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  1. #476

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Hello everybody, this is my first forum i have ever taken part in.  I got my first Evader St a little over a year ago, made it brushless. My favorite car to tear up the yard and do burn outs in the street.


  2. #477
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Welcome to the longest Evader thread in history!  (I think)  And the boards, in general.  Good place to learn about the hobby, and the Evader. 
    Just a schmoe....

  3. #478
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.


    ORIGINAL: TSNF

    Wonderful information EXT2Rob, I really do appreciate it, the part numbers especially - I like those wheels and tires. Great idea for the drive pins.

    I had to order some parts today for the Brushless. My son (15 years old) hit a curb or something and ripped a front shock apart yesterday.
    The stock plastic shocks unscrew at both ends, and the end with the shock shaft can become loose, and when that happens and it takes a hard hit, the threads break off and the shock is now junk. Loc-tite those babies!

    Actually the front bumper is not bad when I think about it. Sorry to hear about the Subaru body not being protected.

    Do you think there is any benefit to buying any of the aluminum upgrades available for the Evader? Has anyone done that and can you provide feedback? I realize that the all plastic nature of the Evader is what makes it so light and flexible (energy absorbant?) and that if you do replace a part with aluminum that this part will now probably transfer all the energy to another, different part, and will most likely cause more damage than if the part was plastic. (My son and I are flattening out our learning curve on the Evader so it will be less of an issue as time goes on, I hope...)
    The only aluminum parts Igot were the shocks (see above comment) and the motor plate. The motor plate ($25!!) is nice because it helps dissapate heat from the motor and is strong. But Igot it as a gift (thanks Warren!!) and it's kind of a pricey part. The shocks.....well, Ihaven't broken anything on them except the occasional rod-end. The AL shocks are a different design...no bladder-cap, and you fill them by removing the shock-shaft cap that screws into the shock body. The issue there is, that cap is an assembleage of pieces, and one of the pieces tends to come un-snapped and your shock starts to leak. Idoubt if a cap already soaked in silicon oil can be cleaned enough to be glued properly. Iget a re-build kit and asseble the cap and I GLUEON the last piece. That seems to work pretty well, but they still can come apart again. Iput up with it.

    I ordered a plastic front bulkhead (51) with my order because I think (after inspection) that once you bash the front end in good a couple of times that the screws on the Front Brace (52) strip out the holes in the bulkhead and therefore does not provide rigidity to the front end. I actually ordered two bulk heads - It is a Stress Tech Guarantee part so I will send that back after I get it replaced and not have the car out of commission for a week or so. Crashing into soil is much better than crashing into something that does not compress, like a curb or fence post, in my experience.
    Ohhh yeah...been there! You might also want to order a spare chassis. In my experience that hinged connection between the chassis and bulkhead will break one or more hinge-loops then finally break altogether. But, since we started wrapping trees with foam and orange cones, no more breakage from tree impacts. Cones will actually direct the forces upward and save you damage. providing of course they are in the right place at the right time!

    I am very happy with the Evader and have no regrets about the investment costs for this much fun. I will have my T-Maxx (sorry for cussing) with me on vacation also and this and the Evader will provide hours of good family fun. FWIW, my Dad is a retired mechanic and he is amazed at the power these electric and nitro motors put out. He's got a couple of old nitro motors somewhere and I'll have to convince him to break them out. I would love to get them running for him.

    Keep that great info coming guys (any ladies out there?) we all appreciate the wisdom and the feedback - I know I do!

    Sincerely,
    TSNF
    That;s the good thing about the Evader, probably its main selling point: cheap entry price, and the stress-tech guarantee. But, Do what my bud did, save up all the stress-tech parts you break, and send them in just before your year runs out. Buy your own replacements. They take FOREVER to replace the warranty parts. (low priority) That way, you'll have spares, and your car won't be down for months.

    RC has come a long way. Brushless motor systems and high-tech batteries give these little models amazing power and speed. And with very little maintenence when compared to Dad's old nitro cars. Unless one feels the need for engine noise, the smell of nitro fuel, and the angst that comes from trying to keep them running right, who needs nitro? (Well, ok, probably the guys running 1/5-scale SC 4x4s) Brushless can give you all the power you need and more. Maybe one day I'll get a Losi, or Associated, or an Ofna, and I'll be singing their praises and dissing ol' DTX, but the Evader got MEhooked, ANDmy buddy, and the hobby NEEDS cars like that, one that's inexpensive enough to hook a newb but tough enough to learn and grow with and make that newb a dedicated RC fan. Am Iright? or am Iright?

    Just a schmoe....

  4. #479
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.


    ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob


    ORIGINAL: TSNF

    Wonderful information EXT2Rob, I really do appreciate it, the part numbers especially - I like those wheels and tires. Great idea for the drive pins.

