Register

If this is your first visit, please click the Sign Up now button to begin the process of creating your account so you can begin posting on our forums! The Sign Up process will only take up about a minute of two of your time.

Page 78 of 88 FirstFirst ... 28687677787980 ... LastLast
Results 1,926 to 1,950 of 2196

  1. #1926
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,222
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Yes, I do have an extremely fast and over-powered system. But as you said, it CAN handle it. With a few adjustments and upgrades, it will work and be reliable. After I replace the plastic spur with a metal one, it should work for months to come.... I think I'm one of the few that are forced to get a metal spur because even the RRP stealth ones that I'm using are stripping. I have even jammed the mesh as tight as possible to make a really strong, but stiff mesh. Then I let it wear in. It still stripped after a few runs. So I haven't run my Evader since last fall...

    The best Evader I think that Duratrax came out with, was the Evader Brushless. It had a bulletproof tranny, cool body, killer brushless system, ok tires, and an awesome wheelie bar/front bumper. The only bad part IMO was the plastic shocks. A better set of tires too would make it a very desirable machine. But guess what,.... They had the awesome and great RC that they came out with that was gonna put Duratrax on the billboards, AND THEY DISCONTINUE THE THING!!! WHY?!? You can still buy parts for it though, which is what I did. I took my Evader ST and bought many of the Evader Brushless parts and bolted them on. Now my Evader is quite custom and much like the Evader Brushless. Members here will show and explain to you how to hop it up to be strong and reliable. As stated before, I did not follow the motor size guidelines, and have dearly paid for it in broken parts.... But once you feel the power, going with a smaller motor is ridiculous in your mind. Never again will it run on something smaller than a 10.5T extra large 540. Evader is definitely a good choice. I can think of better ones, but the Evader is one of the best, and with about $200 in hop ups, can be made perfect.

    BTW @ Rob, I believe they are called "Bevel Gears", and not "Sun Gears". And the little ones inside are called "Spider Gears". And I'm pretty sure those "pins behind the sun gears" are called "Differential Output Joint Pins". And.... jk jk lol Just pick'in on ya!

    I sheared one of those pins off once. It makes a nasty sound that makes you shriek in terror wondering what just happened to your expensive vehicle. (After hop ups) When it happened to me it happened during a speed run. So it coasted to a stop with a grinding sound. I took it apart to see the transmission looking normal, then popped the diff case side and saw a stubbed pin. That's when Rob lead me to making music wire pins, and I haven't had a problem since. Music wire is definitely the way to go!

    Anymore specific questions?
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  2. #1927
    Microz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Downingtown, PA
    Posts
    519
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Quote Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
    Actually, Tower Hobbies carries OEM aluminum parts for the Evader. Some are no longer available, but most are. However the only ones I'd recommend spending the money on are not too bad, like the front hinge pin brace, it's only $3 and is well worth it. The front bulkhead might also be good to get, and I like the aluminum motor plate as it helps cool the motor.

    These bumpers from T-bone Racing are great. THey will go a long way to making your Evader bashable.
    http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/D...2-ST-p183.html
    http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/D...2-ST-p158.html

    I mentioned the music wire. I was breaking wheel drive pins when I switched to brushless. THe drive pins are hollow, roller-pins, and they just don't hold up. You can get music wire at your hobby shop. It's make by K&S Precision Metals. Stock # 504 0.062in (1.57mm) works for the drive wheels. They don;t fit tight, and tend to fall out when you take the wheel off, but they'll never break. Stock #502 is 0.047in (1.19mm) and can be used in the Duratrax CV axels but also in the metal diff. There are two pins that each hold one of the drive cups in the diff and that are driven by the large "sun gears". Those pins can also break, and of they do, your diff gears can get munched. Replace that pin behind the sun gears with music wire pins and you'll never need worry. ALSO, on that metal diff, you'll want to first take it all apart and clean everything, especially the screw holes. Then use blue loctite for the screws during reassembly. If any of those screws come loose and you loose diff gear mesh, PFFT! there goes your diff gears again. So make sure those screws don't come loose. I also suggest using TrakPower Waterproof Gear Grease in the diff instead of silicone fluid, as well as for the tranny gears.

