TSNF

Hi vic2367 and others who have an evader brushless. Have you had to tighten your servo saver yet? I've got under 8 hours of run time on mine and it seems like it's loose or set very..."weak" (my turning radius has been getting larger). I haven't taken the front brace off yet but it looks like it's right under there (I'm looking at the Replacement Parts Guide). I think I'll re-zero my steering servo horn while I'm in there.

Any gotchas that you have run into whilst doing this? Many thanks, keep sharing.

TSNF

vic2367

My Feedback: (-1)

ive never had to retighten my servo saver ,,ive had my evader like 3 months now,,but im gonna check anyway ,,

DieHarder

When you pull it apart, be sure not to loose the little gold spacer at the ends of the saver pins. They are not replaceable.

Harlow

Well I finally had a chance to tear apart the diff in my son's evader st. ( It was having the issue of when you turned the one wheel in the rear the other wheel went in the same direction) I found the cause of the problem quite quickly.....it's missing the 12 ball bearings that are suppose to be in the diff gear.

DieHarder

LOL. They are 3/32" balls.

Harlow

thanks, looking getting some replacements next weekend.... but I did mount the esc switches on both evaders. I decided to go with a direct mount instead of the double sided tape and you don't have to remove the body...

[img]<a href=[/img]" alt="" />

dtxandtrx

Gonna do this to my evader now. Looks cool!

Harlow

thanks!

DieHarder

That's where I mounted mine! LOL

Harlow

Great minds think alike! LOL!

DieHarder

Are the Graphite parts sufficently stronger than the regular? Because they are like 3 times more.

cumquat

if anything, they are weaker but they are also lighter. they were made for racing.

if you want stronger parts, reinforce them. this is easy with a drill, angle grinder or dremel, a sheet of 16 gauge sheet metal and some screws, nuts and washers. trace the outline of the part on the metal then cut it out. drill a couple holes where they line up with a gap in the arm. now put the screw through the sheet metal and put it under the arm. holding the arm and metal together, place the washer over the screw and fasten the nut on the screw. your arms are now reinforced. this wont stop them from being ripped from the chassis, but it will stop them from snapping in half. this works best for shock towers.

you could also try cutting them from 3/8ths steel. they'd be vary heavy but damn will they be strong. you'd need to drill the holes for the pins and shock screws though.

DieHarder

What your favorite Evader?

cumquat

well, i've only owned 2, and they were the ext and ext2. i'd say the ext. it was my first hobby grade and i had lots of fun with it.

JSS4

So far my only Evader is the DT, and I am having a blast with it. I just changed the gearing to 35/81 and I can't get the pinion to stay on. No more skatepark for me the way this thing lands after jumping 8 feet vertical!

dtxandtrx

My first evader was a st. It was my first hobby grade rc and still runs. But my main evader these days is a ext2. Those are also the only evaders ive ever owned.

TSNF

Well I tightened the server saver on my brushless on Friday and it made a big difference when turning of the Evader. I think I tightened it by two or three turns. The nut on the server saver is a big thing, probably reachable with needlenose pliers. I took the bracket off that sits above the server saver off and used my fingers, pretty easy - I also wanted to see what was under there.

Have fun,
TSNF

TSNF

Harlow, that looks satisfactory to me.

Here's what I did (while listening to the Olympics opening ceremony and listening to my teenagers completely pan it - they have no sense of history).

I made a test box for the battery compartment first, using a just recently discarded pasta box and when I was happy with that, I got out my sheet aluminum and fabricated a..."box" for the oversized LiPo. It turned pretty good (for eyeballing most of it).

I will upload some pictures (at lunchtime) and a template if anyone wants to make one for themselves. I used the tin snips (straight), a handheld bending brake (very handy, this thing), Dremel with cutoff wheel and grinding bit, drill and bit for the hold down hole and a fine file and a crooked eyeball (as my Dad would say).

It works great holding the big LiPo in and keeping some debri out. Now to fabricate an aluminum body so my Son can drive the Evader - ha,ha.

Enjoy,
TSNF

DieHarder

Thats interesting. I'm wondering if a Lipo battery pack would fit in my Evader ST? The ESC isn't mounted right above the battery pack, instead it's mounted on the rear shock tower.

TSNF

When I get home I can measure the thickness of my LiPo and you can check it against your car.

I have the Onyx 8000s and those are the only LiPos I have.

Have fun,
TSNF

DieHarder

I have a cracked front wheel on my Evader. Is that ok or should I replace it? (I need new tires too)

TSNF

Does the crack affect the performance of the car (same question for the tires)? If it does then get a new wheel or two (and tires). I haven't looked up the prices but they can't be that expensive.

Are you looking at direct replacements or something different?

Have fun,
TSNF

DieHarder

I wanted to get Pro-line Trencher 2.8" MNTD on Desperado Black wheels. Would the 2.8 wheels fit on my Evader St? Right now I have 2.2".

cumquat

you'd be surprised...

TSNF

I hear ya, nothing surprises me any more. Well they can't be more expensive than getting your timing belt on your car replaced, let's put it that way.

I just found these at Tower:

This is a pair of 3.8" Pro-Line Monster Truck M2 Trencher Tires Mounted
on 40 Series Tech 5 Black Wheels.

$39 per pair/$80 per car

They look like great tires/wheels - you just have to make sure they fit your vehicle.

Have fun,
TSNF