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official smartech buggy thread

Old 07-25-2005, 01:49 PM
  #51  
2fast2slow
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Yeah, the gears are cheap, I strip them the after about 20 minutes, so I just moved the engine over some, so now it is fine. But I can't do any jumps because the first day I got the car( 2 days ago) i broke that servo saver,so I got a new one, and the dumb lady said that I did not need a srew to hold the servo saver down, so I went out and tested, and while driving, the new servo saver come of at ful speed, so I have not brakes to slow it down, ands then BOOM , I ran into a crub, and parts went flying, so after about 30 minutes of finding part, i put what i can together, and then found a srew for the servo saver, and srew it in. And now it works fine but I need a new veering arm.
Old 07-26-2005, 07:15 AM
  #52  
sk88smooth
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Hello Again Everyone!

Well now I'm running into problems since I've been jumping. Of course my buggy bottoms out because I haven't gotten the new shocks yet, but every time the thing lands it melts a clutch! I've run out of clutch now sadly, so she'll be in commission for a while! I think this can be solved by replacing the clutch bell... The weird thing is (and hopefully someone can clarify this for me) is that the stock clutch had holes that went all the way through it, and the replacement ones only go about half way through...? I took out the little lock washer in order to compensate...

Here is my other problem... I cannot get my buggy to get up to high RPMS! I thought it was the fuel, but now I'm running Traxxas 20% top fuel in her, and she's still not going. My top speed is probably only around 30mph. I've tried tuning lean and rich all quarter turn changes, and no success. I checked the carb and when it is open full throddle, it is completely open, so that isn't the cause. (I've allready run about 8 tanks through as well).

I need you experts out there to help me out .

Thanks everyone!

-Kory

Old 07-29-2005, 05:33 AM
  #53  
chocyman
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Folks,

Sorry I havent answered some mails, been away for a few weeks on hols, so havent been naywhere near a computer for a while...was great!

Anyhow, sk88smooth...

No idea about the clutch, I substituted the smartech one with a Kyosho one as it is made of much better material. All I can report is that with the .18 engine (much more power and torque than the stock .15), no clutch melting or ANY problems with it at all. GOT to be a good thing. Id suggest the way which the cluch shoes came is the correct way. If the replacement clutch doesnt have holes all the way through, then Id drill them through, leaving out a nut or a shim is not a good idea in my opinion.

As for the engine...sure there are loads of explanations, but now your run in and using higher nitro fuel, you will possibly need to richen up the mixture by as much as 3/4 of a turn(maybe more).
Listen carefully to what the engine is doing at full throttle, is it bogging (sort of spluttering and really sluggish to rev), or does it rev OK up to a point, then seem to 'stall'??
If its the first, then its too rich. If its the latter, then its too lean, richen it up before you do any more runs.
Always take it back to factory default as a safe place to start.
Its tough to give advise, but a guy from my LHS told me this, tune the HSN first. Get the engine warm and up to running temp, then do a few fast runs at full throttle. Keep richening the HSN until it runs great at full throttle (doesnt bog or run out of puff).When it runs great at full throttle, but maybe bogs when accelerating, just tweak the LSN in a little (lean it out), then test a full throttle run again... keep going until it accelerates well, and doesnt run out of puff at full throttle. Leaning it out too far at full blat is a very bad thing and can cause the engine to overheat and seize.
You then just have to tweak from time to time if the engines getting too hot or different weather conditions.
In my opinion, your ear and listening to what the engine is doing is by far the best way to tune and engine in my opinion.

Hope it helps and if not, give us some more info and we can maybe work it out.

Cheers
Old 07-29-2005, 07:59 AM
  #54  
sk88smooth
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Great!!! I'll try that out this afternoon when I get home from work . Thanks a ton Chocy... I appreciate your help greatly, and it's glad to have you back!
Old 08-01-2005, 07:03 AM
  #55  
sk88smooth
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Alllrighty! Well Chocy, once again your advice was great. I richened the high speed and leaned the low speed about 4 turns!!! Wow did that make a difference. Before I could barely run the buggy through short grass. Now it tears it up with all 4 wheels. I think I might be greedy, but I still want more power!!! If I have enough dough after I go back to college and buy books, I'll definitely buy the OS MAX CV-R .18 (which is the direct replacement for the two speed version of the winner sport for those that may be interested!). I also took her back to the jumps and melted the last clutch I HAD LEFT! I'm gonna run to the LHS and buy a different clutch that will hopefully replace this one heh.

