduction. Too pricey for what you got, you could upgrade a regular Evader more cheaply. The Evader 2.4 is the logical version for a good entry-level pricepoint. At a $100 more for the BL version, the competition has options that are better.
    Just a schmoe....

  18. #18
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    took the evader out to run a pack threw it....did not make it.
    1st, the servo started going. wouldn't turn full to the right...eventually wouldn't turn at all. I had tightened down the servo saver, guess the servo couldn't handle it.
    2nd, part way threw (couple of minutes) the trans started making a noise. I don't think it is any of the main gears, as the truck does not lose speed or power. it is possible I guess, that a screw from the diff case is rubbing the trans case. other possible thing is the diff gears are wearing. but the noise kinda comes and goes, and when I looked at the diff gears they looked OK to me. Im leaning towards the diff case screw hitting the trans case. The diff had side to side play, so that could explain the noise coming and going. I might just replace the whole diff. It was a $90 truck, so putting $15 into it isn't that bad. Oh, and a metal gear servo, lol.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  19. #19
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    Oh boy. You're gonna curse that thing now... Replacing a servo on the Evader is ...well let's just say it's my least favorite task. Getting the linkages and all lined up and managing to get the thing back together requires finesse. And, a strong wrist, as those screws are long. Then you turn on the thing only to find D'OH!! you need to move the damn servo arm one tooth the other direction.... and you have to do the whole dang thing over again.

    If your diff has that much side to side play, I wonder if you have and incorrect pairing of a previous trans case and metal diff? I dunno. But if you have a screw that doesn't want to stay in, or won't go in all the way, something is amiss. Is that screw longer than the others? Or the one on the opposite side? They should all sit flat and snug and they should all have thread loc used.

    It's hard to tell until you get used to the sound of the car as to what it could be. Comes and goes, you say? Still could be diff gears. Like I said, they should be nice and pyramidic. If they have a taper to them and they look like a turbo compressor, they're worn and should be replaced.
    Just a schmoe....

  20. #20
    nitrosportsandrunner's Avatar
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    yeh, just got done the servo replacing. I had an evader a few years back (brushed) and knew that it has by far, the worst servo mount setup of any RC sold. It is bad enough you have to try and line up the top plate with the bell crank posts, and that the screws are long. but then as you say, you cant re-seat the servo horn if you need to. I got lucky, turning the trim 95% to the right the wheels are straight.

    I removed one screw that would not sit flush. just didn't matter what I tried, swapping screws, cleaning out the hole ect, it would not sit flush. The diff doesn't have a ton of play, but I have no way of telling if this was a RTR brushless, or an older that was updated.

    gonna take it back out and see if I can get threw a pack.
    SC10rs, 1/6 hummer crawler, Kyosho Twin Force, Lunchbox project, Techone P51,

  21. #21
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    If your diff gears look like this, they're shot. Note the tapered profile. The two halfs of the diff gear have to mate squarely and securely (i.e. no loose screws) and the shims must be in place, or the mesh won't be right and your new diff gears end up looking like this in short order. I also suggest using grease in the diff instead of silicone fluid. Protects those tiny gears better and gives you a more locked-up diff action, for a while at least. I re-packed my diff after every 12-16 battery packs. Don't pack too much grease in there, or it WILL lock.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Just a schmoe....


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