    Have fun with it!
    Thanks for the links! So far, it sounds like if I was to drop in a brushless setup, there are a couple of upgrades that should be done/bought? Of course, they will surely be cheaper than those on my Desert Buggy XL!

    Do you have any pictures of the music wire drive pins?
    Quote Originally Posted by DieHarder View Post
    Yes, I do have an extremely fast and over-powered system. But as you said, it CAN handle it. With a few adjustments and upgrades, it will work and be reliable. After I replace the plastic spur with a metal one, it should work for months to come.... I think I'm one of the few that are forced to get a metal spur because even the RRP stealth ones that I'm using are stripping. I have even jammed the mesh as tight as possible to make a really strong, but stiff mesh. Then I let it wear in. It still stripped after a few runs. So I haven't run my Evader since last fall...

    The best Evader I think that Duratrax came out with, was the Evader Brushless. It had a bulletproof tranny, cool body, killer brushless system, ok tires, and an awesome wheelie bar/front bumper. The only bad part IMO was the plastic shocks. A better set of tires too would make it a very desirable machine. But guess what,.... They had the awesome and great RC that they came out with that was gonna put Duratrax on the billboards, AND THEY DISCONTINUE THE THING!!! WHY?!? You can still buy parts for it though, which is what I did. I took my Evader ST and bought many of the Evader Brushless parts and bolted them on. Now my Evader is quite custom and much like the Evader Brushless. Members here will show and explain to you how to hop it up to be strong and reliable. As stated before, I did not follow the motor size guidelines, and have dearly paid for it in broken parts.... But once you feel the power, going with a smaller motor is ridiculous in your mind. Never again will it run on something smaller than a 10.5T extra large 540. Evader is definitely a good choice. I can think of better ones, but the Evader is one of the best, and with about $200 in hop ups, can be made perfect.

    BTW @ Rob, I believe they are called "Bevel Gears", and not "Sun Gears". And the little ones inside are called "Spider Gears". And I'm pretty sure those "pins behind the sun gears" are called "Differential Output Joint Pins". And.... jk jk lol Just pick'in on ya!

    I sheared one of those pins off once. It makes a nasty sound that makes you shriek in terror wondering what just happened to your expensive vehicle. (After hop ups) When it happened to me it happened during a speed run. So it coasted to a stop with a grinding sound. I took it apart to see the transmission looking normal, then popped the diff case side and saw a stubbed pin. That's when Rob lead me to making music wire pins, and I haven't had a problem since. Music wire is definitely the way to go!

    Anymore specific questions?
    Thanks! Sounds like this thread should have a good bit of those recommended upgrades and motor limits in here somewhere. You must really beat on your evader! It handles it fine though?

    Oh and do you also have pictures of the music wire drive pins? I'm a little bit confused by that bit.




    Thanks both of you for the great amount of info! I really appreciate it. Hopefully I'll be able to show off my Evader on this thread.
    Cars: Axial SCX10, Losi Desert Buggy XL
    Planes: Ember 2

  3. #1928
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Placerville, CA
    Posts
    1,732
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Yeah Microz, DH does indeed work his Evader pretty hard. Notice that he mentions he's stripping his spur gears? Think it might be just a little over-powered?
    That's why, IMHO, a full size (540/550) motor is just too much for the Evader, IF you want long term reliability. I run HobbyWing EZrun B2 Combos (35Amp/4300kv) in all three of my cars (two evaders and one ofna hyper 10TT) and they are perfectly suited to the light-weight Evader. And they do darn well in the heavier 4wd Hyper TT, too, tho probably worked a little harder as it weighs a pound more than the Evader.