Thanks again m8.

-Kory
Old 08-05-2005, 03:57 AM
  #56  
vanguard27
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Hi im new here and wondering if anyone can help me I brought a brand new smartech vanguard .27 off ebay, to start with its got heaps of power, my bro has a rex x and this kills it. although im still running it in ive started to give it a bit more of a go each time, and when i do the idle seems to come up high and sounds very lean so i just shut it off as im worried about the motor, is this a tuning prob and can any one give me some tips about it, Thanks.
Old 08-07-2005, 07:28 AM
  #57  
chocyman
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

R.I.P my Winner 3 []

I was giving mine heaps today in a local car park, weaving in and out of the bollards and generally having great fun..
I gave it full throttle coming out of a corner, it fishtailed, so I corrected, it snapped back, i corrected and then it hit a curb edge full whack [X(]...bugger
The damage report is:-
Broken fuel tank
Shattered bodyshell
Bent chassis
Broken servo saver
Bent drive shaft and suspension pin

Not a pretty sight..... It was travelling not far off top whack (which I guesstimate at around the 60K mark with the .18 OS engine running on 15% nitro), so I think I got off fairly lightly.
I can straighten the chassis plate (if I cant get a new one), may even make one out of stronger, thicker ally, and straighten the drive shaft and suspension arms, but the other stuff I need to order from somewhere.
Bummed, as I also totalled my Traxxas as well into a bollard.
Not a good day, and goes to show I need to improve my driving skills.
All 3 of my cars are out of action.....only a week ago all 3 were up and running perfectly..so quickly it can change
Ah well....I`ll sort it out and get it back on the road as soon as I can...

Old 08-07-2005, 11:38 AM
  #58  
Mr Plow
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Hi I'm quite new to Nitro RC cars as you will soon know judging on the question I'm going to ask. I have a Condor Pro, I have just received some new clutch shoes. I'm not quite sure where to put the spring, does it just hook over the 2 rods coming out of the fly wheel or does it go within the grove on the clutch shoes?

These are the clutch shoes http://www.********.co.uk/products.p...6cee6ed6790afb

Thanks
Old 08-08-2005, 10:26 AM
  #59  
sk88smooth
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Poor Chocy! You can order all of the new parts off of excelhobby.com or you can try the other site in Japan (thats a lot closer than US). If you can't find it let me know I'll look i up for you! I bought the CV-R OS MAX .18 engine... I didn't realize but I recieved it on Saturday! I'm going to try to give it a run this evening... it should fly! . two speed with the .18 engine ohh man!! I hope you can fix your winner soon!!! I feel your pain, next time stay away from those curbs .
Old 08-08-2005, 10:28 AM
  #60  
sk88smooth
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

There shoudl be a rut in the shoes all you need to do is first hook it around one of the spring and hook the two little hooks together on the end of the spring. Then squeeze the second clutch shoe in, fitting the spring in the rut. Once they are alligned perfect in a circle, snap them into the appropriate place! Good luck!
Old 08-08-2005, 02:31 PM
  #61  
2fast2slow
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Hey everyone.

My Smartech Winner 3 is coming alive. I have just put the new Traxxas servo in for the steering so it should turn better. I just took my Duratrax .18 (Same as the O.S.) engine up to my LHS so they can put the new pull start on it. Also, I put new carbon brakes on it, and some new Shocks.

I sorry to hear about your acciented, but keep your head. I remember when I first got my Winner 3 and the Servo Saver broke for the trottle. So I took it up to my LHS and got a new one, but for got to put the srew in. And at top speed it came off at the parking lot, and I tryed the go under a moving car( since in was a one way street) and my right tire hit the car's wheel and i came off, Than is dragg for another 50 feet and than run into a crub at about 45 mph. And parts started to fly. So after a day of madness I just got the part that need to be replace and bend back parts the I could

So I hope to get so pictures when i'm done.
Old 08-08-2005, 10:23 PM
  #62  
chocyman
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Getting there,

