EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

The main diff gasket never seemed to leak on mine. Of course, I was using gear grease in the diff, not diff fluid. The places where fluid leaks out is usually around the outdrives. The o-ring seals only do so well. You're going to get a little seepage no matter what.

RustyUs

I should have tried diff fluid years ago. When I first got the Brushless Evader diff it was lightly greased out of the package. I never thought that much of it, but I always see in the manual to ...fill diff with 20,000 oil or higher.

Well, after running a couple of packs through the Evader, I can definitely see more of a straight line takeoff using diff fluid (30k). I didn't want to waste time messing with different thicknesses and went with a little thicker than what's suggested in the manual. I'm happy with the 30k for now in the ST, until the need comes up to buy thicker stuff for another model.

I'm done with putting grease in my diffs. After using silicone diff fluid, when rebuilding the tranny, it is so much easier to clean and get out of the diff. Why didn't somebody tell me this before? The thickest grease I thought I had isn't as thick as what's inside the diff now.

Oh, and the original diff gaskets/seals must have been doin' their job (for the most part), 'cause when I opened the diff up again, I found it to be 3/4 full like when I filled it.
Yeah, that's looks to be the case, but there is not enough "leakage" (at the moment) to make a mess of things after a run, or tearing apart the gearbox. I will have to finish this year with the testing of the diff fluid to see how everything holds up.

egbasher

I'll bet the fluid works fine. Geez...30k weight is closer to grease viscosity than a fluid!

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah really, 30K weight? That's almost grease! I always used TrakPower Gear Grease in the diff. But I'll bet that 30,000wt fluid works well too. Better, probably. I wouldn't think you'd get much seepage with stuff that thick.

RustyUs

Can't let the coalition pass on by, or fade away, so I tried to get some shots of letting "it" fly...

RustyUs

30K weight diff oil is a lot like molasses or Karo syrup. I got some 300,000 diff stuff coming in the mail for my other RC.

I'm getting ready to tear down and inspect the tranny. I'm over my monthly scheduled maintenance...it's over two months now since I last opened the gearbox and diff.

I was searching some of the Duratrax auctions on ebay, and a custom built "Duratrax Evader EXT BRUSHLESS capable transmission w POSI TRACTION rear end" popped up on the screen. Me being the Curious George that I am, had to dig deeper. I as looking at the pictures, and reading the description. It took me a while to get the gist of what the dude was doing. I never seen this soldering done to the diff before.

DieHarder

Dang. That's a neat idea. I would probably weld it though. I guess if you're running dirt full time or doing 2WD rock racing , this could really work out. Just ran my Evader today with a Dynamite GPS Speed Meter. I got 37mph, which is pretty good considering I was running on a loosely packed, freshly graded (less than an hour ago) dirt road. I'm hoping to get a shot at some pavement within the next week to really see what she's hitting. Then maybe I'll try a 3S.

Nice shots btw!

RustyUs

From what I gather, and seen, the guy was soldering the output joint cause of the little output joint pins busting. I would think there would be a possibility of ruining the o-ring and not getting a complete secure solder joint.

I like the old idea of using music wire instead.

It's just the fact that the Evader "diff output soldering thing" never appeared in any forums... was just weird and made me have to take a double look of the pictures.

cumquat

what he calls "posi-traction" i call a locked diff. not the best idea. but possibly the most durable.

langgin19

I have the evader bx and I was wondering what wheels can I use I can't find info anywhere. Thank you

RustyUs

You will be able to use the old style pin drive Team Associated B4 rear rims on the rear axles. The ones I linked are the white dish rims, but there are other companies that make rims for the B4/B4.1 also.

Losi rear rims for the XX & XXX platforms will fit on the rear axle of the Duratrax BX as well. Duratrax, Associated, and Losi all used 3/16" axles back in that BX/B4/XXX time frame. The only thing I can't tell you is the off set of each rim.

And Losi XX/XXX front rims use a weird 9.5mm hex.

RustyUs

The front Team Associated B4 rims that use 3/16" x 3/8" bearings will fit the front BX axles. I think the rims that were supplied with the Associated kits, were made by Pro-Line. I'm not sure about Losi rims, I don't have any in front of me to check out. I know the XX & XXX buggy front rims will not work on the front of a BX axle. As I mentioned before, Losi used a hex design front stub axle back in the day that was 9.53mm wide.

As long as a rim uses a 3/16" x 3/8" bearing on both sides of the rim, you should be good to go at finding something to fit on the front of your BX..

langgin19

What about these hex adapters I have been hearing about what could u do or add so that I have a bigger selection?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Use the Search to search this thread for "hex adapters" or "hex conversion". Also google "wheels that fit the Losi XXXT" you find lots of choices. I used RPM Slingshots.

RustyUs

The rear hexes won't be the problem for your Evader BX buggy, just find some "clamping" hexes. They come in all kinds of widths.

The problem comes on the front end of you buggy. It's gonna involve some other buggy's front hub carriers/caster blocks; steering blocks/knuckles; axles, and some modification to fit. The only front hex conversion that I ever saw, was on an Evader ST/EXT using Traxxas Rustler, Stampede & Bandit components.

I've contemplated the same thing (hexes) for my Evader ST. For the rear clamping hexes I used the aluminum ones that came on my Associated SC10.2 FT. I've test fitted front caster blocks and steering blocks from SC10/T4.1 trucks to be used with my stock Evader arms. Not a problem until you see the total added width they give you. I then gave up the thought of using hexes for the time being, and stuck with what I know works.

Tcafb

Custom Duratrax Evader ext!! Must see!!!



