The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
08-01-2012, 10:29 AM
#451
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hi guys! Just thought I'd chime in, haven't been here for a while.......
Servo-saver - Depending on the car, the servo-saver can loosen itself, Mine did until I put a little lock tight on it. If your turning ability keeps decreasing, that is probably the cause. MY issue with the servo saver is all the slop in the many pieces of linkage. I've not been able to eliminate it.
I've been bashing my EXT2, converted to brushless, for a couple years, and I run almost every day. I've been using Gens Ace 4000mah LiPos with no problems. But now they're coming out with higher-capacity cells, and when you mentioned that an 8000mah 2S LiPo wouldn't fit, I had to check it out. I didn't realize how much THICKER the new Lipos are getting with the increased capacity! My 4000mah hard case batts measure 24mm X 45mm X 137mm. Your 8000mAh measured 33 X 43 X 135mm. That's almost 10mm THICKER I looked at a Gens Ace 2S 10,000mAh (yeah, ten-thousand!) and that sucker is 48mm thick!! A TWO CELL as thick as a 4S!! Yikes! So it looks like the largest-capacity LiPo that'll fit the Evader batt tray is a 6500mAh 2S. Or you could not use the stock batt strap and do what you're doing and using a velcro strap.
IMHO, graphite parts are not worth the the money. They may be light, but they're also brittle. Probably why DTX no longer makes them.
Wheels - Stock DTX wheels aren't very good. The ones that come on the vader can and do crack. Their dish wheels are even worse. Get some RPM wheels, very tough. I also learned that re-foaming your tires help traction a lot. That foam can break down and your sidewalls loose stiffness and tire performance goes to hell. I made my own foam inserts, cut the inner bead with a sharp blade and reglued them after installing the new foams. Worked great, till I used up the rest of the tire. Nothing beats new rubber!! I'm running RPM wheels with ProLine Dirt Hawgz on the front and PL Gladiators on the rear. For a pin tire, those Gladiators last a long time.
I'm running a HobbyWing EZrun 4300kv motor and 35A ESC. Plenty of power and speed for me running in dirt.
Cheers!
Servo-saver - Depending on the car, the servo-saver can loosen itself, Mine did until I put a little lock tight on it. If your turning ability keeps decreasing, that is probably the cause. MY issue with the servo saver is all the slop in the many pieces of linkage. I've not been able to eliminate it.
I've been bashing my EXT2, converted to brushless, for a couple years, and I run almost every day. I've been using Gens Ace 4000mah LiPos with no problems. But now they're coming out with higher-capacity cells, and when you mentioned that an 8000mah 2S LiPo wouldn't fit, I had to check it out. I didn't realize how much THICKER the new Lipos are getting with the increased capacity! My 4000mah hard case batts measure 24mm X 45mm X 137mm. Your 8000mAh measured 33 X 43 X 135mm. That's almost 10mm THICKER I looked at a Gens Ace 2S 10,000mAh (yeah, ten-thousand!) and that sucker is 48mm thick!! A TWO CELL as thick as a 4S!! Yikes! So it looks like the largest-capacity LiPo that'll fit the Evader batt tray is a 6500mAh 2S. Or you could not use the stock batt strap and do what you're doing and using a velcro strap.
IMHO, graphite parts are not worth the the money. They may be light, but they're also brittle. Probably why DTX no longer makes them.
Wheels - Stock DTX wheels aren't very good. The ones that come on the vader can and do crack. Their dish wheels are even worse. Get some RPM wheels, very tough. I also learned that re-foaming your tires help traction a lot. That foam can break down and your sidewalls loose stiffness and tire performance goes to hell. I made my own foam inserts, cut the inner bead with a sharp blade and reglued them after installing the new foams. Worked great, till I used up the rest of the tire. Nothing beats new rubber!! I'm running RPM wheels with ProLine Dirt Hawgz on the front and PL Gladiators on the rear. For a pin tire, those Gladiators last a long time.
I'm running a HobbyWing EZrun 4300kv motor and 35A ESC. Plenty of power and speed for me running in dirt.
Cheers!
08-01-2012, 02:44 PM
#452
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Great info EXT2Rob, I will be looking at tires/wheels soon - just good to have some extras on hand.