    I had to order some parts today for the Brushless. My son (15 years old) hit a curb or something and ripped a front shock apart yesterday.
    The stock plastic shocks unscrew at both ends, and the end with the shock shaft can become loose, and when that happens and it takes a hard hit, the threads break off and the shock is now junk.Β* Loc-tite those babies!

    Actually the front bumper is not bad when I think about it. Sorry to hear about the Subaru body not being protected.

    Do you think there is any benefit to buying any of the aluminum upgrades available for the Evader? Has anyone done that and can you provide feedback? I realize that the all plastic nature of the Evader is what makes it so light and flexible (energy absorbant?) and that if you do replace a part with aluminum that this part will now probably transfer all the energy to another, different part, and will most likely cause more damage than if the part was plastic. (My son and I are flattening out our learning curve on the Evader so it will be less of an issue as time goes on, I hope...)
    The only aluminum parts IΒ*got were the shocks (see above comment) and the motor plate. The motor plate ($25!!) is nice because it helps dissapate heat from the motor and is strong. But IΒ*got it as a gift (thanks Warren!!) and it's kind of a pricey part.Β* The shocks.....well, IΒ*haven't broken anything on them except the occasional rod-end.Β* The AL shocks are a different design...no bladder-cap, and you fill them by removing the shock-shaft cap that screws into the shock body.Β* The issue there is, that cap is an assembleage of pieces, and one of the pieces tends to come un-snapped and your shock starts to leak.Β* IΒ*doubt if a cap already soaked in silicon oil can be cleaned enough to be glued properly. IΒ*get a re-build kit and asseble the cap and I GLUEΒ*ON the last piece.Β* That seems to work pretty well, but they still can come apart again. IΒ*put up with it.

    I ordered a plastic front bulkhead (51) with my order because I think (after inspection) that once you bash the front end in good a couple of times that the screws on the Front Brace (52) strip out the holes in the bulkhead and therefore does not provide rigidity to the front end. I actually ordered two bulk heads - It is a Stress Tech Guarantee part so I will send that back after I get it replaced and not have the car out of commission for a week or so. Crashing into soil is much better than crashing into something that does not compress, like a curb or fence post, in my experience.
    Ohhh yeah...been there! You might also want to order a spare chassis. In my experience that hinged connection between the chassis and bulkhead will break one or more hinge-loops then finally break altogether. But, since we started wrapping trees with foam and orange cones, no more breakage from tree impacts. Cones will actually direct the forces upward and save you damage. providing of course they are in the right place at the right time!Β*

    I am very happy with the Evader and have no regrets about the investment costs for this much fun. I will have my T-Maxx (sorry for cussing) with me on vacation also and this and the Evader will provide hours of good family fun. FWIW, my Dad is a retired mechanic and he is amazed at the power these electric and nitro motors put out. He's got a couple of old nitro motors somewhere and I'll have to convince him to break them out. I would love to get them running for him.

    Keep that great info coming guys (any ladies out there?) we all appreciate the wisdom and the feedback - I know I do!

    Sincerely,
    TSNF
    That;s the good thing about the Evader, probably its main selling point: cheap entry price, and the stress-tech guarantee. But, Do what my bud did, save up all the stress-tech parts you break, and send them in just before your year runs out. Buy your own replacements. They take FORΒ*EVER to replace the warranty parts. (low priority)Β*Β* That way, you'll have spares, and your car won't be down for months.

    RC has come a long way. Brushless motor systems and high-tech batteries give these little models amazing power and speed. And with very little maintenence when compared to Dad's old nitro cars.Β* Unless one feels the need for engine noise, the smell of nitro fuel, and the angst that comes from trying to keep them running right,Β* who needs nitro?Β* (Well, ok, probably the guys running 1/5-scale SC 4x4s)Β* Brushless can give you all the power you need and more.Β* Maybe one day I'll get a Losi, or Associated, or an Ofna, and I'll be singing their praises and dissing ol' DTX, but the Evader got MEΒ*hooked, ANDΒ*my buddy, and the hobby NEEDS cars like that, one that's inexpensive enough to hook a newb but tough enough to learn and grow with and make that newb a dedicated RC fan.Β* Am IΒ*right? or am IΒ*right?

    nope, gasoline powered. nitro has it's ups and downs, just like electric. you never hear of nitros stripping spurs or melting hexes because they have an actual clutch. you also nearly never hear of a nitro doing a standing backflip (could be a pro, could be a con). you never struggle getting an electric to start (but unplugging them can be a pain) but then there is no reward. hearing that engine rev after an hour in the sun yanking on that pull started really is satisfying.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  5. #480
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    I've never owned a Nitro or Gas powered. Are they good trucks? Should I invest in one or stay electric?
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  6. #481

