RC Drifting Discuss all aspects of rc drifting here!

"M" class RWD drifter!

Reply

Old 12-01-2014, 01:00 AM
  #1  
gokemidoro
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sequim, WA
Posts: 888
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default "M" class RWD drifter!

Hello all!

Been a while. doing weird stuff. Like this.......






As anyone familiar with Tamiya's "M" series chassis can see, this is an M05, but the new model....the ver.II Pro. It has also been reversed, to a RWD drifter. The only real things missing are the drift tires (more on those later). The entire idea is an old one - approx a year ago, someone posted a vid on Youtube about this very conversion. It intrigued me enough to want to do it, And with the ver.II Pro coming out, it was a no-brainer.
The M05 in the vid used a different type of front suspension/steer set-up that is popular in Japan. I tried to use as much of the kit's parts where I could, just to see if it can be done, and you would be surprised to learn just how little extra is required to make this conversion.

That said, the model was weighted, in the pod that now makes up it's front end. I'm not certain about the amount, but suffice to say the compartment is filled with 3/1`6th's diameter pieces of lead wire held in with Shoe-Goo. This makes both ends weigh the same, so technically, this model with a good rear diff could conceivably make a good converted RWD racer, too.
As can be seen in the pics, there is a gyro tucked in between the RX and Servo. The unit is an HPI D-Box 2. The motor size is 4600KV, which, I am finding, is a bit anemic, so am going to try the 5700Kv motor. The ESC is the Castle Sidewinder 3.

The body is no longer available and would it surprise anyone to learn that that particular body is six years old, and sat at the bottom of the closet for five of those years?

Now, on to drift tires for "M" class chassis:

There are pathetically few companies making tires for this class, and even fewer making anything drift-worthy. So far, all the companies I've tried make them too hard for smooth concrete or asphalt. I have another set from yet another company coming, so will give an accounting, as soon as they arrive and are tested. There really is only one company that makes tires that will work, but they are out-of-stock pretty much everywhere.

HPI T-Drifts.


Anyone wanting to know any particulars I didn't go through here, just ask! This conversion was relatively easy, and by using the components I did, will save a few bucks for drift tires. So far, the only companies making "M" class size tires are:

ABC Hobby (though they are hard to get a hold of, and they're out-of-stock just about everywhere)
Tamiya (again, when they're available)
Ride (these come in "H" and "S" compounds - I've tried the "H" - too hard)
HPI T-Drifts in mini size (really the best all-around compound)

I have a set of Ride "S" compounds coming, so they will be tested andf reviewed as soon as I can get it done.

FYI:

RWD drift chassis are very dependent on the compound of the tire far more than 4WD drift chassis, basically because only two wheels are propelling the chassis, as well as providing the amount of slide. Very slippery tires will overpower the gyro, making drifts nearly impossible, yet on the other, too much grip will not allow the chassis to drift with any appreciable control, either. In this case, having as many different types of tire would work to the driver's benefit, especially since there aren't many compounds available, having as many as possible will increase the chances of finding a good tire/surface combo.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1956.JPG
Views:	2880
Size:	104.6 KB
ID:	2051375   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1957.JPG
Views:	5878
Size:	135.6 KB
ID:	2051376   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1959.JPG
Views:	3032
Size:	184.7 KB
ID:	2051377   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1958.JPG
Views:	4591
Size:	163.9 KB
ID:	2051378   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1960.JPG
Views:	3303
Size:	150.4 KB
ID:	2051379   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1961.JPG
Views:	2861
Size:	108.1 KB
ID:	2051380   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1962.JPG
Views:	2542
Size:	117.7 KB
ID:	2051381   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1963.JPG
Views:	5581
Size:	98.9 KB
ID:	2051382  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1964.JPG
Views:	2740
Size:	132.2 KB
ID:	2051383   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1965.JPG
Views:	2387
Size:	105.2 KB
ID:	2051384   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1966.JPG
Views:	2348
Size:	97.8 KB
ID:	2051385   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1967.JPG
Views:	2416
Size:	101.0 KB
ID:	2051386  

Last edited by gokemidoro; 12-01-2014 at 12:07 PM.
gokemidoro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-01-2014, 11:53 AM
  #2  
gokemidoro
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sequim, WA
Posts: 888
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Here are a few more pics.....





The first two to show the amount of steer deflection the STOCK components get! More than enough!

