NEED HELP with Marui Ninja
06-22-2011, 08:09 PM
#1
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NEED HELP with Marui Ninja
Greetings!
Trying to restore my one, and only, REAL R/C car. I received it as a gift WAY BACK - pre-assembled/used with Airtronics 250 2-ch AM radio - so my familiarity with it is limitted. Looking for information on cross-references (canibalized-parts, upgrades, etc... that will work) to get it running. I may have the local machine shop mill me a gear-box and gears if it comes to that??? Sadly, this car was notorious for destroying diffs. After the last set (needs it's 3rd now) Isaid the heck with it and put it away for 20 yrs. I guess I was hoping to get into an RC-10 or something more reliable/common at the time. I put a w@nt3d add in the marketplace too, under the vintage section.
So far I've refurbished the speed controller, and one of the servo's is flaking-out... I've forgotten a lot of the electronics I studied 20+ yrs. ago - WIRE splices and nuts EVERYWHERE a mannual in .pdf would be VERY helpful if anyone knows where to find one.
Thanks!
Trying to restore my one, and only, REAL R/C car. I received it as a gift WAY BACK - pre-assembled/used with Airtronics 250 2-ch AM radio - so my familiarity with it is limitted. Looking for information on cross-references (canibalized-parts, upgrades, etc... that will work) to get it running. I may have the local machine shop mill me a gear-box and gears if it comes to that??? Sadly, this car was notorious for destroying diffs. After the last set (needs it's 3rd now) Isaid the heck with it and put it away for 20 yrs. I guess I was hoping to get into an RC-10 or something more reliable/common at the time. I put a w@nt3d add in the marketplace too, under the vintage section.
So far I've refurbished the speed controller, and one of the servo's is flaking-out... I've forgotten a lot of the electronics I studied 20+ yrs. ago - WIRE splices and nuts EVERYWHERE a mannual in .pdf would be VERY helpful if anyone knows where to find one.
Thanks!
11-14-2011, 08:51 AM
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RE: NEED HELP with Marui Ninja
Marui Ninja
aka:
Marui Shogun (had sway bars, metal diff gears)
Marui Coors Melling Thunderbird
I have a scan of the Ninja manual (and a physical one) and a list of screws, bearings, and things. I'm still cross-referencing gear-box and lower A-arm stuff. If you can cross-refence the gears themselves (I'm sure is possible, just time consuming), the car will probably run forever.
I have two of the mechanical speed controllers. If someone actually wants these things, I will gladly sell them. I'm only going ESC now.
I also have the drive shaft (aka center link) that links the front and rear gear boxes if someone needs one.
I have:
runner with near blown diff, Tamiya Sport Tuned 540 motor, Futaba electrics (ie ESC), 12mm axle hex conversion
near-runner w-o electrics, stock all the way
parts car
Bodies and decals:
Ninja Body and Wing (teambluegroov on Ebay)
Ninja decals (tamkyo-reprodecals on Ebay)
-I've purchased both the bodies and decals and they are recommended. If anything, these will give you an excuse to keep running the car.
Driver: ebay. One shows up every now and then. Better luck cross-referencing with HPI or Pro-Line.
-haven't tried one, but perhaps the Tamiya Avante driver would also work since that was just re-released.
Shocks: Same size as the Tamiya DF-02 chassis (3" front, 4" rear)
Stock wheels and tires: I see Rear sets show up all the time on ebay. I've resolved to just put rears on the front when I shelve it
Wheels/Axles: I've done a 12mm hex conversion on my running car so I can run modern wheels.
-uses the original front and rear hubs
HPI RS4 rear axles (need 2 sets, length is dead-on and meshes perfectly with the dog bone axles)
12mm locking hexes with 2x10mm pins (HPI or Tamiya)
4mm nylon nuts with toothed flange
5x10x4mm inner metal bearing (Traxxas)
5x10x3mm outer metal bearing (Team Associated)
-Note: You cannot run the 4mm bearings inside and outside unless you want a car with a parking brake. And running the 3mm both in and outside creates too much slop in the axle.
Wheels: (after the 12mm hex conversion, this will put you in the ballpark)
(again using the Tamiya DF-02 as a reference)
Front: 60x30mm
Rear: 60x35mm
-I currently run HPI's 57x35mm star wheels and M Compound Rally Tires
Chassis: I have not found a modern replacement, but a top-loading battery would be nice.
aka:
Marui Shogun (had sway bars, metal diff gears)
Marui Coors Melling Thunderbird
I have a scan of the Ninja manual (and a physical one) and a list of screws, bearings, and things. I'm still cross-referencing gear-box and lower A-arm stuff. If you can cross-refence the gears themselves (I'm sure is possible, just time consuming), the car will probably run forever.