That 10kmAh is beast! I have the 8000s and they go for at least 2 hours - granted this is my first electric R/C so we're probably not doing the same things with the car.
You can adapt my battery tray cover that I posted a couple of days ago (page 17) and eliminate the side bends (skirts) and just make a modified battery tie down that way. You might have to add a shim under the ESC (like I did) to fit the battery in there. Is the EXT2 the same as the Brushless except for the brushless motor and ESC?
Did you get the RPM wheels directly from RPM and which ones did you buy (Talonz, Clawz or Slingshot)? I was a little stumped on the wheels because DuraTrax wheels don't have the hexnut thingy in their wheel hubs and and the rear wheels have that pin. Can we get some standards around here?
Thanks again and keep on truggying,
TSNF
That 10kmAh is beast! I have the 8000s and they go for at least 2 hours - granted this is my first electric R/C so we're probably not doing the same things with the car.
You can adapt my battery tray cover that I posted a couple of days ago (page 17) and eliminate the side bends (skirts) and just make a modified battery tie down that way. You might have to add a shim under the ESC (like I did) to fit the battery in there. Is the EXT2 the same as the Brushless except for the brushless motor and ESC?
Did you get the RPM wheels directly from RPM and which ones did you buy (Talonz, Clawz or Slingshot)? I was a little stumped on the wheels because DuraTrax wheels don't have the hexnut thingy in their wheel hubs and and the rear wheels have that pin. Can we get some standards around here?
Thanks again and keep on truggying,
TSNF
08-02-2012, 08:55 AM
#455
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
On the above: TRU THAT!!! DON'T MESS WITH IT! A $50 charger is cheaper than re-building your house!
TSNF: I got the RPM wheels at my LHS, but had to order them. They don't carry too much DTX stuff as I am one of the few Evader junkies around here I guess. I got the RPM Slingshot wheels, and the rears ARE the pin-drive type, not hex. The fronts take the ball bearings and mount right on the front axles. $10/pr. Nice Chrome too (though I painted mine Gold as it is a SUBIE-Vader. (See my garage) And yeah, the EXT2 is the same as the BL except for the addition of the BL system, a new front bumper and a new rear chassis plate w/wheelie bar. Oh, and the ALL METAL diff and new slipper and top gear. They went with an Associated-type slipper which necessitated a new top gear.
I keep stripping plastic diff gears so I got the all metal one, BIG improvement. The only issue with that diff is that the fluid they put in leaks out (if they put any in at all) and the screws tend to come out. You have to take it apart, clean it all out and re-assemble it using loc-tight on every screw, then leave it for a day for the loc-tight to really dry. And use Trak-Power Gear Grease in the diff and tranny. Good stuff, that. Theoretically you're supposed to be able to use different weight diff oil for tuning the diff action, and for racing, that is probably true, but since you have to use loc-tight on the screws, changing diff fluid very often would be problematic. If those diff case screws loosen, you'll chew up your spyder gears in the diff real quick.
TSNF: I got the RPM wheels at my LHS, but had to order them. They don't carry too much DTX stuff as I am one of the few Evader junkies around here I guess. I got the RPM Slingshot wheels, and the rears ARE the pin-drive type, not hex. The fronts take the ball bearings and mount right on the front axles. $10/pr. Nice Chrome too (though I painted mine Gold as it is a SUBIE-Vader. (See my garage) And yeah, the EXT2 is the same as the BL except for the addition of the BL system, a new front bumper and a new rear chassis plate w/wheelie bar. Oh, and the ALL METAL diff and new slipper and top gear. They went with an Associated-type slipper which necessitated a new top gear.
I keep stripping plastic diff gears so I got the all metal one, BIG improvement. The only issue with that diff is that the fluid they put in leaks out (if they put any in at all) and the screws tend to come out. You have to take it apart, clean it all out and re-assemble it using loc-tight on every screw, then leave it for a day for the loc-tight to really dry. And use Trak-Power Gear Grease in the diff and tranny. Good stuff, that. Theoretically you're supposed to be able to use different weight diff oil for tuning the diff action, and for racing, that is probably true, but since you have to use loc-tight on the screws, changing diff fluid very often would be problematic. If those diff case screws loosen, you'll chew up your spyder gears in the diff real quick.
