egbasher

Snapped a driveshaft at that low a speed. Sorry for your bad luck. I hit a tree at about 25 or 30 right after I put in a brushless motor and snapped the hinge where the front bulkhead and chassis meet. That meant almost a total rebuild. And the chassis was graphite! Went back to a plastic one and, now that I am a better driver, no problems. Maybe the foam and cones around the trees that EXT2Rob mentioned in an earlier post helps, too .

As for this weekend, it's World Series time.

[quote]ORIGINAL: DieHard1207

Dude, I can't tell you how many freakin times that I have CHUCKED my Evader, that's right, I have thrown it clear acrossed the yard. You know what's funny though, is I never broke anything doing that, yet I break something when crashing a tree at 5mph.Last time I did that, was when I snapped a drive shaft, but threw it anyway even though I had a spare. Anybody have any big plans for the weekend?

DieHarder

Yeah, looks like Tigers might be in a bind. They've lost 2 games already They have towin 4 out of the next 5to win, and the Giants only need to win 2 out of the next 5 to win. If they lose tomorrow, I think their sunk, unless Cabrera comes alive, and the stop hitting off Verlander.
[quote]ORIGINAL: egbasher

Snapped a driveshaft at that low a speed. Sorry for your bad luck. I hit a tree at about 25 or 30 right after I put in a brushless motor and snapped the hinge where the front bulkhead and chassis meet. That meant almost a total rebuild. And the chassis was graphite! Went back to a plastic one and, now that I am a better driver, no problems. Maybe the foam and cones around the trees that EXT2Rob mentioned in an earlier post helps, too .

As for this weekend, it's World Series time.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Stuff I've done to my Evader to make it tougher:
Drivetrain - Replaced diff with brushless-model metal diff (BIGGEST improvement!), replaced diff drive-cup retainer-pin/bevel-gear pin with .047in/1.19mm music wire, installed DTX CV axles and replaced CV pin with 1.19mm music wire, used .062in/1,57mm music wire for wheel drive pins. Lube diff & tranny with Trak-Power Gear Grease.

Replaced the stock steering servo with a metal gear servo. An inexpensive one from HobbyPartz will suffice.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/servo-mg946r.html

Chassis: Added a front bumper (RPM) (this was b4 DTX came out with the bumper for BL model). Tho I installed a graphite chassis, it was only cuz I got it dirt cheap. I wouldn't recommend one, as they're more brittle. BUT graphite rear hubs will last MUCH longer than stock. Aluminum would also be good here. Installed "screw-through" as opposed to "screw-IN" ball studs and secured them with a nut in the rear hubs. The only other aluminum part I like is the motor plate. Pricey at $25, but it helps cool the motor. Replace the two screws at the front of the chassis brace that screw into the bulkhead with longer screws, and nuts. Those always pull out if you don't. (maybe an aluminum front bulkhead would also solve that) Replaced ALL screws with hex-head, phillips suck! The rear of the car could use a bumper. The BL model wheelie bar and rear chassis plate would suffice. Upgraded to aluminum or hard-anodized shocks.

Wheels and tires: I run on dirt, and I've found that I like Pro-Line Gladiators on the rear, Dirt Hawg II's on the front, with RPM Slingshot wheels that also fit the Losi XXX-T.

Body: Get a tube a Shoe-Goo and put a coat along the bottom edges of the body about a half inch wide. The rear edge of the body at the "spoiler lip" is particularly susceptible to cracking, also the reliefs in the body for the rear shock tops.

With these mods, my cars have no trouble being run hard. I run HobbyWing EZrun 35A/9T(4300kv) motor systems geared 18/87 on 2S LiPo with no problems and plenty of power and speed. (40mph) Tho my buddy is saying he thinks he likes the 3000kv motor better with that system. More useable throttle range.

EGbasher and Ihad a race day a couple days ago. Ran thru EIGHT LiPos! That's a really good day. Didn't break anything until the end of the day when a chance hit broke my servo-saver arm. Got a spare, tho....

egbasher

egbasher

Good list of mods to make the Evader nearly bulletproof, EXT2Rob. You forgot to mention upgrading all the bearings in the car. That makes a big difference. DTX's stock bearings aren't bad but they are not sealed and if you run in a dusty place (like we do) they go bad quickIy. Nothing like spinning a wheel and having it sound like a pepper grinder. Acer brand: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURB&P=Z have given me over a year of service with no problems. Don't forget the 4 in the tranny. I also highly reccomend the BL evader front bumper. Fits perfectly (take off the little plastic piece across the front bulkhead - the bumper replaces that part too) and provides great protection.

I'm not convinced the aluminum shocks are worth the investment, except for looks. I have two evaders both upgraded to EZRun motors, a 3000kV and a 4300kV. One has the stock shocks and the other I upgraded to aluminum. The Al ones do look really cool and I haven't had any problems with them, but they don't seem to affect the way the car drives. They definitely are more robust than the plastic ones but I have had to rebuild/refill the AL ones at least as frequently as the plastic ones. The track we run on is pretty bumpy and gives the shocks a real workout. I changed to shock oil from 20 wt. (stock) to 35 wt. BIG difference. If you're running on a smooth surface I doubt you'd see a differnce but on a bumpy surface the car is a lot more stable with the heavier weight oil. With the stok oil the car was bouncing all over the place and the wheels were hardly ever in contact with the ground.

