Problem Need Help.
#52
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before i put that plastic pieceon with screws that covers the servo it works just fine, although it is already very close to the servo anyways.
i didnt change the servo arm or the ball join that attaches to the servo horn to the wheel turning thing. the last two pictures are the cover on the last servo you can see it is angled, the new servo is just a straight block, dontknow if thats the issue or if imputting something together wrong, i dont know anything about the components of my vehicle, just getting alot of headaches over the thing andnot getting to have any fun haha.
i didnt change the servo arm or the ball join that attaches to the servo horn to the wheel turning thing. the last two pictures are the cover on the last servo you can see it is angled, the new servo is just a straight block, dontknow if thats the issue or if imputting something together wrong, i dont know anything about the components of my vehicle, just getting alot of headaches over the thing andnot getting to have any fun haha.
#53
My Feedback: (1)
I see exactly what you're talking about. The arm on the steering bell crank is hitting the dang servo case!
(Btw your steering set up is almost exactly like the Evader.)
Here's what you do: Instead of mounting the servo on the forward side of the mounting tabs, mount the servo on the aft side of the tabs. The bell crank arm will clear, and the steering will work now.
(Btw your steering set up is almost exactly like the Evader.)
Here's what you do: Instead of mounting the servo on the forward side of the mounting tabs, mount the servo on the aft side of the tabs. The bell crank arm will clear, and the steering will work now.
#56
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yeahi guess lol, im just worried that this RTR kit my wife bought me is terrible and im wasting mytime trying to make it work, not that i can afford any other options rightnow haha. feel like flipping from left to right would have the exact same result..
#57
In your 3rd photo , it looks like something is between the servo and the mounts pushing the servo forward and hitting the arm .
Found this for you to look at . http://www.ecxrc.com/ProdInfo/Files/...nual-MULTI.pdf
Pages 6 & 7 show how to install servo .
Found this for you to look at . http://www.ecxrc.com/ProdInfo/Files/...nual-MULTI.pdf
Pages 6 & 7 show how to install servo .
#58
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dont know what these things are called but servo connected to horn horn connect to the thing with the ball on it, that connected to the thing that connects to the wheels. its not something i can move. ill look at the manual but its not gonna tell me anything different than how ive got it im sure. thats how the default one was installed as well, it was close but because it slants it fit, this one doesnt slant.
#59
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so a bit more playing around and i realized the root of allmy problems. the first picture is the new servo you can see it doesnt fit on the anchor spots for the servo, the second is the top of the original servo it fits snug on the anchor points. any suggestions on how to make this new one fit without destroying the chasis? im not longer eligible for returning this solar servo...
new servo is roughly 2 mm deeper and 1mm wider.
new servo is roughly 2 mm deeper and 1mm wider.
Last edited by Menaceofri; 08-27-2016 at 06:27 PM.
#60
Loosen the servo mounts, and with a little bit of wiggle, they should, maybe with a little bit of coaxing, slip right into the servo's mounting tabs. Those extra raised areas on the servo mount are there for supporting the servo better, they keep the servo from moving around on the screws, and the rubber grommets (that came with the servo) are not needed.
The fit and finish of some components is not always the best. The servo's mounting tabs/ears should sit flush on the chassis servo mounts. This is another place a rotary tool is helpful in the hobby.
I always put my servo mounts on the servo before putting the servo in the chassis like shown in the manual.
http://www.ecxrc.com/ProdInfo/Files/...nual-MULTI.pdf
The fit and finish of some components is not always the best. The servo's mounting tabs/ears should sit flush on the chassis servo mounts. This is another place a rotary tool is helpful in the hobby.
I always put my servo mounts on the servo before putting the servo in the chassis like shown in the manual.
http://www.ecxrc.com/ProdInfo/Files/...nual-MULTI.pdf
Last edited by RustyUs; 08-28-2016 at 06:36 AM. Reason: wording
#61
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i didnt realize thosemounts were removable, woulda been easier if i had put the whole thing together myself i guess haha. but i dont think there is any wiggling them on, maybe i can put the servo on the mounts and screw them to the chasis a little looser, 99% sure the servo is bigger to the point that it wont fit as intended. the original one is flush an exact fit and this one is larger by 2mm in width. thanks for all the tips. ill report back and hopefully not have more problems haha.
#62
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so after like 3 weeks and 100 posts i feel like my car is back together, it turns and everything gonna take it out to the park today. need to go buy a velcro strap and some double sided tape for the reciever and the ecs because they got wet or something and arent sticky anymore.
#63
i didnt realize thosemounts were removable, woulda been easier if i had put the whole thing together myself i guess haha. but i dont think there is any wiggling them on, maybe i can put the servo on the mounts and screw them to the chasis a little looser, 99% sure the servo is bigger to the point that it wont fit as intended. the original one is flush an exact fit and this one is larger by 2mm in width. thanks for all the tips. ill report back and hopefully not have more problems haha.
Thanks for posting pictures. That makes a world of difference sometimes when trying to explain suff.
