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Older Newbie... Traxxis Stampede 4x4 Too Much?

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Old 02-16-2018, 08:46 PM
  #1  
Zoodles95
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Default Older Newbie... Traxxis Stampede 4x4 Too Much?

I had a Radio Shack RC Jeep back in the day and used to have a blast driving it around our backyard. Fast forward a few decades and I find myself interested in these things again and would like to snag something which I could just charge and use. I have seen the Traxxis stuff when I have attended the Toronto Indy. Lately I have been hitting websites and Youtube videos and the Traxxis Stampede looks like it would be a hoot to own. We get 4 seasons where I live so I could use this thing all over the place.

However, some are recommending something 2WD for a first hobby level car (like the Traxxis Slash). Any other recommendations for something which should be fairly reliable and usable out of the box? Of course part of the fun seems to be the modifications and upgrades you can do to your cars. Ideally I would budget under $600 Canadian for the kit plus battery and charger.
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Old 02-17-2018, 03:50 AM
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Hi,
Vehicle choice depends on where and how you will be driving it and how much money you want to spend.
A monster truck platform like the Stampede has higher ground clearance so it can travel through taller grass, over rocks, sticks, etc... better than other vehicles that are lower to the ground like a short course truck (the Slash). However being taller also means the Stampede will have a tendency to roll over easier than a vehicle that is lower while the Slash tends to handle better.
If your goal is to race around a course then the Slash would be a better choice. If you just want to run around over almost any terrain then the Stampede would be better.

Other choices are 2wd or 4wd , brushed or brushless motorsr, and NiMh or LiPo batteries. 4wd, brushless, and Lipo are all more expensive choices You can upgrade and convert a brushed vehicle into brushless in the future with relative ease and you can always upgrade the battery system from NiMh to LiPo but it is very difficult to convert a 2wd to 4wd so that decision should be make up front.

2WD vehicles are a bit easier to maintain and lighter (less drivetrain parts) but they are less capable in certain terrain.
NiMh(Nickle Metal Hydride) batteries are what most ready-to-run vehicles will come with and do a good job of running it. The run times will vary depending on the packs capacity(rated in milli-amp hours(MAH) and average around 20 minutes. You can buy larger capacity batteries that could run the vehicle upwards of an hour based on driving conditions. These NiMh batteries typically live about 2-3 years and will need replacing after that time.
LiPo(Lithium Polymer) batteries have become more popular recently and are the battery of choice when using brushless motors as the tend to deliver the most power. When chosing LiPo you also need to buy a better charger that can properly charge and maintain lithium chemistry batteries. When properly charged and maintained a LiPo cattery can live for several years before needing replacement. Run times are again based on battery pack capacity .
Traxxas has made it a bit easier to properly charge these battery types by coming out with their smart chargers. Their batteries have a sensor in the plug and when plugged into their charger. The charger will automatically detect the pack and determine what chemistry and capacity it is and set the charger up for you so that you only have to press the start button.
Other chargers require you to set them up based on battery type.capacity , cell count, etc... Not extremely difficult but Traxxas makes it simple.......however you have to use their batteries and their chargers and that convenience costs a little more.

Traxxas also offers a learning mode on their vehicles so an inexperienced driver can learn to drive . Learning mode cuts the top speed by 50% slowing down the vehicle. Once you get better at driving you can put it back into normal mode raise the speed back to 100%

Based on your wants and budget I would recommend the Traxxas Stampede 4x4 VXL and a 2-cell (7.4v) Lipo pack and charger system.
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:57 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I want to buy something that I can pretty much buy and use right away. Then, I am all for upgrades and customization over time. Lurking here abd checking out videos and seems like rpm parts and new shock tower bolts are a good idea. So, battery and charger upgrades and then suspension components like from drove shafts etx to make the stampede a but more durable.