I swear the evader with the 3000kV motor and the plastic shocks is faster around the track and definitely a lot easier to drive. The 4300 faster in a straight line but it is too easy to break the tires loose and spin out. You'd think with the 3000 having more torque it would spin the wheels easier, but it's not so. Maybe I need to gear the 4300 differently, although motor temps seem good - around 150 on an 85 degree day. Gotta do some scientific testing.

egbasher

Oops. Sorry, wrong link in the previous post for the bearings. Here is the correct link: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXSW0

DieHarder

Sealed Bearings FTW!!!

Crash7772

Got a list of goodies coming...I hope the B2 and metal idler will hold up to the power I'm running.
The following shipped from Reno, Nevada
Estimate of when you will receive your shipment: 8-Nov-2012 – 12-Nov-2012
TH8Z Tower Hobbies Annual Catalog 1
TOWZ2250 TOWER SPECIAL OFFERS-C 1
LXEAK5 Associated Kimbrough Spur Gear 87T 1
L5EAC703 Associated Slipper Pad RC10B4 (2) 3
LXEAK2 Associated Kimbrough Spur Gear 81T 1
LXD109 Duratrax Bearing 5x8mm (2) 1
L5322502 Associated Differential Drive Rings 2.40:1 B2 2
LXWMG6 Associated Spur Gear 48P 72T B4/T4 1
LXCME3 Jaco Eliminator 2.2" Low Pro Mount Foam Rear (2)
L5322403 Associated Differential Gear 2.40:1 B2 2
LXBNFV Associated Wheel Hex Adapters B4 1
LXCME2 Jaco Eliminator 2.2" Low Pro Mount Foam Front (2)
LXAEJL Duratrax Idler Gear Metal & Shaft Evader EXT2 3

DieHarder

Gee... What'd that cost?!  Just kidding just kidding!

Crash7772

Enough but I wanted extras. I have a Evader Pro ST, my son has a Evader ST, and I have a extra ST gearbox. Probably won't happen this year but hoping to get a video of 80+ mph Evader. This is my current competition [link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKGBqh74XRw&feature=plcp[/link] , I was the first one to say 75mph in the video. He has hit 80 but can't keep it from flipping or keep tires on it.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

Have you considered running foams? i've heard those will hold up better at speeds?

the lug

cumquat

i know a lot of speedrun cars use foams because they dont balloon so you have more contact with the road.

Crash7772

Yup...they are in my list of parts. My buddy tried the belted tires but he blew them around 80. For some reason he seemed against foams. It is kinda nice having the tires balloon because it's almost like another gear but they separate from the rim so not really an option for high speeds.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

okay cuz i think cheech4 was pushing 80 or so with foams...

the lug

Crash7772

I know he had a fast one but I haven't seen any documentation of any Evader in the 65+ range but I know there is a Rusty on Youtube running foams and is hitting 110+.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

EGbasher:
"I'm not convinced the aluminum shocks are worth the investment, except for looks.  I have two evaders both upgraded to EZRun motors, a 3000kV and a 4300kV.  One has the stock shocks and the other I upgraded to aluminum.  The Al ones do look really cool and I haven't had any problems with them, but they don't seem to affect the way the car drives.  They definitely are more robust than the plastic ones but I have had to rebuild/refill the AL ones at least as frequently as the plastic ones. "

True, but the reason I mentioned them as an "upgrade" is that the plastic ones seemed to have a tendency for that bottom cap to unscrew and eventually break if you don't notice it. (although you haven't had that issue)  Good way to avoid that is to glue the sucker.  If you do that, the plastic shocks should hold up just as well as the metal ones.  I believe all shocks need topping up on a regular basis.  I wonder, tho, if, because the plastic ones have bladder-caps, and the metal ones don't, that the plastic ones loose fluid less than the metal ones?  And you're right, I missed mentioning the shock fluid weight. 35wt is better.

DieHarder

WILL SOMEONE PLEASE EXPLAIN THE WHOLE OIL WEIGHT SCALE!?!?! [&:] Some hobby shops are telling me the higher the number the thinner the oil, and other hobby shops and online resources are telling me opposite. Will someone please clear this up for me!?

Crash7772

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z16X-lKOMhw

DieHarder

Thanks. That cleared things up!

Crash7772

I looked around for a few videos and this one explained oils and springs in great detail in my opinion plus it was made/posted by a decent site. I think visual combined with voice is the best way to explain it as it takes second guessing away from just hearing it (getting you own ideas from what you hear). Youtube can be great for learning if you search right.

DieHarder

Guess I'll check the Tube next time I'm wondering how something works. Didn't think of it at the time.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah Jang from URC is great ton of good info. Anybody going to be/being hit by sandy currently?

the lug

DieHarder

I didn't know the Evaders came with plastic shocks. I'm pretty sure of that. Let me look... well...um...gee...uhh...I uhh...guess your right. The EXT2 has plastic shock bodies. I have an Evader ST and it came with aluminum shocks. They must have cheapened them up or something.
[quote]ORIGINAL: egbasher
I have two evaders both upgraded to EZRun motors, a 3000kV and a 4300kV. One has the stock shocks and the other I upgraded to aluminum. The Al ones do look really cool and I haven't had any problems with them, but they don't seem to affect the way the car drives.

rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

yeah ST had aluminum, ST pro had hard anno'd aluminum, ext had all plastics, ext2 and Bl have plastic body aluminum caps because people were blowing the plastics off too easily

the lug

DieHarder

Let's see. I know Lunchboxer, DarkFire, and Cumminspower are getting hit with it. looks like it's swinging my way. Might get cumquat soon. By the way lug, have you ever driven a Savage Flux XS? (Or anybody out there) I was looking at getting one, but never acually had a 4wd vehicle let alone a truck. If so, would you recommend one?