    I could take a picture of the music wire drive pins, but it wouldn't be very interesting. The stuff is just thin metal rod. Comes in 30in lengths, three lengths to a bundle, for like $2.99. So you have to cut little pieces off, of the proper length, to make a drive pin, that's all. You can use a sturdy wire cutter to do that, but this stuff is HARD, and unless you use a butter tub with a lid that you can poke the rod thru when you go to cut pieces off, they'll go flying off like bullets, and possibly hurt someone, nevermind loosing the dang thing. So I use a dremel tool and a cutting wheel. Note that the pins will not fit tightly, like the roller pins. So make a bunch of them to keep on-hand, as you will loose a pin before you can break it.

    Does that clear things up a little more for ya?
    Just a schmoe....

  4. #1929
    Microz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Downingtown, PA
    Posts
    519
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Quote Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
    Yeah Microz, DH does indeed work his Evader pretty hard. Notice that he mentions he's stripping his spur gears? Think it might be just a little over-powered?
    That's why, IMHO, a full size (540/550) motor is just too much for the Evader, IF you want long term reliability. I run HobbyWing EZrun B2 Combos (35Amp/4300kv) in all three of my cars (two evaders and one ofna hyper 10TT) and they are perfectly suited to the light-weight Evader. And they do darn well in the heavier 4wd Hyper TT, too, tho probably worked a little harder as it weighs a pound more than the Evader.

    I could take a picture of the music wire drive pins, but it wouldn't be very interesting. The stuff is just thin metal rod. Comes in 30in lengths, three lengths to a bundle, for like $2.99. So you have to cut little pieces off, of the proper length, to make a drive pin, that's all. You can use a sturdy wire cutter to do that, but this stuff is HARD, and unless you use a butter tub with a lid that you can poke the rod thru when you go to cut pieces off, they'll go flying off like bullets, and possibly hurt someone, nevermind loosing the dang thing. So I use a dremel tool and a cutting wheel. Note that the pins will not fit tightly, like the roller pins. So make a bunch of them to keep on-hand, as you will loose a pin before you can break it.

    Does that clear things up a little more for ya?
    Ah okay thanks! Yeah that makes things much more clear. Oh and does the Evader EXT2.4 have any difference than the EXT2 besides a 2.4ghz radio? I think I said EXT2 before, but I forgot that its now called the EXT2.4.

    Is this the motor you are running?
    http://www.falconsekido.com/products/ezm3650sl
    Cars: Axial SCX10, Losi Desert Buggy XL
    Planes: Ember 2

  5. #1930
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Placerville, CA
    Posts
    1,732
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Yeah, that's the motor. See if they have the Combo that includes the ESC and the Programming Box. I get mine from HobbyPartz.
    http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html $76 for the combo! (The site you listed wants $123 )

    And you're right, the Evader 2.4 just includes an up-to-date radio system. Wish they would have included the old brushless model's bumper. That would have been a worthwhile addition. But they wanted to keep the $169 price.

    Check out the Gens Ace Lipos too. http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-50...se-direct.html Good value.
    Last edited by EXT2Rob; 04-27-2014 at 09:04 AM.
    Just a schmoe....

  6. #1931
    Microz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Downingtown, PA
    Posts
    519
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Quote Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
    Yeah, that's the motor. See if they have the Combo that includes the ESC and the Programming Box. I get mine from HobbyPartz.
    http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html $76 for the combo! (The site you listed wants $123 )

    And you're right, the Evader 2.4 just includes an up-to-date radio system. Wish they would have included the old brushless model's bumper. That would have been a worthwhile addition. But they wanted to keep the $169 price.