The bottom shot to show no mods under there.

and a closer shot of the rear body mounts, which were made from essentially parts from the kit......
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1968.JPG
Views:	2473
Size:	134.4 KB
ID:	2051430   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1969.JPG
Views:	2710
Size:	122.4 KB
ID:	2051431   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1970.JPG
Views:	2337
Size:	99.4 KB
ID:	2051432   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1971.JPG
Views:	2303
Size:	121.7 KB
ID:	2051433  
gokemidoro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2014, 09:56 PM
  #3  
gokemidoro
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sequim, WA
Posts: 888
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

UPDATE:

Tried the Ride "S" compound drift tires, on my polished cement garage floor. Still too hard. They are coming closer to the right compound, however. Unfortunately, this compound is just a tiny bit too hard. Just enough to overpower the gyro. The last brand drift tires to test are HPI's T-Drifts, which are a known quantity to me, if I can only find some domestically.........I know those will work.

On the plus side.......the hard tires I have now, will make good asphalt tires, come springtime!
gokemidoro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2014, 10:11 PM
  #4  
gokemidoro
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sequim, WA
Posts: 888
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Update:

Here are pics of the drifter in it's last version. Notice some things have changed slightly.

Now....on to what I really found.......

I have Berber carpet in my home. I ran the M05 drifter on it, just for fun. I found it a perfect surface for running them. I moved all the furniture around my home (I'm the only one living there, and I don't entertain), and ended up with a 12 ft by 14 ft area to play with. It's more than enough to run the M05, but more importantly, every tire compound I run on it acts differently! At the moment, this brand of Berber prefers the harder compounds.
The factor most important to a RWD drifter, is it's ability to accelerate. The combination of Berber carpet with hard drift tires was an accident, but I find also many drifters in Japan going to carpet tracks, and those tracks have like....zero tire wear, but hard plastic drift tires and low, close-weave carpet like Berber just work well together.






Now I have somewhere to drift over wintertime, that's warmer than my garage, which is where I used to drift, and the garage isn't heated.

For anyone wanting to know, the rear shocks are from an Ofna H4e. In this particular application, both spring rate and damping were perfect as rear shocks. With the discovery that I can run this drifter in my house, I now find this M05 RWD drift project an interesting conversion that works, if the cardinal rule concerning tire/surface selection is obeyed. As a matter of fact, I find this conversion easier to drift (not just because of the gyro, either), but it re-creates actual driving.
Of course, not everyone can have Berber carpet in their house, and to those, they will have to work at finding a compound that works well on a particular surface near them. The Ride "S" compound appears soft enough to be a good choice for asphalt. My own all-around preference is still the HPI T-drift. On Berber, the best tires seem to be the hardest compounds. Tires like Tamiya's own "M" class size tires for drift (which I am using now) work well. As soon as I can get a set of Ride "H:" compounds, I'll let everyone know, but in the meantime, I'm drifting in the house!
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1972.JPG
Views:	2430
Size:	114.4 KB
ID:	2054301   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1973.JPG
Views:	2467
Size:	115.2 KB
ID:	2054302   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1974.JPG
Views:	2298
Size:	166.4 KB
ID:	2054303   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1975.JPG
Views:	2379
Size:	154.6 KB
ID:	2054304  
gokemidoro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2014, 12:42 PM
  #5  
Buttes
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 2
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Thanks for sharing! I've been drifting with my AWD chassis for about a year now and I'd like to give RWD a chance. Is it worth trying the RWD setup if I am not an expert at AWD drifting?
Buttes is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2014, 01:14 PM
  #6  
gokemidoro
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sequim, WA
Posts: 888
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Originally Posted by Buttes View Post
Thanks for sharing! I've been drifting with my AWD chassis for about a year now and I'd like to give RWD a chance. Is it worth trying the RWD setup if I am not an expert at AWD drifting?
RC RWD drift is the closest approximation of what it is, to drive a 1:1 drift car. There's not too much difference between 50/50 and RWD. The only real difference electronically is, the RWD requires a gyro. RWD drift is also more heavily dependent on how well tires work with the surface than other types of drift. If the tires don't work, you'll know it, because the RWD drifter won't be able to accelerate. Without acceleration, a RWD drifter won't drift.
Balance is also a big part. Any chassis modded to RWD should be at the very least, balanced 50/50 front and rear. Being a bit front heavy is a good thing here. The gyro will have less to fight, and operate more efficiently.
Oh...yeah....who's an "expert?" I've been doing it for going on eight years, and I'm nowhere close to calling myself an "expert."
gokemidoro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2014, 06:50 PM
  #7  
Buttes
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 2
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Originally Posted by gokemidoro View Post
RC RWD drift is the closest approximation of what it is, to drive a 1:1 drift car. There's not too much difference between 50/50 and RWD. The only real difference electronically is, the RWD requires a gyro. RWD drift is also more heavily dependent on how well tires work with the surface than other types of drift. If the tires don't work, you'll know it, because the RWD drifter won't be able to accelerate. Without acceleration, a RWD drifter won't drift.
Balance is also a big part. Any chassis modded to RWD should be at the very least, balanced 50/50 front and rear. Being a bit front heavy is a good thing here. The gyro will have less to fight, and operate more efficiently.
Oh...yeah....who's an "expert?" I've been doing it for going on eight years, and I'm nowhere close to calling myself an "expert."
The realism in the RWD RC drift chassis is a good reason for me to give this platform a chance until I actually can own a drift missile in real life haha. I'll keep an eye out for a well priced one and give it a spin. It will be nice to have two of these cars on hand anyway so I can tandem with a guest.

