Register

If this is your first visit, please click the Sign Up now button to begin the process of creating your account so you can begin posting on our forums! The Sign Up process will only take up about a minute of two of your time.

Results 1 to 21 of 21

  1. #1
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,074
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    Steel Spur? How well does it go with other models?

    Hey, I'm looking to put a steel spur on my Duratrax Evader ST. I looked at a couple ae ones, but started reading stuff about how people were having trouble when the steel spur strips from a bad mesh and ruins the pinion. I thought maybe I could just go to 32P instead and maybe that would solve my spur stripping issue. It looks like the Duratrax Nitro Evader ST plastic spur would fit and it's 32P. So what do you guys think? Steel or plastic? Is steel that much better?
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  2. #2
    Maj_Overdrive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    730
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Most of the time I don't see the need for a steel spur, with proper mesh plastic spurs hold up just fine. Some people run into issues when running a steel spur because you must run a hardened steel pinion with steel spur gears. If you use any other pinion with a steel spur the pinion will wear down.
    Punch Control? I don't need no stinking Punch Control!

  3. #3
    phmaximus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    6,083
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    I second that....

    I wonder tho what is causing it to strip?

    It it at all possible the motor has shifted?? It can be a bit of a issue with alloy plated gearboxes. Does it have big washers under the motors screws?
    LOSI: 5IVE-T, 8IGHT-E, MICRO SCT
    Tamiya: TL01MT, TL01B, TA01RA, Clodbuster
    Traxxas: Slash 2wd, Axial: SCX10 Honcho
    Hobao: Hyper 10e, River Hobby X-Ranger

  4. #4
    Maj_Overdrive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    730
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    I missed the part where the OP said he was having issues stripping spur gears. Setting mesh is a bit of an art. I don't like the paper trick, it always ends up too tight for me. Instead I just make sure there is a tiny bit of play between the pinion and spur. When set right you can "rock" the spur back and forth just a little without the pinion moving. The finer the pitch of the gears the harder this is to achieve.

    The he motor shifting it's position is another common problem. If your motor screws are Phillips I recommend changing them to hex hardware and make sure there are washers on the screws as phmaximus said.
    Punch Control? I don't need no stinking Punch Control!

  5. #5
    1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cottage Grove, MN
    Posts
    5,278
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    I was using a hardened steel clutchbell and steel spur gear on a nitro rustler for a very short time due to the teeth on the clutchbell completely wearing down within 3 tanks of fuel. The spur was a Robinson Racing piece and the clutchbell was from Racers Edge I think. When I set the mesh on my Rusty, I used 15lb paper which is a little thinner than regular xerox paper. There was a minute amount of play in the spur mesh and it made no abnormal noise while running. After the first tank I noticed the CB teeth were pretty shiny, so I widened the mesh slightly with 20lb paper. Again, no noise outside of normal. The CB kept getting worse so I just ran it until it was nearly toast and put stock hardware back on. New hardened CB and a plastic spur; no more problems. Morale of my story is: steel spurs are worthless unless you have titanium clutchbells. I'll never use another steel spur again.

    Before anyone bashes my meshing method or blaming the wear on bad mesh; I checked to ensure the engine was straight to the transmission & spur assembly by measuring with a vernier caliper. I also used a white gear marking grease used in setting up full size car/truck differentials to get the right mesh pattern. I even went so far as to remove the slipper clutch assembly and instead run the spur rigid to the (dead straight) transmission shaft so there a as no chance for the gear to "walk" a little bit. Extreme measures, yes... But everyone at the time was saying RRP steel gears were all the rage and you "have" to have one. Sorry for the boring long story. I just don't think they're worth using IMO. I've only ever worn out a plastic spur from road debris getting stuck in the teeth or worth clutch bearings. They last a long time otherwise.

    Just my 2 cents.
    GlowHead Brotherhood #3
    Using Dynamite, Enya, Fox, Jett, K&B, SH, Super Tigre, Thunder Tiger, and Traxxas engines.


  6. #6
    Maj_Overdrive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    730
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    I agree with you Quick. I had the same crap happen to me when I had a 2.5 Tmaxx. Everyone said Robinson was the bomb, I ditched the plastic because I wanted their upgraded slipper. It also wore down hardened clutch bells.