#64
so after like 3 weeks and 100 posts i feel like my car is back together, it turns and everything gonna take it out to the park today. need to go buy a velcro strap and some double sided tape for the reciever and the ecs because they got wet or something and arent sticky anymore.
Good luck. Get out there and throw some dirt!
#66
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yeah i rode it for about an hour and a half todayonmy 5100 nickle metal battery, not amazing but hey it works haha. no issues everything seems good. offroad it is definitely dusty, how long of useuntil you expect those issues you have yearly start to pop up their heads? how will i know what they are when they happen?
Also today i bought a couple velcro straps(50 to be exact) to hold the battery in place and the ESC because the two sided tape that came stock lost its grip after like 2 hours.
Also today i bought a couple velcro straps(50 to be exact) to hold the battery in place and the ESC because the two sided tape that came stock lost its grip after like 2 hours.
#67
Maintenance schedule for me was easy back when I only ran two RCs. I would take out all the (exposed) bearings and clean/lube them twice a month. This is of course under the assumption that I ran my RCs everyday on a very dusty track. Now I clean/lube bearings, and rebuild shocks after 20 runs. I have to put a hash mark under (on paper) each RC that I run now, or I'll never remember which RC needs worked on. The "20 runs" is just something I came up with, because it seems to be about the average amount of time I can run a RC on a very dusty backyard track before a bearing seizes, or blows up (almost literary). Some days I don't get so lucky and have a bearing failure after putting 15 packs through a vehicle.
It just depends on the conditions you run in and how much power you are trying to put down.
Each RC vehicle has their little "hiccups" that needs special attention. Like my Evader ST...I have to remember to check the rear arm mounts. Every couple of runs I have to be making sure the front screws, that secure it to the chassis, are not coming loose.
It just depends on the conditions you run in and how much power you are trying to put down.
Each RC vehicle has their little "hiccups" that needs special attention. Like my Evader ST...I have to remember to check the rear arm mounts. Every couple of runs I have to be making sure the front screws, that secure it to the chassis, are not coming loose.
#68
Probably will find at most retail stores. Usually, 3M dark grey/black double sided tape is always a great choice, and will get the job done nicely. Sometimes I got to go a step further and must use E6000 (some people use Shoo-Goo; basically is the same stuff) for mounting some ESCs to a plastic chassis cavity that is not liking double sided tape.
#69
My Feedback: (1)
Glad you finally got it figured out. I didn't see those barrel tabs on the servo mounts.
Last edited by EXT2Rob; 08-29-2016 at 08:01 AM.
#71
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Lol. 😉 Don't worry. How's your tool situation? Got some hex drivers? Nut drivers ? You've got two bearings per wheel. Two on the differential, which is in the transmission, and several in the transmission. Those don't need service that often. But the wheel bearings, if you're in dusty conditions, yeah, every 20 battery packs you should check them for grit. Clean them if necessary, and relube them. 11x6mm bearings aren't cheap if you buy Bocas.
#72
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tool situation is pretty poor, have some allen wrenches, some screw drivers and stuff but nothing amazing. even getting some of the screws in on the chasis were a pain with what ive got. so im sure i need new sets of those things. any recommendations? and lube and bearings?
#73
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Starting out, you'd probably be fine getting a set of Dynamite tools at your local RC shop or online...A-Main Hobbies, Tower Hobbies, eBay... they're good enough to get going with. The nut drivers are fine, I still use my originals. The hex drivers will wear out. But by then you'll know which ones you need, and you can buy individual GOOD ones. You can get a set of hex drivers for $15-20 from Dynamite, but pay $15 for one MIP hex driver.
I'd suggest changing any and all Phillips screws to hex, if your car isn't metric hex already.
For general lubing of chassis bits like rod ends, ball cups, and other stuff that is going to get dirty, you want to use a dry lube like O'Donnell O'lube. Leaves a lube that won't attract and keep dust and dirt.
For bearings, you want a bearing lube. SIN lube is one. The standard Boca rubber sealed bearings will do you just fine. Getting the rubber sealed ones allows you to remove the seals and clean the bearing, then pop the seals back in. Check for smoothness and reinstall.
I'd suggest changing any and all Phillips screws to hex, if your car isn't metric hex already.
For general lubing of chassis bits like rod ends, ball cups, and other stuff that is going to get dirty, you want to use a dry lube like O'Donnell O'lube. Leaves a lube that won't attract and keep dust and dirt.
For bearings, you want a bearing lube. SIN lube is one. The standard Boca rubber sealed bearings will do you just fine. Getting the rubber sealed ones allows you to remove the seals and clean the bearing, then pop the seals back in. Check for smoothness and reinstall.
#74
Don't let my situation deter you from the hobby. It's just when I say dusty, basically I mean dirt being throw onto the bearings at every turn. It gets real bad at the track after I run my heavier RCs; breaking up the top layer, and getting loamy with each lap.
#75
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glad to hear you got it running. Just wanted to say that when you go to remount your esc and reciever to take a little alcohol on a rag and wipe any surface you are going to use the tape on. The best way to do it is clean your surfaces then apply the tape to whatever it is your working on and when you go to stick em on, hold pressure on em with your hand for about a minute. hope your having fun with your truck bro.