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  1. #1976
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    I'm glad I got it wrong! It should be all about having fun, right? Glad you have a good relationship with your neighbors.
    Just a schmoe....

  2. #1977
    DieHarder's Avatar
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    ^ Was that sarcastic? lol

    Annoying neighbors is something I do. My tractor and dirt bike revving, electric guitar with windows open, loud music in the garage, and the my regular shop grinding/welding/working on stuff noise, must push my neighbors limits. I've had a comment or two, but no complaints. Everyone is too busy trying to get the township to take away the neighbor on the corner's loud pitbulls. I don't mind them, but everyone else thinks they are going to kill their dog or kid...
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  3. #1978
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    This discussion probably belongs in the Off Topic Forum, but this thread has meandered all over the place anyway.....

    Nate, I was being totally serious. There is nothing worse than having an ******* living in your neighborhood that is a constant thorn in everyone's side, and who is not only oblivious to the irritation he causes, but is indeed, defiant. People like that are only alive cuz it's illegal to shoot them. People who purposely annoy their neighbors "because it's fun" are the worst kind of people. They are called sociopaths. No feeling or compassion for their fellow human beings. Now what kind of society would we have if everyone acted like my neighbor? Not one I'D want to live in, that's for damn sure!

    The Dali Lama said, "BE the change you want to see in the world". And the Golden Rule: "Do unto others, as you would have them do unto you." I would rather live in a world of peace and harmony, respect and compassion. Unfortunatly, there are WAY too many *******s in this world.

    So, dear friends, be kind to one another. Always. It makes the world a better place.
    Just a schmoe....

  4. #1979
    Quote Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
    This discussion probably belongs in the Off Topic Forum, but this thread has meandered all over the place anyway.....

    Nate, I was being totally serious. There is nothing worse than having an ******* living in your neighborhood that is a constant thorn in everyone's side, and who is not only oblivious to the irritation he causes, but is indeed, defiant. People like that are only alive cuz it's illegal to shoot them. People who purposely annoy their neighbors "because it's fun" are the worst kind of people. They are called sociopaths. No feeling or compassion for their fellow human beings. Now what kind of society would we have if everyone acted like my neighbor? Not one I'D want to live in, that's for damn sure!

    The Dali Lama said, "BE the change you want to see in the world". And the Golden Rule: "Do unto others, as you would have them do unto you." I would rather live in a world of peace and harmony, respect and compassion. Unfortunatly, there are WAY too many *******s in this world.

    So, dear friends, be kind to one another. Always. It makes the world a better place.
    Not to be that person but I believe that was Ghandi

    love the Vader

  5. #1980
    rustyus's Avatar
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    It's been a while since my last post here. I was in the garage cleaning some bearings in my ST and was thinking of getting some spare parts (I already ordered two spare Brushless Evader Assembled Differentials and now the wait time is late July at Tower H) then I had a look in the box marked "ebay parts". I'm such a loser...I found in the box another Evader ST Pro roller!

    I was seriously thinking about selling the ST and sticking with just one brand of RC...until I opened that dang box. I guess that was a sign for me to keep on running the ST for a couple of more years or decades. If I were to get a couple of hinge pins and hubs and tie rods...I could probably build two more Evader ST/EXT roller chassis.

    I think I'm becoming a hoarder. I know some people said my mom was a hoarder with fabric (she liked to sew a lot)...I collect Associated and Duratrax Evader parts.....ahhhhhhhhhh!
    DTX Evader ST Pro -- Associated RC10B4 TK -- Associated RC10B4 FT "shelf queen"

  6. #1981
    rustyus's Avatar
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    oops
    Last edited by rustyus; 07-01-2014 at 05:46 PM. Reason: hit the post button twice
    DTX Evader ST Pro -- Associated RC10B4 TK -- Associated RC10B4 FT "shelf queen"

  7. #1982
    rustyus's Avatar
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    Thanks DieHarder for starting that "What's Your R/C Story" thread.

