laextreme

i was wondering if someone could tell me how or point me in the right direction. thanks

SyCo_VeNoM

look up vacuum forming lexan RC
theres videos on youtube that show how
It doesn't seem easy

Shabbernigdo

its fairly easy if you have the tools or the funds to build the set up you need.

If not then its a pain and more then likely gonna be more trouble then its worth.

Hydroxine

Hi there.

Custom bodies is definately worth it if you have the time and patience for it. There are 2 main ways of doing this.

Frankensteining

This is basically like getting the shell you want as your main shell and buying more shells for extra parts. For example. I know of somebody who got a Nissan S14 shell. S15 shell and i think a lexus shell. Cut the front off the S14 and S15, Put the S15 front on the S14 and scrapped the rest. Next got this third shell (I think it was a lexus) just for the wheel arches. So now he has a wide arch Nissan S14.5 shell. looks the nuts!


Custom Moulds

This is the way i do things. As mentioned above, take a look on youtube. There are videos showing how to create your own vaccuum former and how to do it your self. This can be more expensive than frankensteining but you will have everything to use again and again. To make moulds, I use Balsa wood. Because its soft, easy to work with, cheap and strong enough for moulding. Also, a Dremel makes light work of it.

I will be making my own bodykit and detail parts for my current project when i get to that stage.


Also, once you have the body sorted out. You can keep going as far as your imagination allows. roll cages, dash boards, hell, i even did a trunk install with speakers in my Subaru shell. Think how you want the shell to be, how far you want to go with it and what you want to do, then think about how you can achieve it. Sky is the limit fella.

laextreme

thanks for the great info. i just looked up vacum forming and it seems easy to make as my dad already has all the materials. my first question is where can i get the lexan?? home depot?? lowes?? and also could i carve it out of a foam block or would it collapse down from the suckin?

Hydroxine

You can get sheet lexan from Ebay. I'm not sure about 'Home Depot', I'm in UK. Also, bear in mind that when you form it, the sheet is being stretched so it will thin out. So i would recommend using a 2mm lexan for a 1:10 scale. It all depends what you plan on making. Perspex can even be used in some applications like spoilers and splitters. But with Perspex, if it gets hit from a crash, it will shatter. Foam block may work, i've never tried, but as you say, i guess it may lose its shape when forming. I highly recommend Balsa wood for smaller stuff like bodykits, splitters and stuff. Bigger things, You want something farely solid and easy to mould and shape. MDF is an idea and im sure you can get it in brick form, not sure where though. Would be a nightmare to work with though. If you do decide to go the MDF route wear a face mask!

Also, a Dremel is the hobbyists best friend but you will need a steady hand. The more precise you are and the more time you take doing it and getting it right, the better the result.

In all seriousness though, See what the biggest chunk of balsa you can get is, and even use wood glue to make bigger pieces. use a dremel to get the shape you want then use wet n dry paper to get it completely smooth. It's also worth noting, the thinner the lexan you use, the more detail you will get. The thick the lexan, the stronger. Its a fine balance.

If you want to do a whole shell, Maybe try doing it like a real car... Panel by panel. Bit of a pain, but if you get it right, you could end up with something truely amazing.

Hydroxine

I could only find these shots... This is before he added the arches.

SyCo_VeNoM

in all truth you could probably get a normal model of the vehicle in the scale you want the body of, and use that as a mold

I think a foam block would melt seeing the lexan will be near 400 degrees.

home depot and lowes lexan is too think pretty sure the thinnest they have is 1/8th inch where you want under 2mm's

Hydroxine

2mm should be fine, like i say, will thin out after you mould it.

laextreme

hydroxine, do you by chance have any pictures of balsa wood that you made forms from?? the only problem i see with doing eah panel seperate is being able to match the lines and curves of the body up.

laextreme

also the truck i plan on making the body for i will only be driving on road and if i ever do go off road i will just use the stock body, when it is on road i plan on making a front spoiler to keep the front end on the ground so it would br hit first in the crash so i may try to find some of this perspex

Hydroxine

If you can, try and avoid using perspex for making a shell, you may regret it. It's great for spoilers, splitters and other accessories like that, But for use as body  panels and body kits, May be a bit of a FAIL idea. If you think, when you crash with a normal shell, it flexes. Perspex doesnt flex, it will just shatter. If you do add a spoiler thing to the front,l even if you crash with that, it wont stop it damaging the shell, the impact force would be too great and still damage the shell.

