j-boy

Someone congratulate me. It took a while but I got the thing started. I was beginning to think that the hobby store guy had some kind of personal vindetta! I put 3 in 1 oil in my nitro engine like he said and I was beginning to think that thats why I couldn't start my new himoto cyclone. Silly me. It was mostly because I don't know squatt about this thing! I blistered my fingers yanking on the pullstarter. I was getting frustrated so I took a break and browsed the forums looking for help. I read something about normal weather conditions and decided that maybe it's too cold today to start this thing. So I took a hair dryer to my engine. Although I'm not positive that warming the engine was what allowed it to start, I can say this. After fiddling with that thing for a couple of hours and getting nothing but a blister on my finger, I Just about jumped out of my skin when it finally took off. I was working on the break in and I hope I didn't hurt my engine. The throttle had been open way to wide when It finally decided to run. I panicked and pinched the fuel line, which caused the engine to rev even higher before it died. stupid.........stupid.........stupid. OH well I cant really tell that it did any damage for sure and as soon as I figure out how to get a descent idle speed going that wont kill my engine I'll finish breaking it in. Couple of quick questions : How many adjustment screws am I supposed to have on an .18 vertex engine? My manual( which is really just a bad joke) makes it look like there are three but all I can find is the needle valve and the idle adjustment screw. Is the idle adjustment screw the same thing as an idle mixture screw? also I would like to know if my failsafe device is supposed to kill my engine when it applies the breaks or is it just cutting the air off from the intake because it's adjusted wrong?

snowbl!nd

Bravo.

"How many adjustment screws am I supposed to have on an .18 vertex engine?"

Should be three. There is probably one located on the end of the carb (next to the carb lever which opens/closes the carb).

"is the idle adjustment screw the same thing as an idle mixture screw?"

No, the idle adjustment screw changes the minimum carb opening at idle/brake (so the car doesn't stall), whilst the idle mixture screw changes the ratio of fuel/air that the engine recieves at idle/low speeds.

"also I would like to know if my failsafe device is supposed to kill my engine when it applies the breaks"

No, the failsafe is there to activate the brake when signal is lost etc. It will also close the carb (effectively making the car idle) so that the engine does not rev and enginge the clutch. If it is cutting the engine out then the idle adjustment screw setting is incorrect (screw clockwise a bit) and is allowing the carb to close completely at idle/brake.

j-boy

thanks for the advice. I'd like to say that I've torn up my yard with the car but my break in procedure keeps going downhill fast. Is the idle adjustment screw the one that looks like it's holding the throttle lever on? Or is it the screw that sticks out at an odd angle just below the air intake where the air filter attaches. The only adjustment that seems to do anything to my engine is the needle valve. I'm afraid that I'm running way to lean because I get very little smoke out of the exhaust and yet it seems to be throwing most of the fuel out the exhaust. The thing doesn't like for me to make hardly any adjustments while its running. If I try to mess with anything but the throttle servo the engine dies. I have to start it with the throttle fairly open and then move the servo to idle position manually. If I turn the electrical system on the fail safe inevitably cuts the motor off sooner or later. I know a little bit about mechanics so I know that these "adjustments" have to be made in small increments but I'm afraid that I've messed with all three of them so much that I'll never get back to the original positions. Is there a way to find out factory settings for this? Also I read on the forum that air-tool oil is a good substitute for after run oil. Thats another way of saying pneumatic oil right? Somebody tell me if Im wrong before I put this stuff in! I refuse to be discouraged and I'm gonna run this car tomarrow running right or not! I just hope I'ts not the shortest lived .18 in history. I said before that my manual is a joke. Do they make a Chilton on these things?

snowbl!nd

The idle mixture needle is usually the screw which appears (although it isn't really) to hold the carb lever in place, whilst the idle adjustment screw is the one which comes out at an odd angle from the carb - it may also have a small spring on it if you are unsure.

"I'm afraid that I'm running way to lean because I get very little smoke out of the exhaust and yet it seems to be throwing most of the fuel out the exhaust."

Luckily, that sounds as if you are runing too rich rather than too lean. (although too rich can also damage engines) If the engine does not get up to temperature (due to running rich) then most of the fuel will remain unburnt and will be spat out of the exhaust. You want to slowly try leaning the needles until the engine will run consistantly. The low speed needle regulates the fuel the engine recieves at idle and medium throttle, whilst the main/high speed needle regulated the fuel throughout the ENTIRE throttle range. They will both have to be adjusted properly to allow the engine to run correctly.

"If I turn the electrical system on the fail safe inevitably cuts the motor off sooner or later."

You need to sort the throtte linkages and idle adjustment screw then to prevent this from occuring. Do this with the electronics on, but without the engine running. Make sure that when the Tx is at neutral, that the carb opening is about .5-1mm open, and does not close any more when brake is applied. Use the idle adjustment screw to set the minimum carb opening. Then ensure that the carb opens fully when you apply full throttle on the Tx. Doing this will make things much easier, and should prevent the engine from cutting out (as often...)

I don't know any factory settings, but try looking on the manufacurers site or try searching here - i'm sure someone knows.

I think pneumatic oil should be ok to put in your engine, but you don't need to use ANY oil unless you are not intending running your engine for a few weeks. It's only use is to prevent rusing inside the engine, so you don't need to use oil after every run (it shouldn't really be called "after run oil" at all...)

Oh, and not a clue what a "Chilton" is...

j-boy

The reference to a "Chilton" was a bad joke. An automotive Chilton can be purchased for just about any type of "real" vehicle. I own one that covers my Chevy truck and one for my wifes Jeep Cherokee. They're real handy for the "to poor to pay a professional to fix it" guys like me. Thanks for the tips. I' m goin back in. Wish me luck!

schekibop

I need to adjust mine, the info will help out.

gpucando3d

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i have just bought a hpi rs4 off rcu and i cant get it to start and when i do it only runs for around 5 secs.,what is a good start point with the needle,i have no clue where it should be? how many turns in or out should it be?i have been pulling this thing for days and hrs at a time somebody has to know somthing about this hpi t25