speenair

I got a 2wd stadium electric with a 15 turn motor, will this work for drifting??? i am having pvc pipe tires being made for me.

viperspeed333

You probably will be burning out an spinning around, as opposed to drifting.

Jocke88

All ( most if not all ) full size drifting cars are rear wheel drive so I dont see why it should be a problem. It may be more difficult seeing as you have to sort of powerslide, balancing the throttle with the wheel lock...not an easy task. You could always use the scandinavian flick to get those rear tyres lose but with the PVC it should be no problem. Goodluck!

WhiskyVR-4

I also have a stadium truck (RC10GT) that I've been considering modifying to drift, just to see how it does, but remember, 1:1 cars and 1:10 r/c cars are not at ALL the same in balance or load transfer. I wrote all of it up on the nitro drifting thread, check it out there, but to say "well, the 1:1 cars are all rwd, so the r/c ones should be too" doesn't exactly hold-up.

speenair

i agree. I will just experiment when i get my wheels this weekend and let y'all know how it goes.

WhiskyVR-4

please do, I'll be doing the same.

I actually have a template I made for a front-engine, rear wheels drive (FR) r/c car (nitro, but electric would be easier). I have everything placed such that it carries a 50/50 left/right balance (with a full tank of gas) and 55/45 front/rear. Its based on the NTC3, but I haven't had time to get the templace machined yet, or to make the driveshaft adapter I'll need. Might be cool though. Hell, the nascar/oval guys might dig that too, more like the real thing, you know?

Vroom_Pssst

heh......i might get an s13 in a couple of months once i finish paying off my mustang.......im sure u understand the basics of drifting real cars.....but if u could get a little more traction with the back tires and less on the front then ur rear shouldnt be able to slide uncontrolably...........try getting a knife and scrape the rear tires up.......might work......ill probably try it tonight and see how it goes

WhiskyVR-4

Actually, its the other way around. When I drift I run my Bridgestone S-03s up front, and run generic low-rating tires on the rear (I don't actually change the tires till they are bald, I just run my garbage "drifting" wheels in the back). Keeps the slides smooth at low speed and keeps cost down since I only pay about $40 for a pair of used tires for the rear.

Anyway, the point I was trying to make is that you want lateral grip in the front, and forward grip in the rear. The rear can be accomplished, to a point, with toe-in, but getting lateral grip on a solid plastic "tire" is going to be hard. Without getting into tires design and slip angles and such too much, I will say that without a grip surface that can interlock with the pavement to some degree, and without flexible sidewalls its pretty hard to make anything grip.

I wonder if there is a slightly softer plastic than ABS that we could be using.

Also, vroom, how does your car go "vrooom pssssst" if you drive a mustang? lol Regarding S13s, 1989 and 1990 have the KA24E SOHC, 1991-1998 are KA24DE DOCH powered. Don't buy a convertible. 1991 and some 1992 KA24DE engines had a 248 degree exhaust cam, which is very slightly better than the rest. So basically, if you want an S13 and you can be picky, get a 1991-1993 coupe or hatchback (although the hatch isn't a silvia really, its a 180SX), preferably SE model. If you need parts for it, give us a look, [link=http://www.gtpro.com]www.gtpro.com[/link], or see us at D1 Grand Prix or Formula D later this year.

Vroom_Pssst

hehe........my family used to own a 1985 300 ZX turbo.......it was cool....but was sold

Vroom_Pssst

i was thinking more along the lines of a tanabe ss pro DD coil over suspension and super medalion exhaust.....i can get a JDM sr20 det from street imports for around 3k then i was going to load it up with pauter x-beam rods, race engineering xt forged pistons and then port and polish the head and intake, then add a header, cams, valvetrain, pulleys, and cam gears, probably a trans oil cooler, double electric fans, intercooler, and maybe a turbonetics t4 turbo......and a rotora front big brake system........but thats just what i want in the end.......which will probably be in about 2 years.......but rome wasnt built in a day.....thanks for the info

WhiskyVR-4

I'd suggest the tanabe coilovers any day, thats what I run on my S14, along with tanabe tension rod arms and control arms front and rear. In all honesty, the KAAZ LSD I put in made the biggest difference, along with the 17x8 wheels and serious tires. The rotora kit isn't bad, but its overkill. If you do a 5-lug conversion I would suggest just running the 300ZX (Z32) brakes, its all you need. I'm still running the KA24DE, and probably always will. Its not worth getting caught with an SR20 in California, trust me, we do SR20 swaps at my shop. We also make a complete KA24DE turbo kit though, and on a bone-stock KA we made 254hp to the tires at medium boost. Its a definite improvement in power (more than twice the ~122hp they make to the tires in stock form), but I didn't buy the car for straight-line acceleration. Right now I have hotshot headers, intake, exhaust, gutted cats, and an 11lb aasco flywheel, and a ported head, oversides valves, and nismo cams sitting in my garage waiting for enough time to swap it onto my car. Its more than enough to drift.

Vroom_Pssst

exactly how much does the turbo kit run......also.... would u need to beef up the bottom end for these mods?

Vroom_Pssst

nvm i saw the site......pretty pricey........but for the amout of power its worth it........so basically if i wanted to buy a complete engine from u it would run about 15 grand?........also......i would need to upgrade the tranny and rear end and such too right?

WhiskyVR-4

the tranny should be fine, and in the rear-end, you might as well go with a real LSD, not some garbage viscous lsd (vlsd) or even worse an open diff. Go with either the Nismo or better yet the KAAZ like mine. The price to build a full racing engine depends on what you want, really, but its not cheap, no. Also remember, with the turbo kit (NSport/GT PRO) for the KA24, you get the manifold, turbo, wastegate, adjustable pressure regulator, front-mount intercooler, all of the intercooler piping, everything, its a complete kit (even comes with the oil feed and drain lines and instructions on how to modify your oil pan to use the turbo oil drain). So its a very straightforward, complete kit, and makes damn good power. Beats the hell out of getting caught with an illegal engine (especially here in CA)

speenair

Ha thats funny this thread has turned into a 1:1 scale car talk. Cool. My wheels are still not ready. Kinda sux but its still cool.

Vroom_Pssst

sorry for the 1-1..........but this is drifting too!........heh.......so would u be able to port the intake and turbo over at ur shop or no? and how much would it cost?........also......can i set the car up for street-drift-circuit.........its gona be a daily driver so i dont want anything to break loose at a corner....also i made a fake intercooler and muffler for my RC [8D] it looks cool......check out www.rcdrift.com

t-maxx101

i tryed drifting with my rc10gt and it just went in circles

Vroom_Pssst

prolly cuz its rwd..........try building up speed then going into a corner, toggle the steering and the throttle and try to get it to slide

t-maxx101

yea... im gonna try with some low traction street wheels

mtrchamp

My Feedback: (4)

I have a modified and lowered rusty, I tried drfting it and it just did donuts but I guess that's cuz I had tape on the rear tires. Other wise It wouldn't drift. How can I mod This? Or make it so it drifts. I have a 27 T Pilot Motor in it now, what should I have in there, I also have a 14T to install if that would work better. Somebody Please LMK thank you. I will post pics

t-maxx101

maybe if the the tape is on the front wheels and not the back because mine can break out the back no problem. So then the fronts still have traction making you spin out