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    My uncle owns a nitro Evader. It is pretty fast but the brushless is much quicker and you dont have to yank on the thing for an hour for it to go

  7. #482
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    they are just as good, if not better, than their electric counterparts in most cases. the only reason electric is more popular is because it's easier. you have never truely experienced the hobby until you have driven a nitro. whether you like it or not is personal preference but there is nothing like it. sure, electric holds the 2 main speed records (outright fastest and fastest production) but nitro held the fastest production record until the xo1 and technically, still does (out of the box it only does 55 or 60, you need an apple device to get the other 40-odd mph). that nitro does 95mph, so it is barely even beat. plus, how often will you even pass 50? a speed nitros do handily. i keep debating whether my next will be nitro or electric. word of advise, get new, buying a used nitro as a first is a bad idea. if you dont want to deal with a pull starter, you can always get a bump box.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  8. #483

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.


    ORIGINAL: TSNF

    Do you think there is any benefit to buying any of the aluminum upgrades available for the Evader? Has anyone done that and can you provide feedback? I realize that the all plastic nature of the Evader is what makes it so light and flexible (energy absorbant?) and that if you do replace a part with aluminum that this part will now probably transfer all the energy to another, different part, and will most likely cause more damage than if the part was plastic. (My son and I are flattening out our learning curve on the Evader so it will be less of an issue as time goes on, I hope...)


    I have the aluminum knuckle arms, they seem to be holding up strong and not causing to much extra stress elsewhere. I also wanted to get the aluminum front shocktower to weigh down the front of the car but at $55 I could not force myself to get it.

  9. #484

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Welcome jclay413, glad to have you here.

    I'm new to electric/brushless R/C as well and I love it! I'm thinking about getting a 1/18 or something real small for the winter time so I can terrorize my kids.

    Have fun and contribute or just read, every little bit helps.

    All the best,
    TSNF

  10. #485

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Thanks EXT2Rob, jclay413, BurningEvader1458 and everyone else.

    DuraTrax is a great entry level car and for those of us without the ambition of racing and stuff like that (just bashing, having a little fun) the Evader and cars like it are a fantastic way to get involved.

    I've had my T-Maxx since (oh God) 2004 and that kit cost me probably just around $500 and it still runs. I'll have to tune it when I go on vacation but it has been pretty easy to own. I even changed out the spur gear with no problem - got to clean it a bit more than the normal while the engine was out too. The nitro "noise" does draw a crowd usually, in my area. So if you're trying to be stealthy with a nitro, good luck. The Traxxas T-Maxx in my opinion has been worth the money I paid for it and my son said he can't wait to get his hands on it...

    I tried to buy a spare chassis but they didn't have one or I just didn't see it. I agree that that hinged connection at the front of the car is a weak point - I haven't broken anything there, yet. The shock got busted at the bottom connector and it looks like it leaked oil. I got a set for the front and a rebuild kit. I wanted to get the aluminum set but they were out. I am saving up all my broken parts and sending them into DuraTrax at the same time. I think the DuraTrax "helpdesk" is useless, in my opinion.

    And finally, to EXT2Rob, you are right.

    Have fun,
    TSNF

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    I have like three spare chassis for the Evader (Ebay glitched on my phone and decided to confirm and pay for 3 instead of 1). Send me a message if you really need one.

  12. #487

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.


    ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob

    That;s the good thing about the Evader, probably its main selling point: cheap entry price, and the stress-tech guarantee. But, Do what my bud did, save up all the stress-tech parts you break, and send them in just before your year runs out. Buy your own replacements. They take FOREVER to replace the warranty parts. (low priority) That way, you'll have spares, and your car won't be down for months.

    RC has come a long way. Brushless motor systems and high-tech batteries give these little models amazing power and speed. And with very little maintenence when compared to Dad's old nitro cars. Unless one feels the need for engine noise, the smell of nitro fuel, and the angst that comes from trying to keep them running right, who needs nitro? (Well, ok, probably the guys running 1/5-scale SC 4x4s) Brushless can give you all the power you need and more. Maybe one day I'll get a Losi, or Associated, or an Ofna, and I'll be singing their praises and dissing ol' DTX, but the Evader got MEhooked, ANDmy buddy, and the hobby NEEDS cars like that, one that's inexpensive enough to hook a newb but tough enough to learn and grow with and make that newb a dedicated RC fan. Am Iright? or am Iright?

    www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/106258/

    castlecreations.com/products/mamba_xl2.html

    To name a few. People convert their Baja 5B and 5SC to Mamba XL because it is more powerful, cheaper, and quiter to operate.

    I will remain electric.

