Old timer getting back into it.
#1
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Old timer getting back into it.
Hello,
I'm new to the forum and getting back into R/C. I used to race back in the day, approx 15 years ago. I have a functional XXXS and XXX4. I would like to go racing again but I have questions, such as, will brushless setups fit in my ancient equipment? Should I look into a new radio, or will the old stuff be fine? Also, I used to use Novak stuff pretty exclusively as far as battery chargers and ESCs went, I see they are no longer so what company is a good comp? So basically I am totally new to something I used to do. So any help or resources I could get would be great.
Thanks alot.
I'm new to the forum and getting back into R/C. I used to race back in the day, approx 15 years ago. I have a functional XXXS and XXX4. I would like to go racing again but I have questions, such as, will brushless setups fit in my ancient equipment? Should I look into a new radio, or will the old stuff be fine? Also, I used to use Novak stuff pretty exclusively as far as battery chargers and ESCs went, I see they are no longer so what company is a good comp? So basically I am totally new to something I used to do. So any help or resources I could get would be great.
Thanks alot.
#2
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I am in the same boat. I was out for years and started back in sorta last winter. I have an old rc10 goldpan fitted with a stealth. I dropped in a goolrc brushless, no sweat. I got a cheap flysky radio to go with it. Seems to work ok. Certainly not a futaba, but it does offer a lot of options as well as multiple models. If you race again, I'd get something better, but if you just want to initially get back in to it, it would run you about 70 for the motor/esc, and radio. I got a couple cheap flureon 2s lipo packs, as well. Don't bother with brushed motors. They just don't make them worth a damn these days.
The biggest thing I had issues with was the kv rating on motors now. Higher kv usually = faster rpm, but then poles also play a part. Is it a 2/4/6 pole. The esc does not care about the poles, so that is nice.
The biggest thing I had issues with was the kv rating on motors now. Higher kv usually = faster rpm, but then poles also play a part. Is it a 2/4/6 pole. The esc does not care about the poles, so that is nice.
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Right on, I appreciate the info. I'll have to do some looking. I really just wasn't sure in the brushless motors would physically fit in the older chassis. But if they fit in an RC10 they will fit in my losi. My cousin and my buddy used to run associated stuff. So the kv is like the old turn ratings I'm guessing? That's cool the ESCs are more versatile. You have to use a specific type charger for the lipos I'm guessing?
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Kv, is sorta like that, but a certain kv doesn't translate to a certain number of turns. Also, 2 pole usually have higher rpm, 4 have more torque.
I don't know if I would say esc are more versatile. You have to have an esc for the motor type. Brushed, or brushless, they are not interchangeable. I would call them about the same. Just like the old days, some handle more voltage than others do. The one nice thing is the better ones have a programming card that is supposed to make programming really easy.
Yes, you do need a charge that will do lithium batteries. Most these days will do nicd,nimh, and lithium.
Be careful with chargers, some are so flexible that they actually are difficult to figure out at first.
Oh, and some recommend a charging bag for lipos since they can catch fire. I haven't used one yet as I think the fire issue comes from over charging, charging too fast, or pack damage. But that is just my opinion, ymmv.
I don't know if I would say esc are more versatile. You have to have an esc for the motor type. Brushed, or brushless, they are not interchangeable. I would call them about the same. Just like the old days, some handle more voltage than others do. The one nice thing is the better ones have a programming card that is supposed to make programming really easy.
Yes, you do need a charge that will do lithium batteries. Most these days will do nicd,nimh, and lithium.
Be careful with chargers, some are so flexible that they actually are difficult to figure out at first.
Oh, and some recommend a charging bag for lipos since they can catch fire. I haven't used one yet as I think the fire issue comes from over charging, charging too fast, or pack damage. But that is just my opinion, ymmv.
#5
welcome back into the mix!
A LOT has changed over the past 15 years... while you can more than likely fit modern electronics in your dated cars, I probably wouldn't rely on them lasting very long without experiencing some broken parts and your biggest struggle will more than likely finding spares
That said, I wouldn't hesitate to drop in new equipment and run some practice laps just to knock the rust off your boots, but I would encourage you to consider buying a new kit in the near future if you want to be competitive.
Are you planning to get into stock racing or will you be running open mod?
As far as motors go, I'm partial to the Trinity Monster Max, but the Tekin Spec-R series are pretty strong too.
