mrfinger32

Well guys since my last post i had a choice of the tt01d or tb03. Today after work i went down to the Lhs to make my pick and didn't get a chacne to do it.
The tb03 was out of stock [:@]; so before i say this was a wasted trip (and gas) i bought the tt01d Nismo R34 GT-R Z-tune driftspec [&:]....

Anyway still kinda pleased and i do know i have to mod it a bit for cs; will start on it tomorrow after work...

What you think of my choice...!!!

teamnolimit

you should buy the ta05

gokemidoro

YES!

The TA05 VDF. I've got one coming from RCMart. They've got the best price so far. Tower is advertising it, and they haven't gotten stock yet. Their price is approx. $110 MORE than what RCMart sells it for, and RCMart has, at last count, 20 units left. It was 30+ units only three days ago!

mrfinger32,

Your choice was a good one. The TT01E would have been better, because it has more adjustability, but the one you got will get the job done. can't complain for the price! There's a lot of hop-ups for it, so it should keep you busy for a while...

kstmRYD

I just ordered my TA05 VDF from RC Mart as well! I was going for the Yokomo DRB but when it came time to pay for it I could not see myself shelling out 600.00 for it. Between the TT01 and TB03 I would have waited and gone for the TB03, I had this chassis and it handled extremely well and there are a ton of mods and bling parts for it.

Congrats on your purchase though, use it well!!

gokemidoro

Thanks!

If it weren't for KintoJin, I probably wouldn't have known about it, since Tower is the the only order house I went to thus far, and they don't list it as the VDF-they list it as "high-end drift kit", and price it at $439.99! It's crazy.
KintoJin says he ordered one, as well! At $295, it's a great deal!

I can't believe thatthe DRB costs$600! I assume that's for just the chassis and attendant parts- no ESC, motor, servo, radio. That's a lot of ducats for an ARR!

I've got an HPI Corvette body waiting for the VDF-and a '65 Mustang body waiting for paint, for the Ofna. We'll see how that turns out, since I absolutely SUCK at painting!

mrfinger32,

Did you see last month's issue of "Driver" magazine? There's an article by Tony Phalen on his TT01E drifter- You might find some ideas there! I picked up some brake discs he shows in the article. Pretty nice! Check it out!

mrfinger32

thanks guy for your input... i know i have a long way to set it up the way i like it...
i'm thinking of some how redoing the bevel pinion gear... i have some plans to make one[sm=50_50.gif]; only need is time to do it.

gokemidoro

mrfinger32,

Have you checked out RCMart for CS parts for the TT01D? They may have exactly what you are looking for. They are based in Hong Kong, so shipping time may take longer, but their prices are pretty low. I wouldn't mod any gears unless you can get spares, just in case......

Lots of folk look down on the TT01 series. Considering how many aftermarket parts are available for it, that makes it a great platform, because support for it is all over the place! I'm thinking of picking up a "rally" version soon, and I have a DB01 rally coming, so I can see which one is better! Tamiya just makes good stuff!

Let us know how everything turns out! : )

kstmRYD

GOKEMIDORO - you are right about a lot of people looking down on th TT01, mainly because it has been labeled "an entry level" chassis. But this chassis has grown a big following and in the right hands it is drifting right up there with chassis costing 3 times more, I have witnessed this personally.

I especially like how sturdy this chassis as well as other Tamiya chassis are, I run higher priced chassis made by several brands and I admit they drift better and can be precisely tuned but, you are paying for that.

For the price I think Tamiya came out with a good product here in the TT01.

gokemidoro

I agree.

I personally considered the TT01E when I was looking for a drift chassis, and finally settled on the Sprint 2. I can't tell you why I chose the Sprint over the TT01, maybe it was the belt drive. Only after I got the Sprint did I notice the wealth of parts available for the TT01. Looking on Youtube, there's a lot of really modded TT01's on there.
I noticed there are even rally versions (which I'm also into, the last vestige of off-road in my collection) available, so I'm considering one.

HPI has let me down.......The one-way diff went "kaput" on me, and I contacted HPI, no reply. Soooo, it's back to the stock diff. Kind of a let-down, considering how many folk like HPI's customer service, saying how great it is........

