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  1. #501
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Hey vert,

    Are you familiar with the exact procedure to strengthen the horiz. stab of the Corsair w/ carbon strip from tip to tip w/out disturbing the fuselage?

    Can u read any of my previous unanswered questions from the last post as well?

    THANKS, much APPRECIATED!

    root aka Bob G
    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  2. #502
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Hey nexxa,

    how did you do this carbon fiber support?

    what thickness did you use?

    Is it one strip thru one side and out the other?

    How did you attach it to the tip?

    epoxy carbon to balsa??

    Is there a less visible way?

    ??

    root aka Bob G

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    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  3. #503
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Hey borisp, can you help to answer these questions?

    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  4. #504
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Happy Thanksgiving Everybody...and THANKS for helping a fellow member........shhheeeeeeeeesh!

    root aka Bob G
    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  5. #505

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Hi "Root", you’re lucky! I was spending some time one the forum and I saw your post! If you want a quick answer, post your questions and send an email. I will be advice! I spend a lot of time in Speed Planes forum
    Excuse my English! I’m French!

    I buy 3 of these small combat planes. 2 Mustang and 1 Corsair. I almost lost my first Mustang due to elevator failure. I decide to beef it up by adding a carbon rod in the elevator and laminated it with a 3/32 balsa sheet. It was very strong after.

    The second mustang I just remove the covering under the elevator before gluing it to the plane and add a layer of glass fiber with zpoxy. Little sanding, put back the covering and install it. Very strong, but finally after many high speed pass, the control horn failed. No more elevators. Total lost.

    The Corsair, I try another method. Very light, strong, easy to install.
    I used 1/8 carbon rod (full, no hole in center.) I drill for each side of the fuselage a hole and same in the elevator. But when drilling the elevator I don’t pass through. Put some thin CA in the hole to reinforce the wood. Put some Epoxy 30 min and the rod. That's it.
    I will try to find some better pictures. Stay tune!




  6. #506

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    I'm a real artist!

    Look the attach picture.
    Rear view of the Corsair with the elevator on.

    The Β± green color is the balsa, black color carbon rod, gray color epoxy. It`s how I glue my carbon rod in place.
    Very strong or strong enough!! I put this setup on real test with high altitude speed dive.

    Don`t worry, it will stand the load, but reinforce the wood where the control horn is attach. The control horn will come off or will become very fragile.

    Hope this help.


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  7. #507
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Thanks,

    It looks like you used a flat piece of carbon - not a rod. Yes? ************SEE attached photo***********

    But how and why do you reinforce the control horn?

    Is there that much stress that it goes thru?

    How do you do this?

    Can I glue 2 control hinges to the top and bottom as a plate-like surface as the Diamond Dust plans suggest or should I use two 1/16th plywood plates CA'd to the balsa top and bottom? ************SEE attached photo***********

    One more question......Is a rudder worth the added wieght of the servo and rod??

    I'll be using a 25FX w/a APC 9x5 or 6 prop on 18/23 fuel.

    root

    ps Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours. I am thankful you responded to my posts.
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    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  8. #508

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    No, it's not a flat piece of carbon. It's a Rod 1/8" (round). I install these 2 rods to add stiffness to the stab. When it’s done, no worry to break in half the elevator if you’re pulling the elevator to the max in a big dive. It will stand the force. But if you reinforce the stab, it will break at another weak point. Yes you can laminate both side of elevator and screw your control horn on it. Just remove the covering, place your CA hinge and put thin CA. Like the Diamond dust. Me I use 1/16 plywood both side, maybe 1 1/2" by 3/4".
    All these mods are not required if you fly your corsair gently, with a .15 or .25. Mine was equipped first with an OS.25, in second with an OS.32SX with full tune pipe. Always full throttle, always pulling hard on the elevator for High G turn, high speed pass.... a lot of stress. Mine broke in half after only three flights, and the engine was still in broke in process!
    The second one, the control horn was still screw to the elevator section, but this section was no more part of the elevator!!! The elevator fails where the control horn was screw.
    For the rudder on the corsair, there are no worries about the weight if you're using a micro servo. Use the extra rod provide in the kit. The Corsair is light and the wing loading is low. The extra weigh will not affect its flight characteristic. On mine, I put front and rear wheels. Maybe Β± 8 oz of extra weight. With the OS.25 it take off in only 20 feet (APC 10X3 or 10X4) and the landing was very easy.
    If you have the patience to do the mod, go for it. On landing, with a small crosswind, the rudder is very helpful. Are just to put the plane on a small knife edge when making a low pass, it worth the work!