HobbyWing is my go to for ESC's
ProMatch Racing for my LiPo's
If you decide to buy a new kit, then I would narrow your choices between Tekno, XRay, Schumacher or Yokomo... I currently run Schumacher K2 but recently picked up a Tekno EB410.
A LOT has changed over the past 15 years... while you can more than likely fit modern electronics in your dated cars, I probably wouldn't rely on them lasting very long without experiencing some broken parts and your biggest struggle will more than likely finding spares
That said, I wouldn't hesitate to drop in new equipment and run some practice laps just to knock the rust off your boots, but I would encourage you to consider buying a new kit in the near future if you want to be competitive.
Are you planning to get into stock racing or will you be running open mod?
As far as motors go, I'm partial to the Trinity Monster Max, but the Tekin Spec-R series are pretty strong too.
HobbyWing is my go to for ESC's
ProMatch Racing for my LiPo's
If you decide to buy a new kit, then I would narrow your choices between Tekno, XRay, Schumacher or Yokomo... I currently run Schumacher K2 but recently picked up a Tekno EB410.
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Add Associated in, they are still around and very competitive. Kyosho, too, but I don't know what they do for racing.
One thing I find funny is that old tricks seem to have been forgotten by most. But don't worry, once you get to the core of things, little has changed. It is just adjusting to brushless and lipos that will take a bit of time.
One thing I find funny is that old tricks seem to have been forgotten by most. But don't worry, once you get to the core of things, little has changed. It is just adjusting to brushless and lipos that will take a bit of time.
#8
Hello,
I'm new to the forum and getting back into R/C. I used to race back in the day, approx 15 years ago. I have a functional XXXS and XXX4. I would like to go racing again but I have questions, such as, will brushless setups fit in my ancient equipment? Should I look into a new radio, or will the old stuff be fine? Also, I used to use Novak stuff pretty exclusively as far as battery chargers and ESCs went, I see they are no longer so what company is a good comp? So basically I am totally new to something I used to do. So any help or resources I could get would be great.
Thanks alot.
I'm new to the forum and getting back into R/C. I used to race back in the day, approx 15 years ago. I have a functional XXXS and XXX4. I would like to go racing again but I have questions, such as, will brushless setups fit in my ancient equipment? Should I look into a new radio, or will the old stuff be fine? Also, I used to use Novak stuff pretty exclusively as far as battery chargers and ESCs went, I see they are no longer so what company is a good comp? So basically I am totally new to something I used to do. So any help or resources I could get would be great.
Thanks alot.
welcome back into the mix!
A LOT has changed over the past 15 years... while you can more than likely fit modern electronics in your dated cars, I probably wouldn't rely on them lasting very long without experiencing some broken parts and your biggest struggle will more than likely finding spares
That said, I wouldn't hesitate to drop in new equipment and run some practice laps just to knock the rust off your boots, but I would encourage you to consider buying a new kit in the near future if you want to be competitive.
Are you planning to get into stock racing or will you be running open mod?
As far as motors go, I'm partial to the Trinity Monster Max, but the Tekin Spec-R series are pretty strong too.
HobbyWing is my go to for ESC's
ProMatch Racing for my LiPo's
If you decide to buy a new kit, then I would narrow your choices between Tekno, XRay, Schumacher or Yokomo... I currently run Schumacher K2 but recently picked up a Tekno EB410.
A LOT has changed over the past 15 years... while you can more than likely fit modern electronics in your dated cars, I probably wouldn't rely on them lasting very long without experiencing some broken parts and your biggest struggle will more than likely finding spares
That said, I wouldn't hesitate to drop in new equipment and run some practice laps just to knock the rust off your boots, but I would encourage you to consider buying a new kit in the near future if you want to be competitive.
Are you planning to get into stock racing or will you be running open mod?
As far as motors go, I'm partial to the Trinity Monster Max, but the Tekin Spec-R series are pretty strong too.
HobbyWing is my go to for ESC's
ProMatch Racing for my LiPo's
If you decide to buy a new kit, then I would narrow your choices between Tekno, XRay, Schumacher or Yokomo... I currently run Schumacher K2 but recently picked up a Tekno EB410.
@ Stone_815: The only thing I can add to think about is the shape of LiPo batteries. If you buy some LiPo batteries to fit older platform, just keep in mind most new 1/10 platforms take advantage of shorty, square, and saddle packs to get the most out of your setup.