    I have had as better luck with hardened pinions on 1/8 conversions though. Not sure if it's the Mod1 pitch but the wear is significantly less compared to the clutchbells. The pinions do still wear though so I go with a plastic spur whenever I can. I've never had an issue with a plastic spur that wasn't cause by a motor shifting. My LST XXL is powered by a Castle 1717 on 6s and the plastic spur is original to the truck and has been brushless for 3 years now. I think plastic can hold up just fine.
    Punch Control? I don't need no stinking Punch Control!

  7. #7
    1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cottage Grove, MN
    Posts
    5,278
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Hardened steel pinions/clutchbells and plastic spurs FTW!!!

    I did put my slipper back on my N Rusty after it ate the CB. Not that it needs it, all it ever does is wheelie with a 3.3 and CVEC pipe with 22/66 gears. I have plans to do a 24 or 26t CB and 54-56t spur in the N. Rusty to see what it can do using a full wave tuned pipe (think 18" long pipe with end bleed stinger). It might look funny but man it should fly.
    GlowHead Brotherhood #3
    Using Dynamite, Enya, Fox, Jett, K&B, SH, Super Tigre, Thunder Tiger, and Traxxas engines.


  8. #8
    I always thought the reason we ran plastic spur was more down to damage management? Say you landed too hard/fast/funky, rather a spur go than the diffs/possible engine/motor damage?

  9. #9
    1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cottage Grove, MN
    Posts
    5,278
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Quote Originally Posted by G0ldengoose View Post
    I always thought the reason we ran plastic spur was more down to damage management? Say you landed too hard/fast/funky, rather a spur go than the diffs/possible engine/motor damage?
    I think the reason to use a steel spur gear is for the bling factor. Same for using alloy A-arms, alloy shock towers, etc. Landing too hard/fast/funky is handled by a properly adjusted slipper clutch.
    GlowHead Brotherhood #3
    Using Dynamite, Enya, Fox, Jett, K&B, SH, Super Tigre, Thunder Tiger, and Traxxas engines.


  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r View Post
    I think the reason to use a steel spur gear is for the bling factor. Same for using alloy A-arms, alloy shock towers, etc. Landing too hard/fast/funky is handled by a properly adjusted slipper clutch.
    that makes sense actually. Myth busted!

  11. #11
    The_Shark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Plainfield, IL
    Posts
    7,163
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    No steel, kimbrough.
    Signature
    (Max. 125 chars. 2 lines max)

  12. #12
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,074
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Shark- Is this what your talking of? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXS394&P=7 Would it bolt on to my old Evader ST slipper setup? Thanks.

    Overdrive- I too had trouble with the paper trick giving me tight meshes. Eye-balling meshes FTW

    QWK- Thanks for your input! I am not running nitros though, but very informative for those who are! I am not going for the bling factor. A steel spur would be strictly for function only. I'll probably have a gear cover over it anyway (If it fits). If I run a steel (Sounds like I won't be) I would set the slipper clutch. If I do a plastic 32P, I will either lock up the slipper or do very little slip.

    Golden Goose- I have a full metal gearbox. A steel spur would replace the last plastic gear on the truck. I'm not really worried about my diff. I didn't mention I had an upgraded tranny so I can understand the confusion. A little slip in my slipper might be what I will do. Thanks for your reply!
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  13. #13
    The_Shark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Plainfield, IL
    Posts
    7,163
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Yup
    Signature
    (Max. 125 chars. 2 lines max)

  14. #14
    1QwkSport2.5r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Cottage Grove, MN
    Posts
    5,278
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Nitro or electric, the same things apply. I would be wary of case hardened pinions. I believe my clutchbell failure was due to a case hardened clutchbell and not a through-hardened piece which I assumed it was.

    I guess I don't understand the "function" of a steel spur gear other than "bling". If a plastic one wore out or is wearing, there's a reason for it. I guess I go at the hobby with a little practicality in mind and I don't see where the practicality is in using some of the option parts that are available. But that's just me and I certainly mean no offense to anyone who uses that stuff. Maybe I'm too "old fashioned". LoL.
    GlowHead Brotherhood #3
    Using Dynamite, Enya, Fox, Jett, K&B, SH, Super Tigre, Thunder Tiger, and Traxxas engines.