The VDF chassis will be the last one for a while, since it has pretty much everything I want in a chassis, so will see how it drifts, and it will be my "show" chassis as well!

kstmRYD

Yeah that HPI one way has issues, the bearing spins in the diff housing - just pull out the bearing clean the inner diff housing and the bearing outer well and shoe goo it or crazy glue it. It will hold for a while, if you put in mad hours drifting it will eventually let go again so you will need to repeat the fix.

Every brand has some issue, my Yokomo Type C drifts fantastic but the screws into the suspension arms back out, if you tighten just a hair too much you strip the plastic threading, I'm not crazy about the material they use to form the parts, so you need to secure these with some locking liquid, see this in not a cheap chassis, but like I said they all have some issue.

If they came out with the perfect car they would go out of business as you would never have to replace it or it's parts.

gokemidoro

!LOL! How true about the "perfect car"!

I finally got an answer from HPI, they will send a replacement one-way. I did clean out the bearing area, but don't understand about the bearing outer well. It doesn't spin, the one-way is pretty new. The only thing I found that didn't seem right was the bearing cover, the part that abuts against the outdrives. Theright side is round, and the left is hexagonal. The left is the side that 'skips". The bearing that the one-way turns on, in the bulkheads fits perfectly, so I didn't think that could be the problem, but after cleaning and lubing, it still skips. BTW, those covers don't rotate in the diff housing, so I'm at a loss.
After the new one gets here, I'll take the old one completely down and see what I can find, if anything. It's just odd. I've dealt with one-way bearings before, in appliances and motorcycles, and never come across this. (???????)

Even KintoJin says the same about the plastic quality of Yokomo. Around here, the dirt guys whine about the quality of plastic in HPI cars and trucks. I don't see the problem. it's pretty durable, and doesn't strip out easily, so I don't know what they're talking about. Maybe Yokomo uses a bit too much styrene in their mixture???

I haven't had a Tamiya yet, I always hear good things about them, though. A few guys here have Tamiya kits they built, and they are happy with them. That's partly why I am happy with the purchase of the VDF (I flipped a coin to see which one-Tamiya TA05 VDF or Yokomo type C!Tamiya won!), and expect no problems. the other is price. I figured, even after the option parts I know I would want, the Type C would end up being more expensive, so all in all, I think I made a good choice. Knowing you and KintoJin ordered it too just reaffirms my confidence in the choice! : )

mrfinger32

thanks guys for all your support with my choice. i know the tt01's isnt flashy and bling out under the shell from the box
but i like working with them by adding or making my mods for them. Yes they are cheap (and tuff) in many ways but they will preform like any
other high price car (HPI,YOKOMO, etc) out there.

later down the road my next kit will be a belt drive, dont know which one yet; thanks again and good luck to all you DRIFTERS out there!!!

kstmRYD

Yeah I must admit my Sprint 2 has held up well, I have literally hundreds of hours on it, never had a screw back out or a plastic part break, I just changed all my bearing on it last night I literally grinded all of them to death, everything was really loose, surprised it drifts so well.

On the one way, the bearing is pressed into the one way, you should not be able to easily pull a bearing out of the diff, they are pressed in nice and tight, they do not spin in the diff. You know the bearing is pressed in right when you look at it and it has writing on the face, and a arrow indicating rotation and it has a mild hex shape to it, this side faces you when it is dropped into and pressed into the diff.

To test, put the cup joints on both sides, hold the diff by the pulley in one hand and hold a cup joint with the other hand. Careful cup joints are sharp, you should not be able to keep the cup joint from turning in the same direction as the pulley if you can the bearing is slipping in the diff. This holds true for both sides.



When I get my VDF I will post pics as I build - I think I am going to mod it for Counter Steer, but first I will assemble it as is and drift it in 50/50 mode. I was hoping to have it for a drift demo we are putting on in Englishtown Raceway Park NJ in August 8th.

mrfinger32

Hey ksymRYD; just finish looking at the vdf and dammm it dose look sweet but sut such a hefty price [:@]!!!





must keep us informed about the build....

mrfinger32

ooopppsssss.... sorry, i mean {kstmRYD}


just a bit wooozzy from the pic of the vdf....Dammmmm nice [sm=tongue_smile.gif]

gokemidoro

mrfinger32,

Good luck and good drifting with your choice! In no time, with the right "bling" parts, you'll have a drift carguys in your area will be jealous of! I agree and support kstmRYD's assessment of the Sprint 2 drifter. There are some issues, but there isn't a car that doesn't have some, no matter the brand. I have one, and it's a great drifter, even with it's "foibles". VERYtough, and with a little judicious TLC, it cand be something you can be proud of!
BTW, what site did you look at? At RCMart, it's pretty inexpensive, but I guess that's relative, because some have more to spend than others......If you want to see expensive, go to Tower, and they don't even have any in stock yet!