    Check out the Gens Ace Lipos too. http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-50...se-direct.html Good value.
    Thanks! I'll check out the combo. I already have a LCD programming card, so I'm thinking of buying the motor and ESC separately. I'll check out the Gens Ace lipos too.
    Cars: Axial SCX10, Losi Desert Buggy XL
    Planes: Ember 2

  7. #1932
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,222
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback


    Here is a video on the wheel drive pins that I did. I admit, it is a corny video, but you get the point if you take the time to watch the whole thing. I wish I did a better job on it, but a little too late. I guess when I express the inner corniness that all of us have, into a video, it's no wonder I got a dislike. But I don't give a crap about my image on YouTube so much, so I have no reason to take it down. In a year I might have 100 dislikes, but maybe somebody will get something out of it...

    One more thing. I used 0.055" diameter music wire, but according to Rob, I should have used 0.062" music wire. Mine fit sloppily and I'm starting to think that maybe I should use the 0.062 instead, as the 0.055" ones are loose and may be wearing the hole in which they fit bigger. So definitely take Rob's advice on sizing for that.

    I have not used any Gens Ace batteries before, but my next ones will be. I have used a few Venom 5000mah 40C instead. When you get a 2S lipo, be sure to go 40C and not 25C or 30C, as there is not enough punch to the throttle IMO. I put my Evader through a lot, and I pay for it in broken parts, but I'm getting really close to having it tuned out to stay in one piece for my driving style. I'm a pure basher and that's it. I guess when I say things like that, I realize what kind abuse I put my RCs through,...

    For you to go brushless, you only need these three things, and two of them are optional. I believe the EXT2 has the metal idler gear, right? (@ Rob)

    BL Rear Chassis Plate (Optional)-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURE&P=7
    Wheelie Bar (Optional)-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURM&P=7
    Assembled Differential-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURC&P=7

    So it only costs $30 for you. Was much more for me and the other guys with Evader STs. EXT2 is the best one to get currently IMO.
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  8. #1933
    Microz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Downingtown, PA
    Posts
    519
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Quote Originally Posted by DieHarder View Post


    Here is a video on the wheel drive pins that I did. I admit, it is a corny video, but you get the point if you take the time to watch the whole thing. I wish I did a better job on it, but a little too late. I guess when I express the inner corniness that all of us have, into a video, it's no wonder I got a dislike. But I don't give a crap about my image on YouTube so much, so I have no reason to take it down. In a year I might have 100 dislikes, but maybe somebody will get something out of it...

    One more thing. I used 0.055" diameter music wire, but according to Rob, I should have used 0.062" music wire. Mine fit sloppily and I'm starting to think that maybe I should use the 0.062 instead, as the 0.055" ones are loose and may be wearing the hole in which they fit bigger. So definitely take Rob's advice on sizing for that.

    I have not used any Gens Ace batteries before, but my next ones will be. I have used a few Venom 5000mah 40C instead. When you get a 2S lipo, be sure to go 40C and not 25C or 30C, as there is not enough punch to the throttle IMO. I put my Evader through a lot, and I pay for it in broken parts, but I'm getting really close to having it tuned out to stay in one piece for my driving style. I'm a pure basher and that's it. I guess when I say things like that, I realize what kind abuse I put my RCs through,...

    For you to go brushless, you only need these three things, and two of them are optional. I believe the EXT2 has the metal idler gear, right? (@ Rob)

    BL Rear Chassis Plate (Optional)-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURE&P=7
    Wheelie Bar (Optional)-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURM&P=7
    Assembled Differential-http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBURC&P=7

    So it only costs $30 for you. Was much more for me and the other guys with Evader STs. EXT2 is the best one to get currently IMO.
    Thanks for the video! It actually helped clear things up pretty well. It was quite corny though yes. But it was still really informational. I was surprised to see the amount of sparks something that small was making when you were grinding it!

    I'll be sure to pick up .062" music wire. As for lipos, I actually have only 1 right now, and its a SPC racing lipo. Heres a link to it:

    http://spcracingbatteries.com/index....&product_id=56

    I'm liking it so far in my SCX10, but that can only tell you so much since the SCX10 goes slow.