Stripped the buggy down last night, wasnt pretty, but found some stuff that needed looking at as well so wasnt a total loss.
The chassis is is real bad shape, a big 'V' crease across the width of it. With all wheels sort of on the ground, the V nearly touches the floor. New chassis needed! Also notices the engine mount plate has bent as well. Would appear the engine has moved forwards in the impact and bent the plate. Ah well, they are the cheapest of what I have to fix.
The main reason for the chassis damage is that I hit the curb flat on, so alot of the impact was absorbed by the front bumper (not broken!). Front bumper is mounted to the front diff, front diff is mounted to the chassis plate. I can only guess the shock travelled through to the chassis plate and bent it.
The fuel tank cracked because of the stiffness of the mounting to the chassis. Im going to mount the new tank on 5mm fuel pipe to buffer the tank from chassis movement. Im also going to slightly widen the mounting holes to allow a small movement of the fuel tank to stop it cracking in an accident.
Ive also noticed the front drive shaft(s) and drive cups (wheel end) are worn (nothing to do with the accident). At full lock the outer edge of the drive cups are rubbing on the drive shaft, and so wearing both away. Some grease may ease this problem, but I`ll need to look into it more to see if i can fix this as sooner or later it will wear out the shaft and/or the drive cup.
Ive stripped down the diffs and all look in top condition, so the OS power is being handled well by the internal gearing. Liberal use of moly grease and ball bearings i think has helped here.
Found another strange breakage as well last night. The force of the impact has caused the 4 x AA batteries in the car to move forward with such force that theyve shot out the end of the battery box (the actual holder, not the outer box) and so I need a new battery box and switch unit. Nothing I can do there except maybe wrap a cable tie around them to stop them breaking the box.
Amazingly enough, none of the suspension components are damaged (apart from a slightly bent front suspension axle). Bummer as I ordered arms and knuckles as spares. They were the only thing to NOT break!!

Waiting for some info on Excelhobby, as they seem to have a good range and most things in stock. If anyone can help with a contact e-mail or some way of just confirming that they can deliver to Oz and have the things they say they have, id really appreciate it. The e-mail ([email protected]) bounces back, so I`ll need another contact if there is one.

Cheers
Old 08-09-2005, 08:13 AM
  #63  
sk88smooth
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Chochy,

Tel: (516) 728-2883 Fax: (516) 625-5784

That is the contact info for Excel. If you want I can call them since your in AUS, ( I get free long distance through my good ole broadband phone). Let me know exactly what you want me to ask them!
Old 08-09-2005, 06:40 PM
  #64  
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

hehehe ive just bought a smartec buggy and i love it i think its just me coz ive broke bits of it already hehe. Ive lost a pin out of the rear drive shaft and smashed the rear differential/gear box its got an aluminum upper and lower deck and a size 12 engine, 75cc tank, carbonfibre break disc. i was just wondering where could i get a manual for 1 of these? i got the car off ebay (used) so it didnt come with one.






Old 08-09-2005, 08:29 PM
  #65  
chocyman
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Pm sent....really appreciate your help!
Old 08-11-2005, 02:52 AM
  #66  
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

does any1 know where i can get a manula for 1 of theses, preferably free, Thanks.
Old 08-13-2005, 09:05 PM
  #67  
smith01
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread



I've got a smartech that should be here next week. So is it true that I can use other brands parts to switch out (HPI, Traxxas, Kyosho)? What about OFNA and XTM? I assume I will be able to uprade those parts as well. Will I be alright as long as use the same scale size and same motor size? I'm very new and am learning a lot from you guys and would appreciate any help.
Old 08-14-2005, 09:22 PM
  #68  
chocyman
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Try this link to some of the manual pages. May help you a little (was posted in the smartech thread in onroad cars_
http://www.hobby-estore.com/10343-ga...y-mannual.html
Old 08-14-2005, 10:12 PM
  #69  
smith01
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Thanks Chocy,

That's the best option I've seen so far. But I still haven't seen upgrades made for Smartech. Will HPI, Traxxas, and Kyosho hop ups work on the smartech?
Old 08-15-2005, 04:11 AM
  #70  
chocyman
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

I havent seen any 'official' Smartech upgrades, although some do appear on Ebay from time to time.
The general rule of thumb with these Smartechs is to give it a go. No-one really knows what will and what wont fit. I have the opinion that if I want it to fit, then I`ll make it fit...somehow.
Boils down to time vs money vs handyman skills.
Id recommend getting to know your local hobby shop, taking the buggy down there and seeing what might fit.

