Quick Tuning Guides for Newbies!
06-07-2009, 12:05 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southern California,
CA
Posts: 6,912
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Quick Tuning Guides for Newbies!
I’ve read a few tuning tips online, and I have to say that I have never seen a guide (Ron Paris guide might be an exception, but that only works for some engines) that says to tune the low speed needle (LSN) and idle first, then do the HSN. I’ve asked a few people at tracks to help tune my engine when I was clueless, and ALL five of them took off the box, put it on the starter box or car stand (anything that lifts the tires above the ground) and tune the LSN and idle first. One of the people who really helped me out was Adam Drake, I had a rich LSN and lean HSN and it just didn’t feel right. He did the method below and it helped me out a lot! So let me explain an easier method that works on almost all types of engines!
Start off by leaning the LSN, then counteract the idle by lowering the idle. What this does is when you lean the LSN, the idle gets higher, so you want to lower the idle with the idle screw. Do this until the engine revs up slightly and dies within 4-5 seconds when doing the pinch test. To do the pinch test, follow these steps-run the car on the surface you will be running on for a few minutes. What I do is preheat with a heat gun until head temp gets to 250, so inside the engine gets to about 200. Fire the engine up and idle for a bit getting the RPM’s up to clear the engine out. Run it for a good 2-3 minutes then come back in. Temp should be between 200-250. Or better yet, don’t worry about temps now, just make sure the engine is warmed up. Come in and let the engine idle for 15 seconds, then pinch the line. Engine should rev up slightly then die in 4-5 seconds. If it dies immediately, richen LSN ¼ of a turn. If engine doesn’t idle at all, put idle up ½ turn and lean LSN 1/8 of a turn until idle is stable. Now you can continue leaning the LSN and lowering the idle screw. Do this until you do the pinch test and get it at 4-5 seconds.
Now you have your LSN and idle perfectly tuned, you now tune your HSN. Before you do that, richen LSN 1/8-1/4 turn depending on how lean or rich the HSN was before (if it was at race tune, richen LSN 1/8, if at factory richen about 1/4) I do this because when you lean the HSN you also lean the LSN. Now you can basically call your temps and performance from the HSN. Once you got your engine running great with a "fair or small" amount of smoke, check engine temp. Engine should be around 200-250. If lower, lean HSN and if higher, stop engine and richen HSN. If the engine is in between 200-250, recheck LSN with the pinch test. Your engine should idle low, tires shouldn’t spin if your tires are off the ground (well they could spin slowly but I would decrease the idle a bit more). NOW you have a perfectly tuned engine. After that, you really shouldn’t need to tune your LSN and idle much unless of big temperature or humidity changes. This way has worked out the best for me, rather than the HSN first, then LSN, then idle. That method never really made sense to me for some reason. This method might take a bit longer, but in my opinion it is a lot easier and your engine will produce more power! Hope this helps for anyone who wants to try something different or is lost in a tune.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask them. I must say that I am more of a tech junkie than a good racer. I'm just your average sportman buggy joe that tries to go faster on small things because of lack of driver skill.
Now in step by step fashion (xjgkz reccomended)
Tuning:
1.Start off by leaning the LSN, then counteract the idle by lowering the idle. What this does is when you lean the LSN, the idle gets higher, so you want to lower the idle with the idle screw. Do this until the engine revs up slightly and dies within 4-5 seconds when doing the pinch test (below).
2. After the pinch test is completed, you now have the LSN perfectly tuned. Before you do that, richen LSN 1/8-1/4 turn depending on how lean or rich the HSN was before (if it was at race tune, richen LSN 1/8, if at factory richen about 1/4) I do this because when you lean the HSN you also lean the LSN.
3. Now you can just call your temps and performance from your HSN.
4. You want to see smoke coming out of the exhaust at WOT. You have to look really close sometimes if it is running a bit lean or you are on the drivers stand. If there is a fair amount of smoke, your engine is perfectly tuned.
5. Now temp the engine. It should be around 200-250 degrees. <200 will cause premature wear on the piston sleeve and it will be hard on the rod as the piston is just smashing going up and down when cold. 250< I would richen, as going WOT it can get aufully close to 300. Although some engines rungreat at 280 for over 10 gallons.
6.Post a comment on this thread!
Pinch Test:
1. Heat the engine head up with aheat gun (hair dryer willonly go to about 160)to 250 so the engine internals get to about 200. Fire it up quicky and run the car on the surface you will be running on for 2-3 minutes.
2. Come in and let the engine idle for 15 seconds, then pinch the line. Engine should rev up slightly then die in 4-5 seconds. If it dies immediately, richen LSN ¼ of a turn. If engine doesn’t idle at all, put idle up ½ turn and lean LSN 1/8 of a turn until idle is stable the redo pinch test.
Punch Test: This works good for some racers but I find it easier to get a baseline tune from the pinch test and fine tune it with the punch test but for the average joe pinch test works better.
1. Run it around the track for a couple minutes to get it warmed up.
2. Stop at the front of the straightaway trying not to be in the middle interferring with other cars.
3. Count 15 seconds in your head, then punch it. You should seemore smoke than normal coming out of the exhaust because the engine is filling up with fuel. So I like to get it that after the punch test it is 1/8 richer than full performance of the punch test (without any lean bog or excessive smoke).