What are the main differences between the brushed abd brushless versions of the Stampede? Do most here think it is worth the extra $ up front to get the brushless version?
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:16 AM
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Between most any brushed or brushless comparison the main difference is speed. How fast do you want to go or be able to go. You can not push a brushed motor to do much more than stock. You can slow a brushless motor down but its hard to speed a brushed motor up without overheating.
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Old 02-17-2018, 09:57 AM
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I recently got into rc with my son. I got a 2WD slash for myself and a 2WD stampede for my son. I know that there are newer trucks out there but there are a ton of upgrades and parts for the slash and stampede. I live pretty far away from any hobby stores so I ordered a bunch of replacement parts but I haven’t needed them. They are really durable.
I havent run brushless but I think the main considerations with the speed of brushless is that they are harder to control for a beginner and you are more likely break parts. I am pretty happy with brushed but I think I will try upgrading to a brushless system this summer.
a 2s Lipo battery and charger is good to have. 5000mah. The run times are really long Generally my 6 year old loses interest before we even run through a charge. We have never even used the included niMh batteries.
My only regret was not going 4wd. Easier to control and can handle more terrain. We are driving in snow right now.
The training mode was great for my 6 year old son to learn. He’s getting prettying good at driving.
I actually find my sons stampede a bit more fun to drive than my slash. It is a good choice.
Stampede is a good place to start. If you are just looking to jump and bash the lower and wider Armma Granite or ECX ruckus seem like they would be good in the air.
Good luck!
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Old 02-17-2018, 10:17 AM
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Wow. Thanks for all the great replies. 4 x 4 seems like a no brainer and Stampede will allow me to drive through the grass abd rough stuff at the local parks.

training mode will allow my autistic brother in law to drive it without getting too frustrated

other than th extra speed are there any other upgrades in the brushless stampede? Extra strength in the drive shafts abd suspension or better cooking for the components?
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Old 02-17-2018, 12:39 PM
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Just checked the brushless has a self righting feature thats pretty neat different tires too. Does not look upon a quick look that theres much different as far as parts. Best thing to do is check the Traxxas website compare the two especially the parts manual (exploded view).

Brushed 4x4 https://traxxas.com/products/models/...4-1stampede4x4
Brushless 4x4 https://traxxas.com/products/models/...de-4x4-vxl-tsm
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Old 02-17-2018, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Zoodles95 View Post
What are the main differences between the brushed abd brushless versions of the Stampede? Do most here think it is worth the extra $ up front to get the brushless version?
A brushless motor will out live a brushed motor around 5-1 or better. You really have to work at it to kill a brushless motor and too much heat and over voltage will kill them quickly. Keep the gearing in check with what is in the manual and DO NOT run a 3-cell lipo and the motor will last many years.

Steel axles and aluminum bearing carriers and RPM A-arms are good upgrades in the future. I would stay away from aluminum A-arms....they look nice but certain things on these trucks need to flex a little and aluminum doesn't flex....it bends and stays bent.

Good luck and have fun with the new truck!
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:21 PM
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Zoodles95
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Wowsa... So much great info. Thanks...

So... I had a split shift today so I drove to the hobby shop and checked out some stuff. Got quoted for a new Stampede 4X4 VXL. Then I hit up the Canadian version of Craig's list and there are some sweet options on the used market. One Stampede has pretty much every upgrade you could think of (upgrades are worth more than the price of the truck). This one is less than the price of a new one and being used I save 13% tax.

Another option is a more stock Stampede 4X4 VXL and... A brushless Rustler! Probably more speed than I could ever handle. One thing nice about buying a pair is that if one breaks down I have a second option to use until I repair the other. I could also have my brother-in-law or wife use one while I drive the other. Not sure if this is a crazy idea or not. Same price for the pair as the super clean and totalled spec'd out Stampede.

Hmmm...
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by flyinwalenda View Post
A brushless motor will out live a brushed motor around 5-1 or better. You really have to work at it to kill a brushless motor and too much heat and over voltage will kill them quickly. Keep the gearing in check with what is in the manual and DO NOT run a 3-cell lipo and the motor will last many years.

Steel axles and aluminum bearing carriers and RPM A-arms are good upgrades in the future. I would stay away from aluminum A-arms....they look nice but certain things on these trucks need to flex a little and aluminum doesn't flex....it bends and stays bent.

Good luck and have fun with the new truck!
Thanks for the info. I used to be in medical sales and 2 pole or 4 pole motors were a thing and then some power chairs came out with brushless motors and it was a bit thing because the were not having to get the brushes replaced etc. From what I remember these chairs also went faster than the ones which came before them.

FWIW, I priced out the cost of a brushless motor and just the motor would cost more than the difference in cost between the brushed Stampede and the brushless VXL.
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Old 02-18-2018, 12:07 AM
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If you can afford it go all out! Be careful though. You start eyeing more and more cars. Just preordered my next one! Starting to be an expensive hobby! Haha!
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Old 02-18-2018, 05:15 AM
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True that... My eye is still on the Stampede 4x4 Brushless but I haw to say watching videos of Rustlers running down beaches and flying around got me pondering. Tomorrow is a stat holiday where I live so I am.hoping to go look at both options. Even the package deal seems to have some rpm parts on them from my newbie eyes.
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Old 02-18-2018, 07:24 PM
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Oops... Turns out the combo deal is for a Stampede 2WD and the crazy Brushless Rustler. As much fun as the Rustler looks I think I will probably limit myself to the mint, upgraded Stampede. I am not ruling out letting this hobby take me over the edge though.
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Old 02-19-2018, 02:35 PM
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Okay got the 'Pede today, Will post pictures when I can (silly forum software will not allow me to post pictures yet).