So far, i have to report that the parts I thought Id break, havent broken, and the parts I never thought Id break...ive broken.
Taken my own advice though and ordered 2 of all the parts Ive replaced.
Main things ive replaced are the shocks/springs and radio gear. They are all pretty average out of the box, and so well worth the change to something better. Engine is another area you may consider upgrading (check some of the previous topics and threads).

Hope it helps.

Old 08-18-2005, 08:33 PM
  #71  
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Less than 7 days after I ordered some spares from Excelhobby, they arrive here in Australia!.
Excellent postage and service.

Be warned though, they dont send confimation e-mails, nothing to let you know they are processing the order...the parts just turn up...
BUT...theyve processed and sent the parts much quicker than Raidentech ,although Raidentech are a more'professional' looking outfit/website.

Just letting people know if they wanted spares and were unsure about Excelhobby.

Cheers
Old 08-23-2005, 09:10 PM
  #72  
chocyman
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Back in business....

Chassis and fuel tanks arrived from Raidentech yesterday, and spent an evening building it back up.
Im taking a trip to the hobby store today to buy some paint for the new body shell, and I need a few screws and C-clips as theyve been bent or knocked off in the accident.
Good thing was the engine fired up straight away (used some after run oil) and all seems nice and straight and little or no bad noises.
Ive made a little mod to the drive shafts. I read on another thread to use a small slither of fuel tude in the drive cups to take up slack in the drive train. A small 1mm slither just takes up the slack and quietens the whole drive down alot. Also means theres a bit of give in the drive as well as the rubber tube compresses easily. Guess its like some of the other makes that have O-rings in the drive cups.
Anyone have any ideas what to use as CV boot covers? maybe something like heat shrink or rubber tubing perhaps? Means all the grit and crap can be kept out of the drive cups and joints, hopefully giving them a longer life.


Old 08-24-2005, 06:13 AM
  #73  
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

good idea chocyman But could you take some pics of where to put the rubber bit, coz after reading ur post (nd my slow head) i cannot work out where u mean (to put the rubber ring) :P
Old 08-24-2005, 06:59 PM
  #74  
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

hi im new to nitro rc and im having trouble with my smartech speedy tiger when ever i gun it will just die and my needle doesnt seem to do much so any help would be much thanks... oh and if anyone is looking for a good smartech site with cheap pirces for parts and accesories the link is http://www.raidentech.com/smsptisppa.html
Old 08-24-2005, 07:48 PM
  #75  
chocyman
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Default RE: official smartech buggy thread

Hopefully the little sketch ive done explains the drive shaft mod.
Dont think theres any performance gains, it does mean the driveshaft cant move as much in the cups, but I havent had a chance to test and confirm that this is a good mod to make.

zachanafien :-
There are loads of threads already about tuning the engine (Im assuming its the 15CXP, the one with the black cooling head), but to make it short and sweet. The engines a git to tune, but can be done with time and patience. Options are to replace the carbie with an OS10E which will help it tune and stay in tune easier or swap the engine out and get something better.
Rule of thumb 2.5 - 3.0 turns (depending on fuel nitro %) out on the HSN and 1.5 out on the LSN should rougly see you standard settings.
If the engine stalls when you open the throttle, and stalls like a spluttery stall, then the LSN is too rich, screw it in 1/16th clockwise and try again until the engine picks up and runs OK (not perfect as you`ll need to tweak it again). If it stalls by revving really quickly then stalling, its way too lean and open the LSN 1/8th anti-clockwise. Once you are able to pull away without stalling, get the engine up to running temp, and then give it a nice straight run on a road or concrete surface. If at near or at WOT it stalls, richen the HSN up 1/16th anti-clockwise and do anthother run. keep going until at WOT (wide open throttle) it runs smoothly without struggling for power.
Once youve done this, idle and try accelerating from stop. If it splutters then lean out the LSN 1/16th of a turn clockwise. try again. keep going until it pulls away smoothly and runs at WOT well. I then richen it 1/16th just to make sure its not too lean just in case (its better to be slightly rich than lean).

Anyway..hope it helps
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