LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

After running it for over a year with no drama, I think it is time to do a complete strip-down of my grandson's HPI Nitro Rush. Got it partially done already, and have found a few parts that need replacing.

Keeping in mind that this truck is run around in the yard and occasionally on the street (no racing, "bashing", etc.), I have some questions for you guys:

1. This may be a dumb one, but isn't the clutch bell supposed to have a lining? This one is nice and shiny inside, and the clutch shoes themselves seem okay. The torrington bearing that rides inside the clutch pinion is toast, however. I didn't know it was in there, and consequently did not keep it lubricated.

2. I haven't torn down the transmission yet; should I?

3. The shocks are shot. Is it worth the trouble (and less expense) of rebuilding them, or does it make more sense just to buy new ones?

Information on any other areas to look at, specific to the Nitro Rush, would be appreciated. This is the only nitro buggy/truck I've owned that didn't collapse of old age/cheap parts less than a year after I bought it, so I don't have any experience in overhauling one.

Any advice gratefully accepted...

Steve

gubbs3

My Feedback: (1)

The clutch bell is fine, that is the way they all are. I suggest you get Robison Red Seal bearings in the correct size for the clutch. I have had very good luck with them.

You should definately disassemble the tranny. Open up the diff and clean out all the old grease and re-lube it. Replace any gears that are worn (teeth apear to curve like a wave).

You don't need to replace the shocks. But I would suggest getting a rebuild kit. The kit usually has new seals, spacers, and sometimes pistons. What you need the most is the seals. I would also suggest new shafts to go with the seals. Get some good silicone oil meant for shocks. Check the manual but 35 weight would seem right. You could probably rebuild all the shocks for about $15 if they are really bad. With new, seals, pistons, and shafts the shocks should seem like new. Read up on how to properly bleed shocks so you can minimize air bubbles in them.

Now, it will make your life much more fun if you take a few measures to maintain the truck.

1. After each and every day of running, whether you run one or ten tanks, give the chassis a good once over. Check for anything bent or broken and replace it as soon as you can visit a hobby shop. Also take a few minutes to brush all the dirt off. Concentrate mostly on the shocks and suspension.

2. -Shocks- They require the most maintanence of all. Its a good idea to change the oil at least every couple of weeks. I'm sure you have found out that the oil gets very dirty. The dirt in the oil will wear away at the seals rather quickly. Rebuild with new seals every other or third time you refill the shocks (about every 2 months or when they need it)

3. -Cleaning- It is very important that you clean the truck every once in a while, when you're rebuilding the shocks is perfect. Every few times I ran mine I would clean it with some solvent and a toothbrush. Be careful not to get the solvent on any of the radio equipment. You may have to disassemble the truck a bit for this. Take off the engine and shocks, maybe a few chassis components. Get off any dirt and oil visible. This will extend the life of all the moving parts. Lets face it, a clean truck, is a happy truck. And if you want to bring it in the house, it won't leave spots.

This may sound like a lot of work but it doesn't even take five minutes to give it a once over and clean it with a toothbrush. Rebuilding the shocks may take you an hour, maybe two, but once you do it once you will know exactly what you're doing and you'll end up done in 30 minutes.

Giving it a good cleaning will take as long as you want. You can take nothing off and just clean what you can get at, or you can take it nearly all apart and make a weekend out of it.

Maintanence is really easy and can be fun. Just give it a bit of your time every time you play and it will last a lot longer and you won't have to go to the hobby shop with a "grocery list."

Krusty

Steve,
What gubbs3 says is pretty much true, but rebuilding the shocks that often might be a little overkill. I have two Nitro Rushes, one is for off-road and the other is strickly on-road use only. Changing the oil in the shocks is a good idea, but I feel that a rebuild is only waranted when the shocks are starting to leak. Depending on how often the truck is run and the action of the shock, is a good indication as to when the oil and a rebuild is necessary. As I had mentioned before, I rebuild when they start to leak and change the oil when the "action" doesn't seem to be just right. After each session, I go over each screw, bolt and nut to ensure they are tight. I clean the vehicle by blowing-off the heavy stuff with an air-hose (35-45 psi) then lightly spraying it with a 50/50 mixture of denatured alcohol and water then making with the air-hose again until everything is dry. Make sure you do this outside and wear some sort of eye protection. That is what I do. I hope it helped.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Oh, I do keep it clean. I'm actually pretty anal about that sort of thing. I've had to replace a steering arm when the kid smacked into the house once, but the truck has not been ragged very hard and is holding up remarkably well.

The shocks aren't leaking, but have gotten rather "soft". I think I'll rebuild them just for the sport of it

But tips like how to rebuild the shocks and checking the tranny gears for "waves" is just the sort of info I was looking for.

Steve

ShoestringRacer

I do not want to discourage you from a tranny tear down, but I just wait for some gears to blow out and then rebuild as necessary. The 4 bevel/spider gears in the diff are particularly soft, I'm surprised they have not stripped already...been through 3 sets of spiders/bevels in my Rush so far. As for the clutch bell, it will eventually become too glazed over from clutch shoe residue and the clutch will not be able to grip, so what I do is take a steel brush on my dremel and lightly go over the inside of the clutch bell. then it engages real nice after that. mind you the clutch may be too far worn as well and may need replacing.

Steve Campbell2

The differential gears were dry, and had some wear, but they look to be still okay. I greased 'em up good and reassembled the unit. The other gears in the tranny case itself look fine. In fact, the only gear that looks a bit ragged is the big drive (spur?) gear. It will be replaced.

Anyone know if HPI is still honoring the Rush frame swap-out? This one is bent; not badly, but it will need to be straightened, and doing that will weaken it. A new one is only $30, but if I can get one for return shipping, what the hey...

I called HPI Friday, but I guess it was their every-other-Friday off. I'll try them again today.

Thanks for the additional tips. I'll hit the clutch inner surface with some 220 wet-or-dry paper to break the glaze (couldn't find the wire brush for my Dremel). When I didn't see a liner, it kind of threw me. Guess I've been fooling with helicopters too long...<G>

Steve

Krusty

As far as I know, HPI is still honoring the chassis exchange program. I sent in one of mine and received it within a week. It will cost you about three dollars to ship it. HPI takes care of return shipping. The new chassis includes the engine plate. "...only $30.." That money is better off in your pocket instead of theirs. That's almost two tank-fulls of gas for your auto.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Yup; called them today and they said send it right in, no questions asked.

What a deal. That's customer service at it's best.

Steve

bowelmovement

you liar, I am sure there must have been some drama, now give it to me!!!

ZeroKelvin

just buy another one, this one is too far gone

The_Shark

talking to anchient artifacts again?

ZeroKelvin

that's not a nice thing to say about your mother

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Holy crap. It costs double that to fill ThunderbirdJunkie's Jeep.

Oh how things have progressed the past decade[&:]

The_Shark

in bout 5 years that will be what it will cost to fill up your push mower.