08-02-2012, 01:18 PM
#456
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Thanks for the great advice EXT2Rob on the wheels and tires. I thought I was dealing with some sort of abomination. My LHS didn't carry Evader parts either so when I do order them (the wheels/tires) I will order them through the LHS, so they will get their cut, which is cool with me. They've helped me numerous times, especially with my T-Maxx and most recently with the Onyx 235 Charger (user error).
I'm looking at the RPM Products page now, http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product.../slingshot.htm, and on there it does not mention pin drive - I believe you, I'm just saying that...why not mention it either way, pin drive or hex drive, not a flippin word. Not all of us know all the features of all the vehicles out there.
Well thanks to you I know of one other wheel/tire combo that will fit my Evader BL - awesome.
I will check all the screws on my diff when I get home and make sure they are tight. The only problem I see with the plastic is that you have a very light touch when screwing anything on it back together - that plastic will strip in a heartbeat.
Finally, between you and me (ha,ha) can you point out any other weaknesses of the Evader? I already don't like the front bumper and may get a replacement. The one that you got for SUBIE-Vader was that a drop in replacement or did you have to Dremel? I have no problem with tools and stuff but if I can buy something that will be better than my Dremeled something, I'm all for it - especially if it functions better.
I really do appreciate all the great tips and and advice regarding the Evader.
Have fun,
TSNF
I'm looking at the RPM Products page now, http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product.../slingshot.htm, and on there it does not mention pin drive - I believe you, I'm just saying that...why not mention it either way, pin drive or hex drive, not a flippin word. Not all of us know all the features of all the vehicles out there.
Well thanks to you I know of one other wheel/tire combo that will fit my Evader BL - awesome.
I will check all the screws on my diff when I get home and make sure they are tight. The only problem I see with the plastic is that you have a very light touch when screwing anything on it back together - that plastic will strip in a heartbeat.
Finally, between you and me (ha,ha) can you point out any other weaknesses of the Evader? I already don't like the front bumper and may get a replacement. The one that you got for SUBIE-Vader was that a drop in replacement or did you have to Dremel? I have no problem with tools and stuff but if I can buy something that will be better than my Dremeled something, I'm all for it - especially if it functions better.
I really do appreciate all the great tips and and advice regarding the Evader.
Have fun,
TSNF
08-04-2012, 03:50 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I'm looking at a DX3c because I have a $10 discount from HH 
. Maybe later today or this week. I'll prob. sell my TTX200 if anyone's interested.
. Maybe later today or this week. I'll prob. sell my TTX200 if anyone's interested.
08-05-2012, 06:12 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
PM me for more info on the TX, if you are interested. I may not end up selling for a few months b/c I cannot afford a new Tx yet, as well as I pinpointed the range problem - dead tx batteries..
Where would I get a 75 or 72T spur? Do the Robinson Racing Kevlar spurs fit the Evader?
Where would I get a 75 or 72T spur? Do the Robinson Racing Kevlar spurs fit the Evader?
08-05-2012, 09:32 AM
#464
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Robinson does make spurs that fit the Evader, by buddy uses one, but it's a stock size. I'm sure there are several that work. Depends on what slipper arrangement you're using.
TNSF: I should have given you the RPM part number...it's #81863 for the REAR wheels...I don't have the front number handy. But they are the Slingshot wheels that fit the Losi XXT, NXT, XXXT. I like the Proline Gladiators, as they seem to last quite a while and provide really good traction on dirt. I saved my worn-out ones for grass running. Kind of odd RPM doesn't specify pin/hex on their own website.
How's a guy supposed to know? Bumpers: I used an RPM bumper on my cars, it was what was available at the LHS. Not quite a "drop-in" replacement, I had to drill holes to match it up to the car. But you don't like the bumper that comes on the BL Evader? I thought it was a pretty good design. It actually might've prevented front-end damage to my Subie body. My RPM bumper sits behind the body shell (to protect the chassis), consequently, the front fascia has all but disappeared. If I'd had the DTX bumper, which would have extended out in front of the body, it probably would have prevented a lot of that.