I have two of the mechanical speed controllers. If someone actually wants these things, I will gladly sell them. I'm only going ESC now.
I also have the drive shaft (aka center link) that links the front and rear gear boxes if someone needs one.
I have:
runner with near blown diff, Tamiya Sport Tuned 540 motor, Futaba electrics (ie ESC), 12mm axle hex conversion
near-runner w-o electrics, stock all the way
parts car
Bodies and decals:
Ninja Body and Wing (teambluegroov on Ebay)
Ninja decals (tamkyo-reprodecals on Ebay)
-I've purchased both the bodies and decals and they are recommended. If anything, these will give you an excuse to keep running the car.
Driver: ebay. One shows up every now and then. Better luck cross-referencing with HPI or Pro-Line.
-haven't tried one, but perhaps the Tamiya Avante driver would also work since that was just re-released.
Shocks: Same size as the Tamiya DF-02 chassis (3" front, 4" rear)
Stock wheels and tires: I see Rear sets show up all the time on ebay. I've resolved to just put rears on the front when I shelve it
Wheels/Axles: I've done a 12mm hex conversion on my running car so I can run modern wheels.
-uses the original front and rear hubs
HPI RS4 rear axles (need 2 sets, length is dead-on and meshes perfectly with the dog bone axles)
12mm locking hexes with 2x10mm pins (HPI or Tamiya)
4mm nylon nuts with toothed flange
5x10x4mm inner metal bearing (Traxxas)
5x10x3mm outer metal bearing (Team Associated)
-Note: You cannot run the 4mm bearings inside and outside unless you want a car with a parking brake. And running the 3mm both in and outside creates too much slop in the axle.
Wheels: (after the 12mm hex conversion, this will put you in the ballpark)
(again using the Tamiya DF-02 as a reference)
Front: 60x30mm
Rear: 60x35mm
-I currently run HPI's 57x35mm star wheels and M Compound Rally Tires
Chassis: I have not found a modern replacement, but a top-loading battery would be nice.
11-17-2011, 10:14 PM
#5
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RE: NEED HELP with Marui Ninja
Found the manuals online by accident:
http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehicle-manuals/mauri-ninja-4wd-manual.pdf
http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehi...ird-manual.pdf
The thunderbird manual has the parts list and spare parts list in it. They are basically the same car except for the body posts, height adjustment, and alternate driver placement.
http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehicle-manuals/mauri-ninja-4wd-manual.pdf
http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehi...ird-manual.pdf
The thunderbird manual has the parts list and spare parts list in it. They are basically the same car except for the body posts, height adjustment, and alternate driver placement.
11-18-2011, 01:34 PM
#6
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RE: NEED HELP with Marui Ninja
Thanks for the help all! I stumbled on a limited supply of Gears, Cases, Screws, Tires/wheels, etc... Ninja parts on ebay - Check Midagekid's store. He has lots of parts and is great to deal with. Ebay was the best place - I got 2 more Ninjas, a Hunter, and a Coors since. I now have a nicely restored original Ninja roller as a result.
BTW: After test driving a Slash - I'll most likely shelve the Ninjas.
BTW: After test driving a Slash - I'll most likely shelve the Ninjas.
03-07-2012, 07:33 AM
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RE: NEED HELP with Marui Ninja
Hello there,
I was wondering if you still have the center prop shaft for Marui Ninja.
I am on a restoration project and I'm looking for one shaft.
Please let me know. Best regards,
Pascal
I was wondering if you still have the center prop shaft for Marui Ninja.
I am on a restoration project and I'm looking for one shaft.
Please let me know. Best regards,
Pascal
03-07-2012, 10:03 PM
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RE: NEED HELP with Marui Ninja
About the wheels: If you've done the 12mm axle conversion, just use the 2.2in size. You can find that wheel and tire size anywhere as I've come to realize that's the modern 1/10 buggy wheel.
Now finding red wheels is the hard part. May have to resort to painting some white wheels red.
Now finding red wheels is the hard part. May have to resort to painting some white wheels red.
ORIGINAL: cpear760
Marui Ninja
aka:
Marui Shogun (had sway bars, metal diff gears)
Marui Coors Melling Thunderbird
I have a scan of the Ninja manual (and a physical one) and a list of screws, bearings, and things. I'm still cross-referencing gear-box and lower A-arm stuff. If you can cross-refence the gears themselves (I'm sure is possible, just time consuming), the car will probably run forever.
I have two of the mechanical speed controllers. If someone actually wants these things, I will gladly sell them. I'm only going ESC now.
I also have the drive shaft (aka center link) that links the front and rear gear boxes if someone needs one.
