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  1. #76

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Hey guys! It's been a long time! I'm finally out for my semester so I'll have some time to post on my break. Lug, good to see you still around.
    Good old faithful T.E.C. surviving to see a part 2. I love it!

    Most recent purchase was a Savage Flux. Can't wait to get that thing out to rip. I still got patch my evader up. The shocks I bought for the thing are awesome, but are also the thing keeping me from running the beast my evader is. The shocks have little caps to hold in the oil...and one of them fell out. So I gotta mod something in there to fix it. Stupid little to problem to keep me from running my car that started it all.

    Nice to see the thread is still kicking it. Here's to another 800 pages. Have a good night all.

    -Mike
    Rides: Evader ST, Evader BX, Savage 25, XXX-NT, Mini-T, Micro-T, RS2 Pro, Slash 4x4
    Wishlist: Savage Flux, Hellfire

  2. #77
    cummins driver's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Ok guys, tower hobbies has ALL the brushless evader driveline parts available as of last night!

    For those wanting to run an evader with a strong brushless setup, you really want these gears to take care of the transmission issues [8D]
    - Savage - MGT Pulling Truck - Losi LST2 - Brushless Blitz - RC10GT (getting a 2.5) - Brushless T4 - Sportwerks Mayhem Pro

  3. #78
    cummins driver's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.


    ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler

    CumminsDriver -Β*Got a question to you and whomever else may want to chime in.

    I've worked most, if not all problemsΒ*out on my EXT (2008 model)

    Tranny is bullet proof, I grafted an RC10B4 tranny into itΒ*. . . aluminum shocks, RPM wheels, proline tires, bearing, hi torque servo, brushless, lipo etc etcΒ*. .Β* you get the pic . . . I've spent a lot of time and a few dollars on this truck.

    It has not broken on me for a while now, and it goes like a scalded cat. It's also my first hobby grade RC.

    I believe in one of your posts, you said you got an RC104.1. I have seen the rollers on Ebay. Brand new $138. I am intrigued. How much better is this truck REALLY than an EXT?Β*Β*

    I'm not unhappy with the EXT. The RC10 looks easier to work on (steering), looks more sexy. My guess is the shocks are better than what IΒ*have . .

    Thoughts?
    Thanks
    NTR


    Sorry for the slow reply. I was subscribed to this thread and it never showed a new post. Oh well. haha

    Anyways. I have been able to put some time on the t4 now with the same brushless system my evader had in it. As far as driving them, they both feel very similar. The T4 is nicer to look at Mine came with a few upgrades and its pretty nice. I really like that the transmission case is a much nicer plastic and has hex bolts holding it together, and is smooth as glass (as you know). The rest of the truck also has hex hardware which is nice. I havent broken anything on either truck as far as arms or anything. The evader seems similarily durable after the longer ball stud mod.

    These are some of the main gripes i have with the evader:
    Transmission - Obviously this is/was the downfall with running brushless
    Dogbones- While they work fine, the T4/4.1 has solid steel pins in the dogbones instead of spring pins, which should last much longer
    Rear Axles- The pin hole is too close to the hub and you cant tighten the wheels as good as you can on the t4

    Im torn on wether to keep my evader or not. I got a really good deal on my t4 so im not selling it. But the evader will cost me $35 or so for the tranny upgrades and isnt as "nice" of a truck still in that the plastic quality(at least on the tranny case) isnt as good, the hardware isnt as nice, and the dogbones and axles arent as good of a design. I really do like the truck overall though, unfortnately if you are going to do some mods like aluminum shocks, tranny upgrades, etc, the T4 comes out to be the better deal, especially since it resales higher and is a more race bred truck with better aftermarket.

    Both trucks can be equally as good for bashing. You just have to decide which one you want to spend your money on
    - Savage - MGT Pulling Truck - Losi LST2 - Brushless Blitz - RC10GT (getting a 2.5) - Brushless T4 - Sportwerks Mayhem Pro

  4. #79

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    i've seen that tower has a "complete brushless evader transmission" for i believe 17.99. is this all that is needed to upgrade so that my evader will handle my brushless system. i've been down a couple months because i striped a gear in the trans.
    Stampede XL-5 with brushless 4000kv and 3s lipo
    Evader EXT2
    Savage xs flux
    17.5 carpet oval truck

  5. #80
    rclugnut10's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURC&P=7

    they have this which is the only plastic gear left in the evader tranny... thats just the differential, i'm looking to get the whole tranny idk i'm just gunna buy a full evader BL and call it good... or what yet...

    the lug
    Savage Flux 2350 Evader ST Pro EXT \'\'Detta ST E Choas, HPI E Firestrom Novus CP