    I will check tonigh if I could find some pictures...






  9. #509

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang


    ORIGINAL: root

    Hey borisp, can you help to answer these questions?

    Hi root,

    Really sorry I haven't replied any sooner, but I have never modified my Corsair in any way so I can't help you with that. Still I'll try to answer on some of your questions:

    I don't think rudder is a necessary mod.
    Hammerheads can be done without rudder, but it's not so much the question of doing it with ailerons, it's more throttle management and stopping her in vertical but slightly leaned on either wing.
    Cross wind situations? You don't need rudder for that. You will see you can fly her sideways just with ailerons
    Also flaperons not needed.

    In one word she's a great plane out of the box, just one thing: watch your speed on dives and if you don't go over .25 motor you'll be safe, otherwise some reinforcement could be necessary.

    Again, sorry for not being able to help you more regarding reinforcement issues.
    Boris

  10. #510

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Just to avoid missunderstandings, nothing against rudder control it's a very nice addon specially on the wheels, just saying it's not neccesary.
    Boris

  11. #511

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang


    ORIGINAL: borisp

    Well, I did it!!! I launched her inverted, and it's definitely a way to go (at least for me).

    Instead of a flight report, a friend of mine had a camera, and was so kind to place on his web site a short video clip (less than 300 Kb) of a first launch attempt. So please take look at:

    [link]http://www.flightmadness.com/video/corsair.avi[/link]


    Some important details you cannot see from the clip:

    - Elevator down trim was about 30-40 % of a full recommended down throw. It was a bit over trimmed, 25 - 30% (2 - 3 mm) would be just enough, I guess.
    - Throttle was at 50 - 70 % of a full throttle (OS-25 FX + APC 9x6).

    And a bit of advice: if you have at least minimum positive rate of climb, just concentrate on ailerons and don't touch elevator or throttle commands until you reach a safe altitude. Of course, if she sinks or it is extremely over trimmed you'll have to correct it, but do it very gently.

    I would also recommend practice of inverted flight before trying an inverted launch. The day before I took my electric powered Corsair (from Alfa Models) and made 6 successful inverted launches with that one, just for a practice.

    Just realized the above link to the video is broken. No wonder, it was more than two years ago [X(]. Since it's so interesting and very short - here it is again ...

    [link]http://rcuvideos.com/item/6MJ3H09L6QWJBDSZ[/link]
    Boris

  12. #512
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Thanks,

    My flying buddies all say that I read too much in these forums and I guess I needed to hear from experienced Combat Corsair / 25FX owners, such as yourself, whether or not the mods are a necessity.

    I'm sort of in a hurry to find out ASAP 'cause the planes arriving t'morow and it's my 55th birthday, the wind is gonna be rippin' at 15 to 20 so.........what better day would there be to start building this little beauty?

    Plus, I'm always looking for less to hassle with. As it is now, it'll probably take me twice as long as anyone else. I'm a better pilot than I am a builder...even if it is just an ARF.

    Can I install the rudder after I glue the Stab in or is that gonna make it too much of a PITA?

    Anybody else out there who has the 25 sized motor want to chime in and make a comment about leaving the plane "as is"?

    root aka Bob G

    ps ---my bud Ed says to keep it lite, why add the weight?
    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  13. #513

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Well then, happy birthday Bob !!!

    I would say you should not have any serious problem installing rudder afterwards, if you decide to do so.
    Boris

  14. #514
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    nexxa and or borisp -

    how will the extra weight of tan extra HS 85MG rudder servo effect the CG.

    there will then be 4 of them in the plane along with a throttle servo..

    probably a HS81.