    Thanks for the list of items! Not expensive at all...thats good to know!
    Cars: Axial SCX10, Losi Desert Buggy XL
    Planes: Ember 2

  9. #1934
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Placerville, CA
    Posts
    1,732
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    /RANT

    G()D Freakin' DANG IT and a whole lotta other bad words!!!! What the HELL is with INTEGY?? I've bought a couple items from them over the last months, using a credit card on their website. No problems. But over the last few days, I've been trying to order three items from them, and they keep saying the bank is declining the credit card. OK How bout the debit card? Nope declined. We want to be paid by PayPal. OH FER CRYIN' OUT...!!!!! SERIOUSLY?? ****. And BTW, this is all going on by EMAIL because Integy DOESN"T HAVE A FEKKING PHONE NUMBER!! ***??? What kind of company doesn't have a phone number for someone to call if there's a problem with their order??!?! Is THIS the FUTURE??? PPPPPTHTTHH!!!!
    So I wait a day. I check with my bank. No, there's no problem. So I place the order again. Same thing happens.
    "Alright alright!! I give! I'll sign up with paypal! JEZUS ! I just want my stuff!! "
    Place the order again! PayPal says payment has been made! YAY! FINALLY! NOT!!!
    Another email: Bank declined. AAARRRGGHHH!!! ***!!? Bank says no problem....WHAT THE HELL'S WITH PAYPAL AND INTEGY!???
    What's wrong with a credit card and a phone number, HUH??? JEEEEZZ!!!!
    /RANT OFF

    Seriously, I'm at a loss as to what to do. How am I supposed to deal with "someone" (Integy & PayPal) who doesn't want to talk to me?? This is really pissing me off.
    I did not want to sign up with PAYPAL, I did not want to link my bank account, I just wanted to buy some parts with one of two perfectly valid cards.
    I'm flummoxed. And peeved.
    Last edited by EXT2Rob; 04-30-2014 at 11:35 PM.
    Just a schmoe....

  10. #1935
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Placerville, CA
    Posts
    1,732
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Well, after all was said and done, the parts I ordered are on their way. It was extremely frustrating having to deal with Integy entirely via email, but I have to give Bill at Integy props for sorting it out and letting me know which orders went thru and which didn't, and that in the end, the right orders had gone thru and my parts had shipped. But this was over a 5 day period. All could have been resolved in a 5 MINUTE phone call, but they don't have a phone. What the ****?

    Doing a little research, that is looking for a phone number, I noticed, of course, that Integy isn't too well thought of. No warranty, no customer service, no phone number, and crappy products. That concerned me, as I've ordered a few thing s from them. So I dug a little more. It seems the consensus is that it's mainly Integy suspension arms that are the cause of the all the ire. Not strong enough. But that OTHER parts, like fan-sinks, chassis components, and I will submit steering knuckles, are just fine. Stay away from their suspension arms, and you probably won't be disappointed.

    I just happened to have a bad experience with this order. In the end, I will get my parts. Will I buy from Integy again? I'm still thinking about that....
    Just a schmoe....

  11. #1936
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,222
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    I've heard about some of their issues. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone really, as I know a guy who took his HPI Savage HP and bought EVERY SINGLE aluminum part available from Integy, building it up to be this long heavy monster truck. He finally got it put together and broke a suspension arm on the first run just driving slow through the yard over mole hills like a crawler. Now that it weighs over 20lbs, I think the weight of all the aluminum parts is working against him putting to much strain on only select aluminum parts. Though Integy has a sad reputation and select bad parts, they did a good job on bringing aluminum parts for nearly every popular hobby-grade car. So if anyone ever wanted to buy aluminum for their vehicle, they most likely could. It may not be the best choice, but it is available to them. I say that's a step in the right direction. If they could get their quality up, sell more quality parts that make people happy and buy more, and make the site easier to use and more informative, then I think they could become a highly rated, well known, and profitable company that supplies top quality aftermarket parts to hobbyists internationally. If they take a different approach on their business attack, they have a chance at turning it around and becoming known like the company "RPM" who also supplies aftermarket parts to RC enthusiasts. (I wish RPM had more Evader aftermarket hop-ups though...)