If not an expert, perhaps I can say you are one who seems to have significantly greater expertise than I.
Buttes is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-15-2014, 07:53 PM
  #8  
gokemidoro
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sequim, WA
Posts: 888
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Most RWD drift chassis that would be anywhere near affordable are Tamiya M06's, or one-offs like mine. There are a lot of crazy ideas going round, mostly from Japan, and most of what they deem worthy of owning are top-shelf units that fetch nice prices. I'm speaking with a friend on this subject, and he has his own ideas, that are definitely worth a try, but we're doing everything in mini, or "M" class. Along with the revelation of hard drift tires and Berber carpet, minis just seem to be the best size for this type of drifter. but it's my own opinion that drift has reached it's pinnacle with RWD drift chassis.

As that may be so, It took eight years for me to come to the realizations contained in this thread. A bit slow on the draw? But really.....drift has always been a learning experience. I'm a better tech and mechanic than a driver, but I prefer tracks with a distinct start and end. Like a mountain road, but those take a lot of room, and most of the best are walkways where RC would be a hazard.. Loop-type tracks are O.K., but get boring after a while. Freeform tandem can be fun, if there's enough room. Heck, me? I'm happy as a clam I have 12' X 14' to drift in, in the house!
gokemidoro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 01-11-2015, 07:15 PM
  #9  
mitchponton
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 28
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default Awesome advice

Originally Posted by gokemidoro View Post
Most RWD drift chassis that would be anywhere near affordable are Tamiya M06's, or one-offs like mine. There are a lot of crazy ideas going round, mostly from Japan, and most of what they deem worthy of owning are top-shelf units that fetch nice prices. I'm speaking with a friend on this subject, and he has his own ideas, that are definitely worth a try, but we're doing everything in mini, or "M" class. Along with the revelation of hard drift tires and Berber carpet, minis just seem to be the best size for this type of drifter. but it's my own opinion that drift has reached it's pinnacle with RWD drift chassis.

As that may be so, It took eight years for me to come to the realizations contained in this thread. A bit slow on the draw? But really.....drift has always been a learning experience. I'm a better tech and mechanic than a driver, but I prefer tracks with a distinct start and end. Like a mountain road, but those take a lot of room, and most of the best are walkways where RC would be a hazard.. Loop-type tracks are O.K., but get boring after a while. Freeform tandem can be fun, if there's enough room. Heck, me? I'm happy as a clam I have 12' X 14' to drift in, in the house!
I was lucky enough to get two Fujin 211Go's and I've been modifying to get to work. Got the old school wheels and two old school bodies. Will keep you updated with everything. Doing the same ESC and was gifted a Brushless Sensored Motor. Will be doing a Gyro and have somehow gotten ahold of 6 Ride S compunds, 4 Ride H compunds, 4 Tamiya Drift tires. The Two bodies are ABC Hobby Celica 1600 and 2000 models which will look awesome once completed. I was thinking about a widebody with a rear lip spoiler. The other I haven't decided upon what to do with the second body yet. With my experience with my Sakura D3 converted to RWD I have a decent idea what to do with the weight and the Gyro, Also with the Help of Mr Gokemidoro. Anyway I should have two of these little guys running around soon. I can't wait!
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20150110_113957180.jpg
Views:	326
Size:	2.61 MB
ID:	2063145   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20150110_114003985.jpg
Views:	334
Size:	2.61 MB
ID:	2063146   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20150110_113945842.jpg
Views:	302
Size:	2.85 MB
ID:	2063147  
mitchponton is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2015, 07:57 AM
  #10  
enneaitch
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 11
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Hi guys... I have been searching for a very long time to find information like this!!! you have no idea how good this stuff is! ha ha, Sorry. Im Nick From sunny Scotland in the uk. Ive gone from 4wd drift to cs and now just bought a m-06 stock chassis to get sideways...


