sick6stang

Iseem to be having the same problem happening over and over. The front suspension will get jammed on either the right or left side. It appears that the drive shaft will come out of the differential drive cup. Why? and how do Ifix this problem?

ehroof

Sounds like your pillow balls are set out too far and letting the front drive bones come out of the cups, set them in further and i am sure the problem will go away.

sick6stang

I pulled the truggy into the shop. I had the top balls completly tight, and the bottoms out 1/16". Upon further notice the one lower ball worked out. It was out to 3/8" They were loc-tite in there also. I just re loc-tite them and tightened them the whole way in. There goes my camber. haha. Can I put shims behind the balls so Ican keep the correct camber, but have the balls tight against something? And are the rtr balls titanium, or plain steel? Igot a few more bent ones.

ehroof

rxb-016 are titanium http://server.sohouniverse.net/~himo...&=SID#MOREINFO

Redharris

This happens a Lot with "Dog Bone" style drive trains.

You dont want to Bugger up your camber settings. You wont be able to compete against the guys with proper set ups.......

There is actually too much suspension travel, and the dog bones can get Jammed into the cups,,,,,or they can actually Fall out.....

I think Himoto sells CV Drive shafts for the RXT, (which should help).

You may also limit Suspension travel,,,,,which should help......

sick6stang

I think mine are CV shafts already. They have a pin on one side that goes into the drive cup on the differential, and a knuckle on the other end that goes into the hub. I was thinking of setting up the camber, then measuring the distance that the ball extends with my dial calipers. Then I was going to make a bushing from aluminum so I can tighten them down. I do believe this will keep them from working loose. Whats your opinions?

ehroof

I think your "balls" were set a little too far out so when the suspension was in the air they dogbone end fell out of the drive cups.  I would set it up all the way in top and bottom then set it up how you like from full in, this might explain how your pivot ball shafts were bending.  I have mine setup pretty close to all the way in and have taken some pretty serious air and have never had one pop out of the drive cup.

sick6stang

Eddie, I take it you did not read my one post. (LOL)I did have the tops bottomed out into the arms. Only had the bottoms out 1/16". They worked loose on me while running. The bottoms were out 3/8" on the side the shaft kept falling out. Iwas going to set them up, measure how far out I had to set them and machine a spacer so I can tighten the ball down against something.

ehroof

a dab of CA glue on the threads will work well too, loctite does not work so well in plastic, i just reread your post, lol.....

sick6stang

I got billet aluminum a-arms. (LOL) not plastic.

ehroof

ahhhhhhh, lol.....  i guess washers or a spacer would be the way to go then...... 

ehroof

there is a blue paste loctite thats really good, my buddy had it but i never seen it anywhere, was nice and thick, not like the liquid stuff.

kuppler

Eddie was it like this...
http://www.etool.ca/RENDER/1/91/3027/11365.html

ehroof

thats it

sick6stang

!!!PIVIOTBALLPROBLEMSOLVED!!!

#1: Set your camber to desired settings. Measure the distance the pivot ball is extended from the arm with a dial caliper. Make metal shims to tighten pivot balls against. You can use brake line for the spacers. Cut off with a pipe cutter close to your size, then flat file to size. Loc-Tite the pivot balls in place.

sick6stang

NEWRXTPROBLEM!!!

The rear pins keep poping out of the plastic holders. The pins seem to want to tear the plastic holder and streach it. Thus leaving the pin that holds the lower rear a-arm pull out. Anyone have any suggestions, or know of any better ways to assemble the rear arms?

ehroof

is the pin loose in the arm or tight?  Is there play with the lower arm that it moves back and forth?  I have been jumping my rxt for a couple of years and never seen that or heard of it from anyone with the rxt. 

sick6stang

I will reassemble the arms, and post another photo.

sick6stang

NOTE: This is a make shift setup for now. I have no more deep cups to install the pins into. I had to use some spacers so the lower front a-arm support could be tightened down. Will post pictures when the new pin cups arrive. I hope this will do for now.

NOTE: TEMP FIX TILL I RECIEVE THE DEEPER PIN KEEPER CUPS FROM HONG KONG. NEVER RAN THE TRUGGY LIKE THIS.

genitor

I believe what is happening here is that all the force on impacts is being transferred to the plastic cup holders since they are the weakest point.
If you had plastic arms, they would flex a bit and absorb some of the force on impacts. I've had a similar problem running aluminum arms on another rc.

ehroof

there shouldnt be a space between the arm and the holder, those spacers you have on the holder should take up the slack on the arm.  Are the pins loose in the arm, do they slide in and out easily? 

bkfamily1

My Feedback: (1)

I agree Eddie - something does not look right, but I have not had a chance to look at mine. What are those white spacers and what looks like a nut between the lower arm holder and the diff case? I do not remember there being space there. I thought the lower arm holder was up against the diff case, but I could be wrong. If you look at these pics (taken from one of Adam's posts in the RXT thread), I do not see any space there. That would let the pins slip out since the plastic cups are just there to position the pins in the holder from inside to outside and adjust the suspension. They are not meant to be string enough to hold the pins. The ends of the pins are supposed to be far enough in that they are actually inside the metal.

sick6stang

If you read my post carefully, Iexplain that I have no more deep cups left. And I had to rig the setup to accomidate the fact that I have no more deepdished cups.This is just a temp fix. Once the cups come in from Hing Kong I will post another pic of the way the arms are seated.

ehroof

ok but are the pins able to slide back and fourth in the arms or is it solid?  if those pins are not moving inside the arms that would or could explain why they are puncturing thru the cups.

bkfamily1

My Feedback: (1)

OK - I get it now - I missed that the first time. That explains the space. I wonder if that is stopping the ends of the pins from going in far enough to be captured by the metal lower arm holder?

How long until you get the deep cups? I have some extras if you want me to send a couple.