    Anyway, that's my two cents....
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  12. #1937
    cumquat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    6,555
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    the problem is that many of their parts aren't hardened. not a problem for heat sinks and smaller pieces but on arms, shock towers and other high stress and/or large parts that is unacceptable.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  13. #1938
    RustyUs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    central PA
    Posts
    482
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Hey there. Just wanted to let yall know that I have been using a EZ-Run 9T Brushless combo for about 4 years now in my ST Pro. The motor and ESC have not let me down. I put a EXT Brushless tranny in and now I can tell you Duratrax rims do not stand up to high power motors with lipos,

    Has anyone tried installing Losi hex adapters on the rear axles? This is my next step in upgrading my ST Pro to gain durability with rear rims.

  14. #1939
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,222
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    First off, which ones were you thinking of? I think you can use just about any hex adapter that is 12mm. What do you think Rob?

    If you are still running the pin style, I can recommend something. I had the same problem with my rims stripping out, until I realized that there is this little washer that goes in between the rim and the bearing race. I found that the previous owner put the washer in between the two rear bearings inside the hub where what spacer goes. So I put it on the outside where it is supposed to be. This allowed me to tighten down my lug nut all the way without the wheel seizing up. Before it would seize up from the rim rubbing on the hub, but the washer spaces things out and doesn't allow that to happen. So basically, just check to see if there is a little washer and make sure you can tighten down your wheel without it seizing up.

    Otherwise, you should be able to use the Losi hex adapters, I believe.
    Last edited by DieHarder; 06-11-2014 at 09:15 PM.
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  15. #1940
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Placerville, CA
    Posts
    1,732
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    No one ever accused Duratrax of making good wheels. Just about any aftermarket wheel will work, and last, a lot better...pin drive or hex. I use RPM wheels, pin drive, and rarely had a problem, once I switched to using music wire pins. THose roller pins don't hold up to brushless power, either. You may also find the pins inside the diff might fail (If you ever hear a grinding sound, STOP!) and music wire fixes that too. 1.57mm for the wheels, and 1.19mm for the diff. Comes in 30in lengths three to a bundle for like $3 at the hobby shop or hardware store. You'll loose pins before you break them! And those little washers between the wheel drive pins and the bearing IS important. Problem is, you can't get them from Duratrax, there is no part number! There is a Durango part number that works. Let me know if you need it, I'll go dig it up.
    Just a schmoe....

  16. #1941
    RustyUs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    central PA
    Posts
    482
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Thanks for the info DieHarder and Rob. I do use the washers between the axle pin and bearing. I had just put some new Losi step pins tires on Duratrax rims...WOW...within less than 4 days I had destroyed the center of the rims. Those Step Pin tires have so much grip and the stress put on the Duratrax rims was too great. I have no LHS to run to and grab parts from. I have have two sets of rear Duratrax rims to use up before I try some Losi rims I just ordered.

    I can't believe I just spent two hours of my life ungluing tires from rims. 'Never had to do that ever... until... Duratrax meets brushless motor.

    I'm gonna try to keep my ST running as long as parts are still being made. The Duratrax ST is my relaxation tool (making dirt/dust fly) after work I run the ST Pro on my track I built beside my house. I gave up racing, but when I did, I always liked to run what the other guys didn't. Back in the day I raced a Traxxas Blue Eagle truck against converted RC10s then I had a Traxxas TCP buggy going up against RC10s and a field of Losi buggies.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	house2.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	239.5 KB 
ID:	2005045  
    Eek says, "it never hurts to help".
    Pit Stop Hobbies and Bumps and Jumps RC ... I will find my way back soon, I hope.
    My "bucket list"... Gotta visit LCRC and hop on over to Richfield Raceway

  17. #1942
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Placerville, CA
    Posts
    1,732
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Nice Track layout! Looks like fun. Let's see some ground level pics.