This is my duratrax evader. It has soo many upgrades and custom work that I don't know where to start!! It has 78 LEDs in total, 2 3s lipo's, 5 fans for cooling(I know it's overkill but they work great!) an Turnigy Trackstar 150a 1/8 scale sensored esc, Turnigy 540 Trackstar 4850kv 4pole brushless motor, an dimension engineering 6v 3amp sport bec, pro line powerstroke shocks, 4 channel flysky rec, rc lights full function led controller, and many more custom parts!! Next install will be an six speaker sound system. Got any questions I'll be happy to reply to. Oh one oh the best features is the ground spark system I created to shoot sparks out from the rear end with a button press on the controller. With all the extra weight on board I'm still able to pop wheelies and hit 45+mph easily with an 25 tooth pinon gear. Spur gear is 86t steel and aluminum.

!!!!!!!!!UPDATE!!!!!!!!


OK for anybody who cares i have completed my tricked out custom Duratraxx Evader. Its been a long time in the works with life and other things you have to take on a daily basis but i think im dome now. The 8 speaker 70 watt remote mp3 sound system was truly fun and rewarding to install!! This car is truly a show stopper now!! One look and listen at this car in action is something all RC car fans should see. I've only pushed it to 42 mph and its still more throttle to go. I'm going to post lots of pics and if i get some request i will post some videos of it in action. Enjoy!! Please spread this post around if possible if you think its cool or if you can. Dont know how to put this elsewhere on the forum. THANKS FOR YOUR TIME!!!!

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

PHWEEEEW!!! OK, you HAVE to get the award for "most stuff crammed under the lexan"! Jeezus, dude. How do you even change the batteries?

Yeah, would definitely like to see video. And some explanation of the digital displays. How much does that sucker weigh???

You must not run in the dirt, huh? That Integy fan would last about five minutes. They suck.

Tcafb

Yes your right, this puppy doesn't see much dirt these days, paved road/street/parking lots for this one only. This beast is 9.3 pounds so i tend to drive it with a little more respect than i used too in its old bashing days. This build started years ago with thinking " how much cool stuff can i put into one truck and still haul ass"!! As you can see the batteries where rendered non-removable after the install of the 70watt sound system. The four cooling fans only come on when temps reach 110deg. so the fans aren't on all the time. Plus the fans are wired to the secondary battery
so they don't cut in on my run time. The two red digital displays show the voltage on each 3s lipo,the big blue one is the motor temp. The 5400mah 3s 65-130c lipo only powers the esc, bec-4cha.receiver-leds. The 4000mah 3s 20c lipo handles the sound system, fans, police leds. How can i post a vid????

cumquat

first, upload to youtube. then click the "insert video" button just above the reply box.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

LOL....NINE pounds?? Man, those PL shocks and springs are workin' hard. I gotta hand it to ya, you DID manage to stuff all you could under the lid. I had to laugh at your comment about the batteries being "rendered non-removable". And a 70 Watt sound system?! Hell, my first stereo only had 50 Watts. Definitely the most over-the-top Evader build I've ever seen. I do like the idea of having visible digital displays. That's kinda cool. (Not as cool as telemetry, but still...)
Thumbs up!

Tcafb

Thanks EXT2Rob!! Dude those PL shocks are one the best upgrades on the truck. There about 4 years old and still rock like the first day i got them! No leaks (I do clean them and change the oil when needed, 40w front, 50w rear) and small jumps don't make the truck bottom-out as much as one would think a car this heavy should. Like i can run it off the curb onto the street and it makes a nice soft landing. Love to see them keep this truck rolling smoothly! I think there awesome!!! Your right about telemetry that's why i went with a Fly Sky FS-iT4 4 channel telemetry setup for this build. It fits the look i was going for with a lot of features on the cheap, plus it works well(put an custom aluminum steering wheel on it, the one it comes with is crap!).

BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

I came here to upload a quick shot of my son's Evader; but after seeing this guys' rig ^ I feel a little inadequate.

Really, I wanted to show off the wheel setup because I thought it could be something others might have been curious about. Since the Evader uses Associated style drive pins in the rear and bearings in the wheels up front I had to think about how I would go about putting SC wheels onto it. I ended up using an Associated SC10 set of hexes over the drive pins in the rear and DE Racing Trinidad for Traxxas Slash front on the rear axles. I used Trinidad's up front but for the SC10. Then I wrapped them all in ProLine Badlands. This combination ended up giving me equal offset front and rear and opened up many more tire options. I did have to trim away the front fenders on the body but depending on which lid you use you may have to do additional trimming.

RustyUs

Thanks for posting! Getting the right rim offsets has been a problem I looked into when trying to use one style or rim. Most of the time the front or rear offset would be off by a mm or two, and the other end's offset would be way off. I'll have to look into them SC10 front rims that you mentioned, as the Associated T4 front rims always made my front end 9mm wider (18mm total) than stock. I often look at my options for when I run out of my Losi rims. I will have to bookmark this.

RustyUs

You got some more room in there. I think a popcorn maker is needed yet.

I gotta see that Evader shooting sparks down the road!

BKoz559

My Feedback: (3)

Just be sure you look at the rims for the original SC10 with the bearings in the wheels, of course, and not for the later "RS" version which used hexes. I see what you mean about the T4 wheels because I have an RC10GT2 which uses basically the same setup. They have a deep dish to them like a stock Evader wheel. I didn't do a proper measurement but, these SC wheels look like they line up pretty close. You could use Slash rear wheels which might be 1 or 2mm narrower than a front set thus narrowing the rear track width slightly.

This did cross my mind but it would have been more involved; I thought of changing the front hardware on the Evader to SC10RS knuckles and axles which would allow me to use hex mounted wheels up front. I don't know if the parts would fit very well.