    I should jump in there and tell my story. It would start something like...I had this yellow van I got for Christmas. Every time you clap once, it would turn left...clap twice, it would turn right; clap again to go straight.
    DTX Evader ST Pro -- Associated RC10B4 TK -- Associated RC10B4 FT "shelf queen"

  8. #1983
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    TWO SPARE brushless diffs? Well, if you have a couple new chassis, I guess you didn't over-buy. You'll never strip the diff housing teeth, but the planetary gears inside will wear. And you can buy just the planetary gear set cheaper than the whole diff. That TrakPower gear grease will really help.

    Now that you have a metal diff gear, you NEED to use blue loktite on all eight diff screws, otherwise they will come loose, the internal gears will loose mesh, and strip out almost instantly. I would suggest taking it apart and cleaning out the screw holes, so you know that the loktite will work.

    1/8th scale RCs are supposed to be tougher than 1/12th scale stuff. You weren't running that 4S 2100kv with 6in tires on GRASS were you? That's some serious power, but 6in tires can put a tremendous strain on axles with that kind of twist.
    Just a schmoe....

  9. #1984
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    Wow! You mean to tell me those diff gears won't wear down? I know I had mine for about three years at least, and haven't changed the diff gear yet. So EXT2Rob, you don't know of anyone that has worn down the metal diff? That's reassuring. I like having back-up gear/parts for my "toys".

    That ZD Racing Truggy was a blast to drive, but my track is only about 8.5'~10' wide with lots of turns. I did run it in the grass, but mostly straight runs. Like I said before...I gave it a shot...1/8 4wd is not for me. Too big & too fast, and too expensive.
    DTX Evader ST Pro -- Associated RC10B4 TK -- Associated RC10B4 FT "shelf queen"

  10. #1985
    rustyus's Avatar
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    I know I've read it before somewhere, but the diameter of the pins inside the diff that hold the output joint are...? EXT2Rob, you cut music wire for those also?
    DTX Evader ST Pro -- Associated RC10B4 TK -- Associated RC10B4 FT "shelf queen"

  11. #1986
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    0.047" I believe. I'm just throwing this number out there because it was the first thing that came to my mind. DON'T GO AND BUY THAT SIZE AS SOON AS YOU READ THIS! LET ROB CONFIRM IT FIRST! lol I'm not 100% sure, it's just a guess.

    I haven't worn out my metal diff yet. I run it hard and it continues to hold up. I would put my money down that it will hold up to a 4-5S HARD run and do fine. You have nothing to worry about, except keeping enough grease in the gearbox. Does your diff have those little shims behind the bevel gears?
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  12. #1987
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    Ah , good thing to point out, Nate. Yes, do watch out for those little washers that are at the wide end of each little gear in the diff. Don't loose 'em.
    And you were right... 0.047 (1.19mm) for the pins behind the large gears in the diff. Good memory, dude! Wheel pin dia is 0.062 (1.57mm), BTW.

    Wear down the OUTER gear teeth on the metal diff? Never. The TOP gear in the tranny needs to be replaced every couple years of hard running, it'll get sharpened. All gears will, I guess, to some extent. But the top gear I think is the one that you just have to keep an eye on as it ages.

    I just wanted to call your attention to the gears IN the diff...that they need greasing as well as the tranny gears. Even more so. An use that TrakPower stuff, it really works better and lasts longer.

    You are right about 8th scale being expen$ive... Plus, you need a good deal of room, as you may have found out, huh? Yeah, I like the size of my Evaders and the HyperTT.
    Just a schmoe....

  13. #1988
    rustyus's Avatar
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    At night I like to read; so I'm reading the TEC Part 1. On page 40 at the moment and skimming mostly through the bulls$!t. I also just ordered RC Control Car Action (Fathers Day Special $15/year). I had the very first issue and continued the subscription up until 1990.

    Anyway, I open up to page 5 and Bam!! An ad for 2.4" rims! Now what is the performance gain using a taller rim?

    I think I liked R/C better back in the day when buggys (Sand Scorcher, 1st gen RC10s, Scorpion) looked more "scale" or realistic. Now, everything is all out of proportion. Although Short Course brought back the "realism"...1/10 scale is more like 1/8 size.

