DieHarder

Dang! Nice Evader gestero! Mamba FTW! Looks cool with the clear body. I like the aluminum battery strap too. Nice project! Tell us more about it!

gestero

Thank You Dieharder- I bought the Evader new back in 2006 it had a brushed motor set up and an AM radio (stock). Then The Brushless setups started rolling out, that is when I installed the Mamba Max 5700 KV set up, Metal Idler gear, Blue Alum. motor mount, Titanium Turn buckles , Traxxas 2.4 Radio System. Then I set it to up to run on asphalt, I live in a condo with big parking lots. I do use a Lipo battery. the Blue Alum Battery Strap and Clear Body is just for show, when I run the Evader I have a Beater Body and use a standard Battery Strap. The Evader is very fast and hard to control, back in 2006 wheelies were not an issue. I bought a wheelie bar but it does not fit so I have to put double stick tape on the Motor Guard to protect it from the asphalt. Also the entire chassis is all Graphite which makes the Evader very light also the Shocks are Hard Anodized Alum. I always liked the Evader and glad to see Duratrax is going to start upgrading the current Evader, Brushless and other upgrades.

gestero

Duplicate.

gestero

Just two more pictures.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Nice gestero! WHoo, look at all the graphite! And the Road Rage tires....a street machine. Going for the "Ghost" look, eh?

I had a Castle 5700kv system in my Evader for a while, till the ESC gave out. CA_RAZY fast, but it also tended to strip the plastic diff gear. Big power like that in a 2wd 3.5lb car IS going to be hard to control without judicious throttle application. Adjusting the Mamba's punch and/or throttle curve might help.

DTX did have an Evader Brushless model for a short time, but it was discontinued as an RTR. Why, I'm not entirely sure. Maybe just didn't sell because of the price, and more sophisticated cars in that price range? Dunno. Fortunately, the parts created for the BL model ARE still available. You want a wheelie bar? All you need is the BL-spec rear chassis plate, and the wheelie bar:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURE&P=Z chassis plate
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURM&P=7 wheelie bar

They also made a METAL diff for the BL Evader that eliminated the stripped teeth issue.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURC&P=Z
But it requires use of a newer gearbox than the one on your ST.

You might also want to look at the BL spec front bumper. T-Bone racing also has front AND rear bumpers.

DieHarder

Oh no. Not again!

For I see your running what appears to be CVs. If you want to upgrade to a full metal gearbox, here is what you'll need:

Gearbox Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB4&P=7
Diff Joint Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB2&P=7
Diff Joint Spring Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXA8&P=7
Rear Axle Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSWW3&P=7
10x15mm Ball Bearing-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD144&P=ML
Dog Bone Set-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB3&P=7
BL Rear Chassis Plate-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURE&P=7 or EXT Rear Chassis Plate http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXA5&P=7
4mm Locknuts-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCCUT&P=7
Wheelie Bar (Optional)-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURM&P=7
Assembled Differential-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURC&P=7

The Evader BL diff won't fit in the ST gearbox. The bearings are the wrong size, and the diff is too thick for the gearbox to close. The diff outdrives are also too small to for the dog bones to fit into. So with that, you need new dog bones, axles, and locknuts. (cause the threads on the new axles are different) You'll need new bearings because the new gearbox bearing holes are smaller for the smaller outdrives and smaller bearings. The springs that go between the dog bones and axles are important, otherwise your dog bones will be falling out all the time.

It doesn't appear you need this upgrade if your not constantly stripping gears. It seems to me that running 5700kv on asphalt would definitely strip any plastic gear in the thing...

gestero

Thank You for the information regarding the wheelie bar and how I can get it installed. Throttle control is key, I believe I have been lucky not burning up any gears due to the fact the tires really can not grip the asphalt, they are always spinning and not gripping (high Speed). In fact it is difficult to open up the throttle without loosing the rear from sliding around in a straight line (now its going sideways). Once the tires heat up I can be cruising @ 20mph+ punch the throttle and then it is either a wheelie or the car just flips over. I have fun trying to control the car. But the Wheelie bar will be a big help. I will be going to get that wheelie bar installed and keep having fun as it is. I am actual starting to look for another newer stadium truck model. This Evader model is a relic that went through the transition of the world of brushed to the new brushless era. Come on Duratrax take on the Associated brushless stadium truck 4.2 (that is a nice truck, very well optioned with upgrades @ a good price point).