As for other "weak points" on the Evader, in my experience, I found that I was breaking drive pins. The stock roller pins that go in the rear axles and drive the rear wheels would fail on me after only a few battery packs. The guy at the LHS suggested I get some "music wire" and cut pieces to size. This is just thin metal rod, 0.062in thickness, stock #504. Just a couple bucks for three 30in lengths, enough to keep you in drive pins for LIFE. Similarly, there are drive pins in the DIFF that hold the drive cups in place and that connects them to the bevel gears inside the diff. I kept breaking those too. Again, music wire, at a smaller 0.047in,(stock #502) fixed that problem. The stuff is made by K&S Precision Metals Chicago Illinois.
As for a good transmitter, Fly Sky makes two that work great and don't cost much. How's $40 for a 2.4ghz system with 10 model memory, LCD screen, end-point adjustments, anti-lock braking, etc.? Or the real budget one for $20 for just one car? Ihave that one and works great, my buddy has the LCD model and loves it.
Hope that helps!
Rob
TNSF: I should have given you the RPM part number...it's #81863 for the REAR wheels...I don't have the front number handy. But they are the Slingshot wheels that fit the Losi XXT, NXT, XXXT. I like the Proline Gladiators, as they seem to last quite a while and provide really good traction on dirt. I saved my worn-out ones for grass running. Kind of odd RPM doesn't specify pin/hex on their own website.
How's a guy supposed to know? Bumpers: I used an RPM bumper on my cars, it was what was available at the LHS. Not quite a "drop-in" replacement, I had to drill holes to match it up to the car. But you don't like the bumper that comes on the BL Evader? I thought it was a pretty good design. It actually might've prevented front-end damage to my Subie body. My RPM bumper sits behind the body shell (to protect the chassis), consequently, the front fascia has all but disappeared. If I'd had the DTX bumper, which would have extended out in front of the body, it probably would have prevented a lot of that.As for other "weak points" on the Evader, in my experience, I found that I was breaking drive pins. The stock roller pins that go in the rear axles and drive the rear wheels would fail on me after only a few battery packs. The guy at the LHS suggested I get some "music wire" and cut pieces to size. This is just thin metal rod, 0.062in thickness, stock #504. Just a couple bucks for three 30in lengths, enough to keep you in drive pins for LIFE. Similarly, there are drive pins in the DIFF that hold the drive cups in place and that connects them to the bevel gears inside the diff. I kept breaking those too. Again, music wire, at a smaller 0.047in,(stock #502) fixed that problem. The stuff is made by K&S Precision Metals Chicago Illinois.
As for a good transmitter, Fly Sky makes two that work great and don't cost much. How's $40 for a 2.4ghz system with 10 model memory, LCD screen, end-point adjustments, anti-lock braking, etc.? Or the real budget one for $20 for just one car? Ihave that one and works great, my buddy has the LCD model and loves it.
Hope that helps!
Rob
08-05-2012, 01:38 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Just scored an Evader ext roller today with a Xl-5 esc. I gave the ext to my son with the st ( we did a trade) I installed his esc and radio from the st and a new stinger motor. It scoots pretty good for him. So my project now is the st. The trans is apart I'm waiting on the 3/32 diff balls. I'm debating on using the xl-5 esc in the st or the Novak Explorer II esc I have. I've been thinking about going with the Trinity SpeedGems 17T motor. I also have another possible project a t-maxx which doesn't run anymore and converting it to electric. Seen a guy online do it pretty cheap using the xl-5 esc. But that's a whole other project. Any gear ratio set ups if I go with the 17t? Just thought I would ask. I'm sure stock is fine. Right now we are just running ni-cd 1800mah packs I plan on getting higher mah ni-mh packs in the future and a charger. My Piranha only charges ni-cds up to 2000 mah.
08-05-2012, 06:51 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I think for a 17T motor,... Something along the lines of 18/90 (For Acceleration) or 22/86 (For Speed). It's pretty much based on the terrian. What's your terrian?
08-05-2012, 09:57 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I compared and extra ext chassis with the st chassis (both just the chassis no othher pieces attached)and the ext is lighter. I did a comparison the st chassis bare nothing at all then the ext chassis with the steering servo installed and they felt about the same to me. Even with the trucks fully assembled you can feel the difference. My son actually pointed it out to me. The st I has the metal rear plate and the rear graghite arms and hubs and it all the original stiffer plastic. I did change out the original st chassis for the ext one. I figured why not?
08-06-2012, 03:54 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: BurningEvader1458
It's pretty much based on the terrian. What's your terrian?