  6. #81
    cummins driver's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    The problem is that even though the top shaft is metal it is a bad material. Mine has worn the teeth down thin twice now. I wish the $9 diff gear was all that was really needed...
    - Savage - MGT Pulling Truck - Losi LST2 - Brushless Blitz - RC10GT (getting a 2.5) - Brushless T4 - Sportwerks Mayhem Pro

  7. #82
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Maybe i missed above but why wouldnt just the metal diff gear work? i ordered the DTXC7454 complete diff but only because i didnt want to us my used spider gears inside the new metal one, i also purchased the rear chassis plate, motorguard and wheelie bar, im hoping i can get everything to fit but the parts all apprear to be the same. You can get just the diff gear case for like 8.99 i think and use your original spiders inside it (my guess anyhow we'll soon see) My parts will be here tuesday so im psyced!
    JRockZ

  8. #83
    cummins driver's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    The metal diff gear alone will work just fine. I heard that there are some washers you have to use behind the spiders when installing them into the metal diff gear so remember that.

    What i was getting at is that the old style top shaft is made of a metal that wears out way too fast. I have worn out 2 of them, both in about 5 hours or so of use. So, that is why i said the new top shaft is needed if you really want to bulletproof the transmission. The new top shaft is supposedly a black oxide hardened steel that is supposed to be better than the current topshaft.
    - Savage - MGT Pulling Truck - Losi LST2 - Brushless Blitz - RC10GT (getting a 2.5) - Brushless T4 - Sportwerks Mayhem Pro

  9. #84
    cumquat's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    actually, i believe that a good greasing would drastically cut down on wear on the top gear. the ext/2 gearbox comes dry so a light grease might help.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  10. #85
    cummins driver's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Already tried that and it made no difference. It was worn out in almost the exact same amount of time. I was hoping the grease would help, but it didnt do it for me.
    - Savage - MGT Pulling Truck - Losi LST2 - Brushless Blitz - RC10GT (getting a 2.5) - Brushless T4 - Sportwerks Mayhem Pro

  11. #86
    cumquat's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    huh... weird.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  12. #87
    JRockZ's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.


    ORIGINAL: cummins driver
    The metal diff gear alone will work just fine. I heard that there are some washers you have to use behind the spiders when installing them into the metal diff gear so remember that.
    Ahhh Ah ha!! That is correct cummins driver,,, take a looksie at the brushless evader manual page 14 This gear includes alot of small shims as well!! Hmmm i hope the trans case is the same as the original evader and is not wider, this new diff gear looks like it maybe wider as it has more parts in it. Also this side note indicates that it is now a fluid filled diff!! Sweet!!

    Assemble one half of the diff fi rst. Next,

    install the internal gears with shims. Fill the

    differential with 20,000 oil or higher so it is



    3/4 full. Install the other side.

    JRockZ

  13. #88

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Cummins Driver,

    Thanks for the reponse.I determined a while back that I've probably spent too much money on this thing. If Iknew then what I know now I would have started with a 4.1 roller and gonefrom there. But I guess I needed something to do!

    It's been a lot of fun though . . . .

    I've been wondering if those 4,1 bones would fit the vader.

    Also,after months of running, thetranny that Ibought off of Ebay finally needs a rebuild. Not like blown gears. Just the diff part sounds kind of gritty. I may just buy another tranny off of ebay instead of rebuilding. Numbers are close.

    NTR



    ORIGINAL: cummins driver


    ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler

    CumminsDriver -Got a question to you and whomever else may want to chime in.

    I've worked most, if not all problemsout on my EXT (2008 model)

    Tranny is bullet proof, I grafted an RC10B4 tranny into it. . . aluminum shocks, RPM wheels, proline tires, bearing, hi torque servo, brushless, lipo etc etc. . you get the pic . . . I've spent a lot of time and a few dollars on this truck.

    It has not broken on me for a while now, and it goes like a scalded cat. It's also my first hobby grade RC.

    I believe in one of your posts, you said you got an RC104.1. I have seen the rollers on Ebay. Brand new $138. I am intrigued. How much better is this truck REALLY than an EXT?

    I'm not unhappy with the EXT. The RC10 looks easier to work on (steering), looks more sexy. My guess is the shocks are better than what Ihave . .

    Thoughts?
    Thanks
    NTR


    Sorry for the slow reply. I was subscribed to this thread and it never showed a new post. Oh well. haha

    Anyways. I have been able to put some time on the t4 now with the same brushless system my evader had in it. As far as driving them, they both feel very similar. The T4 is nicer to look at Mine came with a few upgrades and its pretty nice. I really like that the transmission case is a much nicer plastic and has hex bolts holding it together, and is smooth as glass (as you know). The rest of the truck also has hex hardware which is nice. I havent broken anything on either truck as far as arms or anything. The evader seems similarily durable after the longer ball stud mod.