im needing a little help, trying to get to grips with what kind of set up i should be going with... Im running a 13.5t brushless motor, lipo battery, Programmable esc, and stock radio.


Where do i start? i had it at the track and found it to instantly spin like a ballerina when ever i tried to go into a corner... Can someone please help?
enneaitch is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2015, 08:30 AM
  #11  
gokemidoro
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sequim, WA
Posts: 888
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Wow....

Just received this on E-mail. I have been out of RC Drift (or RC, in general) for a few months.

First, the M06, is not a great platform to use for a RWD drifter, but it's not impossible to mod one. A gyro will DEFINITELY be required, so get a good one. I use HPI's D-Box 2, but a good inexpensive one will work.
Your worst parts will be tires. I suggest you locate and purchase as many as you will be able to find. One caveat, though......HPI's T-Drift tires for "M" class are different diameters for inside and outside beads, so the wheels must be a specific type. Outside tire compounds will be tiny, if not non-existent. Indoor tires are all over the place, IF you use Berber carpet, as is specified in the text above.

Next, the M06 doesn't really lend itself to weight distribution changes well, so a little creativity will be necessary. You will want a weight distribution of at least 55/45, biased toward the front.

My best advice? Get an M05 Ver.II Pro, and do what I did. The new Ver. II Pro is the best version of the M05 Tamiya has put out, so far, and it works well for drift, if you do what I did. The mods are relatively easy, compared to what you'll have to do, with an M06. I have one, myself, and found it wasn't a good candidate for RWD drift, with the supplies I had. I am saving it as a RWD racer, later on.....

I am a retired American Army veteran who just received his service dog, and I have no more time for RC. Try contacting the poster who posted above you. I know Mitch, and he can help. if he's still doing his "M" classers.
gokemidoro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2015, 08:38 AM
  #12  
enneaitch
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 11
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Thanks very muc hfor the prompt reply... Im planning on making this something special nad going the whole hog with the m-06. I have found a great carbon chassis which should help with the allocation of weight alot better than the stock tub chassis. My main problem i think im goign to come up against is the steering... the lock is terrible... Any thoughts on that?

Heres the link to the carbon chassis im planning on buying. http://www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/sh...ch&keyword=m06 Ill also be purchasing the alloy steeriing kit which comes with all the arms and carriers etc...

Do you think the power from the motor could be an issue?
enneaitch is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2015, 08:49 AM
  #13  
enneaitch
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 11
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

sorry duplicate post.**
enneaitch is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2015, 09:33 AM
  #14  
gokemidoro
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sequim, WA
Posts: 888
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Originally Posted by enneaitch View Post
Thanks very muc hfor the prompt reply... Im planning on making this something special nad going the whole hog with the m-06. I have found a great carbon chassis which should help with the allocation of weight alot better than the stock tub chassis. My main problem i think im goign to come up against is the steering... the lock is terrible... Any thoughts on that?

Heres the link to the carbon chassis im planning on buying. http://www.broadtech.hk/eagleshop/sh...ch&keyword=m06 Ill also be purchasing the alloy steeriing kit which comes with all the arms and carriers etc...

Do you think the power from the motor could be an issue?

If you're invested in the M06, then try using "air" batteries, for airplanes. Those are smaller than regular stick-type batteries, and you can alter weight better with those. They don't last as long as stick batteries, but the mod potential is worth the extra trouble. Stay away from aluminum steering components. You can get steer angle with the stock components, The first thing you'll have to do, is get rid of the bellcranks. Those will NOT work with any system that improves steering deflection. You may have to relocate the steering servo location (putting it up front, where the bumper is, was my last idea - adds weight up front, too). Look at the stock steering parts, and mock them up to one another. You'll see where material needs to be removed, to get more deflection. mostly with the front C-hubs and knuckles.
Look VERY closely at the front steering on the M05. It uses the same parts as the M06 in this area, so much of what you see will transpose to the M06 with a little modding. You might invest in some small aluminum parts, such as standoffs and spacers (TQRC Racing online has several types and brands of those parts that I have used, and they stock all the ones I did use), which will be necessary.