kstmRYD,

Yah, the bearing covers (the ones at the arrows) are tight. I just checked them. I guess the hexagonal shape is normal on the left side, after all. The outdrive (cup joint)still "skips" on that side. I'm hoping the new one will last longer than a month, which is all I got from this one. It didn't get excessively dirty, because when I cleaned it, there wasn't any discoloration of the grease, or blackness on the towel I used. Odd. Must have got a "lemon"

mrfinger32

i went to side-fx.com and scroll down till i seen it.... good looking and shiney too !!!
i dont really buy anything from tower but do use it for reading up a full description on products[sm=thumbup.gif].

mrfinger32

hey gokemidoro; you are so right... rcmart has it at much better price[sm=thumbup.gif]

gokemidoro

Yah, give it time, in no time, you'll be sliding with a high-end chassis! Who knows.........You'll probably have something better than us by that time!

I've had SOOOOOO much fun drifting! More so than when I was into dirt full-on. I was just breaking parts, and spending gobs of money. that was the bummer part. I have no one here to drift with, where I am, but it's O.K., I have the "luxury" of practice with little interruption! I'm also not breaking parts at light speed (the technical aspect of on-road also appeals to the "inveterate tinkerer" in me)!

I'll be drifting for some time to come!

Keep it sideways!!!

kstmRYD

Gokemidoro - when you get lemons, you make lemonade as the saying goes, but when you get crap..... what do you make?? lol

Guess your inner works in the bearings were shot, at least they are replacing it. Hopefully the chassis arrives in the 2nd week of August, so I'll start the build. Dude, wife is going to kill me! "another car!!!"

gokemidoro

S**t sandwich?

Yah, I haven't purchased from RCMart before, so am not sure how long it takes for shipping. They SAY 7-14 days, but you know how that is.......

I'm over here on the west coast, so should receive mine in about a little over a week/ week and a half. About the same time as you. Of course, KintoJin will get his in no time.

LOL! Women are all like that! They can spend tons of money on "girly" stuff, but us guys are "supposed" to be frugal. I go through that here, too!

My mother will be getting a camera soon, so will be able to post pics, too (I'll need the assistance of the internet provider, they have a support guy). What body you going to use? Post pics when you get it finished!

Douwant2play

I've ordered a few times from RCmart. I usually order on Wed. and I recieve my Products the following Friday and I live in Austin Tx. Not too bad of a wait especially coming from HK

kstmRYD

I have a couple of unpainted bodies I have not touched yet. I have the Yokomo ORC 350Z and a Tamiya Nissan GT-R35 skyline I already did one on my TB03D but I sold it, I like this body type so I will do one up again

here are some pics of the one I sold

gokemidoro

Douwant2play,

That's good to know.....It has to go by air a good part of the way, even if you use the least expensive shipping method, so It may get here before I expect. Thanks!

kstmRYD,

SWEET! I like the Skyline GTR anyway, but have avoided buying one, because of the body lines-difficult to mask. I'm masking a Mustang GTR right now. It's going to have an "asymmetrical" paint scheme, following loosely how you did the Skyline GTR, with the same colors (no tribal, though). I'm curious to see how itwill come out. The '65 Mustang is coming along surprisingly well. I ran out of paint, so have to get some more to finish! Those itty bitty rattle cans don't hold much!

What's the name of the color you used on the front grille area? That's about the color I would like to use on some trim, provided I can find it. Let me know.......

kstmRYD

gokemidoro - I use an airbrush to paint so I mixed Pactra RC69 metal flake silver and RC50 outlaw black to get that gunmetal grey for the grille. The black part of the car is acutally a very deep candy red wine followed by black from Spaz Stix paints. You can see the effect out in the sun. The blue is Pactra (Testors) RC72 candy blue backed by RC80 Metallic black. I used RC62 Indy Silver to transition between the black and blue.

The advantage of using an airbrush is that you can mix colors, and get effects that you can't with a spray can. Using an airbrush is not that difficult, give it a try! I also think that the paint adheres better with the airbrush, I don't know for sure but my airbrushed cars hold up better that the ones I shot with a can.