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a problem that my local rc mechanics could not figure out, please help me

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a problem that my local rc mechanics could not figure out, please help me

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Old 05-21-2014, 03:55 PM
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Nuck Chorris
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Default a problem that my local rc mechanics could not figure out, please help me

alright i have an mgt 4.6 and i just rebuild the the transmission due the shaft breaking, before anything broke it was working great. so when i finished putting my transmission back i went to go outside and turn the truck on. once i do that my truck wants to launch off at top speed with a high pitched idle. my local rc mechanic could control the pitch by placing his thumb over where the air filter goes. he says it might be the o-ring in the carburetor but i dont know how to open it and replace the ring. AND NO i did not fed the engine a different percentage of nitro. so if anyone could figure out whats wrong with my mgt 4.6 engine that would be awesome
Old 05-21-2014, 06:23 PM
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nitroexpress
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download manual
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca....60_manual.pdf

Page 3 loosen pinch bolt 25363
rotate carb back and forth and pull carb out of engine block.

BTW - doubt your problem is carb 0-ring. Probably throttle/brake linkage or radio trim out of adjustment.

Last edited by nitroexpress; 05-21-2014 at 08:13 PM.
Old 05-21-2014, 10:00 PM
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Maj_Overdrive
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Originally Posted by nitroexpress
BTW - doubt your problem is carb 0-ring. Probably throttle/brake linkage or radio trim out of adjustment.
I second that. Plus, that carb oring wouldn't just suddenly go bad. You'd have to rotate the carb or do something to it and since you don't know how to get the carb off I doubt it's the oring as well. Your rc mechanic overlooked the obvious linkage problem. The throttle linkage goes right over the trans so you obviously disconnected it to remove the trans. Hopefully you disconnected the servo horn from the servo and didn't mess with the adjustments at all. If you just popped the horn off, turn the radio on so the throttle servo is in it's neutral setting. Then just put the servo horn back on while making sure the throttle on the carb is closed. Viola the linkage is back where it was before.

If you messed with the adjustments on the linkage itself the process is a little more complicated but still the same. With the trims on the radio centered put the servo horn on to match pics and so it has equal travel in both directions. Now with the radio still on and centered adjust the throttle side of the linkage until the carb is closed and on the idle screw. Test for operation to full throttle and making sure there's no binding. Then move on to the brake and adjust so it doesn't drag at neutral but engages fully.
Old 05-22-2014, 06:52 AM
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Nuck Chorris
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Originally Posted by Maj_Overdrive
I second that. Plus, that carb oring wouldn't just suddenly go bad. You'd have to rotate the carb or do something to it and since you don't know how to get the carb off I doubt it's the oring as well. Your rc mechanic overlooked the obvious linkage problem. The throttle linkage goes right over the trans so you obviously disconnected it to remove the trans. Hopefully you disconnected the servo horn from the servo and didn't mess with the adjustments at all. If you just popped the horn off, turn the radio on so the throttle servo is in it's neutral setting. Then just put the servo horn back on while making sure the throttle on the carb is closed. Viola the linkage is back where it was before.

If you messed with the adjustments on the linkage itself the process is a little more complicated but still the same. With the trims on the radio centered put the servo horn on to match pics and so it has equal travel in both directions. Now with the radio still on and centered adjust the throttle side of the linkage until the carb is closed and on the idle screw. Test for operation to full throttle and making sure there's no binding. Then move on to the brake and adjust so it doesn't drag at neutral but engages fully.
Oh just yesterday I got my carb out it's just that I was not using enough force to get it out but thanks I will try these suggestions and update you guys with what happens
Old 05-22-2014, 12:12 PM
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Nuck Chorris
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well from the looks of it id just rather buy a new engine then mess it up even more
Old 05-22-2014, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Nuck Chorris
well from the looks of it id just rather buy a new engine then mess it up even more
That's a good way to not learn a thing. Did you follow the things already recommended like checking linkage and transmitter settings?

Last edited by 1QwkSport2.5r; 05-22-2014 at 03:59 PM. Reason: Fixed typo. Thanks Maj!
Old 05-22-2014, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Nuck Chorris
well from the looks of it id just rather buy a new engine then mess it up even more
Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
That's a good way to not learn a thing. Did you follow the things already recommended like checking linkage and transmitter settings?
Fixed your typo Qwk. Wow. Sounds like a case of "Mommy, daddy, buy me a new one."
Old 05-22-2014, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Maj_Overdrive
Fixed your typo Qwk. Wow. Sounds like a case of "Mommy, daddy, buy me a new one."
Something like that.

