xDIRTYSOUTHx

So, I'm very new to electric RC's and need some info on upgrading. I just bought an MT10 and at some point would like to upgrade the motor, battery, and ESC. The only problem is i'm not sure what to start with or what to look for. I've been trying to get as much info on Li-Po's and brushless motors but I don't feel ready to start buying parts yet.

What should i look for in a brushless motor? (size, KV, volts, ect.)

What should i look for in an ESC? (amps, sensor?, ect.)

What should i look for in a new Li-Po? (volts, cells, charger, ect.)

I don't care to have the fastest, best, most expensive parts. I will most likely be buying from Ebay "china/hong kong". I'm just trying to get some knowlege so i will be able to search for specific parts instead of just searching "ESC" or Li-Po". Any info will be helpful and if you have links that would be great.

genitor

First of all you will need to upgrade the mt10 diffs to the metal diffs.

Brushless motor 3000-4000 kv 540 sized motor (36mm dia. 50cm long)

Esc around 60 Amps. Doesn't need to be sensored.

Lipo 2s or 3s around 5000 mah 20C or greater.

For charger, the imax b6, thunder t6 or ac6, turnigy accucel 6 are all good and basically the same but just in different cases.

Get your lipos, charger, esc and motor from either hobbycity.com or hobbypartz.com or also ebay.

SyCo_VeNoM

one of the 60A HW ESC & motors off hobbypartz.com should work. from the official thread I see people saying past 4600kv its nutty so this http://www.hobbypartz.com/car.html should work out nice.
in a truck unless you are crawling a sensor isn't worth it IMO.

battery wise I'd start at 2S and look at battery dimensions and how the plug is laid out. For the ESC I linked you will need 60A continuous draw minimal. To figure out what a battery can do its ((mAh rating) X (C Rating))/1000. Example: a 2s 3300 20c battery can put out 66A continuous current
You ignore the #S when figuring out amp rating. #S like 2S refers to the number of cells in the battery. Each cell puts out 3.7V so to figure out the voltage you take the S rating and multiply it by 3.7 for the batteries voltage.


For batteries and a charger I'd hit up hobbyking.com and look at the turnigy batteries they have killer prices on batteries(some are 1/3rd the cost of certain american companies for the same rating)
Same with chargers. I have 2 turnigy accucell 6 chargers that I use, and love em.

genitor

Links

Motor: http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-sens...-1-10-car.html

esc: http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-60a-...-1-10-car.html

program card for esc: http://www.hobbypartz.com/led-progra...hless-esc.html

batteries: http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=8579
http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=8578

charger: http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store...w/_accessories

power supply for charger: http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store...z_Power_Supply

xDIRTYSOUTHx

That will help me go in the right direction. Thanks for the info and links guys. That's killer.



Is it necessary to use a program card on the ESC or is that just an option?

genitor

The esc can be programmed by pressing a button on the esc and listening for different series of beeps and tones, very confusing and time consuming.
The program card makes it 100% easier.

The esc and motor combos on hobbypartz.com usually come with a program card but they didn't have a combo with the 3300kv motor so that's why I chose the components separately.

SyCo_VeNoM

I'd say makes it 10,000 times easier personally

xDIRTYSOUTHx

so many bad ratings for this power supply.. strange

SyCo_VeNoM

easy reason why
they probably tell it to charge at 5 amps and they don't take into consideration the power supply itself needs some of the current and blows em

xDIRTYSOUTHx

Well, I've been looking around lately and i think i found a cheap motor for a good price. I'm still trying to understand all the specs that electric motors have(slowly getting there). Just bought this off of hobbypartz.com. $24 and free shipping seemed like a great deal.

Tacon 3650 Brushless Motor 3200KV - $24 free ship

http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m25-car-3650-3200.html

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZ8mo-IY38g&feature=player_embedded#![/youtube]

Brainanator

My Feedback: (1)

I think that motor will perform very well in most any 1/10th scale application. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

xDIRTYSOUTHx

Well, i got the motor and ESC hooked up. But now the motor just beeps at me. Tried making sure trim was down and whatever but cant seem to get any action from it. While beeping the motor does move the wheels ever so gently during each beep.

RobbieP

Not really, it's a bottom-dollar power supply. What do you want for 10-bucks?

RobbieP

You might try resetting your ESC(shot in the dark), and you might want to check the connections (good solder joints on the connectors), but sometimes you have to chaulk it up to "you get what you pay for" and you could need to send it back.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Those Tacon motors have extremely stiff wires and crap connectors and a pretty poor connection going into the stator.

RobbieP

That makes sense. Idon't see why people don't understand that when you're paying the same for a BLmotor, as a stock brushed motor, that something has to be amiss and corners cut somewhere.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Because it's not a power supply, it's a generic AC adaptor.

Ever price one for your laptop and think "Oh boy, those are expensive" and then find a cheap one on eBay?

Yeah, so did ThunderbirdJunkie's old lady...her throw rug caught fire.

