My restored "edinger era" RC10
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My restored "edinger era" RC10
Hello everyone!
Along with posting my "cadillac era" build today, I bought a fully restored "edinger era" buggy, and got it in the mail today. It's super clean, and even has vintage electrics in it - all Novak!!!! I haven't seen a Novak servo in ages, let alone an rx!
The clear body and wing are the same thing as this car, so I'm super tempted to source them all out to a painter to have him or her duplicate this retro 1980s paint scheme, and own yet another set of "twin sister" cars.
Enjoy - and thanks for looking!
Along with posting my "cadillac era" build today, I bought a fully restored "edinger era" buggy, and got it in the mail today. It's super clean, and even has vintage electrics in it - all Novak!!!! I haven't seen a Novak servo in ages, let alone an rx!
The clear body and wing are the same thing as this car, so I'm super tempted to source them all out to a painter to have him or her duplicate this retro 1980s paint scheme, and own yet another set of "twin sister" cars.
Enjoy - and thanks for looking!
#2
RE: My restored
that paint scheme is actually pretty simple to pull off
I did one on my hornet that looked exactly like the stickers
You will need pin stripe tape, an airbrush(It CAN be brushed I did my hornets with a brush), and a little patience.
basically mask all the places not going to be black off spray 1-2 coats. peel off the masking tape(if you do it right you could mask off the white section 1st so you can peel it off in layers)
When doing the rounded sections I found making a template of the curve on paper to work best. take making tape double it up(one piece on top of another so you can peel the top piece off easy) trace the curve, and cut it out than stick it where you want the curve, and connect to it with the pin stripe tape using the thicker tape after it. Do 2 coats of orange then repeat with yellow, and finally spray it all white on the inside to make the colors pop out.
And seeing you just want to copy the paint scheme off another car it should be a cinch to trace the curves it to paper to make the template
I did one on my hornet that looked exactly like the stickers
You will need pin stripe tape, an airbrush(It CAN be brushed I did my hornets with a brush), and a little patience.
basically mask all the places not going to be black off spray 1-2 coats. peel off the masking tape(if you do it right you could mask off the white section 1st so you can peel it off in layers)
When doing the rounded sections I found making a template of the curve on paper to work best. take making tape double it up(one piece on top of another so you can peel the top piece off easy) trace the curve, and cut it out than stick it where you want the curve, and connect to it with the pin stripe tape using the thicker tape after it. Do 2 coats of orange then repeat with yellow, and finally spray it all white on the inside to make the colors pop out.
And seeing you just want to copy the paint scheme off another car it should be a cinch to trace the curves it to paper to make the template
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RE: My restored
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
that paint scheme is actually pretty simple to pull off
I did one on my hornet that looked exactly like the stickers
You will need pin stripe tape, an airbrush(It CAN be brushed I did my hornets with a brush), and a little patience.
basically mask all the places not going to be black off spray 1-2 coats. peel off the masking tape(if you do it right you could mask off the white section 1st so you can peel it off in layers)
When doing the rounded sections I found making a template of the curve on paper to work best. take making tape double it up(one piece on top of another so you can peel the top piece off easy) trace the curve, and cut it out than stick it where you want the curve, and connect to it with the pin stripe tape using the thicker tape after it. Do 2 coats of orange then repeat with yellow, and finally spray it all white on the inside to make the colors pop out.
And seeing you just want to copy the paint scheme off another car it should be a cinch to trace the curves it to paper to make the template
that paint scheme is actually pretty simple to pull off
I did one on my hornet that looked exactly like the stickers
You will need pin stripe tape, an airbrush(It CAN be brushed I did my hornets with a brush), and a little patience.
basically mask all the places not going to be black off spray 1-2 coats. peel off the masking tape(if you do it right you could mask off the white section 1st so you can peel it off in layers)
When doing the rounded sections I found making a template of the curve on paper to work best. take making tape double it up(one piece on top of another so you can peel the top piece off easy) trace the curve, and cut it out than stick it where you want the curve, and connect to it with the pin stripe tape using the thicker tape after it. Do 2 coats of orange then repeat with yellow, and finally spray it all white on the inside to make the colors pop out.
And seeing you just want to copy the paint scheme off another car it should be a cinch to trace the curves it to paper to make the template
Are those stickers Tamiya Hornet stickers? If not, can you point me in the right direction?
The dragn will be very grateful to you if you supply me with these answers. I'd owe you big-time hoss
Other than that, I can match the colors and do it all myself. I used to use plain old masking tape, but that new fangled blue painter's tape is wicked awesome. I know what you're talking about with the double-curve/ rounded corner cut. I had to do that multiple times for that rally car body that I masked and painted. The round corners on the taillights and headlights peeled up, and I had to replicate them, only by double-cutting exactly the way I understand that you described.
Lemme know about those decals
Thanks again!
#4
RE: My restored
I've had good success with parma fascolors for lexan
I've used them in my 1 stage badger, and my 2 stage airbrush with great success. Also cleanup was pretty simple just use water to rinse it out. And if you miss some let rubbing alcohol sit in it for a bit, and it will come right out (also can use rubbing alcohol to clean up imperfections/stip the body )
as for the stickers I dunno those you will have fun finding. Hornet has some that look similar, also has a pile of fake sponsor ones.
I've used oil based paints a long time ago and found them to be a pain to clean
I've used them in my 1 stage badger, and my 2 stage airbrush with great success. Also cleanup was pretty simple just use water to rinse it out. And if you miss some let rubbing alcohol sit in it for a bit, and it will come right out (also can use rubbing alcohol to clean up imperfections/stip the body )
as for the stickers I dunno those you will have fun finding. Hornet has some that look similar, also has a pile of fake sponsor ones.