  13. #488
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Yeah, but nitro gives you the reward. After you pull on the starter for an hour and it finally starts, you feel a feeling of achievement. I'm thinking of going nitro, but not sure. Anybody who knows nitro, would you recommend it over electric?
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  14. #489
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    i would, and i wouldnt. they are just too equal after everything is said and done. there is the satisfaction of getting the damn thing going, but the frustration when it refuses. there is the sense of danger knowing it could take off on its own at any time (i've had it happens several times), but that also can make you stress out. with electric, everything is too dang easy. you want to wheelie just by looking at it? throw in a 3s. you want to do 100 mph? put a 9000 kv motor in there. you want 1 hour runs without stopping for anything? get a 10000mah battery. just too easy. it's worth while to try. a lot of people said electric was just a toy, then they tried a bl/lipo setup and converted all that could be converted. some said nitro was too loud and complicated, after trying one they saved up and bought a good one. i may get a kyosho madforce kruiser for myself for christmas. either that or a bolt action .22.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  15. #490
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Why are my Evader shocks leaking? The squeak towards the bottom out. I just replaced the oil. Does it not have enough?
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    cumquat, I know exactly what you mean about the nitro, my T-Maxx for example. It's a feeling of achievement, a badge of manliness to get the damn thing running sometimes. The T-Maxx comes with EZ Start so there is no pulling involved but there is the tuning aspect that will sometimes drive you mad. When you get it clicking just right though, it's a sweet sound and the smell of nitro exhaust...intoxicating.

    The electrics are just easier (at least the engine/motor part) to run. I've got an 8000mAh LiPo in mine and it goes forever and if I want to run some more, put in the other 8000mAh LiPo!

    I say get one, if you can afford and get it out of your system - you will love it or hate it. I couldn't recommend anything for you BurningEvader1458, I just don't have that much experience with nitro vehicles. Check out the Buy/Sell section on this website, I'm sure you can find something reasonably priced. Or, save up and get something new. I got a nitro for my first vehicle because my brother had one and he wouldn't shut up about his... Read up on it first then make your decision.

    Have fun,
    TSNF

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    BurningEvader1458, I can't speak to why your shocks are leaking. Maybe the seal is shot or maybe the cap is loose. EXT2Rob seems to have experience with the shocks so hopefully he will have an answer for you.

    Speaking of shocks, my parts shipped today (with my new front shocks) should be arriving on the 10th, yay.

  18. #493
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.


    ORIGINAL: TSNF

    cumquat, I know exactly what you mean about the nitro, my T-Maxx for example. It's a feeling of achievement, a badge of manliness to get the damn thing running sometimes. The T-Maxx comes with EZ Start so there is no pulling involved but there is the tuning aspect that will sometimes drive you mad. When you get it clicking just right though, it's a sweet sound and the smell of nitro exhaust...intoxicating.

    The electrics are just easier (at least the engine/motor part) to run. I've got an 8000mAh LiPo in mine and it goes forever and if I want to run some more, put in the other 8000mAh LiPo!

    I say get one, if you can afford and get it out of your system - you will love it or hate it. I couldn't recommend anything for you BurningEvader1458, I just don't have that much experience with nitro vehicles. Check out the Buy/Sell section on this website, I'm sure you can find something reasonably priced. Or, save up and get something new. I got a nitro for my first vehicle because my brother had one and he wouldn't shut up about his... Read up on it first then make your decision.

    Have fun,
    TSNF
    i had a nitro sport but i kept forgetting to charge the starter battery so i just bought a pull starter. that's one of the reasons i'm also considering a buggy. i had one as my first and hated the pull starter so i bought a roto starter and cordless drill. if i were to get a buggy, i'd get a starter box
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  19. #494
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.



    I changed the oil in my shocks to 35 wieght in both front and back. The aren't leaking anymore. I think the first time I didn't have the caps tight. They work great and when filling them, I made sure there was no air bubbles.
    Just sharin' the love!

    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  20. #495
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Yeah, I found the stock 20wt shock fluid to be too flaccid and went with 35wt as well. much better damping.
    The stock shocks will leak if that bottom cap isn't tight.  Or you could have some damaged o-rings. I think #60 o-rings from the hardware store will fit.  Something else my bud turned me on to:  shock socks from www.badhorsie.com  real cheap and they help keep your shock shafts clean.  Available in many sizes and colors.
    Just a schmoe....

  21. #496
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Yeah. Thanks. I just rebuilt my shocks with new o-rings and shafts and all. That bad horsie cover shock things look good. I might buy some.
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  22. #497
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.


    ORIGINAL: BurningEvader1458

    I've never owned a Nitro or Gas powered. Are they good trucks? Should I invest in one or stay electric?
    Stay electric, or you'll REALLY incur the Wrath of Mom!!!

    Just a schmoe....

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    HAHAHA TRUE

  24. #499
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    lol
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    or worse, big sis mine always yelled at me when ever i drove near an open window
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!


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