RustyUs

Dude, I don't know what to say. I feel for you. I've been there and done that. I get one thing fixed, then not even through next battery pack, something else happens.

What happend to your new brushless motor? Some of the dirt-cheap brushless motors can take a real licking. Take it apart, and see what's inside, but keep track of the shims on each side of the rotor.

RetiredRoadThunder

I'm not sure if I'd know what to look for in the burned up brushless setup- I'm a mechanic by day but the hobby grade R/C stuff is new to me, but no harm in taking it apart I guess.

Breaking suspension and steering stuff wasn't a big deal those parts were cheap and easy to replace, but I'm starting to think my gearing or battery voltage/choice or something is off, (and those were through crashes, my driving improved and now it's mostly mechanical failures.) With the speed tuned gears the it wouldn't spin the tires any more and the top speed was only slightly faster- but they were made for the small tire tl01a.

With the steering I think the problem is I got tired of breaking the steering pivot on the servo so I put an aluminum head from a CC01 and there was a metal servo saver on it that didn't actually give and stressed the servo, maybe I can fit the tl01 plastic saver onto it and get the best of both worlds.

Maybe I'm putting to much effort into the old tl01 design, I have looked at a few others but whenever I do I end up looking at more classic tamiyas, like the Blackfoot or lunchbox maybe a konghead. Lol

RustyUs

I put another LiPo to rest. I'm not going to attempt to make a 2S pack out of a 3S pack with one bad cell. IR numbers on the cells are 6,9, 37mΩ. The pack is probably 2 years old. Not a long lifespan, but I can't trust the pack anymore.

mattster1971

I bought a Used Traxxas 4tec from a good guy at the local hobby shop. It works great. Just a few minor things that I needed to do to get it going, got a good tune on it and I have had 5 tanks through it now. Runs great. really impressed with the speed of this little Nitro. The only thing I don't care for is the push when you turn. It doesn't like to turn. And when it gets hot the braking is less than stellar. Otherwise having fun with it.

RustyUs

I'm sure you'll get the 4TEC figured out. The right tires, messing with the caster angles, and all wheel drive...sounds like fun!

You picked up a new (used) ride, I just picked up rocks to take along for the ride...

suburban_hooligan

i finally dug into things after months of doing nothing. fixed the steering on my Tamiya Mini Cooper M03 chassis. i apparently had the wrong servo horn on it, wrong spline and it kept skipping teeth and jacking the steering up. so i found the right servo horn insert and took care of that. also found that my Mini Apex had a blown shock so i fixed that and changed the shock oil in all 4 shocks. charged up a couple packs, planning on stopping by my on road bash spot some time this week. it's been probably 5 months sense iv driven. been probably close to a year sense iv driven the Mini Cooper.

PaulDeth

The TR-MT8e [1/8] came with a smear of lok-tite on the wheel hubs. After some use it began to jam up the wheel nuts and would not tighten enough. Soooo the dremel and small stainless wire brush scrubbed it all off and it now tightens easily.

mattster1971

Thats a big rock!

RustyUs

You should see some of the stuff that comes out of the dirt when I'm slowly taking the top layer off every pass. My buggies will get flipped/tossed/thrown into the air at times when I run it to newly uncovered miniature boulder .

RustyUs

I knew something was up when I had extra drag brake in the corners. I just kept pushing my buggy thinking ESC was acting up. Coming off the track, I seen some smoke. I starting thinking, OH CRAP, my new battery is toast. Hurrying over to buggy to rip off body, and hopefully grabbing/tossing whatever was the cause of the smoke. Smoke had dissipated before I got to RC.

Not sure if my Castle 1512 will be the same after coming off the track smoking . Blown motor bearing was the cause of heat. The insides of motor don't look fried, but smells like crap. Snapped two of the three screws on end cap while trying to get them out.

In any case, 5x16mm bearings are needing/used in the Castle 1512 motor .

RustyUs

I never ran into a situation like this before.

I'm pretty sure it's too late for my motor. I replace the bearings and tapped the end cap for new screws. I got the motor together, but motor is still pretty hard to turn by hand with pinion gear on the shaft. I grabbed a 3S pack, and connected everything. Five seconds of motor turning at 1/4 throttle; witnessing a stream of smoke rise from motor, I shut it down. All wires (battery, ESC, and motor) were very warm, and motor was getting very warm as well.