I have:
runner with near blown diff, Tamiya Sport Tuned 540 motor, Futaba electrics (ie ESC), 12mm axle hex conversion
near-runner w-o electrics, stock all the way
parts car
Bodies and decals:
Ninja Body and Wing (teambluegroov on Ebay)
Ninja decals (tamkyo-reprodecals on Ebay)
-I've purchased both the bodies and decals and they are recommended. If anything, these will give you an excuse to keep running the car.
Driver: ebay. One shows up every now and then. Better luck cross-referencing with HPI or Pro-Line.
-haven't tried one, but perhaps the Tamiya Avante driver would also work since that was just re-released.
Shocks: Same size as the Tamiya DF-02 chassis (3" front, 4" rear)
Stock wheels and tires: I see Rear sets show up all the time on ebay. I've resolved to just put rears on the front when I shelve it
Wheels/Axles: I've done a 12mm hex conversion on my running car so I can run modern wheels.
-uses the original front and rear hubs
HPI RS4 rear axles (need 2 sets, length is dead-on and meshes perfectly with the dog bone axles)
12mm locking hexes with 2x10mm pins (HPI or Tamiya)
4mm nylon nuts with toothed flange
5x10x4mm inner metal bearing (Traxxas)
5x10x3mm outer metal bearing (Team Associated)
-Note: You cannot run the 4mm bearings inside and outside unless you want a car with a parking brake. And running the 3mm both in and outside creates too much slop in the axle.
Wheels: (after the 12mm hex conversion, this will put you in the ballpark)
(again using the Tamiya DF-02 as a reference)
Front: 60x30mm
Rear: 60x35mm
-I currently run HPI's 57x35mm star wheels and M Compound Rally Tires
Chassis: I have not found a modern replacement, but a top-loading battery would be nice.
Marui Ninja
aka:
Marui Shogun (had sway bars, metal diff gears)
Marui Coors Melling Thunderbird
I have a scan of the Ninja manual (and a physical one) and a list of screws, bearings, and things. I'm still cross-referencing gear-box and lower A-arm stuff. If you can cross-refence the gears themselves (I'm sure is possible, just time consuming), the car will probably run forever.
I have two of the mechanical speed controllers. If someone actually wants these things, I will gladly sell them. I'm only going ESC now.
I also have the drive shaft (aka center link) that links the front and rear gear boxes if someone needs one.
I have:
runner with near blown diff, Tamiya Sport Tuned 540 motor, Futaba electrics (ie ESC), 12mm axle hex conversion
near-runner w-o electrics, stock all the way
parts car
Bodies and decals:
Ninja Body and Wing (teambluegroov on Ebay)
Ninja decals (tamkyo-reprodecals on Ebay)
-I've purchased both the bodies and decals and they are recommended. If anything, these will give you an excuse to keep running the car.
Driver: ebay. One shows up every now and then. Better luck cross-referencing with HPI or Pro-Line.
-haven't tried one, but perhaps the Tamiya Avante driver would also work since that was just re-released.
Shocks: Same size as the Tamiya DF-02 chassis (3" front, 4" rear)
Stock wheels and tires: I see Rear sets show up all the time on ebay. I've resolved to just put rears on the front when I shelve it
Wheels/Axles: I've done a 12mm hex conversion on my running car so I can run modern wheels.
-uses the original front and rear hubs
HPI RS4 rear axles (need 2 sets, length is dead-on and meshes perfectly with the dog bone axles)
12mm locking hexes with 2x10mm pins (HPI or Tamiya)
4mm nylon nuts with toothed flange
5x10x4mm inner metal bearing (Traxxas)
5x10x3mm outer metal bearing (Team Associated)
-Note: You cannot run the 4mm bearings inside and outside unless you want a car with a parking brake. And running the 3mm both in and outside creates too much slop in the axle.
Wheels: (after the 12mm hex conversion, this will put you in the ballpark)
(again using the Tamiya DF-02 as a reference)
Front: 60x30mm
Rear: 60x35mm
-I currently run HPI's 57x35mm star wheels and M Compound Rally Tires
Chassis: I have not found a modern replacement, but a top-loading battery would be nice.
04-10-2012, 09:41 AM
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RE: NEED HELP with Marui Ninja
I wish I still had that Mauri Melling T Bird. I know there's 2 on ebay now but at over $600.00 each. A little out of my pocket range.
I think I may have some misc parts. I'll take pics and see if any you may need.
I think I may have some misc parts. I'll take pics and see if any you may need.
04-11-2012, 09:11 PM
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RE: NEED HELP with Marui Ninja
Ok, Thanks!
If you have gear box parts, I need those the most. Might be some Tamiya cross-referencing as the diff from the Hotshot/Boorang cars look a lot similar.
If you have gear box parts, I need those the most. Might be some Tamiya cross-referencing as the diff from the Hotshot/Boorang cars look a lot similar.
