rmteo1

My Feedback: (2)

For those of you who have received the CNC Aluminum Drive Cups for the Nitro TC3, and have had a chance to try them out, please post your findings here instead of in the original post, thanks.

RT

ZIZI

My Feedback: (2)

i havent yet been able to test your product running but I like the machiening when i am able to get otu and try it out i will let you knwo looks good though!

venom93cobra

rmteo1, I just recieved your parts today. Thank you for sending them. The machining looks top quality. I will install them today or tomorrow and reply back. BTW how much do you plan selling these for?

joey91473

got them in the mail, perfect looking, I installed them and will let you know how they hold up, which by the way they look will be no problem.Thanks

rmteo1

My Feedback: (2)

Hi venom93cobra,

Probable pricing for the Front will be $8 and the Rear will be $18 or $25 for the set. They will be blue anodized in the final version.

Also if the Front cups will fit the electric TC3, I will price them at $8 each or $15 for a pair.

I have asked the question whether the Front drive cup will fit the electric TC3 on this and on the electric cars forum but have not received a reply. Anyone know the answer?? If they fit, I would like to have some users test them.

kevetz99

My Feedback: (3)

I got them two days ago, and I haven't gotten to try em' out yet, but the machining looks top notch!

BBNTC3

I also received my drivecups this week. Very good machining and top quality.
Heres some specs for you guys:
Weight vs. HardCore hubs and AE stock nylon hubs.
HardCore front hub weighs in at 2.1 grams and the rear brakehub weighs in at 6.4 grams.
AE. nylon front is 1.0 grams and the rear brakehub is 4.4 grams.
TS Engineering front hub weighs in at 1.6 grams and the rearhub weighs 4.1 grams.
So if you are using the HC hubs there's a rotating mass decrease of 2.8 grams
If using the Ae stock nylon stuff there's a .3 mass gain. But the gain is on the front hub not the rear where the most mass is. Good or bad? That's a hard one! I would think the less on the rear the better.

When installing the TS hubs I had a problem with no driveshaft endplay and the diff would'nt line back up with mounting holes. It was a simple fix, the slots in the front drivecup had to be filed alittle deaper than the orginal slot.

I will try out the product Sunday and inform you guys of any performance gain or loss is noticeable.
One thing for sure if there's no noticeable increase in performance, they sure do look sweat!!!!!
Thanks TS ENGINEERING!!!!! BB

BBNTC3

rmteo 1: As for you asking about the front drivehub fitting the electric TC3?
YES: It should work with no problem! I have been using the alum TC3 front drivehub on my car from the beginning. BB

rmteo1

My Feedback: (2)

Hi BBNTC3,

Thank you for your report. I am glad to hear that you went to the trouble of weighing the parts and coming up with results that look pretty good. It is interesting to note that my parts are almost as light as the orginal plastic parts and quite a bit lighter than the HC parts.

How much deeper did you have to make the slot in the front cup? I can make this change on a run of parts that I am doing right now.

Also, I can send you a pair of fronts to use on your electric TC3. Let me know, thanks.

RT

BBNTC3

I did not check the depth before cutting or after. It seems to be about .020. I know the HC front hub slot depth is around .220 deep. but that has alot to do with design over all length I'm sure. Over all length on the HC front hub is .600. But, AE and HC puts a .020 lip on the back of the hub in the drivepin area where as yours is machined flat there, this maybe where the problem is. ?. Now I have about .030 endplay float in the driveshaft. If it's of any help my slot now ends approx. .035 to.040 before the first ring you have machned into the hub. I could get a pretty good reading there with the parts installed, with a caliber.
Thanks for the offer on the hubs for the electric TC3 but I have sold all my electric cars.
Did you get my e-mail about the Titanium driveshaft for the NTC3? Theres only one complany making them and they are hard to get. Also this company makes Titanium cvds for the NTC 3. This is another area you might want to think about? Just make the cvd bones so you will be able
to use the AE or MIP outer cvd hub. The loss of material to make the cvd bones may not be worth the effort. I know good grades of Titanium is expensive.
Also I want to get with you soon on the chassis design of mine. I think it would be a sweet chassis mod for those big blocks and small block applications. With our design there is no vibration and fuel delivery issues the car has plagued some of us with.
Especially people trying to use high HP modded engines.
Thanks again: BB

BBNTC3

Okay guys got to race the car yesterday with the new TS goodies. The car does seem to have more accel. with the hubs over the HC stuff, it's been over a year since I used the AE hubs, so I can't tell anything about that, someone with the AE hubs will have to give input on that.

kevetz99

My Feedback: (3)

Ok, I got to try them out. Here is what I found:

-Easy installation, with no real modifications needed.
-Nice Machining
-Nice Look

Now to what I found while testing them:

-I don't really know how to put it, but better response, and brake rigidity was noticed
-No problems with any signs of wear yet
-They worked perfectly fine!

