The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
#154
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
'K, so Iwent down to the LHS (an Ace Hardware) and picked up a 3-piece bundle of that "music wire" (it really is labeled Music Wire). Three pieces about 30in long for under $3. They had all kinds of sizes (thicknesses). We found one that would fit thru the holes in the CV joint. (0.062in or 1.57mm) And guess what? They work for Drive Pins too! I've been going thru those like crazy, so now Ihave Solid Steel drive pins, Iwon't be breaking them. Anyway back to the CVs.....Idid have to run a small drill bit thru the inner piece that holds the pin and set screw, but easy-peasy it went in, Ilocked it down and cut it off with a Dremel cutting wheel. Ialso made a few drive pins for the axels. I'll let you all know how well they hold up after Irun 'em for a while.
#156
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
'K, so I went down to the LHS (an Ace Hardware) and picked up a 3-piece bundle of that ''music wire'' (it really is labeled Music Wire). Three pieces about 30in long for under $3. They had all kinds of sizes (thicknesses). We found one that would fit thru the holes in the CV joint. (0.062in or 1.57mm) And guess what? They work for Drive Pins too! I've been going thru those like crazy, so now I have Solid Steel drive pins, I won't be breaking them. Anyway back to the CVs.....I did have to run a small drill bit thru the inner piece that holds the pin and set screw, but easy-peasy it went in, I locked it down and cut it off with a Dremel cutting wheel. I also made a few drive pins for the axels. I'll let you all know how well they hold up after I run 'em for a while.
'K, so I went down to the LHS (an Ace Hardware) and picked up a 3-piece bundle of that ''music wire'' (it really is labeled Music Wire). Three pieces about 30in long for under $3. They had all kinds of sizes (thicknesses). We found one that would fit thru the holes in the CV joint. (0.062in or 1.57mm) And guess what? They work for Drive Pins too! I've been going thru those like crazy, so now I have Solid Steel drive pins, I won't be breaking them. Anyway back to the CVs.....I did have to run a small drill bit thru the inner piece that holds the pin and set screw, but easy-peasy it went in, I locked it down and cut it off with a Dremel cutting wheel. I also made a few drive pins for the axels. I'll let you all know how well they hold up after I run 'em for a while.
#157
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler
Honestly, I don't blame you. I would not recommend a BL evader to a friend. Mine only works BC I spent lots of time on it and well, around 250 bucks. The QC issue that DTX has is still a problem.
I'm with EXT2Rob. DTX does not care.
Enjoy your 4.1. You will be much happier.
Honestly, I don't blame you. I would not recommend a BL evader to a friend. Mine only works BC I spent lots of time on it and well, around 250 bucks. The QC issue that DTX has is still a problem.
I'm with EXT2Rob. DTX does not care.
Enjoy your 4.1. You will be much happier.
I guess part of this is to be expected with a cheaper truck, but seriously. The quality of the metal driveline parts is the ONLY thing keeping this truck from really shining, and duratrax still hasnt taken the hint.
And for that matter... They could have left the top shaft the same, and saved money and used a high quality nylon for the idler and diff gear and been fine. Thats how my t4 and wifes t4.1 is from the factory (as you know) and they havent had a minutes trouble and i have put some run time on them already. Live and learn i guess.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Apparently duratrax has been working on this instead of the evader[X(]
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/announcement.asp?id=630
Not real sure what to make of it. The 1 thing i do think, is that its a mistake to put a 1 year warranty on any part of a race buggy. Those things get beat and abused. Im anxious to see the price tag. Hope they used better metals on this thing.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/announcement.asp?id=630
Not real sure what to make of it. The 1 thing i do think, is that its a mistake to put a 1 year warranty on any part of a race buggy. Those things get beat and abused. Im anxious to see the price tag. Hope they used better metals on this thing.
#161
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Looks Ofna-ish to me, not so sure Ofna is doing that well maybe duratrax bought into them lol
Sweet though i'd rather go with an ofna so far enjoying my new one very much
Sweet though i'd rather go with an ofna so far enjoying my new one very much
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
HI iam kind of new here,been reading the complaints about the evader diff., well i have the same trouble right now.I have a older evader (green) not sure of the year or model num. i think it's a ST.
Well i had got it going again for my son and then the diff. started slipping and making noise's.I ordered some gears for it from tower h. but the idle gear is to big for bearings and it's still sliping.
So my question is what no i need to rebuild the complet transmission or diff.. bearing size's and gears (plastic or metal ) that would be in stock at tower h. Iam not sure on the type of truck i have ,it's a rear wheel drive and had a stock 20t motor on it .I had paid $119.00 from tower a long time ago. thanks
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
sounds like the ext. the best way to tell is open the diff. if it has gears, its an ext; if it has balls, its an st. i cant look up the numbers right now, but if no one else does i'll do it in a few hours.