Don't worry too much about the power system at this point. The chassis will be taking up the bulk of your time from now. I ran a 5700Kv system in my M06, and it was too powerful. It now has a 4600Kv system in it now, and it works better for power modulation, which is very important to drift. The lower-rated systems all have better modulation than the more powerful systems. Don't get too locked into power, because drift really doesn't require much. The reason you spin out now, is because of:

1) bad weight distribution
2) wrong tires
3) too much power delivery

Thee are all issues, but no one is more important than the others. They all contribute, and all are tied to each other, adjustment-wise. The way you see the list, is exactly how you should tackle them. Weight distribution first, then tires, then power system. Do it any other way, and you'll be chasing the other two, repeatedly - not a good idea.

Another tip....

Look up the Tamiya M06 at Youtube. I found the ones for the M05, to turn that into a drifter, and there are a few on the M06, though not really successful, may spur ideas.

"M" class is not a popular size, as it once was, but there are a few diehards out there, who haven't given them up. Try hooking up with Mitchell. He may have some ideas......
gokemidoro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2015, 07:46 AM
  #15  
enneaitch
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 11
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Sound advice.. ill have done some more research today on the m-05 steering and will be sitting down and looking at the suspension and steering on my chassis tonight (see where i can gain some more angle) Having looked at it i think im running the same servo as you. Thanks again for the advice. Ill try and post some images on here as i go. in case its of any interest to you. Thanks.
enneaitch is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2015, 12:46 AM
  #16  
enneaitch
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 11
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Ordered up the new chassis, and some new wires and cables yesterday which should allow me to move my esc and reciever about to help with the weight distribution. il get some pictures together once they arrive!
enneaitch is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2015, 08:42 AM
  #17  
enneaitch
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 11
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Hey guys, Just a heads up... Some parts have been getting delivered over the past week or so... ill be putting something together tonight. I recieved the Chassis Yesterday and i must say im impressed... Its really light and looks like theres lots of space.



I Have all new wiring and a 15t Stock Hpi Motor which i think ill fit wit ha HPi Sprint Esc, see if that should give me more torque and with less power.

It will be interesting to see where i can make adjustments with the steering one i get the front end together. But i will keep you posted. Thanks Again.
enneaitch is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2015, 12:52 AM
  #18  
enneaitch
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 11
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Hey guys just a little update. got the car put together for testing, with the Tamiya m-chassis drift tyres, a Gyro and the above kit.

And im really struggling to get it to handle properly, i have added weight to the front to see if that helps, and its not happening. I have very little grip on the rear and even less over the front but when I turn into a corner the car just wants to do a 360...

Any ideas? i have tried my best to get as much lock from the front stock steering items. But not getting as much as i would like.


Thanks
enneaitch is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2015, 07:26 PM
  #19  
gokemidoro
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sequim, WA
Posts: 888
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

This will likely be my last ever entry anywhere. This computer will be going offline soon.

Firstly, adding weight to the front end is the ONLY way to balance the M06 chassis, as it is with the M05. The closer you get balance at 50/50, the better the chassis will handle. You see, 50/50 is "neutral distribution," in which a gyro should have full control. You do not have enough weight added, by the sound of it. Don't get stuck on overall weight. The "M" series Tamiya cars are all chunky to begin with, and in drift trim, don't need to go fast. Don't worry about how much it ends up weighing. The one in the pics is as heavy as a full 1/10th scale drift chassis and performs great on Berber carpet, which leads me to........
THEN, there is the traction question......What are you running on? You don't mention that......Much more attention must be paid to this on "M" class cars, because they are so much smaller than "full" 1/10th scale, and there is such a pathetic number of tires to choose from. I find Berber and EVEN weave low-cut carpets of it's type are great for these drift tires, especially the Tamiya ones. I also use Ride drift tires, as they still make them in "M" class wheel sizes.