Not sure I can wrap my head around the motor working so hard to move the rotor that it's causing so much heat/power strain in such a short amount of time.

I'll chalk this one up to my stupidness of having too much fun that I forget to take care of motor bearings. Who knows, maybe it was something else that lead to heat; that lead to bearing failure.

The search is on for a low budget 1/8 2650kv-ish 3S motor.

RustyUs

Been beating the snot out of my SC10. Trying to put the final "nail in the coffin" for CVD and wheel hex.

At the moment, I'm using a brad (nail) for a CVD pin. OEM pin went flying as I was trying to Dremel a flat spot for setscrew .

Issue with axle nut...it keeps coming loose after five minutes or so. I'm using new nylon insert lock nuts also. They are not staying tight enough to get me through a complete run anymore.

You would think somebody out there makes 8-32 flange nylon insert serrated lock nuts. Nope. I've looked high, and low for some of them. I settled for 8-32 flange serrated nuts for SC10's axles. I seriously didn't think they would hold, but after using serrated nuts for 1/8 scale buggy, I had to try them on the SC truck. Two runs in with the SC truck, and the flange serrated lock nuts did not budge. I did add a bit of thread lock to the outside of the nut hoping some of it would work it's way in the threads.

I have a fear of thread lock on plastic wheels as I've seen Loctite eat, and make some plastics brittle. So far, so good on Associated wheels.

suburban_hooligan

iv been letting my stuff collect dust the last 2 weeks. kinda want to run ether the SC10 or RC10 worlds car, just can't find the motivation to charge a battery and actually do it

seedygreenute

Rusty ... How low budget are you going ?

RustyUs

I have my offer in. Super low budget of course ...
BoldClash 2250KV 3674 4 Poles Sensorless Brushless Motor for RC 1/8 Truck Car eBay

RustyUs

Homecoming dress for daughter ; four tires for full size truck; oxygen sensor; serpentine belt, and possibly some struts and head lights for daughter's Rav4...My RC budget is squeezed tight at the moment.

seedygreenute

I know the feeling ... I was going to suggest a HPI alphastar 2350 ( made by Castle ) but thought the KV might be too low . A bit more than your budget though

BrickitSAM

Today I fixed my T-maxx and started working on a custom chassis plate

RustyUs

Much needed rain came today. Gave me an excuse to putz around inside. A thirteen-year-old battered, and beaten B4 buggy sat in the garage calling to me for some TLC. Having some long awaited 0.5mm shims in pit box again, I thought I'd try and tighten up the front end of B4; get her back close to her glory days.

Well, after 4mm of shims just in the front arms & caster blocks, the slop issue has gotten better. Replaced the Lunsford (awesome) rod ends with new RPM ones. Remaining slop is about 2mm of side to side movement from the steering system...I can deal with it. Before I started tearing apart everything today, I had at least 5mm of side to side slop .

JP racing videos

I did full service for two my friends rc cars, old Tamiya durga and Xray T3 touring car. Touring car was in pretty terrible condition, only what stayed on that car was bulkheads, carbon parts....all other was ruined. Waiting some old spareparts now. Not worth to buy new ones, same if you buy new....But we will get there.

tom4

not today, but last week, I ordered a new velineon motor for my tamiya madbull.
I'd like to go over 60kmh with it

tom4

dvmohan

I made a new body for my RC Car

Userofmuchtape@glue

I drove my 1/16 bad bug till the wheel fell of.... then popped the ball joint and kept going! just can't turn left...

And yesterday I pulled out the front drive shaft and 2WD it on the concrete, got some mad skids!

RustyUs

You know, some days are better than others. Cheers. To better days ahead.

RustyUs

I've been dormant with my RCs for awhile now. Time change messed me up. Gives me too much time to think about buying parts for my RCs. I can't remember all the parts I have and for which platform.

I was reading about someone looking for a BullDog body for their ST. Proline doesn't make them anymore for this one particular model. It got me thinking, and then I went into panic mode. I went into storage room and started pulling boxes down with my truck's spare bodies in it...I found two BullDog bodies there that I forgot I had .