Balsa wood just looks like pine, only its very light and it's strong enough for moulding. They use it for stunt props, People on here with aircraft use it because its so light. If you had a good 2x4 piece and hit somebody really hard with it, it will just break and you both end up laughing. Great stuff. Most model shops and i think toy stores (Things like train sets and war hammer stuff) stock it.

laextreme

so the balsa wood, it is easy to carve out yopu say for the mold?? you are from the uk huh? i am going to england in late july for soccer on a super club team, im really lookin forward to it.

Hydroxine

Soccer? you  mean  football... lol

Yeah, balsa is really easy to work with. Hell you can cut it with household scissors. I tend to use the sanding tool on the dremel, Makles very light work, just to get the basic shape i want, then sand paper to smooth it off.

Some moulds its worth doing in smaller bits, then glueing it all togeather. Its better than making one big mould, screwing up a small bit then having to start over. It takes time to get it right and may take a few attempts. Im on my 3rd go at doing a front bumper for my bodykit.

laextreme

ha ya sorry football, i have a feeling im going to get myself in some kinda trouble sayin that. ya i may take the seperate parts route so as to save time and materials if i screw up, i will have to see wsize kinda balsa wood i can find.

Hydroxine

Biggest i found so far is 1x2inches but im sure you can get bigger stuff.

Oh, i forgot to mention. Anything that has an indented impression... so for example, on the front bumper for the bodykit im doing, all the vents. These need a hole or two drilling into them so that it makes a perfect indent.

Also, the beauty about balsa wood is, if you struggle taking the mould out of the plastic when its done, you can break it out easily. Down side is, you lose the mould.

MTboy

How do you join the two parts together that will hold under crashes?

Hydroxine

On a mod like the ones in the shot, The origional main part of the shell, when cutting, leave about 5mm over. When you add on the piece, ie. in the photo's, the new fron, simply glue it on top. Lik leaving a seam. Make ue you use a solvent free glue. Best i have used is 'Zappa-Dappa-Goo'. I highly recommend this glue for all rc stuff. Sticks anything, doesnt damage paint and is bomb proof!.

Any mod like this does have the risk of coming off or being completely destryed in a crash. Bear in mind that one of the glued surfaces is painted, so if it does come off, its taking paint with it.


Bodykits on the other hand, i tend  to make little tabs and glue them on to both the shell and the new part from behind. If you do it well enough, you'll never know there was any work done.

laextreme

so your talking about drilling a hole where the indention is so there is also a vacum there getting more suction correct?

Hydroxine

yes, thats correct. Without it, you end up with an air pocket instead of an indentation.

laextreme

ah i see. i am going to see what size balsa i can find at some local stores this weekend and try to start carvin. ill try to post pics but not sure if i no how to work my dads new camera

RURC

OMG 2mm is far too thick. That is like 0,080". IF you are doing a really heavy duty 1/5 or 1/4 scale body then maybe use the 0.080". But with 1/8 or 1/10 even 0.040" (1mm) makes a very strong body. I have seen others use 0.0250" (0.635mm) and that will make a clean super detailed body. But I stick with 0.040" (1mm) for 1/10 and 1/8 scale.

1QwkSport2.5r

RURC

OK I did not know it was a problem to post a correction to a statement that was old and incorrect.

I came across this while doing research for something.

1QwkSport2.5r