4. Now redo the pinch test, aim at 4 seconds until it dies.
ALWAYS TUNE ITON THE CONDITIONS YOU ARE RUNNING ON. I guarantee you if you tune on pavement then have the same tune (withyour engine still runing even) it will be lean on the track because of wheelspin.
Hope this helps the people that are looking at this guide at the track or field!
Now you have your LSN and idle perfectly tuned, you now tune your HSN. Before you do that, richen LSN 1/8-1/4 turn depending on how lean or rich the HSN was before (if it was at race tune, richen LSN 1/8, if at factory richen about 1/4) I do this because when you lean the HSN you also lean the LSN. Now you can basically call your temps and performance from the HSN. Once you got your engine running great with a "fair or small" amount of smoke, check engine temp. Engine should be around 200-250. If lower, lean HSN and if higher, stop engine and richen HSN. If the engine is in between 200-250, recheck LSN with the pinch test. Your engine should idle low, tires shouldn’t spin if your tires are off the ground (well they could spin slowly but I would decrease the idle a bit more). NOW you have a perfectly tuned engine. After that, you really shouldn’t need to tune your LSN and idle much unless of big temperature or humidity changes. This way has worked out the best for me, rather than the HSN first, then LSN, then idle. That method never really made sense to me for some reason. This method might take a bit longer, but in my opinion it is a lot easier and your engine will produce more power! Hope this helps for anyone who wants to try something different or is lost in a tune.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask them. I must say that I am more of a tech junkie than a good racer. I'm just your average sportman buggy joe that tries to go faster on small things because of lack of driver skill.
Now in step by step fashion (xjgkz reccomended)
Tuning:
1.Start off by leaning the LSN, then counteract the idle by lowering the idle. What this does is when you lean the LSN, the idle gets higher, so you want to lower the idle with the idle screw. Do this until the engine revs up slightly and dies within 4-5 seconds when doing the pinch test (below).
2. After the pinch test is completed, you now have the LSN perfectly tuned. Before you do that, richen LSN 1/8-1/4 turn depending on how lean or rich the HSN was before (if it was at race tune, richen LSN 1/8, if at factory richen about 1/4) I do this because when you lean the HSN you also lean the LSN.
3. Now you can just call your temps and performance from your HSN.
4. You want to see smoke coming out of the exhaust at WOT. You have to look really close sometimes if it is running a bit lean or you are on the drivers stand. If there is a fair amount of smoke, your engine is perfectly tuned.
5. Now temp the engine. It should be around 200-250 degrees. <200 will cause premature wear on the piston sleeve and it will be hard on the rod as the piston is just smashing going up and down when cold. 250< I would richen, as going WOT it can get aufully close to 300. Although some engines rungreat at 280 for over 10 gallons.
6.Post a comment on this thread!
Pinch Test:
1. Heat the engine head up with aheat gun (hair dryer willonly go to about 160)to 250 so the engine internals get to about 200. Fire it up quicky and run the car on the surface you will be running on for 2-3 minutes.
2. Come in and let the engine idle for 15 seconds, then pinch the line. Engine should rev up slightly then die in 4-5 seconds. If it dies immediately, richen LSN ¼ of a turn. If engine doesn’t idle at all, put idle up ½ turn and lean LSN 1/8 of a turn until idle is stable the redo pinch test.
Punch Test: This works good for some racers but I find it easier to get a baseline tune from the pinch test and fine tune it with the punch test but for the average joe pinch test works better.
1. Run it around the track for a couple minutes to get it warmed up.
2. Stop at the front of the straightaway trying not to be in the middle interferring with other cars.
3. Count 15 seconds in your head, then punch it. You should seemore smoke than normal coming out of the exhaust because the engine is filling up with fuel. So I like to get it that after the punch test it is 1/8 richer than full performance of the punch test (without any lean bog or excessive smoke).
4. Now redo the pinch test, aim at 4 seconds until it dies.
ALWAYS TUNE ITON THE CONDITIONS YOU ARE RUNNING ON. I guarantee you if you tune on pavement then have the same tune (withyour engine still runing even) it will be lean on the track because of wheelspin.
Hope this helps the people that are looking at this guide at the track or field!
06-07-2009, 12:18 AM
#2
RE: Quick Tuning Guides for Newbies!
Great guide for newbies, even though it goes against almost all tuning guides to do your LSN first, however logic says it will work just fine, so again, great guide, should help out alot of people.
I vote this should be a sticky.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
I vote this should be a sticky.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
06-07-2009, 12:21 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southern California,
CA
Posts: 6,912
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Quick Tuning Guides for Newbies!
ORIGINAL: Krawlin
Great guide for newbies, even though it goes against almost all tuning guides to do your LSN first, however logic says it will work just fine, so again, great guide, should help out alot of people.
I vote this should be a sticky.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
Great guide for newbies, even though it goes against almost all tuning guides to do your LSN first, however logic says it will work just fine, so again, great guide, should help out alot of people.
I vote this should be a sticky.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]
06-07-2009, 12:40 AM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southern California,
CA
Posts: 6,912
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Quick Tuning Guides for Newbies!
ORIGINAL: Krawlin
No problem man. BTW how is that VSpec running so far? Did it rip at TA?
No problem man. BTW how is that VSpec running so far? Did it rip at TA?