MIP axles are already bugging me. Not a fan of the design. One of the pins holding on the hoke that goes over the spindle came off under low speed. I guess this system requires a lot of double checking tightness and making sure there is locktite. Found everything except the pin of whatever. Got a bit of a discount to make up for this.

I am trying to remove the spindle shaft from the right rear so that I can putter around the house in 3wd and play a bit with it. Got the wheel off etc. However, I cannot remove the spindle shaft with the yoke. I can see the pin and I think I need to slightly move the hex screw? Gah.

Will post pictures when I can. Thing is really nice and I am already eyeing up a few goodies. Paid much less than new and got hundreds of dollars in upgrades with the unit. Hard to remove something when you are new and did not install the system in the first place.
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Old 02-19-2018, 03:37 PM
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Okay... So here is the limping Stampede:

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On the test drive something made a weird noise. Then I am checking out the truck and saw something amiss with the right rear output shaft:
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Found these 2 parts trying to hide in the parking lot:
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So, my plan is to remove the axle completely until I can get the parts I need. This way I can run it in 3WD. I just want to put around the house and perhaps the driveway in training mode for now. So, I removed the rear wheel etc.
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And now I am stuck. I cannot remove this splined shaft. From what I can see there is a pin inside the yoke. From what I could make out from some youtube videos when installing these MIP kits the pin goes in and then you tighten the hex screw a bit. Okay but how do I remove it?
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How to get this yoke off? Once I do I can put the wheel back on and I can gently play with the thing around the house. If I leave the shaft on it is going to rough up the lower arm:
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The quality of the MIP driveshafts seems really good. However, if they are able to come apart so easily and parts get lost then I question if there is a better designed alternative? I need to order some parts now and I need to look up what they are.

Just kind of frustrated that this truck is already sidelined. Time to start buying parts.
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Old 02-19-2018, 04:02 PM
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You bought a used truck?

All metal to metal fasteners need to have Loctite applied and allowed to dry before using. Otherwise the bolts and grub screws will come flying out .
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Old 02-19-2018, 04:31 PM
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I will get it sorted. Once I have it dialed in the fun will start. Right now I am going to get this darned spindle shaft off one way or another.

The seller is willing to fix it for me. He has more MIP parts. Tomorrow I am snagging some blue locktite. The old owner has an XMas and some other RCs so I think this Stampede was sitting a long time. I will loosen and locktite the parts I need to.
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Old 02-19-2018, 04:48 PM
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If the owner never used thread-loc on the axles then anything else he did to the truck would be suspect.
Hope you didn't pay too much for this.

If you want to remove the half-shaft then remove the wheel hex from the axle(refer to the drawing) , Pull the lower a-arm pin and then slide the spindle out of the bearing carrier. Bend the half-shaft at the joint so you can remove the grub screw and then the pin will come out and the shaft can be removed. Then re-install the spindle back into the bearing carrier and reassemble everything else.
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Old 02-19-2018, 05:03 PM
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Thanks for the tips/instructions Brian. The seller seems willing to meet up with me tonight to fix it. Oddly enough the grub screw seems super stiff (probably ample lock tite there). Just the same I will use the truck very gently until I can check out all of the screws and such that require locktite.

I did get a really good deal. 2 years old and a lot of aftermarket parts in the truck. I just need to get it back to 100% and go through it well.

Some more pics to show how it should look:
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It has newish Proline trenchers for tires, Proline powerstroke shocks, MIP front and rear driveshafts, Golden Horizons front and rear A arms etc. I can see adding a blue RPM front bumper and some other stuff. A lot of you guys seem to be running the 17mm hubs. Not sure what the advantages are there.

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Old 02-19-2018, 09:51 PM
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So...

Met with the seller and we repaired the rear diff (he had extra MIP parts from a Slash he had built previously). I was so happy. He got in his truck and drove away and I decided to start driving the Stampede around the parking lot. We had met at a coin car wash. So... yours truly instead of driving home and reading the owner's manual and setting the truck to learner mode...

