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  1. #1
    alexchen86's Avatar
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    Lexan Body Stitching

    Here's what happens when your Slash 4x4 PErear stock tires explode on you and bust out your rear fender wells and does a hard roof landing. Then you go back with thin CA and medium CA ALL the tires again. 3S and higher gearing with stock rubber doesn't work out so well lol.

    Then you go in and drill into the body and stitch it back together with zipties, CA, silicone, and heavy duty duct tape.

    Time for a new body? Idon't think so....lol







    Sure ain't the prettiest but she sure can handle her own!

    Only broken parts so far was one of the hinge screws on the rear backed out and broke off the side of the A arm. Replaced with RPM rears.
    Beyond that also broke the front splined steel output shaft...it completely broke in half but the aluminum drive shaft splines were all in tact and nothing else!





    \"...they call me tater salad.\"

  2. #2
    SyCo_VeNoM's Avatar
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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching

    Use some shoe goo over the tape to make it more secure

    For racing who cares if it looks pretty as long as its functional
    With great speed comes greater repair bills.
    Click on My models to see some of what I own. Eventually will add the rest

  3. #3
    Lars from Norway's Avatar
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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching

    Still looks like a body - why replace it?
    Find a job you love, then you won\'\'t have to work for the rest of your life.

  4. #4

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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching

    REDNECKREPAIRS


    Gotta luv it.

  5. #5
    alexchen86's Avatar
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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching

    True that proud to be born and raised in Texas yeeehaw!
    \"...they call me tater salad.\"

  6. #6

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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching

    As someone else suggested, next time get yourself a tube of Shoo-Goo or Goop. It can be obtained in various departments at most walmart stores.
    You'd be amazed at how strong the stuff is, and it sure makes for doing a neater and longer-lasting repair. Us racers have been using the stuff for years, reinforcing weak areas of bodies and places they want to crack, and it sure works better than any duct tape/CA/ziptie/silicone ever will.

  7. #7
    alexchen86's Avatar
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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching

    That will be my next purchase at Walmart....I need Shoe Goo anyway. My boots are coming apart at the bottom rubber sole!
    \"...they call me tater salad.\"

  8. #8
    Brainanator's Avatar
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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching

    working on my own body reinforcement project with shoe goo, zip ties, a CD, and one other special item....
    Will let you guy know how it goes in my own thread when I come to a conclusion.

    I like the ziptie idea, I'm using it adds tensile reinforcement to parts that have ripped apart too large for shoegoo alone.
    OFNA Jammin CRT.5e, stock sprint 2 drift, Savage Flux (4S), slash (just a roller for now)

  9. #9
    alexchen86's Avatar
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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching

    Yes sir....whatever works works! I'd even use some thin soldering wire if need be. Whatever you can get your hands on from weed whacker wire to fishing line. DO IT! Lol.
    \"...they call me tater salad.\"

  10. #10

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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching


    ORIGINAL: Brainanator
    I like the ziptie idea, I'm using it adds tensile reinforcement to parts that have ripped apart too large for shoegoo alone.
    Only problem being that the "tensile reinforcement" is stronger than the body itself, which has also been weakened by the holes to loop the ziptie through. There are times you just have to come to the conclusion that it's time to get a new body.

    The other issue is that there are things we do ourselves in which we have to take the blame for the body failure, like the OP who chopped out his windshield. While a "racer's trick," to aid in airflow though the truck instead of getting trapped underneath it, is not a neccessity for bashing and fun running. There's also something that could have been said for doing it a bit neater, and rounding the corners (to relieve a "crack zone") instead of making them square.

    Then there's also the consideration of addressing breakage areas before they crack, as in putting a dab of goop or shoegoo on known stress areas before running the body, instead of waiting for it to start cracking to do anything about it.

  11. #11

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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching

    I put a lot of duct tape around the inside of my bodies. Partially to protect paint, also to support corners and such.

  12. #12
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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching

    When I cut out a clear body shell I save all the trimming. When you get a crack you use the Lexan trimming as backing and use the Shoe Goo adhesive so you end up with a very strong repair no matter how big the crack is. Since the trimmings have different shapes and profiles you can usually come up with a backing peice that has a profile or curves that matches the cracked part of the body close-enough. I also use trimmings to re-enforce the holes for the body posts.
    Savage Flux 2200Kv | E-Savage Trophy Truck 3100Kv | EX-1 Buggy 2200Kv | E-Firestorm Baja Bug 5700Kv | GB-01 Buggy 5400Kv

  13. #13

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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching

    Next time try reinforcing it with Shoe Goo and fiberglass drywall tape WHEN THE BODY IS STILL NEW . It works GREAT and I have had bodies go a whole season without any major cracks .
    Ten SCTE , LST2 ,Micro SCT , Tekno 8ight T , RCSC8
    B44 , Hyper 10SC , E-REVO , Micro DT , Tekno D8

  14. #14

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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching


    ORIGINAL: JustinThyme

    I put a lot of duct tape around the inside of my bodies. Partially to protect paint, also to support corners and such.
    Duct tape is HEAVY, and tends to come loose over time.

  15. #15

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    RE: Lexan Body Stitching


    ORIGINAL: DARKWAV

    When I cut out a clear body shell I save all the trimming. When you get a crack you use the Lexan trimming as backing and use the Shoe Goo adhesive so you end up with a very strong repair no matter how big the crack is. Since the trimmings have different shapes and profiles you can usually come up with a backing peice that has a profile or curves that matches the cracked part of the body close-enough. I also use trimmings to re-enforce the holes for the body posts.
    Good idea -but most cracks can be eliminated by smoothing the edges (using sandpaper, or dremel) after cutting out the body so as to avoid any rough or snagged edges, along with avoiding any sharp cut corners (which was why the OP's body cracked at the windshield corners). Then reinforcing with ShoeGoo any hard mold edges, particularly where there's any 90-degree corners (a truck's doorpost meets the body), and especially the front fenderwells or any area that takes repeated flexing.


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