Overall, they worked out great, and nothing went wrong. Great job on them!

-kevetz99

studysession

It has been raining every race day here. Don't usually get this much rain in MD.

diink

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for the sample. Installed it without any problems at all. Looks great! Race day was last weekend and I made it around the track 3 times during practice and they seemed to hold up perfectly.
Unfortunately I was hit hard in the first round by a car out of control caused by someone turning on a radio in the pits. My NTC3 was done for the day.
Despite the massive head-on impact the drive cups survived so you now have a passing grade for crash testing. Testing will resume when I get it back together.

Nice workmanship. Two thumbs up from me.

rmteo1

My Feedback: (2)

Anyone else have the chance to install and/or try these things? I must have sent out over 20 of the sets.

RT

spadworld

I'm cleaning up my car and installing them as I speak. Lie I PM'd I found a couple sharp edges. I took a precision electronics file and filed the edges smooth. Didn't hurt the look at all! I'll let you know if I have to make the notches any deeper. The material is super soft I'm curious to see how they hold up. So far that's my only concern.

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civictypenos

i installed mine.the front cup slot was not cut straight down,it was at a angle,then backed out and recut straight,does not effect performance and cant really tell unless you look real hard.i didnt really notice a performance change,its just better looking now.i appreciate the free parts and that was my take on them,very nice milling and very clean looking.

spadworld

Finally I got around to cleaning my car up It looks almost brand new now. I installed the drive cups while I was at it. The front one acted like the grooves for the drive shaft pin were at an angle or curved and required a little filing to get the drive shaft to not be in a bind. I drew a pic of the cup to kinda elaborate on this but that some are saying is there. I've exagerated on it to make it a little more clear to see. Just looks like the bit either moved or the part moved while being notched.

civictypenos

after 2 weekends of about 4 hours running each.

the brake cup is showing alot of wear and tear,right around where it holds the brake pad,the 4 corners,where the disc comes in contact.its starting to form grooves in the aluminum.

my brakes are set real light,due to the track im on,it takes about 6 foot for my car to come to a complete stop,so i know its not from the brakes being to sudden or jerking.

someone who has run them for a few hours take a look at your and see if you see what i see?

spadworld

The brake hub is starting to wear on mine after about 20 tanks. But they don't seem to bea wearing bad. On the brake disk the cuts are straight when the drive cup has them at an angle. Where the lowest points on the disk cuts touch the cup it makes small indentions . I think this indention will go until the slots in the disk wear at the cups until the edges are flat thus spreading the load from a small point to a larger area. I'll keep an eye on them but I think for the price that you are offering more at I'll deffinately buy more if the wear gets to bad. The front cup shows no wear at all. I figured it would since it's feels like fairly soft material and I thaught the drive shaft pins would wear the inside of the slot some but it hasn't as of yet. I'll keep you posted if anything changes.

Once again thanks for the cups. And kick that guys rear for lying!

studysession

Sorry it took so long - But in MD we have had a lot of bad weather. Got my car out yesterday for fixing.

Installed new pieces. Looks great

studysession

Pic2

studysession

Pic3

studysession

Pic4

studysession

Could not test drive do to broken battery pack yesterday. I broke it last time I drove car. Picked up new one today. Will be test driving over next couple of days.

One thing I noticed is metal is fragile. I use pliers to put parts on. Scratch and dent easy. Hold with the pliers while using hex driver to put screw back in place. Bad idea - need to put rag between pliers and parts.

My NTC3 is a RTR w/ 2 spd upgrade. Added AE purple coolant head and brings down temp 40 - 50 degrees. Added bigger air filter and AE Aluminum threaded shocks. Also have different weight springs - Red on front and Purple on rear. Used purple fuel hosing to match coolant. Put an RPM front bumper on. I am using a dynamite fail safe.

My radio is a JR XS3 and I am using an RS300 receiver.

I also changed both 1st and 2nd pinion and spur gears. The car is extremely fast.