    Do you think I'm going to need to add nose weight even if I put the 1.3 ounce battery up front with the tank?

    root
    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  15. #515

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    After seeing one fly all stock (3 servos, OS.25, no wheels or any king of mod). I know it will fly perfectly and for long. But reinforce the stab with carbon or beefing up the elevator section where you screw the control horn it’s a must.
    Adding rudder control can be done after installing the elevator without problem.

    Mine after adding the rudder servo (only to control the rear wheel), main wheels, carbon rods to the stab, it become tail heavy. I put the battery just behind the tank and epoxy 4oz to the firewall to put back the CG at the right point. With more patience, I could put the battery behind the firewall (small pack 270 mAh), and remove these weights.

    At that time I was not afraid by the plane weight. It very easy to take off on wheels. But for a Hand lunching, keep the weight down as you can to avoid torque roll on take off.

    The servo tray is not far from the CG point, adding an extra servo will not affect the CG a lot... maybe 1/6 oz on firewall!!! But all the rudder's mods, maybe 1 oz on firewall.
    For me, no worries.

    Happy birthday "root"!

    Oh, by the way, I don't have better pictures of my Corsair. And I sell it this summer.

  16. #516
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Thanks for the information. As long as the rudder can be added after the fact, then that's what I'm going to do. First, I want to see how the CG and All-Up-Weight is without the rudder installed.

    The covering was pretty wrinkled out of the box and the heat gun did a fine job until I burned the rear of the fuse by the elevator. Oh well.

    I used a 256 to replace the "angel hair" elevator control rod

    As this thread explains earlier, one half of the engine mount snapped in half as I screwed in the self tapping screws that were supplied. I tried an adjustable GP mount that I had to dremel off the nose wheel holes and it didn't give me the clearence for the throttle arm, not to mention the engine prop washer sat too far from the 3&1/4" distance required as per instructions.

    A call to Great Planes got me a Dave Brown replacement. I'll just have to skip the engine related steps till I get the delivery since my LHS does not have this size in stock.

    The book says to epoxy the ring to the fuse and the cowl and they don't tell you that it's permanent. The tech at GP says you have the option of skipping that step.

    Is it my imagination or is the cowl ring and cowl set up a pain in the neck?

    Anybody got any Tips about this?

    root

    ps...has anyone used the antennae tube for the rudder control rod instead??
    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  17. #517

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Yep, the motor mount is fragile. My 2 cents, I always drill and tap before I screw in motor mount. I buy all the basic tap bit (2-56, 4-40, 6-32, 1/4") at local hardware store. If you don't tap before, there's chance it will break later under stress. If you can, drill a size smaller. It help alot!

    I use supplied motor mount in all my GP Combat kit, I hard land more than ounce and never broke one. But I don't remember what king of screw they provide in the kit to fix the engine. Me I drill, tap and use 2-56 3/4" screw for my OS.32 and smaller engine.

    Yes, you can use the rudder push rod tubing to route the antenna. On my corsair pics, you can see it.

    Cowling installation:
    - I screw only the ring to the firewall.
    - I put the cowling on; adjust it correctly (no glue at this time). Check from the side, top and front for alignment. When I’m sure of the position. I use tick CA to tack it in place. Like 4 drops. When the CA as cure, unscrews the cowling assembly, and put your epoxy. Wipe all excess epoxy on the firewall side. Inside the cowling, you can use epoxy with microballon or backing soda, and make a nice joint.
    - After that, put some Saran wrap or paper wax on the firewall and screw the assembly back until it set. Airplane nose up!

    Hope this help, but if your like me... maybe you have already finish your cowling assembly!



  18. #518
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Thanks again, nexxa,

    I'm waiting for the Dave Brown engine mount to be delivered before I start measuring exactly where to put the cowl ring. I will follow your advice though.

    In the meantime, I've been looking for pictures of Corsairs that had Marine trim for an alternative to the Great Planes decal placement. This is what I've found so far from the Google image search engine.


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    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  19. #519

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    I found these videos on my computer!

    GP Corsair Combat First flight

    GP Corsair Combat Windy day

    GP Combat P51 sound barrier!- 1

    GP Combat P51 end of season- 2

    The quality is medium, but it's hard to find at good camera man!


  20. #520
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Good God nexxa,

    What engine is in that P-51 and what % fuel are you feeding it??

