EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Phew! Good.

RustyUs

Perfect, thanks.

RustyUs

The past week or so I have been searching for the Losi XXXT White Natural Rims...even those are getting hard to come by. I found some at a reasonable price so I got a half dozen sets from A-Main Hobbies and GS Hobby. Me being the way I am (I like to have back ups for everthing) I started going into panic mode of not being able to find XXXT rims, and it seems every manufacturer is going to the hex rims. I guess the whole hex thing has evolved to handle more power? My Kyosho Optima, back in the day(1983), had 12mm aluminum hex adapters on from the factory.

Anyway, I was looking for an answer of what brands of hex adaptors anyone has used for the Duratrax Evaders, and how it affected the rear width (this was how I initially stumbled upon TEC back in June). I dug into my AE SC10.2FT box and tried the FRONT (#9893) Hex Adapters on the rear of my Evader ST (EXT axles)...the.fit is perfect! The rear (#9892) hex adapters will work also, but they are wider and has a bigger lip...causing increased total width to the Evader's rear end. How much wider?......I don't know. I don't have any Stadium Truck hex rims to calculate offset...yet.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Having the track wider is only going to make things better I'd think. My buddy runs RPM Talon wheels that have a shallower offset, which pushes the wheels to the outside by 5mm or so.
I use the RPM Slingshots for the XXXT, pin drive. Great wheels. http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product.../slingshot.htm

Going hex, tho, allows you to rotate your tires. And if you use clamping hexes, you don't have to worry about pins at all!

RustyUs

I don't know if I would go without the pins (thanks btw). Those pins are the driving force to turn the hexes. AE's Clamping Wheel Hexes clamp securely onto the axle, preventing the hex from getting stuck in your wheels, which allows for speedy wheel changes.

RustyUs

I'm on page 498 I think of the old TEC. I skipped around (like 20 or so pages at a time) before. Now at night, while watching TV, I read the evolution of the Evader. I'm at the point in the forum where everyone is tip toeing around the idea of buying LiPos and the best chargers to charge this new power source. Call me weird, but I get a smirk on my face and LOL once in a while reading TEC. Man, I can remember when 1400 Matched SCR Nicds were all that was needed to finish a race.

RustyUs

Anyone know what is the smallest pinion you can use and the largest spur gear that will fit in the cover without rubbing? Right now I got a Associated 87T spur and a 15T pinion gear. My motor still gets a lil hot.

cumquat

define "a lil hot". can you keep your finger on it for 3 seconds without getting burned?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

The 87T spur is the stock size. 15T pinion is way small, so your motor is probably running full-bore most of the time, and that will also make it run warmer. Stock pinion is 20T. I found that for my Evader with the EZrun system, it likes a 19T pinion. Even if it's warm outside, and I always keep an eye on temps with an IR thermometer, that it would rarely get too hot. Temps stayed within range and I had plenty of speed, so 19T/87T is where it stayed. You can fit an 88T in there, maybe an 89T, but not much more, unless you just remove the gear cover entirely. In which case, running off-road, in dirt, is not something I would do. The Brushless model Evader came with a 24T pinion. But that was on a car with a Castle-made motor system that could probably handle that gearing. Unless you REALLY know what you're doing, making major gearing changes can get you into trouble with heating issues.

RustyUs

It's very close to burnin' my fingers at 3 seconds. I also only run the EZRun 4300kv motor at 75% to save my rims (last set of Duratrax) from getting shredded to pieces. The track is hard; dry; dusty. I've run the same set-up for the past few years and have not had any problems. Only once I melted a spur...slipper too loose. One of these days Ill get a temp gun. I was just curious if anyone heard of someone using a super small pinion, cause I'm about outta room on the motor plate.

Probably in a week, or so, I figure my current rims are gonna be totally worthless. The outsides are crackin', with chunks of plastic missing, and I see hairline cracks in the center mounting section. I can't believe I've went all these years using only stock Duratrax wheels. That's all thanks to eBay and someone selling 10 pairs of rims to the lucky/unlucky highest bidder...me.

cumquat

it's right where it should be then. no need to change the gearing.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

AH, OK. So yeah, if you're running the same system I am, I suggest a 19T pinion, 20T if your local temps are suitable for it. With one of those pinions you should be able to consistantly keep your temps less than 160F easily. With track temps around 100F, air temp 85F My car would run for a whole battery and never get over 130F

Get the RPM Talons for the XXXT, bearings front, pin-drive rear. RPM anything is good. T-Bone Racing makes a front/rear bumper just for the Evader that's good too.

DieHarder

The stock setup on his ST Pro is 88/20. Not 87T. Robinson Racing makes a very good Stealth Pro 87T #1887 that bolts right on. 15T pinion is way small for an EZrun. I agree with Rob and suggest a 19-20T. 21T might not be bad either with the 87T spur. You can put a 90T Robinson Racing spur on and still get the gear cover over it, I believe. I haven't actually tried it, but I think the 90T spur is listed in the aftermarket hop up section of the ST parts list. So it should fit. I have a VXL3S system in my Evader so I am used to the insane, bad design high temps on the ESC and motor, but I do know that your motor should stay under 180F and the ESC under 150F at the max. If you have a battery over 30C, your battery temps should be below 120F. For pin drive, Talons are good. Otherwise I'm still having good luck with the Duratrax EXT2/BL rims. Just make sure you tighten down the wheel nuts really well and replace them every year or so.