NoTraxxisRustler

Hey Rob -

Have you noticed excessive slop on the top shaft with the brushless tranny? Bearings are tight in case. Slop appears between shaft and bearing. Does not appear to hurt anything, but I don't like it!!

Thanks
NTR

DieHarder

Must be the shaft is worn out, or you have the wrong size bearings. That's all I can think of. (I know you asked Rob, but I thought I'd throw my $0.02 in. )

NoTraxxisRustler

DieHarder -

So you are saying that you have the brushless tranny and topshaft NOT loose . . . It seemed a little loose when I got it (new from ebay) , bearings look fine. I just replaced them. I do not know how shaft could get worn sitting in a bearing race . . . but I guess stranger things happen . . .

Thanks

DieHarder

As I said, that's my $0.02. I don't own a BL top shaft, but I do have the tranny, while running the ST top shaft. I'm no expert on BL top shafts, but I do know that my ST top shaft doesn't move, and I don't think any top shaft should. Thus, I believe something is wrong w/ with your top shaft. How much slop are you talking? Like it bounces around 1/16" inside the bearing sleeve? Or does the bearing just tightly slide on shaft?

Also, I may have read your statement wrong. Is the bearing just sliding on the top shaft, or is it that you can move the top shaft in and out a little bit while the gearbox is closed? The bearing should move a little bit so that you can get it on and off, but at the same time, fairly tight to the shaft.

If it's the shaft moving in and out inside the gearbox, then you may need a new top shaft, cause maybe the gear itself is shorter. (As is width)

One last thing, that I think may be for sure your problem. Let me check here a sec.......

Ok,


In the diagram above, you see those two little washers that go between the bearings and the actual gear? They are labeled #92. The part number is "DTXC9622". Check and see if those are on there. They are very important for the spacing and alignment of the top shaft. If they aren't then you need to purchase some: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...9622&search=Go It appears that the only way to get them, is to purchase the entire top shaft, which may be a good idea to insure that it'll fix the problem. Otherwise, the gearbox (As in casing) must be worn out....

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Good reply DH. Yeah the top shaft should not have any slop at all. In fact, I usually had a helluva time getting the bearings on/off the top shaft. REALLY tight.
So either it's worn out, or you have the wrong one. When the brushless Evader came out, they redesigned the top shaft & slipper clutch a la Associated's design.
Far as I know, the top shaft for the ST and EXT are the same.

DieHarder

The thing I've always wondered, is if the Evader ST Nitro top shaft would fit in the Evader ST Gearbox. I find the Nitro top shafts easier to come by. They look the exact same. Anyone know?

NoTraxxisRustler

Thanks for your thought on this question. Top shaft always seemed a little loose, looser than the Associated trannys I have encountered. As far as I could see the wobble was in the loose tolerance between shaft and bearing race. But that did not make sense because, well typically a shaft should not spin in the bearing races . . . I had seen real sloppy tolerances in DTX parts before . . . . the aluminum hub carriers were very loose too.

RE the transmission . . . I think I'm the only person in VA to have one of these cars therefore nothing to compare to. Probably will order tranny internals . . .

Thanks again

DieHarder

Did you take it apart to see if the shaft was really moving around within the bearing race? Because it may be the bearing moving in the case, except you stated that the bearings fit fine inside the gearbox. When you installed the bearings, were they hard to slide on the shaft? (All the rest of us have a hell-of-a time using two pairs of needle nose pliers, Super grease, and a high patience tolerance. But in the end, most of us will admit that we got sick of it, exploded, and took it to the LHS for installation. JK JK!)

Basically, do you KNOW that the shaft is moving inside the bearing race? Because you said in your last post that, "As far as you could see" was that the shaft was loose inside the bearing. Could you take it apart and find out?

