Haddi Taha

himy brother isgoing to get a nitro 1/10 hsp buggy and i need to know everyting from opening the box of the car to maintainence to driving style. we're complete loss at nitro however we know alot about electric and been in bl rc's for years thanks

378

My Feedback: (4)

RTFM, first of all. If that car is worth having, it will have everything you guys need to do printed in plain english. Make sure your fuel is a car blend with at least 15% oil, I myself opt for 18% oil since I run in a very dusty environment, and 20% nitro. You'll, obviously, require a glow ignitor as well. When you buy the fuel, buy three glow plugs, one hot, one medium, one cold. When you get the engine broken in and tuned on the plug that's in it, take that plug out and experiment with the three you bought. Your engine will clearly tell you which one it likes most. The easiest and cheapest way to check your temps is to simply dribble some water/spit on the glow plug. If it sizzles and boils off in about three seconds, your temps are perfect. Longer than that, too cold. Shorter than that, too hot. Lastly, make sure there's always smoke coming out of the pipe on acceleration. They're two strokes, the oil is in the fuel, so if you don't have smoke coming out when you accelerate, you're starving your engine of oil.

hpiracr28

or you could check out the nitro forums  people here have experience in nitro, but you would probably get more help in the nitro forums... just sayin'

SyCo_VeNoM

Have him watch this series its basically everything you need to know about break-in, and tuning a nitro
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAggk...EA109B&index=1
squirrel has some other good videos for newbies to nitro too


Not sure what mill of engine HSP uses over there on the vehicles they sell, but over here if its the same one exceed sells with the relabeled HSP's its kinda crappy from my understanding.

Unlike in electric where a $20 Tacon motor gets similar results as a motor 4-5X its cost with the same ease of use. In nitro the more expensive motors are usually easier to start, tune, and will last longer.

378

My Feedback: (4)

100% this, and this is why I suggest people get a good brand name of nitro from the likes of HPI, Traxxas and Associated. At least with those brands you have support in the form of DVDs, helpful manuals, DOA warranties, and 1-800 lines. The CEN engine that came in my MT2 was absolutely awful on power, it took me three months to get it to fire for the first time, and it always had a habit of flaming out for no apparent reason. The pull start would only grab the start shaft once every three or four pulls unless you pulled it off and wiped the oil off said start shaft. It took me half a year to get it to hold a decent, low idle, and even then it loved to load up with fuel and bog/flood/die. I managed to snap one of the cooling fins off the cylinder head, and then it spat the plug out at me when I had the audacity to ask it to do a donut. It held a tune pretty well and it withstood abuse pretty well, but that's about all it had going for it.


I decided enough was enough when, after two gallons, the crankshaft snapped between the drive washer and flywheel. So I bought an OS engine. MASSIVE improvement. The OS fired on the first pull when I went to break it in, it always held an idle well even when it was so rich raw fuel was dribbling out the pipe, it never flames out, it never runs hot, it was a breeze to get into tune, and it's got more power than the CEN's driveline could handle.

Just outta curiosity, after I had the OS in and running good, I pulled the CEN engine down. The piston would come out the top of the sleeve! [X(] So yeah, that thing was just about dead anyways.

4goodbuys2

If you buy a off brand nitro it will most likely end up in pieces in a box.
Buy a name brand electric and lipo. hpi ae losi

Haddi Taha

he knows that the brushless isfaster as he sees my rc's take on real cars and he had some turns on them e wants the noise and smell though, thanks for all the input