I fixed the typo in my post too, thanks. Stupid "smart"phone and autocorrect...
Old 05-22-2014, 04:45 PM
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have not had the time but tomorrow after school ill see what happens
Old 05-24-2014, 03:43 PM
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Id find a new rc mechanic if he cant figure out a isue with high idle problems just sayin
Old 05-24-2014, 08:36 PM
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I'd sugest approaching the hobby in a different way.

These nitro engines don't hold there tune are are not reliable enough to be a driver with a mechanic.
the driver needs to be the mechanic, ideally u need a mentor not a mechanic so u can Learn the ropes.

another option would be to self teach yourself with loads of reading and watching YouTube videos.

The only way it's going to launch off at idle is..
1 carby opening or open to far
2 engine is lean or leaning out.
3 clutch jammed


First thing to check does that noise go away with the arifilter removed?
1: check the air gap, it should be around 1mm, recheck that gap with the radio gear turned on, and double check the servo is centering correctly.

2: double check both HSN and LSN settings, if the motor starts, spray water or degreaser around the base of the carby and back plate looking for leaks, if its leaking u will notice as u spray the motor RPM will change. If u remove the engine and clutch bell is there a buildup of oil and crap on the front bearing?

3: can u turn the cluch bell by hand easily?? Or if u pull the car backwards can u see it spinning?
Old 05-27-2014, 03:11 AM
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Nuck Chorris
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he works at the nearest hobby town and actually solve all my rc problems so thats already a no and its not just high idle problem its more than that, first thing he did when we turned it on was trying to tune the truck and obviously that did not work, basically no matter if i turn the idle speed needle or any other needle no affect is taken
Old 05-28-2014, 12:27 AM
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Yep makes sense.... We are only assuming but if there is a issue with the radio, servo, or linkages holding the carby open, u can adjust the idle screw as much as u want, it won't have any effect untill the brakes are applied.
Old 05-28-2014, 03:53 AM
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Have u actially tried do diagnose it? Because if ur mechanic/buddy that works at ur local hobby town does not know how to change the carby o ring he is properlay not the best with nitro motors, and I wouldent rely on him fixing it for u...

I'm just lost on how we can help?? Are u willing to do some of the things sugested? And even if u are worried about the carby o ring replace it, they are generally under $5 for genuine or $1 from a hardware store.
Old 05-28-2014, 05:38 AM
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Nuck Chorris
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ive replaced the o-ring about a week ago and i never asked him to change my o-ring
i most likely will be able to try it today and update you with what happens
Old 05-29-2014, 12:02 AM
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Good luck, there is some great suggestion to try, I hope u get it figured out...

if u need I can link a series of videos on YouTube that would defiantly be worth watching. They may or may not help with ur current problem but knowledge is the key to successful motoring.
Old 05-30-2014, 11:15 AM
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Nuck Chorris
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Please do so it I would appreciate it
Old 05-31-2014, 02:25 AM
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Here is a good one to start with....

http://youtu.be/GkzpdZGGXPM and here is a great series by the same guy starting with video 1

http://youtu.be/WOZiU265FKE
Old 06-03-2014, 07:01 AM
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Nuck Chorris
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there is also something odd with my transmission that i've never experienced until i rebuit it. before, if it was on foward and i make it go backwards it still go but make a click clack noise (this was normal). but now i do it and it comes to a copmlete stop unless i move it foward. same thing happens when its on reverse. i move it fowaard it comes to a complete stop and i cant move it at all unless i move it in the directionn it's suppose to move in
Old 06-03-2014, 07:06 AM
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Nuck Chorris
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..
Old 06-04-2014, 10:15 PM
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well from the looks of it id just rather buy a new engine then mess it up even more
Old 06-08-2014, 12:13 AM
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rotate carb back and forth and pull carb out of engine block.

Old 06-08-2014, 02:30 PM
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The_Shark
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I don't think your ready for this kind of truck. Start with something easier.
Old 06-08-2014, 05:19 PM
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Please don't take any offense but I've had this tuck for two years so it makes no sense to say I'm not ready
Old 06-08-2014, 05:43 PM
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Don't take offense but you should know the truck like the back of your hand.


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