quantumreality

I need some help please, from someone familiar with vintage Team Associated RC10T & B (truck & buggy), so I can get these vintage RC's running. I recently purchased a lot of RC trucks and buggies, mostly vintage. They consisted mostly of Tamiya and Team Associated RC's. Most were late 1980's to early and mid 1990's. What I noticed on the Team Associated RC10T, the truck with the black, hard anodized pan chassis, and on the gold pan buggy chassis, is that they have an older Novak ESC, with a Tamiya plug soldered on it, and they also came with older Futaba, 2 channel receivers, which has a channel designated for "battery". From what I remember back in the early 1990's, there was, I think a Futaba J connector/plug, or a universal receiver plug, that had to be plugged into the battery channel on the receiver (Futaba) in order to get the RC's running. How would I actually have to wire these to get them running? Since they're already wired up to Novak ESC's that have a Tamiya plug soldered on them? I can't just plug in a NiMH stick pack and get it to run. I need to plug something into the battery channel on the receiver also. Are their batteries, like NiMH, that have both a Tamiya plug as well as a second connector, thats plugs into the receiver? Is anyone aware of, a setup or battery, that contains a Tamiya plug, to plug into the ESC, and a second connector, like J or JST, that plugs into the "battery" channel of the receiver. I know a battery has to be plugged into the receiver, in order to run the vintage RC10's? I guess I'm looking for a battery, where a connector for the receiver, somehow, piggybacks off the battery, and the battery also has a Tamiya battery plug? Is this correct? If not, how would I get these RC10's running, when they've already been wired up with Novak ESC and already contain a Futaba steering servo, which obviously is plugged into the receiver, along with the connector for the speed control, Novak? Any help about batteries, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

Big Alice

steering servo plugs into ch 1. esc plugs into ch 2. Nothing goes in the batt slot on the receiver. You can put a transponder in the batt slot if you're racing. your receiver gets it's power through the esc connection. < should run like that. if not, chrystals might be mismatched. you need to get rid of the tamyia plugs. They'll melt if you put a hot motor in there. deans are good.

You can get a manual here > http://www.teamassociated.com/manuals/RC10T/ The radio installation is in section 3. They even show it with an old Novak speed control. 10T's were a good truck. I still have one.

althepal88

My Feedback: (31)

For your info also, you can disconnect the Novak and plug in a 4 cell nicad or nimh receiver pack to test the radio and servos. Don't do it without disconnecting the Novak first. At least then you will know if your radio system is working. Use Deans plugs on your battery/esc connector (or similar). Try to use the same connectors for everything, makes it much easier. You can still buy older crystals for the Futaba, but the early units had their problems when you had a bunch of racers racing. For just backyard bashing, you'll be fine. If you want to race them, just go with a new 2.4 system; they can be had very cheap; but I would recommend either a Spektrum, Airtronics or Futaba system. All of your servos should be compatable (if they aren't too old), and with a new system all you need is a one decent transmitter and you can get several rx's instead of a separate system for each car. As far as the Novak goes, if it is blown you will have to replace it. Some of the older ESCs just aren't serviced any longer. DO NOT REVERSE WIRE IT UP! Hope it helps.

althepal88

My Feedback: (31)

Oh yeah. Make sure your motor is good. If it is shorted out, it will blow your Novak. Charge up a 6 cell pack and directly connect it to the motor to check it out (hold on tight). Back in the day, we used a separate rx battery pack and the throttle was a "barrel resistor" and a wiper arm that was attached to a servo and placed in the car. Then we tried a dropping diode hooked up to the barrel resistor speed control and eliminated the rx pack. Sometimes they would blow, sometimes the rx would go up in smoke. Thankfully Bob Novak came along with his ESC and the rest is history.

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

I have the TA gold pan RC10. (80's) and it required a receiver 4.8v battery pack. The 9.6v power battery goes into a servo controled rehostat amd no reverse.
I am planning on going to an ESC with reverse and a BEC to simplify everything. Oh, and a Lipo battery.

What I need to know is what amp esc for 3s power that also has a LVCutoff.
Also trying to find a clear body that will fit.