    These are some of the main gripes i have with the evader:
    Transmission - Obviously this is/was the downfall with running brushless
    Dogbones- While they work fine, the T4/4.1 has solid steel pins in the dogbones instead of spring pins, which should last much longer
    Rear Axles- The pin hole is too close to the hub and you cant tighten the wheels as good as you can on the t4

    Im torn on wether to keep my evader or not. I got a really good deal on my t4 so im not selling it. But the evader will cost me $35 or so for the tranny upgrades and isnt as "nice" of a truck still in that the plastic quality(at least on the tranny case) isnt as good, the hardware isnt as nice, and the dogbones and axles arent as good of a design. I really do like the truck overall though, unfortnately if you are going to do some mods like aluminum shocks, tranny upgrades, etc, the T4 comes out to be the better deal, especially since it resales higher and is a more race bred truck with better aftermarket.

    Both trucks can be equally as good for bashing. You just have to decide which one you want to spend your money on

  14. #89
    JRockZ's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Heres a shot of my Evader, I just love the look of this thing its so aggressive looking


    Running the Nitro Evader 32P Spur and a 17T pinion



    My Severly beat up rear end that i had to mod two motor plates to to give it some strength but....



    As you can see everythings still just falling apart, this is after about 10 Jumps off a wooden ramp at my LHS.


    Rear lower trans screws always falling out and getting lost, rear chassis plate gouged scratched and worn away.
    I hope that my New "brushless evader" chassis plate, wheelie bar, rear motor guard and metal diff gear will hold up.
    I rebuilt the trans again after these pics and the rear end and back to single motor plate, also went back to stock pinion and spur since i chipped the nitro one after getting airborn at full speed off a small hill flying about 3ft high and about 25ft then landing going another 5-10 feet and hitting one of the wooden ramps and getting airborn again,, i got about 10 ft off the ground on that one and came down on the left front stockA arm which has still held up but all the tumbeling and cartwheeling after did the rear end in for the day, i could've fixed it quick but it was chilly out and i was being lazy, as i said i re- did everything after and all is well again, did a few speed bump jumps with it today but expecting my new parts tomorrow or friday so prob wont even run it again till then.
    JRockZ

  15. #90
    JRockZ's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Ahhh ah  haaaah!!  Got my metal Diff today new lower chassis brace and the wheelie bar ,, Psyced!!



    Love the extra support of the new brace but im sure concrete will shave all that down rather quickly !!



    Mwhhhaaaa!! Metal Gear Yippie!!



    JRockZ

  16. #91

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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    let us know how everything holds up.
    - Hobby Shop Employee
    - ModelKits.com & RcTruckStop.com Staff Writer

  17. #92
    JRockZ's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    ORIGINAL: thehuntingterminator

    let us know how everything holds up.
    I surley will, hoping to get it togethe rtonight and test it some tomorrow, but then i leave for vaca for 4 days or so so i wont be around,, anyone else get thier new BL Evader and or BL evader parts?
    JRockZ

  18. #93
    JRockZ's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Got the new metal gear on, the chassis plate and wheelie bar, some new (used) wheels and tires and also got a new body today and the top shaft and gear, which for the BL evader is now a package with 5 parts in it, the slipper shaft (not the same as the etx/ext2) the gear a pin for locking the gear and 2 small shims/washers. I have a slipper set from an electrix Circut  and its pretty much the same shaft and slipper set up however i did not have the spur for it nor slipper pads so i just left the original set up. I ran a pack through it at the tennis courts by my apt and all is well seemed faster and like it had more tourque but that could be my earlier spur and pinion change,  forsure it was quieter, The wheelie bar is awesome i was wheels up all the way across the two tennis courts.
     Took some pics but its to dark now and i wasnt able to get any that show anything sept the new body and wheels n tires i put on , and a shot from the bottom that shows the chassis plate and wheelie wheels.


     




    JRockZ

  19. #94
    rclugnut10's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    lookin nice for sure? is that the whole diff unit or jsut the gear?

    i can't wait till the bank account allows for some of these parts... or like i said just one of these trucks and sell a roller and the esc/motor...

    the lug
    Savage Flux 2350 Evader ST Pro EXT \'\'Detta ST E Choas, HPI E Firestrom Novus CP

  20. #95
    JRockZ's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.