She lost her security deposit on that apartment.

Slo-V Flyer

It's funny you say that. If you really stop and think about it, what is there to screw up in the BL motor when compared to a brushed motor mechanically? As far as I understand, a brushed motor has more parts to go wrong:

Comm, (burned up, carbon build up etc)
brushes, (get hung up often with dirt/grass)
shorted/cut windings, (overheatings issue, not uncommon)
springs, (lose one? whoops)
timing on the endbell (if applicable).
Frozen bearings (if they're THAT stuck).


What is there to prevent a cheap/expensive BL motor from working or spinning (in the context of this thread)?

Bad connectors? (bad solder job?)
Shorted/cut windings, (overheating?)
destroyed rotor (that's a stretch, I don't think a rotor would disintegrate from the factory!)
Frozen bearings (....same condition...).
Endbell falls off??! (perhaps if it was bad from the factory, or you run the motor first at least some amount)

I've bought and own at least 4-5 different "cheap" motors for airplanes and trucks, not one of them as of today has misbehaved, some in over 2 years.

Now, if the thread was about overheating, and you said "you get what you pay for" I MIGHT agree with you on that, the motor being a smaller size than what would be ideal, inefficient wiring, etc.

When I see "you get what you pay for" I don't know if I should pull out my hair or laugh in many cases. I own a cheapy "ZTW" brand 60A and 80A Xerun esc. Yes they have their shortcomings (weird LVC detection etc) but they run as smooth as my Mamba Max did for 30% or 70% of the price. Sure they don't have all the extra bells and whistles (USB programming) but they have a programming card that serves me well and I have had zero problems in over 6 months.

Forget R/C, I own a $175 ebay brand catback exhaust for my Altima Coupe. Most people are paying over $500-$1000 for their brand name (GReddy/Nismo/Stillen) exhaust that deliver the exact same results (purely asthetic/audio pleasure with a placebo effect 20 whp at the muffler bearings...). I've had mine on for 43,000 miles. It is a mandrel bent exhaust, not the crush bent crap you might expect. It came in polished stainless steel. The "shortcoming" on that was the horrible crooked tips, which I got replaced for another $80. I still came out $600 less than the other brand name fan boys.

Before you decide to put me in a "HK fan boy" box, understand I do own brand name stuff, and enjoy them as well, such as my new Neu Castle 1518 motor, and prefer higher quality stuff, but sometimes the wallet speaks louder than my mind. Just gotta shop smart and sometimes you get MORE than what you paid for (in the case of my Neu Motor I literally paid 1/3 the price).

Back to the OP, I suspect the ESC may be bad? Or the the connections as mentioned above might need to be double checked, ESC re programmed? Check the timing advance? Battery status? Battery type?

xDIRTYSOUTHx

Thanks for your comment. I couldn't have said it better.

I'm still very new to electric RC's so trying to understand why the motor is beeping and not the ESC is quite confusing to me at the moment. I'm doing the best i can to read up on the program procedure and get this thing running. I think i did a good job soldering and checked all connections so i think i can check that off the list. I'm pretty sure it's a programming issue I'm having. All the programming threads i have found so far pretty much say the same thing but cant seem to get the thing running.

I'm going to keep playing with it and if all else fails i will buy another hobbyking or ezrun to test out.

Slo-V Flyer

Understand that an ESC typically does not have a speaker in it, so it is the motor that will beep and do all that stuff.

- However, when you say you give it power (little bit, or full throttle) and the motor beeps, you mean it BEEPS or just makes a whinning/buzzing noise? That can indicate that one of the wires/coils is not firing which can be a bad connection and also a bad ESC issue.
- If it is at all possible to try another BL motor, try it first, and of course another ESC.
- Also, what type of battery are you using/specs? Have you tried to drive the motor with the wheels off the ground?
- Is there any binding in the tranny?
- Is the pinion and spur mesh very tight (can you spin it by hand?)? Lots of simple things to check too.

RobbieP

"Typically"?
Which BLESCs are you talking about?

Slo-V Flyer

Mamba, Mamba Max, XERUN 80A, ZTW 60A, Tower Pro, E-flite 25A, Turnigy 10A Plush, Novak GTB.. And those are just what I own. My point was, most of them don't "beep" themselves, rather they seem to make the motor beep/chirp and such, via electric pulses. Same goes for my SCX-10 truck's brushed stock ESC which made the motor sound a little chirp at start up.


Which ESCs are you talking about that have a mini/peizo speaker in them? [&:]

RobbieP

All the Mamba, and Tekins BLESCs I've had beeped - during set-up, or do if there is a problem.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Robbie, they don't beep if there's no motor attached. Betcha dollars to donuts.

xDIRTYSOUTHx

This is where i was getting confused. I hooked all this stuff up and was ready to program but couldn't understand why the motor would be beeping. The green light isn't glowing on the RX so I'm thinking that's why I'm not getting anywhere with programming the ESC. I will try and bind the RX and TX later when i get home.