rebelsol

Thanks that will be something I look for during testing. I think it would be smart to test these lexan parts first. They may work..they may not.. you don't know for sure until you test them..and beat the snot out of them.

Over the past couple days I have been gradually working on the Twin Verticle Chassis Plates (TVP's). I started out with a basic drawing with dimensions I knew the Tvps had to fit into. I then made a couple copies of that drawing and taped them to the 3mm (1/8") 6061-T6 Aluminum sheet I bought off of ebay.

Once I got the basic rectangles cut out and I drew the cut at the bottom of the plates that increase the ground clearance. At this point I was ready to mount them to the lexan pieces. I won't explain the boreing and lengthly method I used to get all the holes in the right places and to make sure they line up..so i will skip to the pictures...

*Keep in mind that these Tvp's aren't even close to being finished.. once I get the motor, battery, servo,etc mounted I will take everything back off and finish the design, shorten them, cut sections out to reduce weight, and file the pieces*








The next task on the list is to cut a section out of the left TVP for the motor to fit through and also get the motor mounted up.

rc theman

Lovin the build, it's making me motivated to start my own project!!! Keep it up!

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

If the TVP's are just mounted to the lexan on the front and rear clips, I don't think that will be strong enough. Looks good so far, I just think that will be a weak point.

I used to make crawler chassis's out of lexan so that's what I'm basing my info on. Have you thought about trying to use a battery holder off a E-Savage or Savage Flux [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWVC7&P=Z]link[/link] to hang on side of TVP for your battery? What's your idea?
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZAU9&P=7]This[/link] or [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPZW9&P=7]this[/link] might work too

Krazy Chicken

looking good, mount up the body and tires so we can see it haha

depro

That's an awesome design. Way to break away from the good ol' flat chassis. Your spur gear seems kinda buried up in the front there. Are you going to cut out a large chunk from one of the tvp's to squeeze the motor in there? I would suggest breaking down and buying a sheet of Nylon 6/6. You'll never have to worry about that breaking or snapping like Lexan might.

FahrtAutoRC

I just saw pics of the vehicle in the newest edition of XRC, looked great before, curious to see what it will become...

rebelsol

For the batteries I do plan to have them mounted like a Flux or E-savage..I'm still trying to figure out how to mount them like that though.

As far as the lexan goes I am going to see how it holds up. If it holds up I'll keep it..if not I'll look for an alternative.

Himmlerhimself: Wow I didn't even know it got put in XRC haha thanks.

Would you guys by opposed to the idea of this being a dual battery (One 2s on each side of the the Tvps so 4s total) car instead of a single 3s battery truck? Thinking possibly a Mamba 2650 or 2400 on 4s in this..?

I personally have always been not so fond of dual battery set-ups..as you have to buy more batteries and have to charge more..I have a charger that can charge two batteries at the same time..and I already have the batteries..plus I think this thing would be insane on 4s. The other thing is that it would make mounting the motor a lot easier....

So I need your opinions...? Dual battery (4s) or single 3s?

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

I think you will just have to run the truck and see how much power it will take to have fun with it to decide between 3s vs 4s. It's hard to tell and depends alot on weight and final gearing and stuff like that.

rebelsol

Well I think the weight of this will be close to that of a 1/8th buggy.

The thing is I can't really wait until I run it to decided between 4s and 3s because if I use 3s then I have to mount the motor off to the side of the spur..and if I use one 2s battery on either side of the tvp's like a flux..I have to mount the motor on top of the spur.

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

If it's going to be weight of 1/8th buggy, then I would go 4s.

rebelsol

That's what I was thinking...

I have decided to go with 4s. Since this truck is going to be close to the same weight as a 1/8th e-buggy I think 4s will be required to give it enough power.

The speedpassion silver arrow motor will be sold.

After much research I have found an inexpensive motor which I think will give this thing plenty of power. I don't want to spend a ton of money on the electronics because well.. this thing will be beaten and I don't want to feel guilty when I take this monster to the skate park..or jump it off a 20ft ledge,etc.

Anyway.. I believe I will be using this motor along with two 2s batteries. Looks like a great deal for $50
http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m802-4074-2150kv.html
I just hope 2150kv is enough.

FahrtAutoRC

Page 129 (Racer's Rides), issue 138 (August 2011), the one with the 1/16 Summit on the cover

depro

Hey I'm running that exact same motor in my homemade build actually. It weighs in at 7.3 pounds and I'm running it on 16 volts. I've got it geared to hit 75mph in first gear which is a little high... and the motor runs around 120-140 degrees on a hot day. You'll be glad you have those thick axles because this motor definitely puts out a ton of torque.

rebelsol

Himmlerhimself: Thanks!