    Now that I see Kyosho is bringing back the Scorpion (re-release)...I did tell the wife if Kyosho brings back to life the Optima (my second hobby grade r/c) I'm so gonna buy one.
    DTX Evader ST Pro -- Associated RC10B4 TK -- Associated RC10B4 FT "shelf queen"

  14. #1989
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    Yep, those are the guys who do most of the more realistic looking, and tru-scale, stuff. They've been re-releasing a good number of "classic" RC cars lately. Fortunately with updates to the designs so they can handle the power of modern power systems.

    What will a taller tire get you? Higher top speed. But at the expense of more strain on the drive train. Now, going from a 2.2in to 2.4in probably isn't going to change things that much, but be aware that going to a taller tire is just like going up in gearing. So expect your motor temp to go up.

    You're a dedicated guy, slogging thru all the back pages of TEC!

    I also subscribe to RCCA. I devour each new issue in one sitting! Then go back and re-read it all more leisurely. Gotten some good tips.
    Just a schmoe....

  15. #1990
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    Quote Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
    Yep, those are the guys who do most of the more realistic looking, and tru-scale, stuff. They've been re-releasing a good number of "classic" RC cars lately. Fortunately with updates to the designs so they can handle the power of modern power systems.

    What will a taller tire get you? Higher top speed. But at the expense of more strain on the drive train. Now, going from a 2.2in to 2.4in probably isn't going to change things that much, but be aware that going to a taller tire is just like going up in gearing. So expect your motor temp to go up.

    You're a dedicated guy, slogging thru all the back pages of TEC!

    I also subscribe to RCCA. I devour each new issue in one sitting! Then go back and re-read it all more leisurely. Gotten some good tips.
    i think you are confusing kyosho with tamiya. the scorpion is their first re-release, whereas tamiya has re-released damn near every offroad model they made in the 70's and 80's. kyosho has always focused more on racing.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  16. #1991
    DieHarder's Avatar
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    I believe the shims are behind the bevel gears (large gears) between the backside of the gear and the side plate of the diff, instead of behind the spider gears (small gears) between the backside of the gear and the outer diff gear (There are washers back there, but not special diff shims).

    I'm collecting parts now as I finally have the $$$ to get the Evader going. A couple upgrades are on the way. I the grease I use in my tranny and diff comes from my neighbor's workplace where when they order a new bearing (BIG bearings) it comes with an EXTRA tube of grease while the bearing is pre-greased. They normally throw the extra tubes out, but my neighbor grabs a few here and there and gives some to me, then uses some for his HPI Savage, which is on craigslist: http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/bar/4527733732.html I've seen it run. It's crazy. It's like full aluminum and steel drivetrain/tranny. Awesome unit and weighs about 20lbs.


    2.4" wheels I would expect to have high prices on any tires for them IF you can even find them. Maybe I'm wrong, not sure. My tires stand 5" tall on 2.2" rims, so I'm sure I'm putting a load on the drivetrain! lol
    Quote Originally Posted by EXT2Rob View Post
    Ah , good thing to point out, Nate. Yes, do watch out for those little washers that are at the wide end of each little gear in the diff. Don't loose 'em.
    And you were right... 0.047 (1.19mm) for the pins behind the large gears in the diff. Good memory, dude! Wheel pin dia is 0.062 (1.57mm), BTW.

    Wear down the OUTER gear teeth on the metal diff? Never. The TOP gear in the tranny needs to be replaced every couple years of hard running, it'll get sharpened. All gears will, I guess, to some extent. But the top gear I think is the one that you just have to keep an eye on as it ages.

    I just wanted to call your attention to the gears IN the diff...that they need greasing as well as the tranny gears. Even more so. An use that TrakPower stuff, it really works better and lasts longer.

    You are right about 8th scale being expen$ive... Plus, you need a good deal of room, as you may have found out, huh? Yeah, I like the size of my Evaders and the HyperTT.
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  17. #1992
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    Shims behind the large gears in the diff? Um...I don't think so.... Well, I guess you could call that washer-insert thing a shim....hadn't thought of it that way. More of a shield, wouldn't you say?
    Just a schmoe....

  18. #1993
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    wheels, ball cups

    I was trying to say how the hobby has evolved with that ad for 2.4" buggy rims. The big thing in 1989/1990 was going from 1.6" rims to 1.9" rims on the "stealth " transmission RC10 (#6035) and those were 3 piece rims.

