The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
01-07-2014, 05:15 PM
#1801
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I want tread like this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXBSZ2&P=ML Like I said rim doesn't matter. needs to be a 12mm hex since I'm buying the conversion
01-07-2014, 05:38 PM
#1802
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01-07-2014, 05:54 PM
#1803
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would these (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDFAL&P=7) fit these (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAEJP&P=V)
?
I'm just looking for all terrain grip
?
I'm just looking for all terrain grip
01-07-2014, 06:05 PM
#1804
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01-07-2014, 06:07 PM
#1805
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those tires are ok on the street but kinda crap anywhere else. speaking from personal experience. these work very well on dirt and asphalt http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDU11&P=SM they grip so well i have wheelied on gravel.
01-07-2014, 06:10 PM
#1807
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01-07-2014, 07:24 PM
#1811
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i was wrong, they do come in white and are in stock http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXM874&P=7 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXM870&P=7
01-09-2014, 09:34 PM
#1814
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01-10-2014, 08:15 AM
#1815
Sorry Dude, I can't help ya much there. RPM makes good wheels. I use Slingshots, and my buddy uses Talonz. However they are not hex. I did a quick look to see if they had any, but didn't see 'em. The wheels I use are made for the Losi XXXT. You might want to email them and tell them what you're looking for (be as specific as possible, dimensions and all) I'm sure they can find something that'll work for you.
Yeah, "browsing" Tower is kinda hard if you don't know what you're looking for.
Nice video DH. I like the butter tub idea for capturing the cut pins. Why are you using 0.055in dia wire? My EXT needed 0.062in wire, and they still fit loosely. Are the holes in your stub axles smaller on the ST?
Yeah, "browsing" Tower is kinda hard if you don't know what you're looking for.
Nice video DH. I like the butter tub idea for capturing the cut pins. Why are you using 0.055in dia wire? My EXT needed 0.062in wire, and they still fit loosely. Are the holes in your stub axles smaller on the ST?
01-10-2014, 08:52 AM
#1816
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French onion dip container.... LOL
Well, when I measured the hole diameter when I first bought the axles, it was about 0.058". I might have had the caliper tipped a little... But the seem to fit fine. They are definitely NOT at all tight, but fit pretty good. I'm using the EXT axles. I haven't broke any pins or ripped anything out, so they seem to be fine. I don't remember the whole ordeal that well since it happened a year ago, but I would guess that I got the 0.055" instead of 0.062" (Which was the next size up) because I didn't want to have to return the 0.062" to the LHS, which is all the way down in Holland. I probably wanted to be sure that it would work.
Actually, I think the ST axles require even bigger pins. Most of the drivetrain stuff on the ST is oversized and rugged, they just screwed it up by using plastic gears. The outdrives, CVs, drive pins, etc. are all big, metal, and rugged. They look like they could handle BL power, but the diff and idler is plastic,... ruining it.
Well, when I measured the hole diameter when I first bought the axles, it was about 0.058". I might have had the caliper tipped a little... But the seem to fit fine. They are definitely NOT at all tight, but fit pretty good. I'm using the EXT axles. I haven't broke any pins or ripped anything out, so they seem to be fine. I don't remember the whole ordeal that well since it happened a year ago, but I would guess that I got the 0.055" instead of 0.062" (Which was the next size up) because I didn't want to have to return the 0.062" to the LHS, which is all the way down in Holland. I probably wanted to be sure that it would work.
Actually, I think the ST axles require even bigger pins. Most of the drivetrain stuff on the ST is oversized and rugged, they just screwed it up by using plastic gears. The outdrives, CVs, drive pins, etc. are all big, metal, and rugged. They look like they could handle BL power, but the diff and idler is plastic,... ruining it.
01-10-2014, 09:51 AM
#1817
That's really interesting about the ST. Again, what was DTX thinking?? 
Yep, that music wire stuff is tough as nails. They'll never break.
I was working on my TT yesterday, checking all the bearings and the diffs, getting ready for another race day. I found one 11x15mm bearing completely froze up! Found several others that were getting stiff. No wonder my motor temps were higher than Warren's last time! When I removed the center diff, I inspected the front/rear dogbones and on one end of the front 'bone, the "ears" were almost worn completely away! These pins are solid pins, not rolled pins like the DTX 'bones. I tried pressing the pin out like you could with the DTX 'bones, but it wasn't budging. So I guess I need to replace the whole 'bone.
Yep, that music wire stuff is tough as nails. They'll never break.I was working on my TT yesterday, checking all the bearings and the diffs, getting ready for another race day. I found one 11x15mm bearing completely froze up! Found several others that were getting stiff. No wonder my motor temps were higher than Warren's last time! When I removed the center diff, I inspected the front/rear dogbones and on one end of the front 'bone, the "ears" were almost worn completely away! These pins are solid pins, not rolled pins like the DTX 'bones. I tried pressing the pin out like you could with the DTX 'bones, but it wasn't budging. So I guess I need to replace the whole 'bone.
01-12-2014, 03:57 PM
#1818
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Nice video DH. You've got some production talent. Good idea using the dip container. Those puppies really can fly when you cut them. You went the extra step. I just cut my wires to fit and install them!
01-13-2014, 10:42 AM
#1820
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For converting to 12mm this seems to be a good write up...
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=402
i'm using these in the back for 2.8" tire with a traxxas hex the wheel nuts are a tight fit if you're using the ST driveshafts but the EXT ones are just fine.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNDA2
DTX makes spacers to keep the hubs from rubbing on the face of the bearing
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMC5&P=7
the inner lip rides against the inner race of the bearing...
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=402
i'm using these in the back for 2.8" tire with a traxxas hex the wheel nuts are a tight fit if you're using the ST driveshafts but the EXT ones are just fine.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNDA2
DTX makes spacers to keep the hubs from rubbing on the face of the bearing
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMC5&P=7
the inner lip rides against the inner race of the bearing...
01-15-2014, 09:28 PM
#1822
The 2nd EXI D227 servo crapped out our last race day. Good thing I had a trusty Hitec as a standby. I'm disappointed, but I suppose I shouldn't be. Yeah it was a $15 servo. But I've had more than one $15 servo last for TWO YEARS, not two months. (or less) I might go thru the process (not much of one, really, I'm already registered) to submit a trouble ticket and get another replacement, just to have another spare I suppose.
01-16-2014, 08:55 AM
#1824
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Huh....
My Evader still needs a mountain of stuff. I stole most of the electronics from it for my plow truck project and ended up ruining them. Then I had to buy different and better electronics for the plow truck, leaving me with only the plow truck working (It was), and the Evader roller on my desk. Currently have less than $50 in my wallet. Gonna have to get working soon. Need money, yo!
My Evader still needs a mountain of stuff. I stole most of the electronics from it for my plow truck project and ended up ruining them. Then I had to buy different and better electronics for the plow truck, leaving me with only the plow truck working (It was), and the Evader roller on my desk. Currently have less than $50 in my wallet. Gonna have to get working soon. Need money, yo!