Well I ordered a motor today but its not the tacon 2150kv motor that I showed you guys earlier...that's because I found a steal of a deal on a used original neu 1515 1y/f 2200kv motor for $50 shipped! For those who aren't well versed on neu motors...neu is the company which castle creations partnered up with to make the castle mamba monster line of motors. Neu is known for making arguebly the best brushless motors you can buy..but they are also known for having very high prices. The motor I just bought is very similar to the castle 2200 motor. So...basically..im getting perhaps one of the best motors you can get for the same price as the tacon motor...im pretty psyched!

Right now im working on the motor mount so that I can mount the motor once it gets here.

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

Heck yea man, I think that will be all the power you will ever need on 4s. It should be a monster.

rebelsol

Yea a basher isn't a true basher unless its atleast a little bit over powered!

I got the motor today and it looks to be in great condition. And uh...its pretty darn big,but it fits perfectly in between the front and rear shocks. On to the pictures..



Here is a comparison between a regular 540 motor, a 550 motor (the motor I previously was going to use in this truck) , and the beast Neu 1515 2200kv.





This thing is going to be insane! Anyway, the next couple days I will be working on the driveling and will get some pictures of this thing mounted on the chassis.

depro

That's definitely an incredible motor. I'm curious to know your techniques for getting all the holes to line up perfectly. Could you explain that process a little bit?

rebelsol

Well, it depends on the materials I am using. I have been using alot of aluminum on this project. I really actually don't do much of anything special. I design all my parts on graph paper. So I take the measurements on certain parts using a digital caliper and plot them on the graph paper according to a center line that I have drawn for that certain part. The actual process of getting all the measurements I need isn't rocket-science but its a hard process to try to explain in words. But, I have found the more accurate I plot the point on my drawing the closer they will be to being right on. Once my design is complete I scan the graph paper and make copies of it. I'll take a copy and cut it down and then tape it to what ever material I am going to be using with clear packaging tape. The most accurate way to get the hole started where you want it is by using a center punch..this makes it so when you go to drill the hole the drill bit doesn't "walk" on the surface of the material because its so smooth.(That step is optional) To drill most of my holes, I use a drill press but for some of them I just use a hand drill. Ok so once I center punch the holes I then drill the holes using a somewhat small drill bit. This makes it so I can measure where I actually drilled the hole and see if I need to drill a bigger hole in slightly a different direction to get the hole to be in the correct place. If its dead on then I just drill it with a large drill bit.

For materials like lexan..the process is a lot easier because its clear and so its much easier to figure out where you need to drill the holes since you can see right thru it.

Honestly, drilling holes has been something that I have always struggled with, especially when I first started building r/c cars. It's still something that I have problems with from time to time. Inaccuracies are to be expected though since none of us are CNC's. Best tips I can give is to just take your time, make sure your measurements are right, and use a small drill bit the first time.

I hope that helps a little bit.

I got the motor mounted today. I mounted it with a RC8e motor mount. Like I said before this motor fits perfectly! Adjusting gear mesh will obviously be a pain in the butt but it won't be to bad since I have a L - shaped allen key that I trimmed to get into that space. My only concern with this set-up is that the slots on the motor mount are vertical...so I can just imagine going off a big jump having a hard landing and the motor sliding down on the motor mount since its so heavy, so I'm trying to figure out a way to support it from underneath so that doesn't happen. But other than that it fits perfectly and the black can will fit in one I cover the aluminum in flat black vinyl.






Next I have to work on the drive line. Does anybody have a suggestion for diff fluid for the front/center/rear diffs?

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Revo diffs usually like 10k+ weight fluids, IE 50k front, 30k rear.

proanti1

My Feedback: (2)

Wow, that's a compact little truck... It would look cool with a nitro engine sitting in place of the electric motor.

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

Yea, but he wants this truck to be fast.

depro

Haha ouch. I think somebody just called nitro slow.

Thanks for the tips on drilling accurate holes. Do you just cut through the paper when you cut out the part? I usually make a little template out of clear thin plastic, punch small holes where holes in the actual part need to be made, and trace the part onto the final material with a fine tipped sharpie. Then I make little dots where I need to drill holes later. Before cutting the piece out I use my center punch to mark the holes in case the sharpie gets wiped off during cutting.

I was just thinking what if I drew up a 2d sketch of the piece on Autocad, printed it out, and glued it onto the final material with like a glue stick or something. Lately I've become somewhat of a perfectionist and its so painfully obvious holes are just a little bit off. Here's a piece I cut out today and you can tell one hole is high and one is low. By the way that plastic in the pic is nylon 6/6. If only cnc milling machines grew on trees...

f150dan

My Feedback: (18)

That motor just does fit don't it. I like it

jk47

My Feedback: (2)

 That thing looks nasty! (in a good way) haha... Looks tough as heck.

NjBasher

this truck is beautiful. cant wait to see more pics