I've used oil based paints a long time ago and found them to be a pain to clean
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RE: My restored
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
I've had good success with parma fascolors for lexan
I've used them in my 1 stage badger, and my 2 stage airbrush with great success. Also cleanup was pretty simple just use water to rinse it out. And if you miss some let rubbing alcohol sit in it for a bit, and it will come right out (also can use rubbing alcohol to clean up imperfections/stip the body )
as for the stickers I dunno those you will have fun finding. Hornet has some that look similar, also has a pile of fake sponsor ones.
I've used oil based paints a long time ago and found them to be a pain to clean
I've had good success with parma fascolors for lexan
I've used them in my 1 stage badger, and my 2 stage airbrush with great success. Also cleanup was pretty simple just use water to rinse it out. And if you miss some let rubbing alcohol sit in it for a bit, and it will come right out (also can use rubbing alcohol to clean up imperfections/stip the body )
as for the stickers I dunno those you will have fun finding. Hornet has some that look similar, also has a pile of fake sponsor ones.
I've used oil based paints a long time ago and found them to be a pain to clean
I've painted bodies alot, but never ultimately like the outcome (I'm an artist yet this medium is not my forte) and I'm just too picky. I don't mention much other than I'm either happy or unhappy with my own results, and there's a few small things that my pics do not reveal
I like your passion for painting, and love your advice. I've been looking on and off for water-based polycarb paints, and thanks - I will get those the next time I do a different body
Thanks again hoss
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RE: My restored
received mine via ups yesterday, everything looks good and all parts were there exept the sway bar and antenna. not sure if the esc works yet but not to worried. i amplanning a richard pettySTP style paint scheme in some variation.will post pics when done. if it turns out good. also, thanks for the info on the car.
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RE: My restored
ORIGINAL: chase1
received mine via ups yesterday, everything looks good and all parts were there exept the sway bar and antenna. not sure if the esc works yet but not to worried. i amplanning a richard pettySTP style paint scheme in some variation.will post pics when done. if it turns out good. also, thanks for the info on the car.
received mine via ups yesterday, everything looks good and all parts were there exept the sway bar and antenna. not sure if the esc works yet but not to worried. i amplanning a richard pettySTP style paint scheme in some variation.will post pics when done. if it turns out good. also, thanks for the info on the car.
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RE: My restored
is there any fix for getting the body to sit flush with the chassis right belowwhere your hella lights are mounted or is that just how they are? the car looks great.love the window nets, you must have a real steady hand.
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RE: My restored
Thanks! I can't take any credit for this body design this time. Jeff from billetproofcustoms restored this car and painted that. I sent out my clear body and wing and asked him to replicate that scheme, so I can have twin kits. I did ask him to switch around and swap a couple of stickers, to give it some character.
The body area under the fog lights does sit flush on top of the chassis for both my cars. Jeff had to put some electrical tape over the paint in that area, because the body rubs right against the aluminum edge right there. I did the same thing to the body he painted for me when I got it back.
When I got my clear body, it came trimmed already. I have read somewhere on an rc forum that the slots in the back for the rear shock tower is tricky to trim properly. Mine were okay, but I cleaned them up really good. Looking at both cars right now, I can say that to get the body flush with the chassis, is to make sure the rear shock tower slots and the edges all around the front nose need to be trimmed up right. You may also want to pay attention to the area on the body, right above the rear turnbuckles. When the rear suspension compresses, the turnbuckles hit the body in that spot. Take a look at the angled cut on my Cadillac era body (the one in the background) www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10843742/tm.htm and you can see that the turnbuckle now clears that spot.
The window nets are not painted. Jeff cut the out two windows on each side (the small "v" one and the big one), and glued a black plastic piece of mesh on each side. I don't know what it exactly is, or where he got it, but it really compliments the foglights.
The body area under the fog lights does sit flush on top of the chassis for both my cars. Jeff had to put some electrical tape over the paint in that area, because the body rubs right against the aluminum edge right there. I did the same thing to the body he painted for me when I got it back.
When I got my clear body, it came trimmed already. I have read somewhere on an rc forum that the slots in the back for the rear shock tower is tricky to trim properly. Mine were okay, but I cleaned them up really good. Looking at both cars right now, I can say that to get the body flush with the chassis, is to make sure the rear shock tower slots and the edges all around the front nose need to be trimmed up right. You may also want to pay attention to the area on the body, right above the rear turnbuckles. When the rear suspension compresses, the turnbuckles hit the body in that spot. Take a look at the angled cut on my Cadillac era body (the one in the background) www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10843742/tm.htm and you can see that the turnbuckle now clears that spot.
The window nets are not painted. Jeff cut the out two windows on each side (the small "v" one and the big one), and glued a black plastic piece of mesh on each side. I don't know what it exactly is, or where he got it, but it really compliments the foglights.
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RE: My restored
Over this weekend, I added some brand new MIP cvds to the rear, and completed the combined Jay Halsey and Bob Gagne's 6 gear tranny make-over. I couldn't get any of the new black idler gears this time, and boy those black gears made a difference. I trashed one set of the white idlers making the mods to the transmission Otherwise, I am very happy with the end results, and it now runs silky smooth and actually feels smoother than the 1st tranny I modified.
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RE: My restored
Yah mon - wicked sweet and awesome!!!!!
Naw, I installed the MIP cvds just like the original instructions said. I modded the entire transmission, with my two instruction guides, and made it even better. I should hope to have updated photos soon.
Naw, I installed the MIP cvds just like the original instructions said. I modded the entire transmission, with my two instruction guides, and made it even better. I should hope to have updated photos soon.