    What mods did you do for it to withstand the stress of the speed?

    I can't get over how fast that sucker was moving.......pppphhhhheeeeeeeeeewwwwwww! Oh yeah, and the Corsair was nice too. Thanks for the short rush.

    root

    ps the Dave Brown mount that GP sent me as a replacement doesn't work cause it covers the fuel tank opening......i thought i might be able to cut it but then there wouldn't be any top mounting bolts...not a good thing......back to the drawing board!
    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  21. #521

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Good lock with your Corsair and engine installation!
    Post some pics before you fly it! Just in case


    P51:
    OS.32SX
    Mac tune pipe and header
    APC 9X6 for max acceleration
    APC 8.3X7 (9X7 cutdown) for max speed
    20% Nitro

    There are no major modifications on this one. Before gluing the 2 wings half together, I use thin CA everywhere inside each panel to reinforce the balsa and joint. Joint it with 30 minutes epoxy. I seal all hinges gap with gray ultracote or monokote.
    I don't use the CA hinge provide in kit. I broke it all on my first P51 after 1 or 2 flights. I use standard CA hinge.
    Reinforce the firewall with epoxy and glass long fiber. Revise all joint inside fuse with thin CA. Put 2 layers of fiberglass inside the cowling (bottom). It prevent crack on landing.
    I did not touch the elevator on this one, because it was very stiff out of the box.

  22. #522
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    nexxa,

    What servos would you recommend if I used a 32sx such as yours?

    How's about one HS225MG for the dual aileron, one HS225MG for the Elevator and a HS85mg for the throttle?

    Is this overkill even at the speeds you were going?

    root
    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  23. #523

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    My first one was equipped with cheap micro servos all around (SL300). Only 30 oz of torque. I made a full season with these servos without problem, but I was always gentle with elevator when pulling on the stick after a big dive! But for standard flying, they were perfect.

    http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodId=EXRSL300

    My second one was equipped with JR368 servos on elevator and ailerons. Very strong and precise servos, but very expensive for this plane! I took what I have under hand!
    http://www.jrradios.com/Products/Tec...odID=JRPS368BB

    For your Hitec HS225MG, they will stand the load without problem and for less than 30$! They are cheap for what they're giving. The same spec with JR is more like 99$!
    The important thing is the ball bearings on the output gear and Metal gear.
    Cheap servo with nylon gears strip easily on stress. I think it's more important to always keep the control than have a high torque servo with nylon gear. If they strip, the torque is no more useful!!!

    Personally, I tried only 3 brand in radio stuff. Futaba, Hitec and JR. I finally stick on JR for the past 3 years. Never add trouble with radios, receivers or servos. But like everything in every brand there is good stuff and bad stuff. You have what you pay for!


  24. #524
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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    I'm finally done with the Corsair. I had to put a Harry Higley heavy spinner hub (2OZ.) on the nose to get it to balance at the 2 1/4 mark.

    I guess the 256 rods and the extra weight of the three 85mg's and one 85BB along with the epoxy (instead of the recommended CA) for the horizontal stab pushed me over the limit.

    My friend told me to blow off the nut and washer for the prop - the Higley can be used as both and will shorten the "look".

    I used 4 pieces of window screen threaded together as a baffle for inside the cowel. It seems to block the wind just enough and looks better than being open IMHO.

    Now if the weather would just cooperate ......

    root

    p.s. - I just got the Mustang today and the 32sx is in the mail.
    Merry Christmas to me.
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    \"I should have zigged instead of zagged\"

  25. #525

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    RE: Great Planes Combat Corsair and Mustang

    Nice, finally done!

    Like your friend said, you can remove the washer and nut and just keep the spinner hub. It’s more esthetic!

    Mine too was tail heavy by 2 or 3 oz. But don't worried, it will fly just fine and I don't think you will notice the extra weight.
    Just a tip follows the travel recommendations for the controls surface and put some exponential, like 30%.

    Cool for the Mustang and the .32SX, you will have fun to fly this little thing, I promise! But for this one, Weight is crucial, keep it light as you can. Once in the air you will not notice, but on hand launch every once count.

    Good luck with the corsair...




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