  15. #15
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,074
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    I know what you mean about the plastic wearing out for a reason. I believe the reason is that I have too much power for the robinson spurs to handle. I've tried everything with those Robinson spurs. Super tight meshes, loose meshes, set perfect meshes and I have 8 ruined ones to prove it. I'm just sick of having to replace the spur every 3 runs. Everything looks normal, I just don't understand why they strip...
    Quote Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r View Post
    Nitro or electric, the same things apply. I would be wary of case hardened pinions. I believe my clutchbell failure was due to a case hardened clutchbell and not a through-hardened piece which I assumed it was.

    I guess I don't understand the "function" of a steel spur gear other than "bling". If a plastic one wore out or is wearing, there's a reason for it. I guess I go at the hobby with a little practicality in mind and I don't see where the practicality is in using some of the option parts that are available. But that's just me and I certainly mean no offense to anyone who uses that stuff. Maybe I'm too "old fashioned". LoL.
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  16. #16
    phmaximus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    6,083
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    What motor size, KV and voltage are u running?
    LOSI: 5IVE-T, 8IGHT-E, MICRO SCT
    Tamiya: TL01MT, TL01B, TA01RA, Clodbuster
    Traxxas: Slash 2wd, Axial: SCX10 Honcho
    Hobao: Hyper 10e, River Hobby X-Ranger

  17. #17
    The_Shark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Plainfield, IL
    Posts
    7,163
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Quote Originally Posted by DieHarder View Post
    I know what you mean about the plastic wearing out for a reason. I believe the reason is that I have too much power for the robinson spurs to handle. I've tried everything with those Robinson spurs. Super tight meshes, loose meshes, set perfect meshes and I have 8 ruined ones to prove it. I'm just sick of having to replace the spur every 3 runs. Everything looks normal, I just don't understand why they strip...
    Something is flexing or backplate is tweaked.
    Signature
    (Max. 125 chars. 2 lines max)

  18. #18
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,074
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    540 3500kv on 2S. It's a Velineon system. It mounts to an aluminum motor mount plate that I just recently replaced because I thought it was bent and causing the strips. It didn't help. I seems like a pretty stiff aluminum plate too. Like 3mm thick or so. I have the motor mounted with some 3mm Phillips head screws that have permanent washers on them. Maybe the washers allow some slip? Should I try screws with no washers and maybe a larger screw head?
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  19. #19
    ahawk65's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Keller, TX
    Posts
    142
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Quote Originally Posted by G0ldengoose View Post
    I always thought the reason we ran plastic spur was more down to damage management? Say you landed too hard/fast/funky, rather a spur go than the diffs/possible engine/motor damage?
    This is what I have always thought too. Paper mesh fixes it right up.
    Hyper 7 PBS, RC18T, RC10GT (x2), T-Maxx 3.3, LST 2, Baja 5b

    The best vitamin for making friends: B1

  20. #20
    phmaximus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    6,083
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Quote Originally Posted by DieHarder View Post
    540 3500kv on 2S. It's a Velineon system. It mounts to an aluminum motor mount plate that I just recently replaced because I thought it was bent and causing the strips. It didn't help. I seems like a pretty stiff aluminum plate too. Like 3mm thick or so. I have the motor mounted with some 3mm Phillips head screws that have permanent washers on them. Maybe the washers allow some slip? Should I try screws with no washers and maybe a larger screw head?
    Hummm so it's not really excessive for that type of vehicle. After all the rustler VXL would be about the same.

    ok... So it sounds like the motor plate is all good... Next thing to check is is the plate nice ant tight on the gearbox?

    generally the washers help... Well proving the hole is right for the screw.

    my last thought is, get a new spur and set the gear mess so its spot on, then mark the mounting screws with a paint marker so u can tell if its moved. So draw a line from the middle of the screw over the washer and slightly onto the alloy plate. Make the line so its heading towards the spur gear. Then if it stripes again u can check to see if there is gap in the paint mark... If there is a gap that means the motor has moved... Allso check the screw tension to see if that's a cause for it moving.
    LOSI: 5IVE-T, 8IGHT-E, MICRO SCT
    Tamiya: TL01MT, TL01B, TA01RA, Clodbuster
    Traxxas: Slash 2wd, Axial: SCX10 Honcho
    Hobao: Hyper 10e, River Hobby X-Ranger

  21. #21
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,074
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    So what exactly are you referring to when you say "screw tension"? Like how tight the motor screws are? I will try that. Thanks for the info. 2 of the 3 gearbox to motor plate screws tighten down. The last one is stripped and only tightens so far.
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:48 AM.

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.