It's pretty much based on the terrian. What's your terrian?
08-06-2012, 07:35 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I gotta stupid question. How do I start a thread. I would like to start a few, but I can't find anything on how to start one.
08-06-2012, 10:17 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: BurningEvader1458
I gotta stupid question. How do I start a thread. I would like to start a few, but I can't find anything on how to start one.
I gotta stupid question. How do I start a thread. I would like to start a few, but I can't find anything on how to start one.
08-06-2012, 10:53 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Wonderful information EXT2Rob, I really do appreciate it, the part numbers especially - I like those wheels and tires. Great idea for the drive pins.
I had to order some parts today for the Brushless. My son (15 years old) hit a curb or something and ripped a front shock apart yesterday. I ordered as many front end parts as I could with some spares (from Tower Hobbies) and shipped them to my vacation destination. (At least he crashed it where I could determine the parts needed and then have the parts shipped there for my arrival - thank God for little blessings).
Actually the front bumper is not bad when I think about it. Sorry to hear about the Subaru body not being protected.
Do you think there is any benefit to buying any of the aluminum upgrades available for the Evader? Has anyone done that and can you provide feedback? I realize that the all plastic nature of the Evader is what makes it so light and flexible (energy absorbant?) and that if you do replace a part with aluminum that this part will now probably transfer all the energy to another, different part, and will most likely cause more damage than if the part was plastic. (My son and I are flattening out our learning curve on the Evader so it will be less of an issue as time goes on, I hope...)
I ordered a plastic front bulkhead (51) with my order because I think (after inspection) that once you bash the front end in good a couple of times that the screws on the Front Brace (52) strip out the holes in the bulkhead and therefore does not provide rigidity to the front end. I actually ordered two bulk heads - It is a Stress Tech Guarantee part so I will send that back after I get it replaced and not have the car out of commission for a week or so. Crashing into soil is much better than crashing into something that does not compress, like a curb or fence post, in my experience.
I am very happy with the Evader and have no regrets about the investment costs for this much fun. I will have my T-Maxx (sorry for cussing) with me on vacation also and this and the Evader will provide hours of good family fun. FWIW, my Dad is a retired mechanic and he is amazed at the power these electric and nitro motors put out. He's got a couple of old nitro motors somewhere and I'll have to convince him to break them out. I would love to get them running for him.
Keep that great info coming guys (any ladies out there?) we all appreciate the wisdom and the feedback - I know I do!
Sincerely,
TSNF
I had to order some parts today for the Brushless. My son (15 years old) hit a curb or something and ripped a front shock apart yesterday. I ordered as many front end parts as I could with some spares (from Tower Hobbies) and shipped them to my vacation destination. (At least he crashed it where I could determine the parts needed and then have the parts shipped there for my arrival - thank God for little blessings).
Actually the front bumper is not bad when I think about it. Sorry to hear about the Subaru body not being protected.
Do you think there is any benefit to buying any of the aluminum upgrades available for the Evader? Has anyone done that and can you provide feedback? I realize that the all plastic nature of the Evader is what makes it so light and flexible (energy absorbant?) and that if you do replace a part with aluminum that this part will now probably transfer all the energy to another, different part, and will most likely cause more damage than if the part was plastic. (My son and I are flattening out our learning curve on the Evader so it will be less of an issue as time goes on, I hope...)
I ordered a plastic front bulkhead (51) with my order because I think (after inspection) that once you bash the front end in good a couple of times that the screws on the Front Brace (52) strip out the holes in the bulkhead and therefore does not provide rigidity to the front end. I actually ordered two bulk heads - It is a Stress Tech Guarantee part so I will send that back after I get it replaced and not have the car out of commission for a week or so. Crashing into soil is much better than crashing into something that does not compress, like a curb or fence post, in my experience.
I am very happy with the Evader and have no regrets about the investment costs for this much fun. I will have my T-Maxx (sorry for cussing) with me on vacation also and this and the Evader will provide hours of good family fun. FWIW, my Dad is a retired mechanic and he is amazed at the power these electric and nitro motors put out. He's got a couple of old nitro motors somewhere and I'll have to convince him to break them out. I would love to get them running for him.
Keep that great info coming guys (any ladies out there?) we all appreciate the wisdom and the feedback - I know I do!
Sincerely,
TSNF