As for more steering deflection.........You can get almost a full 90 degrees from the C-hubs and knuckles, if modded correctly (I remove the steering stops on the C-hubs, that look like cheap extensions left over in the design process, and cut out part of the C-hubs to get the desired amount you see in the above pics). The only restriction, as I see it, is the chassis. You may have to mod the chassis to get the amount of deflection you need, and you WILL need a certain amount, to drift well (not enough will have you doing donuts, as you have certainly found out for yourself). Moving some assemblies around might be necessary for you to get the proper amount of deflection. Using a system not dependent on bellcranks is the best way to get better results.

Another thing to consider is "anticipating" the initiation of drifts. The sooner you train yourself to anticipate initiations or switchbacks (transitions), the more load you remove from the load the gyro has to carry, and drifts will be smoother. Be sure the gyro is also set correctly. You would be surprised to find the number of people who set-up the gyro wrong, then blame it for not working. You want it to turn the wheels INTO a skid, so if the back end is sliding out, the front tires should be pointed in the direction you still want to go........You would not believe the number of "RC folk" I have met who didn't know this. Not saying you don't, just advising.......
The gyro should also be mounted as far inboard at the center of chassis weight (basically the middle of the chassis) as possible. DO NOT mount it at the side of the chassis and call it good. You will get uneven gyro performance. If it's adjustable, max out all settings. You will need it that way.

Since I will be unable to help further, I hope you get some help. You may post a thread outlining your problems, and post a LOT of pics, so people can see and possibly identify any trouble spots. Go to TQRC Racing online, and look up parts for the M06 (they have a pretty extensive list, so even if you don't buy from them, you might see something you might need, you haven't seen before - I used to, all the time).... Go to the "Tamiya M06" model page, and scroll down.....

Good luck on your project! Mine finally came together after YEARS of failures. I guess to quit after I found the right combination is fitting. There wasn't much else to keep me in RC......My dog HATES it all, cars, trucks, quads....She's pretty adamant....... I had fun while it lasted, but it's all part of a past best shaken off, now, as I am doing more constructive things helping my fellow veterans get the help they need. My dog doesn't mind them at all!
gokemidoro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2015, 12:26 AM
  #20  
enneaitch
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 11
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Thanks for your help, its been the best advice I have found. Good luck with your new adventures. Dont worry I think im finally getting closer to finding that perfect balance, I have modified the steering so im getting maximum lock on the m06 C-Hubs and knuckles, and also relocated the servo to sit centrally. Removing the bell cranks all together. the gyro is mounts centrally toward to rear of the chassis, and i need to play with the settings a little. max its sensitivity.

So thanks very much for your help. its been greatly appreciated.
enneaitch is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2015, 01:30 AM
  #21  
enneaitch
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 11
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Here is where i am at right now... Thanks again.







Thanks again
enneaitch is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2015, 07:32 AM
  #22  
gokemidoro
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sequim, WA
Posts: 888
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

You look to be on the right track!

Nice work!

By what I see, you're pretty close to making it work. Just a little weight redistribution.......

Maybe a cool Porsche 911 body, once it's finished..........
gokemidoro is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2015, 12:56 PM
  #23  
enneaitch
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 11
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Ha ha thanks very much. Yeah im more of a japanese market kind of guy lol... i was thinking a datsun 510 in brm livery... or maybe a datsun pick up... not totally sure yet. but thats a different project all together. ill concentrate on getting it to slide properly first.
enneaitch is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2016, 12:21 PM
  #24  
ronamyth
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Hammonton, NJ
Posts: 1
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

Where can I find the actual conversion instructions? Thanks
ronamyth is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2016, 06:47 PM
  #25  
elabsdesigns
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1
Gallery
My Gallery
Models
My Models
Ratings
My Feedback
Default

I know that this is an old thread --- but following the pictures as best I can I have come to this point in my rwd project. Work in progress...

Body Test Fit: Tamiya M05 chassis


Left Max Turn


Right Max Turn


Can't clear front suspension that is the max angle I can achieve unless I changes front suspension...
Front barely hits spring


Dremmel corner to clear front arm


Adding stick on weights from local tire store as the chassis is rear weight bias


Before: Note Rear weight:


weight in front compartment:


After Weight added:


Rear balance notice veers to right because of motor. need to get counter motor weight from tamiya:


Body Complete:





Other Drifter: shaft awd Rear spool front 1 way. Yokomo Type C


Final Form:



elabsdesigns is offline  
Reply With Quote

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service