Spad glue
02-11-2003, 12:10 PM
#2
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Spad glue
"Flaming" or "Flashing" Coroplast
We use medium CA glue for wing building, as well as tacking tail feathers and control horns in place while drilling for screws.
In order for the glue to hold, the Coroplast areas to be glued must be "FLASHED" first!!! Practice this on technique on a piece of scrap Coroplast first!
Pass a medium flame from a butane or propane torch directly over the plastic slow enough to burn the manufacturing oils out of the plastic, but fast enough not to burn the plastic! It only takes SECONDS and there is very little evidence you have done anything. You may see a slight vapor wave on the plastic in front of the flame and the plastic may turn a darker color and warp slightly...it will return to normal in several seconds.
If the plastic ripples or turns shiney...you are nanoseconds away from melting it!!!
When gluing plastic to plastic...USE ONLY ONE DROP OF MEDIUM CA EVERY 1/4" TO 1/2" OR SO!!! USING TOO MUCH GLUE IS THE BIGGEST MISTAKE HERE! A bead of glue is too much and may not set up.
Also, it is imperative that the parts DO NOT MOVE AT ALL after initial contact.
Very helpful hint: If you live in a dry climate, or have trouble getting the CA to work, a slight mist of water from a spray bottle, on the opposing surface to be glued, can be used to help the CA activate!
Helpfull hint from Chunky C:
In addition to flashing, it has been found that cleaning the surface with mineral spirits and roughing up the surface helps as well. I use a "greeny" or Scotch Brite pad soaked in mineral sprits to clean and roughen the surface. I then flash the coro a second time. The thing to remember here is, find one technique that works for you and stick with it. Everyone has their own way of gluing coro.
We use medium CA glue for wing building, as well as tacking tail feathers and control horns in place while drilling for screws.
In order for the glue to hold, the Coroplast areas to be glued must be "FLASHED" first!!! Practice this on technique on a piece of scrap Coroplast first!
Pass a medium flame from a butane or propane torch directly over the plastic slow enough to burn the manufacturing oils out of the plastic, but fast enough not to burn the plastic! It only takes SECONDS and there is very little evidence you have done anything. You may see a slight vapor wave on the plastic in front of the flame and the plastic may turn a darker color and warp slightly...it will return to normal in several seconds.
If the plastic ripples or turns shiney...you are nanoseconds away from melting it!!!
When gluing plastic to plastic...USE ONLY ONE DROP OF MEDIUM CA EVERY 1/4" TO 1/2" OR SO!!! USING TOO MUCH GLUE IS THE BIGGEST MISTAKE HERE! A bead of glue is too much and may not set up.
Also, it is imperative that the parts DO NOT MOVE AT ALL after initial contact.
Very helpful hint: If you live in a dry climate, or have trouble getting the CA to work, a slight mist of water from a spray bottle, on the opposing surface to be glued, can be used to help the CA activate!
Helpfull hint from Chunky C:
In addition to flashing, it has been found that cleaning the surface with mineral spirits and roughing up the surface helps as well. I use a "greeny" or Scotch Brite pad soaked in mineral sprits to clean and roughen the surface. I then flash the coro a second time. The thing to remember here is, find one technique that works for you and stick with it. Everyone has their own way of gluing coro.
02-11-2003, 01:32 PM
#3
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Spad glue
As a newbe to spad I have followed Tattoo's instructions EXACTLY, and after building 4 spads in 2 weeks (1 trainer and 3 derelicts) his instructions work perfect!
02-11-2003, 04:23 PM
#4
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What holds even better than CA is contact cement. Not the 3M spray stuff. I am talking about the stuff they use to laminate counter tops. It takes longer to glue together and you have to scuff the coroplast. But it doesn't seem to crack like CA and if you can't stand CA odors, the contact cement has a "happier" odor.
02-12-2003, 12:15 PM
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