NoTraxxisRustler

Yep - My observation was that the shaft was loose on the inner bearing race bearing - which sucks - but given the experience I had with the aluminum hub carriers I was not suprised. .I pulled tranny down a couple months ago, suspecting that perhaps the plastic case had wallowed out somehow. The bearing fit tight in the new case, and it really did fit well in the old case . . but the slop continued . . . I checked the bearings themselves and they looked good . . . no up/down play . . . . I did note inner race shaft slop. I was wondering if it was the norm. Did not know how many of you guys had the new top shaft assembly . . . .

I bought the tranny new on ebay, and it had not been used at all . . . I wonder if I have been "Duratraxed" . . .

DieHarder

Do you have a pair of calipers? This will help solve the problem on figuring out what's bad.

Measure the ID of the one of the loose bearings. It should be 0.197". Then measure the OD of the part of the shaft that the bearing is supposed to go on. It should be right around 0.195"- 0.197". Once you have your measurements, subtract the OD of the shaft from the ID of the bearing. This will give you the amount of slop between the two. It should be about 0.003"-0.001" or even better, 0.000". (AKA "0") This may be hard to get the measurements this close to the thousandths, but keep trying, and use the largest number you can come up after 2-3 tries for the ID and the smallest for the OD.

If your bearing ID is 0.197" or slightly smaller, then the bearing is right, and you need a new top shaft, as there is no way to make the top shaft larger, or a bearing smaller while keeping it machine spec round. If the bearing ID is larger than 0.197" by at least 0.003"- 0.004", then the bearing is not right, and you need new ones.

The best test though, is going to be figuring out the slop. (Which is in the first paragraph. (Not the first sentence.)) After you do this, we should be able to determine what's wrong...

NoTraxxisRustler

Yep, I could go through that exercise - but I know the bearing rocks on the shaft . . . just trying to find out if that is the norm with these transmissions . . .

Thanks

DieHarder

That's not norm by any means... I practically end up ruining my bearings after pounding them on with a socket and hammer on my work bench. Definitely something wrong there, yo! (Maybe that's why my top shaft appears bent... )

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah, that doesn't sound normal....I think maybe an incorrect bearing got in the assembly bin, and the little Chinese boy didn't notice it. I've seen some odd reliabliity issues with top shafts in the past, but not egregious tolerance "oopsies". I'd consider ordering a new one, and a couple new bearings.

DudaDude

whered you get the graphite (shocktowers?) @gestro

DudaDude

about to make my order, only question is what do I need the 4mm locknuts and differential output joints for?

DieHarder

Ok. I'm sorry about that. You can delete the output joints. They come on the assembled Evader BL Differential. I didn't see that there, but I assume your getting it.

As for the 4mm locknuts, you need those for the wheel nuts. The new axles that your purchasing have 4mm threads. The old ST ones had "English" threads. So you need the 4mm, as your old ones won't thread on.

One more thing. We talked so much about the differential being metal, we didn't mention anything about the rest of the gearbox. Your going to want a full metal gearbox, so right now, if you buy the metal diff upgrade, your still going to have one gear that's still plastic. (Excluding the spur) That's the idler gear. (The gear between the top shaft and differential.) Here is the upgraded metal one. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAEJL&P=7 Be sure to get this, and don't confuse it with the plastic version.

I also didn't see the wheelie bar on there that I mentioned above. I did state that it's optional, but if your planning on running any brushless power, it's definitely necessary. DEFINITELY!

That should be all you need.

(The one thing I'm a bit worried about, is when I bought my assembled differential, it came unassembled and missing stuff, such as the output joints, shims, and screws. But when EXT2Rob bought one it came assembled. The same for some other members on here. So I'm assuming they fixed it. Also, I bought mine at the local hobby shop (LHS). If your ordering from Tower Hobbies, I'm pretty sure it's going to come how it is in the picture. (Which is assembled) If it doesn't come assembled, then you can always buy the rest of the parts later, and I can ship you some shims that are custom. Like I said though, I'm pretty sure it's fixed, and I'm 99% sure you won't have a problem. I'm probably typing this warning for no reason, as everything will show up right... )

So go ahead and make those order changes as in the first 4 paragraphs/sentences of this post, and place your order! Hope I'm not too late!

DudaDude

I waited for your response no worries. and I bought that other metal gear when I bought the new differential at my hobby shop.

DudaDude

and I'm gonna wait to go brushless. the car is upgraded to 2.4 ghz if I didn't mention that already