    Here is a parts list from Tower Hobbies for the Evader brushless:
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=DTXD37**&P=Z

    ...and the EXT2
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5p?&I=DTXD32**

    There is lots of overlap between these two lists, but they're not exact duplicates, so peruse both lists.

    These are the wheels I use on my Evader
    http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...FYqPfgodvCEA0A

    How are you un-gluing your tires? I've found the best way is to get a tupperware tub with lid big enough to put the tires/wheels in and cover it Pour in acetone so you have about a half inch in the tub.and place the wheels/tires in the tub and cover it. After about a half hour, open the tub and check the soaked sides, the rubber should come loose from the wheels. If they have come loose, flip the wheels over and soak the other side. I know for sure that ProLine and RPM wheels can handle the acetone.
    Just a schmoe....

  18. #1943
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,222
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    That is one awesome track! Nice pool and mowing stripes too! Strangely, I still run the Evader Brushless/EXT2 rims with my Proline Badlands and haven't had a problem. As you know Rob, I drive it hard! lol Are you running music wire wheel pins or stock spring pins?
    Quote Originally Posted by rustyus View Post
    Thanks for the info DieHarder and Rob. I do use the washers between the axle pin and bearing. I had just put some new Losi step pins tires on Duratrax rims...WOW...within less than 4 days I had destroyed the center of the rims. Those Step Pin tires have so much grip and the stress put on the Duratrax rims was too great. I have no LHS to run to and grab parts from. I have have two sets of rear Duratrax rims to use up before I try some Losi rims I just ordered.

    I can't believe I just spent two hours of my life ungluing tires from rims. 'Never had to do that ever... until... Duratrax meets brushless motor.

    I'm gonna try to keep my ST running as long as parts are still being made. The Duratrax ST is my relaxation tool (making dirt/dust fly) after work I run the ST Pro on my track I built beside my house. I gave up racing, but when I did, I always liked to run what the other guys didn't. Back in the day I raced a Traxxas Blue Eagle truck against converted RC10s then I had a Traxxas TCP buggy going up against RC10s and a field of Losi buggies.
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  19. #1944
    cumquat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    6,555
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    it helps to crank the lock nut until you physically cant anymore. doing this means the pin cant gain any play, which in turn reduces stripping. when you are ready for different rims, the hpi SS monster wheels will fit.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  20. #1945
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,222
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Oh, yeah, that's another thing. Buy new lock nuts. Lots of times the nylon locking part gets threads carved into it, making it lose the grabbiness. Or even just check when the nut is off if the nylon part looks out of position or deformed. I would buy new ones if you haven't already...
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  21. #1946
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Placerville, CA
    Posts
    1,732
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    +2 on new wheel nuts! Those things only last so long. Yeah Nate, I have been using music wire pins since I learned about music wire a couple years ago.
    Just a schmoe....

  22. #1947
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,222
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    Sorry Rob, was referring to Rusty. I didn't quite make that clear. I read my post just now and I can see that I had my paragraph structure mixed up. I would've thought the same thing you did.
    Quote Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
    Yeah Nate, I have been using music wire pins since I learned about music wire a couple years ago.
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  23. #1948
    I figured the aluminum idler wouldnt really be the fix

  24. #1949
    cumquat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    kalamazoo, MI
    Posts
    6,555
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    who here would buy steel parts? i've been tempted to try and build an evader completely out of steel but switching the gears and slipper for t/b4 pieces. thing would way about 11 pounds RTR but it'd sure as hell take a beating!
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  25. #1950
    DieHarder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Grand Haven, MI
    Posts
    2,222
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback
    You mean the steel idler from the EXT2?
    If it works, take it apart, and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | SCX10 G6 | Micro BL SCT | Pulse XT 25e | Black 10 | Radian | Alias | MCX2


Page 78 of 88 FirstFirst ... 28687677787980 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:37 AM.

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.