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-   -   Hyper 7 breakin today went bad (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-car-general-discussions-179/11597161-hyper-7-breakin-today-went-bad.html)

PeeBeMe 04-04-2014 03:38 PM

Hyper 7 breakin today went bad
 
Hi guys. I was breaking in my hyper 7 today and got to my 3rd tank and my engine shut off.
I tried to start it up and notice, my pull start and flywheel won't move at all. I took the glow plug out and still won't move.
What should I do yall , send it back to the company or....?

nitroexpress 04-04-2014 03:54 PM

Take the engine out of the vehicle. Take the back plate off and check to see if the rod is broken.

Did you preheat the engine and/or run it too lean. What brand of fuel was used?

nitrosportsandrunner 04-04-2014 04:49 PM

did you have a temp gun....to check engine temps as you broke it in?

only time ive had a motor I couldn't turn over was when it got base flooded....but taking the glow plug out and turning it upside down and then pulling the starter would fix that.

PeeBeMe 04-04-2014 05:14 PM

Hi.
I had a temp gun and I was using traxxas fuel "I know I know"

PeeBeMe 04-04-2014 05:16 PM

Tried that to my friend. Thanks guys

nitrosportsandrunner 04-04-2014 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeeBeMe (Post 11775868)
Hi.
I had a temp gun and I was using traxxas fuel "I know I know"

I haven't used traxxas fuel myself, but even if it is not the best...it wont ruin a motor during break in.

what temps were the motor running at?

it isn't that hard to disassemble a nitro motor. if something should be broken inside, taking it apart will reveal the problem right away.

phmaximus 04-04-2014 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeeBeMe (Post 11775817)
Hi guys. I was breaking in my hyper 7 today and got to my 3rd tank and my engine shut off.
I tried to start it up and notice, my pull start and flywheel won't move at all. I took the glow plug out and still won't move.
What should I do yall , send it back to the company or....?

Its hard to say..... If u were doing everything 100% as per manual then send it back.... But keep in mind if there is signs of user error they might charge u a fee for inspecting it. If its a warranty related problem they pay for it to be inspected... If its user error u pay.

id maby call the place that u brought it from for instructions.... I'd hate for u to start messing with the motor making the warranty void

PeeBeMe 04-04-2014 06:22 PM

3rd tank 190░

i8tweety 04-04-2014 06:45 PM

The piston could just be stuck at top dead center.

SyCo_VeNoM 04-04-2014 08:29 PM

Note on traxxas topfuel(the name is very misleading) main issue I had with it is it was over loaded with oil to the point it would be an oily mess. When I would run the RC you would see an oil trail coming out of the exhaust. I also had issues getting the vehicles to start swapped to odonell's and never had the issues again.

As for the engine problem could be a few things stuck at BDC, broken con rod, bushing in the conrod shatter where it would block the piston (I've had that happen once when the engine didn't get up to 270ish in breakin)

1QwkSport2.5r 04-05-2014 08:06 AM

Extra oil won't hurt during break-in, I use 14-18% oil to break in most of my car engines. Having extra oil allows a leaner needle setting which gives more rpm which gives more heat which helps the engine break in. This may make my method sound crude or wrong, but it works for me very well. Even in Traxxas 3.3's. I do change over to 20-30% nitro and 8-10% oil after a half gallon or so.

So I don't think fuel is the problem per sÚ but fuel mixture could be suspect. Too rich on the Low could load it up and cause a hydraulic lock. Check this first, pull the plug. If the piston won't come loose after it's cooled and sat for a few hours even with the plug out, I'd hit it with a hair dryer and get the engine good and warm (hotter is better IMO) and try moving the flywheel again. If nothing still, I'd proceed to pulling the engine and inspecting. I much prefer the more simpler approach at first. Sometimes it can save a lot of time.

rgburrill 04-05-2014 09:58 AM

Just remember, you open that engine you void the warranty.

SyCo_VeNoM 04-05-2014 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r (Post 11776160)
Too rich on the Low could load it up and cause a hydraulic lock.

Well the engine I said that broke its brass bushing on the conrod that is actually what happened it hydrolocked(would do it a lot actually), and the roto start that I was using button got jammed(side note I threw the roto starter out a little after that). Also it never would reach proper break in temps with stock settings (it hit like 170 on a 95 degree day after 20 mins...)

1QwkSport2.5r 04-05-2014 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SyCo_VeNoM (Post 11776227)
Well the engine I said that broke its brass bushing on the conrod that is actually what happened it hydrolocked(would do it a lot actually), and the roto start that I was using button got jammed(side note I threw the roto starter out a little after that). Also it never would reach proper break in temps with stock settings (it hit like 170 on a 95 degree day after 20 mins...)

If covering the head alone won't get it to heat up, you have to lean the needles down. Those OEM settings are only set to get the engine started. It's often overlooked in manuals so new guys don't always get the right information and their engine's life suffers because of it usually.

I've always had to lean the needles on my engines to get them hot enough when new.

PeeBeMe 04-05-2014 12:54 PM

Thanks guys.

PeeBeMe 04-05-2014 01:54 PM

You were right, I broke the rod. I guess I'll have to order another one this week.
Is it hard to change out/in the rods ?

PeeBeMe 04-05-2014 02:11 PM

Can I use another connecting rod from another engine ?

1QwkSport2.5r 04-05-2014 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeeBeMe (Post 11776328)
You were right, I broke the rod. I guess I'll have to order another one this week.
Is it hard to change out/in the rods ?

No, but make sure you didn't damage the piston or cylinder. If there are dings, you may be better off to replace the whole engine. A piston/liner, and conrod can cost 1/2-3/4 of what a whole engine costs. If you do just get the rod, get new wristpin clips for the piston. You don't really want to re-use the old ones. Replacing the rod is pretty easy and straight forward except the rod has to go on the crankshaft only one way (the side with the chamfer).


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