Reverse_Sensing

Do any of you guys know of some low heat shrink wrap that can be used to cover foam? I know it is going to be a delicate application but can you guys recommend a specific manufacturer or type? As usual, thanks a bunch

Montague

If you mean the conventional heat shrink films, Ultracote and Econokote/towerkote both can work over foam.

Demon

Personal preference is EconoKote. TowerKote is brittle and tends to shatter. UltraCote is by far the most expensive of the three but isn't much different than EconoKote.

HTH,
D

Mr.Me

if you can, get solar film.
i don't know if it's still in production but i was covering my eaglet 50 and touched the iron to a piece of blu-cor and it just kinda sat there.
my little iron kinda got stuck but the big one didn't do anything
be careful if you do get it, it's easy to burn

Regards,

Nick

cashrc

My Feedback: (2)

I have used tape, econokote, ultrakote, and occasionally monokote on blue foam. You can use monokote, if the plane is taped beforehand with bidi or strapping tape. Econokote is okay, but it's not very fuel proof. IMHO, Ultrakote is by far the best heatshrink covering for foam, I'm about to try som Black Baron film soon on Ed Kettler's P-70 (A20 night fighter variant)

Cash

Alex Treneff

Towerkote is nice because it is Tower Hobbies' re-labeled Econokote, but is $1 per roll cheaper. If you're going to order covering from Tower either way, might as well save a few $.

Demon

Sorry Alex, but I beg to differ. Those two coverings act very similarly under the same heat from an iron. But, EconoKote is far more pliable at room temperature. TowerKote is quite brittle and does shatter where EconoKote will stretch and bend.

Just my experience with the two...
D

cashrc

My Feedback: (2)

Also, I've used a real light covering called Litekote (I think).it's very light, designed for very lightweight e-models, and it works pretty good, as long as you don't let the adhesive side touch itself..then it's like saran wrap, and you'll play merry hobb getting it apart. Takes paint well, though, and goes on at very low heat with good controlled shrinkage, and no tendency to develop wrinkles later on..

Hey Darin, how ya been?

Cash

cashrc

My Feedback: (2)

Hangar 9 sells a product alongside Ultrakote that is called Easykote. I've used it, it works well, it's a bit lighter than Ultrakote.It's not available in military colors, but they do have a dark green and black. It's on Hangar 9's website, mixed in among the Ultrakote. It's not real cheap, kinda priced in the middle of all the coverings, but I see it on sale once in a while..

Demon

Hey Cash,
Doin' pretty good here, thanks. Working hard and spending weekends with my kids knocked me almost clean off the Combat Map, but I still keep a close eye on things. [8D]

How's things down your way? Still keeping Ed in line?
D

cashrc

My Feedback: (2)

Doin' good, Darin, Ed and I are still trying to drum up scale in the Texas area. Dunno if I'm keeping Ed in line or it's the other way around, though..

Cash

rcfury

My Feedback: (5)

Ive used econokote on my combat planes great success, and no harm will be done to the foam itself. However with most heatshrink films is that its not all that durable, and by the most part combat is not a gentle sport. I now use good ol' 3m-77 and rip stop nylon. Heavier, but strong as nails.

The Internet Killer

In a thread about a screwed up Avenger wing I asked about super 77 and ripstop and/or tyvek, I was told that there is a problem of the ripstop lifting and creating a bubble on wet mornings and with weather changes. I asked if the coated (non breathing type) of ripstop would be better, but got no answer. I have done limited testing with tyvek, super 77 and 3M hi-strenght 90 and was able to get it to stick as well as BiDi (they both pulled off a thin layer of foam).

Any more input would be apprectated. thanks

Martin