11-15-2016, 04:57 AM
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Holy thread revival !
Marui Ninja
aka:
Marui Shogun (had sway bars, metal diff gears)
Marui Coors Melling Thunderbird
I have a scan of the Ninja manual (and a physical one) and a list of screws, bearings, and things. I'm still cross-referencing gear-box and lower A-arm stuff. If you can cross-refence the gears themselves (I'm sure is possible, just time consuming), the car will probably run forever.
I have two of the mechanical speed controllers. If someone actually wants these things, I will gladly sell them. I'm only going ESC now.
I also have the drive shaft (aka center link) that links the front and rear gear boxes if someone needs one.
I have:
runner with near blown diff, Tamiya Sport Tuned 540 motor, Futaba electrics (ie ESC), 12mm axle hex conversion
near-runner w-o electrics, stock all the way
parts car
Bodies and decals:
Ninja Body and Wing (teambluegroov on Ebay)
Ninja decals (tamkyo-reprodecals on Ebay)
-I've purchased both the bodies and decals and they are recommended. If anything, these will give you an excuse to keep running the car.
Driver: ebay. One shows up every now and then. Better luck cross-referencing with HPI or Pro-Line.
-haven't tried one, but perhaps the Tamiya Avante driver would also work since that was just re-released.
Shocks: Same size as the Tamiya DF-02 chassis (3" front, 4" rear)
Stock wheels and tires: I see Rear sets show up all the time on ebay. I've resolved to just put rears on the front when I shelve it
Wheels/Axles: I've done a 12mm hex conversion on my running car so I can run modern wheels.
-uses the original front and rear hubs
HPI RS4 rear axles (need 2 sets, length is dead-on and meshes perfectly with the dog bone axles)
12mm locking hexes with 2x10mm pins (HPI or Tamiya)
4mm nylon nuts with toothed flange
5x10x4mm inner metal bearing (Traxxas)
5x10x3mm outer metal bearing (Team Associated)
-Note: You cannot run the 4mm bearings inside and outside unless you want a car with a parking brake. And running the 3mm both in and outside creates too much slop in the axle.
Wheels: (after the 12mm hex conversion, this will put you in the ballpark)
(again using the Tamiya DF-02 as a reference)
Front: 60x30mm
Rear: 60x35mm
-I currently run HPI's 57x35mm star wheels and M Compound Rally Tires
Chassis: I have not found a modern replacement, but a top-loading battery would be nice.
aka:
Marui Shogun (had sway bars, metal diff gears)
Marui Coors Melling Thunderbird
I have a scan of the Ninja manual (and a physical one) and a list of screws, bearings, and things. I'm still cross-referencing gear-box and lower A-arm stuff. If you can cross-refence the gears themselves (I'm sure is possible, just time consuming), the car will probably run forever.
I have two of the mechanical speed controllers. If someone actually wants these things, I will gladly sell them. I'm only going ESC now.
I also have the drive shaft (aka center link) that links the front and rear gear boxes if someone needs one.
I have:
runner with near blown diff, Tamiya Sport Tuned 540 motor, Futaba electrics (ie ESC), 12mm axle hex conversion
near-runner w-o electrics, stock all the way
parts car
Bodies and decals:
Ninja Body and Wing (teambluegroov on Ebay)
Ninja decals (tamkyo-reprodecals on Ebay)
-I've purchased both the bodies and decals and they are recommended. If anything, these will give you an excuse to keep running the car.
Driver: ebay. One shows up every now and then. Better luck cross-referencing with HPI or Pro-Line.
-haven't tried one, but perhaps the Tamiya Avante driver would also work since that was just re-released.
Shocks: Same size as the Tamiya DF-02 chassis (3" front, 4" rear)
Stock wheels and tires: I see Rear sets show up all the time on ebay. I've resolved to just put rears on the front when I shelve it
Wheels/Axles: I've done a 12mm hex conversion on my running car so I can run modern wheels.
-uses the original front and rear hubs
HPI RS4 rear axles (need 2 sets, length is dead-on and meshes perfectly with the dog bone axles)
12mm locking hexes with 2x10mm pins (HPI or Tamiya)
4mm nylon nuts with toothed flange
5x10x4mm inner metal bearing (Traxxas)
5x10x3mm outer metal bearing (Team Associated)
-Note: You cannot run the 4mm bearings inside and outside unless you want a car with a parking brake. And running the 3mm both in and outside creates too much slop in the axle.
Wheels: (after the 12mm hex conversion, this will put you in the ballpark)
(again using the Tamiya DF-02 as a reference)
Front: 60x30mm
Rear: 60x35mm
-I currently run HPI's 57x35mm star wheels and M Compound Rally Tires
Chassis: I have not found a modern replacement, but a top-loading battery would be nice.
Thanks