#164
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
i would call that an old ST... here's a pic of the green body
sounds like your diff is loose i had that problem a week or so ago, i rebuilt my diff with a new screw and nut and it held much better,
https://sites.google.com/site/evaderinfo/
there's some build vids under the B2 mod of how to do up your diff that i did...
as far as what you ordered sounds like you got the EXT idler, get the steel one from the EXT2
the lug
sounds like your diff is loose i had that problem a week or so ago, i rebuilt my diff with a new screw and nut and it held much better,
https://sites.google.com/site/evaderinfo/
there's some build vids under the B2 mod of how to do up your diff that i did...
as far as what you ordered sounds like you got the EXT idler, get the steel one from the EXT2
the lug
#165
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
If he has the old diff & idler, couldn't he just get a new metal idler and metal diff and call it good?
Welcome to the boards, Phil. What kind of motor are you running in your old Evader? Stock, brushed, brushless?
Get yourself some TracPower blue grease. Once you replace your bad gears, this stuff will really help keep the wear down.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1p?&I=TKPC8008
The new metal diff is fluid-filled with 20,000wt silicon diff fluid. Much smoother than the old one.
Here's a link to the diff and idler:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...diff&search=Go
When you rebuild the diff, apply the grease liberally. Oh, and replace all the brass bushings with bearings.
If you want to upgrade to brushless, this IMHO is the best match for the Evader, and a great value at $70
http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html
Great little motor, it comes with a programming "card" and is FAAAST, but not so over-powered that you'll be stressing the drive train too much.
If you'll be running on pavement, stock tires should be ok, but make sure your slipper is adjusted properly. If you'll run on dirt, upgraded tires will be needed
Welcome to the boards, Phil. What kind of motor are you running in your old Evader? Stock, brushed, brushless?
Get yourself some TracPower blue grease. Once you replace your bad gears, this stuff will really help keep the wear down.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1p?&I=TKPC8008
The new metal diff is fluid-filled with 20,000wt silicon diff fluid. Much smoother than the old one.
Here's a link to the diff and idler:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...diff&search=Go
When you rebuild the diff, apply the grease liberally. Oh, and replace all the brass bushings with bearings.
If you want to upgrade to brushless, this IMHO is the best match for the Evader, and a great value at $70
http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html
Great little motor, it comes with a programming "card" and is FAAAST, but not so over-powered that you'll be stressing the drive train too much.
If you'll be running on pavement, stock tires should be ok, but make sure your slipper is adjusted properly. If you'll run on dirt, upgraded tires will be needed
#166
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
thanks for the info. the motor was replace a while back with a Monster motor not sure on the turns i think around a 19 or 20,its from tower h..
I am just trying to get it back going again for my son,he has been bothering me.I would order a whole new assembly but there out of stock which seen like a regular basis.So i just i will have to take the diff. apart and look at it and order parts.
I am just trying to get it back going again for my son,he has been bothering me.I would order a whole new assembly but there out of stock which seen like a regular basis.So i just i will have to take the diff. apart and look at it and order parts.
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Tower should have one for the EXT and the new brushless but if you have the old school ST you're going to have to re build it yourself, i would tear into it first to find out what you need and such then go from there... and weather or not you have a ball or gear diff
the lug
the lug
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Here is the complete diff. However, i think you'd have to swap axles, dogbones, and the trans plate to run it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-DTX...item5891ba9316
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-DTX...item5891ba9316
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: cummins driver
Here is the complete diff. However, i think you'd have to swap axles, dogbones, and the trans plate to run it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-DTX...item5891ba9316
Here is the complete diff. However, i think you'd have to swap axles, dogbones, and the trans plate to run it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-DTX...item5891ba9316
it's a bit cheaper there...
also if you have an EVADER ST, not EXT you can not run that part with out dumping about $60 into a new transmission and such... kinda over rated, if you have an evader ST which has a different transimission than the EXT, EXT2, and evader Brushless. Therefor kindly check this website out...
https://sites.google.com/site/evaderinfo/
if you have an EXT with a GEAR differential then the above part will work but it sounds like you have the evader ST, which i will state for what feels like the 5th time, doesn't have the same transmission as the EXT or evader brushless...
the lug
#174
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
You guys will prob kick my butt for this, i'm hoping to get a decent deal on this stuff, i have well over 200 invested here and i'll be happy if i make more than 100
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150738628344...84.m1586.l2649
If i dont get a decent price on the evader/s i may jst keep em and do some more bashing, its still fun with a brushed system back in it.
Thanks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150738628344...84.m1586.l2649
If i dont get a decent price on the evader/s i may jst keep em and do some more bashing, its still fun with a brushed system back in it.
Thanks
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
which i will state for what feels like the 5th time, doesn't have the same transmission as the EXT or evader brushless...
the lug
which i will state for what feels like the 5th time, doesn't have the same transmission as the EXT or evader brushless...
the lug
Also, the gearbox at tower isnt in stock yet...