    ORIGINAL: rclugnut10

    lookin nice for sure? is that the whole diff unit or jsut the gear?

    i can't wait till the bank account allows for some of these parts... or like i said just one of these trucks and sell a roller and the esc/motor...

    the lug
    I goit the already built diff so it is the whole unit, you will have to get the full difftoo if you want to upgrade your existing parts,,, as i and cummings had said above theres a bunch more parts inside this diff as well as O-rings and it is fluid filled, i also got that new top shaft too, to be honest with you i think these parts all are pretty much compatable with the Electrix circuit i know for fact the new slipper shaft fits the curcuit's spur and outer plates and possibly the top shaft gear as well, i was going to head up to theLHS and compare some parts but something came up AND im heading out for the holidays tomorrow morn so no more play time. Oh well, enjoy and good luck guys!!
    J
    JRockZ

  21. #96
    JRockZ's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    I guess i should show this off too, with a little clever mounting of my VXL ESC on the stock ESC plate and some careful trimming of the body i have plenty of good free flowing air cooling my ESC (the white tape is temporary protection so i dont scratch the heck out of the new body just yet)
     I also filled the rear spoiler area and shock tower humps with some expanding foam and then trimmed it down neatly. i found on my last body these were the weak points that wore through after awhile or cracked.

    JRockZ

  22. #97
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Looks great!!

    So what parts # do we exactly need to make older EXT2's have the new trans gears and stuff?
    Hope the new top shaft don't wear like the old one did!
    Thanks
    Shenlonco

  23. #98
    JRockZ's Avatar
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.


    ORIGINAL: shenlonco

    Looks great!!

    So what parts # do we exactly need to make older EXT2's have the new trans gears and stuff?
    Hope the new top shaft don't wear like the old one did!
    If you go with the new top shaft you will have to also purchase all the parts to complete the dual slipper spur gear set up, i only replaced DTXC7454 the complete diff,, as i said above i believe that the Electrix circuit stadium truck and probably the boost and the ruckus too should have the same exast slipper set up so check prices maybe worth it. I already had the Slipper pads and washers from an electrix and they fit the new BL Evader shaft prefectly i just havent verified if the electrix gears are the same or not but im guessing so. If so heres the ecx parts that are needed:
    ecx1015 - shaft bearing/s - 6.99
    ecx1022 - idler gears - 5.99
    ecx1023 - shaft & spacer? - 1.99
    ecx1024 all slipper parts - 3.99
    ecx1025 - shaft pin - 1.99
    ecx1052 - washer set - 1.99
    ecx1076 - spur - 2.99
    25.93
    Again i was unable to 100% verify these parts would work so i would suggest checking the BL Evader parts manual and using those parts for now.

    Have a good Xmas all!!
    JRockZ

  24. #99
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    Hey guys,
    Just got my new body for xmas. Dunno why some guys are having issues with their trannys, unless they're all running on asphalt with a tight slipper. They do come pretty dry from the factory. I PACK my tranny with grease. I've been using Losi High Pressure Grease, but reciently changed to Track Power Gear Grease with anti-sling properties. It's stickier and should stay on the gears better. (and CHEAPER) Ihave also had to replace my diff's spyder gears as they were worn out. Irun almost every day, at least two packs. Iopen and re-grease the tranny every couple weeks. Top Gear and Idler are doing just fine. It's plastic diff gears Itend to strip. And apparently now, the diff internals. Got a new metal diff on order.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Just a schmoe....

  25. #100
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    RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.

    ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob

    Hey guys,
    Just got my new body for xmas. Dunno why some guys are having issues with their trannys, unless they're all running on asphalt with a tight slipper. They do come pretty dry from the factory. I PACK my tranny with grease. I've been using Losi High Pressure Grease, but reciently changed to Track Power Gear Grease with anti-sling properties. It's stickier and should stay on the gears better. (and CHEAPER) Ihave also had to replace my diff's spyder gears as they were worn out. Irun almost every day, at least two packs. Iopen and re-grease the tranny every couple weeks. Top Gear and Idler are doing just fine. It's plastic diff gears Itend to strip. And apparently now, the diff internals. Got a new metal diff on order.
    Hahaaa EXT2Robthat body looks sweet!! You could pretty much adapt any body onto the evader IF you know what your doing,,, would love to see a video of yours running with that body on it.

    i ran mine on the stock electrics for like 2 weeks like you pretty much every day then went with a traxxas velineon system and ran another week or so with no issues, then yes i played with my slipper and went a little to tight on it and stripped the outer diff plastic gear like you, when i took everything apart the topshaft gear and idler gear were sharp and pointy, still useable but probably not for much longer so i swapped them all out then a week or so later i got the new Brushless gear imaged above its been in about a week but ive only run 2 or 3 packs through so far but forsure everything is good now, i i just used a small amount of AE black grease in mine this time When i changed the diff i had stripped my 32P spur soI went back to the 48 pitch gears from the 32 pitch and am running a 21T pinion with 88T spur and it is alot slower than when i had the 60T 32P gear with a 17T pinion. I just got my new 60t 32P spur in so i will switch back soon because right now it just seems slow as an old turtle lol.
    JRockZ


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