RustyUs

Thanks for everyone's input with the temp info. Maybe my fingers are very sensitive and the motor feels hotter than what it actually is.

Other Subject: Front Hex
I'm givin up on the front end hex conversion thing. If I run into a situation that I cant find any more rims that use bearings...the Evader will be put into a box and off to a new home. I did manage to whip out some of my spare stash of SC10 parts and installed a steering knuckle/castor block into my Evader front arm. With some minor dremeling...it fits nice. The ball end would need to be reversed on the castor block and the tie rods lengthened a bit. Then I noticed there is a substantial increase in width (9mm). This is where I gave up.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Dude! Ya don't need to give up on the 'Vader cuz ya can't find wheels! They ARE out there! I use the RPM Slingshot wheels for the Losi XXXT, #81873 front wheels for use with bearings, #81863 rear wheels with pin drive.

RustyUs

I got enough Losi & JConcepts rims,at the moment, to last me a couple of years. I hope to get more than a couple of days/weeks from Losi's wheels. The chrome thing...not for me. I am more of a white dish/yellow rim type of guy.

Unless you went back to 1992...you would find that I was dyeing my HPI rims hot pink to match body colors for my RC10 back in the day. I don't have the magazine anymore, but my RC10 was in RCCA Reader's Rides.



Maybe, I'll ask the wife for a premium online edition of RCCA (Christmas present) and try and find the back issue. I don't know how far back the issues go.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Hey, I hear ya. In fact, the chrome slingshots I have on my Subievader, I painted gold! (To match the Subaru WRC livery) But you like dish wheels. Cool.
I also dyed the dish wheels on my Hyper TT. Great way to customize.

So you're having a hard time finding DISH wheels for the Evader?

RustyUs

I can find some of the discontinued L0SA7154, it's just I'm not paying more than $5 for a pair. If in a couple of years someone still has any of the white natural rear rims, I may pay retail price. Some online stores only have 1 or 2 pairs of rear rims. When I buy rims, I like to get at least 4~5 pair at one time. I cleaned out Phil's Hobby Shop and GS Hobby of their rear Losi XXXT rims. I know I'm cheap...I call it thrifty, but hey, that's why alot of people bought the Evaders back in the day and EXTs today.

I gotta go make some dirt fly...this is the day these darn Duratrax rims are gonna be "toast".

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

I hear ya about "thrifty" too! I'm retired, so I don't have unlimited cash to throw at my chosen hobby. But you have to admit, it's not really a cheap hobby to be in.
On a different tack, ever see these?: www.badhorsie.com

RustyUs

That's pretty cool. I've seen different types of "shock socks" but not those. I like the fact they use Scotchgard. What really got my attention is the Diff Locking Grease. I'd be willing to try it, but me being "getting the most bang for the buck" person, I have large tube of high temp bearing grease that seems ok and hasn't given me any problems. I do have that stuff you were suggesting to try (TrakPower grease) on my Tower H wishlist also.

DieHarder

I use high temp bearing grease also. I get it from my neighbor's work place.

RustyUs

I'm waiting for my last 1/8 scale truggy to sell, on a online auction site, so I can purchase some medium compound tires (Gladiators) and more rims... I have never use anything but "soft" compound tires on any of my rides (unless they came with the kit(s) as OE). I can't wait to set my ESC to 100%; slap on some Losi rims and see what I have been missing all these years. I have high expectations for now.

I would love to do what DieHarder did with those Badlands, but I can't gear any lower than what I'm at. I wish ProLine would make a lower profile version of the Badlands. Ive seen a knockoff buggy version online. Step pins are my favorite tread of choice over the years of running the ST.

I think my beatin up rims have another couple of runs in them from a washer I installed.



I need to try flanged nuts that I seen while searching for rims. Anyone ever used 4mm flanged nuts on your axles?

DieHarder

I use 4mm flange nuts. I think you will have to go to 32P, gear it low, and get a bigger motor if you want to swing 5" tires without destroying something. Mine still isn't flawless, but it's much better than it used to be.

RustyUs

Well now, I checked my email, and I see that a shipment from Tower H is on it's way. I forgot about my order back in May/June. The two Assembled Brushless Evader Differentials sure do take a long time to make...LOL. I guess this is a sign that I will be keeping the Evader until they come out with a Associated RC10T7.3 Stadium Truck (sarcasm). My first Brushless Evader Diff/Tranny is on it's 3+ years of use. I'm in too deep now having all these rims and tranny parts coming.

I am on ebay all the time looking for bargains on parts, and I ran across the Team Durango DEST210R priced at 149.00 and free shipping. But that price gives me thoughts of a item being discontinued. If I didn't have so much fun running the Evader in my backyard, and I was thinking about getting into racing again....I would have to try one out...just to be different.

RustyUs

I'm up to 560 something in the TEC Part 1 forum, and I have yet to see anyone using or talk about using a flanged nut to secure their wheels on the axles. They look like they would distribute the pressure more evenly IMO. Those flanged nuts should be standard equipment. Just my $.02

Be back soon with my own review of Losi rims/Gladiators on my hard packed; pebble imbedded; bumpy; pore cloggin'; rim chewing track.

I gotta go in the house (in the garage now) and round up my girls, and put 'em school mode....

One last thing...my Evader ST Pro is...technically my daughter's (6th Birthday present, she's now 13). She lost interest in it, and lets me borrow it everyday to play with.