    Ok, so now I was inspecting my ST for any loose "stuff" and I just realized how much slop/play is my steering. Also, there is quite a noticeable amount of play in the graphite arms and ball cups...heck...anywhere there is a hinge I can see more play in the parts. For an eight year old Duratrax truck, I'd say that's pretty darn good run at never changing the suspension/steering components.

    Has anyone just replaced the ball cups and not the ball studs? Do you think ball studs "wear out" , or just the ball cups wear out, or both? One wears out more than the other?
    DTX Evader ST Pro -- Associated RC10B4 TK -- Associated RC10B4 FT "shelf queen"

  19. #1994
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    Out of all the spare parts I have...no ball cups to be found! (face-palm)

    Don't quote me on the rim sizes from my last post. I was just trying to get a point across how things change over time.
    DTX Evader ST Pro -- Associated RC10B4 TK -- Associated RC10B4 FT "shelf queen"

  20. #1995
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    funny thing about those 3 piece rims, if i'm not mistaken, they were effectively beadlocks!
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  21. #1996
    EXT2Rob's Avatar
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    Yeah Rusty, both ball cups AND studs can wear, and need replacing once in a while. The steering on the 'vader is notoriously sloppy. You can tighten it up a little, by replacing every stud and cup between the servo and the wheels. The Vader uses a fairly standard size ball cup, RPM makes good ones.

    I've also had to replace a-arms over time. Like you said, anywhere there's a hinge.
    Just a schmoe....

  22. #1997
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    i've decided i'm going to do it. as soon as i get about $150 i'm going to order some steel to make an all steel evader.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  23. #1998
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    Rusty- Didn't mean to point out a mistake like that like I did. Who knows, there might be some 2.4"rims. It's just that when reading your post, the first thing I saw was a number and realized it wasn't a wheel size I'd heard of. I started focusing on that mistake vs the rest of your post. My apologies.


    I just replaced the ball cups on my evader and it's still a little loose. Do yourself a favor and do the studs while your at it. You'll be happy you did.
    If it works, take it apart and find out why.

    Evader ST | TL-01 MT | Micro BL SCT | Radian | Alias | MCX2

  24. #1999
    cumquat's Avatar
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    those 2.4" wheels and tires are beadless. same tire outer diameter as standard 2.2" stuff. they are for racing buggies. http://prolineracing.com/index.php?p...+tires&x=0&y=0 they should reduce rotational mass as plastic is lighter than rubber in most instances.
    Last edited by cumquat; 07-06-2014 at 08:11 AM.
    HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

  25. #2000
    rustyus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cumquat View Post
    i've decided i'm going to do it. as soon as i get about $150 i'm going to order some steel to make an all steel evader.
    "all steel"....chassis? How thick of steel are you gonna use?

    I'd love to see ya make it happen[laughing]...that's what she said.

    Yeah, I wish I had access to some sort of fabrication machinery. I would love to make some steel rear arm suspension mounts for the Evader ST Pros.

    Back in the day, my one buddy raced strictly dirt oval modifieds. He took a STOP sign; cut it, and drilled all these holes in it (to make it lighter i guess) and mounted a Kyosho Raider gearbox and suspension/steering to the hacked-up Stop sign. That thing would just stick to the inside of the track while others were trying to straighten themselves out with so much power and speed. One driver at a time he would pass; making his way to the leader, and wining almost every heat/main. Everyone was in such disbelief when my buddy would pop off the body. You would hear, "What the !?"... or..."What contraption is THAT?" I never got tired of seeing people's reactions every week.

    I think my buddy is the one who came up with the saying, "If it aint broke, leave it alone." That Raider gearbox had an opening on it that my buddy dumped whatever lube he had on hand into it...Vaseline...black grease, chunks of Chap Stick (original black label)....I laughed so hard one night he whips out a tub of Crisco!

    Sorry I got off topic...back to TEC....Steelvader.
    DTX Evader ST Pro -- Associated RC10B4 TK -- Associated RC10B4 FT "shelf queen"


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