Sigh... I ended up driving the poor thing head on into one of the concrete pillars which had vacuums mounted on it... At full speed! Truck still operational. However... Check out the damage I did...

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At the very least it looks like I need:
-New chassis (Traxxas part# 6722)
-New Front Bulkheat (Traxxas part#6830)

Anything else you guys think I might need?

I feel so lousy about hurting the poor truck. I seem to have to learn my lessons the hard way. One nicety about this though is that although we currently live in a "throw away " society it is actually pretty cool that this truck can be repaired and rebuilt at will.

Ironically enough the MIPs driveshafts survived the collision as did all of the other aftermarket parts. Should I try to find some aftermarket aluminum chassis?
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Old 02-20-2018, 05:05 AM
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Why are you running a 3-cell lipo in that truck ? That is WAY too much power for you even in learning mode. If you keep running 3-cell batteries get prepared to keep repairing the truck on a very regular basis .
As recommended earlier you should be running a 2-cell pack.

Running in cold weather will break parts quickly as well.

You have a big job now getting that frame replaced. Get a good RC tool kit and don't get an aluminum frame.
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:32 PM
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Okay... Truck is pretty much torn down now. Rear end is pretty much in one piece but the front end is going to be a headache since I need to disassemble it to replace the front bulkhead.

Here is what was a functional truck yesterday:
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If the front bulkhead had not of broken this would be a much easier project. Sigh...
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The chassis is really messed up:
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As you can see there are bits of more damaged parts as well. The impact dislodged the cases for the receiver and servo etc causing some damage to the cases. Gah!

Something amiss with this center driveshaft too! Add it to the list:
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I need:

Center Driveshaft, Traxxas Part # 6755
Chassis, Traxxas Part # 6722
Front Bulkhead, Traxxas Part # 6830
Receiver Box With Seals, Traxxas Part# 3628
Servo Case with gaskets, Traxxas Part# 2074
RPM case for 3350 ESC, RPM Part# 70602


I think that will do it. Is there anything I might have missed?

In the interim while I source parts I am either going to snag another VXL or a brushed 4X4 Stampede. Once the Crash Bandicoot version is back on the road I will have a pair of trucks to use with my wife and my autistic brother-in-law when he visits. Either way I am in the market for a 2S battery to drive slower. Any recommendations for 2S batteries?

My current charger is a Traxxis 2933.

Last edited by Zoodles95; 02-20-2018 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 02-20-2018, 10:01 PM
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dammmm,,,, 100 points for effort.... haha. looks like it was fun

I think u are on the right track, 3s is problematic... and looks like u have the parts under control.

I was thinking,,, a big contributor to crashes is a slow steering servo.... they just cant change direction fast enough when going fast due to the gyroscopic effect from the wheels....

the stock 2056 servo is rated at 6.0V: 80.00 oz-in (5.76 kg-cm)6.0V: 0.23 sec/60 and thats a bit weak for the big wheels and a bit slow for precision driving

for about $25-30 u could upgrade to something thats twice as fast and depending on the model up to 3 times the torque.

Here are the ones im referring to. and reliability wise they seem great, ive got 2 (BMS-616DMG) that have been going strong for over 4 years

621
Torque At 6.0V: 7.2kg/cm , 109 oz/in
Speed At 6.0V: 0.10 sec / 60 at no load

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/bms-621d...sec-46-5g.html

616
Torque At 6.0V: 10.2kg/cm , 136 oz/in
Speed At 6.0V: 0.12 sec / 60 at no load

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/bms-616d...sec-46-5g.html

660
Torque at 6.0V: 14.2kg/cm , 190 oz/in
Speed at 6.0V: 0.17 sec / 60 at no load

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/bms-660d...17sec-52g.html

Last edited by phmaximus; 02-20-2018 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 02-20-2018, 10:06 PM
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here ya go...to show how old mine is, this is the old build thread from 2013 and its still going strong.... pitty about the thread, all the pics are long gone
Project Slash
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Old 02-20-2018, 10:09 PM
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Thanks phmaximus,

I'm not adverse to upgrading some parts. An upgraded steering servo might be an interesting idea. I will look into that as an option to replacing the casing on the original servo.

Any well regarded 2S batteries for the VXL?

Good tool kits? It was a pain using the included little wrenches. I'll bet some longer handled drivers with magnetic tips would be a lot less of a headache to use.

BTW... Full props to Traxxas for having exploded diagrams so easily available on their website. I guess there is some self interest there as well because they can sell more parts!
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