intheflesh

Hi everyone, I've been lurking on this forum for the last few weeks after I dug out my RC10T that my dad and I build some 20+ years ago. (I'm 35 now) My dad passed away a few years back, and this truck was sitting on his work bench when we were cleaning out his house. We never finished it; there was something wrong with the differential/transmission that we couldn't figure out. So it sat for all those years. So I brought it to my house, but it sat for a year or so. Last fall I decided to rebuild the transmission to see if I could get it running. The rebuild was a success, and the truck sat over the winter. A few weeks ago I decided to take it out for literally the first time. Oh my god, I felt like a kid again. It was a good feeling to finally run this truck that my dad and I started all these years ago. It has old electronics, and old mechanical speed control, the worst paint job you have every seen. I toyed with the idea of "modernizing" it, but it think I want to leave it exactly as we built it. It uses a Futaba Atack SR transmitter/receiver, an old Reedy stock brushed motor, stock gears. I did end up buying a B6 AC charger and a few NiMH 3600 mAh batteries. Noob question, is there anything special I need to do going from NiCd to NiMH?

With this introduction out of the way, I have an itch for a new build. My old RC10T has literally on been used once, and there's some sentimental value behind it, so I think it may live the rest of its life on display. I have noticed that the hobby has seen a little bit of technological advances since the early 90s lol. I'm trying to put together a 'back yard basher' build for

rgburrill

NiMh will drop in directly for the NiCd. The same is NOT true for LiPos so stick with the NiMhs.

bill_delong

There are many brands of LiPo's that are designed to be a direct fit with the same shape/size as NiCd/NiMh packs, here is just one of many examples available across the net:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawada-RC-L...C/192400566697

Some things to consider when switching battery chemistry from Nickle to Lithium:

1) Use an appropriate LiPo charger
2) Enable LVC on your ESC or add an LVA
3) Some higher C rated packs can produce significantly more power with an increase as much as 5mph faster simply by switching to LiPo, which can be fun, but check temps and re-gear appropriately with the following limits:

Battery < 120°F
ESC < 140°F
Motor < 160°F

Anytime you modify stock setup, you always want to check temps, invest in a temp gun if you don't already have one.

I use this one here:
https://www.harborfreight.com/non-co...ter-93983.html

intheflesh

For my old RC10T, I am just going to run NiMH batteries; not switching to LiPo.

When I start my new build, I will definitely be taking the LiPo route. I've been keeping my eye out in eBay for a used RC10B rolling chassis, but then I found an HB racing D612 kit for $179. I like that price and should help keep me on budget. I've been doing some research and it seems that replacement parts are somewhat of an issue?

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

I assume you mean D812? Yes, you will have a bit of a problem finding parts, as they are already on the D817 chassis. That being said though, is an excellent price for a 1/8 buggy kit. I'd try it, and push comes to shove, you'd have to "modify" a few parts to make it work if it breaks.

intheflesh

D612... I can't post the Link, but it is Ebay item 132296858033

I ended up buying a TLR 22 3.0 roller on eBay, came with a few bodies, spare parts, and looks really clean from the pics. Should be here this weekend. I am also bidding on a really clean 22 2.0 roller; my fiance wants me to build her one, ha!.

Before I bough the TLR roller, I put my name on the list for a RC10B6.1D. I received an email yesterday that my allocation is available, and I have until today to claim it. I'm on the fence, but in the end I'll probably get it.

So, I have so far: A TRL 22 3.0, potentially a TRL 22 2.0, a Reedy 540 M3 Spec 17.5T, a Maclan MMR Team Spec 17.5T (bought both of these on a whim for relatively cheap) Not sure which motor is going in which car yet.

Gearing questions:
The 3.0 comes with a 78 spur/34 pinion. This should give a final drive close to 5.6 (internal ratio 2.43). I am still trying to wrap my head around this gearing thing. So longer gears give you less acceleration, more top end, but is harder on the engine. Shorter gears give you more acceleration, less top end and is easier on the motor (right?) I am not interested in racing; I do want a quick little buggy that I can take out for 20 minutes+ with out worrying about things over heating. Am I okay with the 78/34 set up for my purposes?

ESC questions:
I need ESCs for both motors. I know I need brushless, sensored ESCs for both. What amp rating? I am trying to keep on a budget here, and I am not racing. just back yard bashing. I was thinking of going with the Hobbywing XERUN XR10 Juststock. I know it is a zero timing ESC. I don't think that is a feature I really need. Rated for 60A, and has a 13.5T motor limit on a 2s Lipo. Quite honestly, this ESC thing is Greek to me. My only other R/C has a mechanical arm/resistor speed controller. lol. (Cost here ~$57)

Other electronics:
Transmitter: Futaba 3pv. I think this is a good balance of budget and performance. (still need)
Receiver:Futaba R203GF ~ $109 for Transmitter and receiver combo
Servo: any reason I can't go budget here? Thinking Spectrum S6170 for ~$25
Battery: Either 2S Lipo or 6 cel NiMH (already have). may go Lipo, but I'm honestly nervous about battery charging.

So that's my plan. Comments, critiques, criticisms greatly appreciated. Especially if you think I am wasting money in certain categories, or if I should allocate more of my budget to others.

So based on everything I have listed here, my cost would be about $390 in total for the Losi 22 3.0, and about $350 for the 2.0. Which isn't too bad methinks.

4theoryj

i found theze battery on ebay

gtl 2300mah lithium 2/3a verse the old 5 6 pack nihm and weight ok