The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
11-28-2011, 05:38 PM
#51
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
an upgraded servo is really needed for anything more than stock power in all honesty...
as far as nihm's getting hot, all mine did under decent power...
the lug
as far as nihm's getting hot, all mine did under decent power...
the lug
11-28-2011, 05:52 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Ok dont mean to blow up this thread with all kinds of posts but i just had an idea, maybe i should not ask for this here v (mods feel free to delete IF need be) but im in need of some help to complete a second evader i have. I purchased a complete chassis minus shocks andsometrans parts as well as rear wheels and tires that i would like to piece together for my girlfriends mildly retarded 11yr old son. I have all the parts IN the trans however im missing parts from the OUTSIDE of the trans.
I Need:
I Need:
- [*]Motor plate[*]Outer part of the slipper/slipper set[*]slipper nut spring and washers and pad[*]rear wheels and tires - i dont care how bald if they are useable[/list]I would be ever so greatfull if anyone has any of these parts laying around in thier tool/junk box that they could donate to the cause, I have absolutley NO funds to put into this (seeing as im over 3yrs unemployed right now) but i figure what a great Xmas present this would be for him as well as a great project for me to teach him how to drive and controll it as well as fix it up,, I will gladly send photos of him and the truck when i get it completed if you donate parts (for proof im not just looking for a freebie) and i will scrape up whatever the shipping costs are so it wont cost you anything to send me old stuff you no longer need or use. Feel free to PM Me.
And again Mods if this is a no no then please delete however do not forget that it could make one child not so happy this xmas lol
Rock on and Happy Holidays to all!
11-28-2011, 07:45 PM
#53
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: JRockZ
Nimh Batteries always get hot,, if yours are getting super hot like to hot to touch then something is wrong but a 9T motor will draw and suck out that charge fast so that is probably why your getting the hot batteries. As i said in an above post the eveder will not turn well when your on the throttle as it is pushing the front wheels, try moving your battery further forward IFyou can and or do as i do and set yourself up when your coming into a turn and tap the brake then use the throttle to pull you out of your slide.
Good Luck with it!
ORIGINAL: dragon2k2
im having a steering problem. The truck will not turn when ever im on the throttle, could it be the battery or something else? im also having problem with my batters getting way to HOT. Im running a duratrax 8t esc with a speedgems 9t motor. the motor and speed controller NEVER get hot only the battery.
im having a steering problem. The truck will not turn when ever im on the throttle, could it be the battery or something else? im also having problem with my batters getting way to HOT. Im running a duratrax 8t esc with a speedgems 9t motor. the motor and speed controller NEVER get hot only the battery.
Good Luck with it!
11-29-2011, 04:51 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey guys, I came across a 15 bucks i can spend, i read somewhere but cant find it now that the Nitro Evader 60T 32 pitch spur will work on the evader ext2, i remember reading it is a tight fit but it will fit,,, so i have the nitro evader 60T spur awaiting on ebay however not sure what pinionsize i should go with,,,,, My EXT2 right now has the traxxas velineon system on it and im running a 90T (or maybe its 91T) spur with a 20T pinion and its just about perfect no high temps good overall power and so far no stripped diff so i want to keep the gearing ratio close to how it is but i forsure want to go up to the larger toothed 32P gears. Im horrible with math and or ratios so some help here would be mucho appreciated!!
11-29-2011, 06:46 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
http://radiocontrolforums.com/forum/...ic=577.new#new
that thread a bunch of great stuff like....
http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/gear_calc.html
using the 90t 48p spur, you can find the dia of that, then use that dia to find the equivlent in 32p which is 59t, so the closest of the 2 32p spurs (56t and 60t) is going to be the 60t
then to find your pinion, you find your gear ratio... so lets go for 20/90, which is going to be .2222 then you mulitiply 60 by .2222 and you get 13.333 for the same ratio, also if you use the same method as above by finding the gear dia, and converting that way, you can find that a 20t 48p pinion is equal to a 13t 32p pinion so to get as close to the same ratio you'll need a 13t pinion with the 60t spur,
that sounds on the low side as far as gear ratio's go, but if it works i'd run that, and keep it there until that steel diff comes out, then start bumping things up...
the lug
that thread a bunch of great stuff like....
http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/gear_calc.html
using the 90t 48p spur, you can find the dia of that, then use that dia to find the equivlent in 32p which is 59t, so the closest of the 2 32p spurs (56t and 60t) is going to be the 60t
then to find your pinion, you find your gear ratio... so lets go for 20/90, which is going to be .2222 then you mulitiply 60 by .2222 and you get 13.333 for the same ratio, also if you use the same method as above by finding the gear dia, and converting that way, you can find that a 20t 48p pinion is equal to a 13t 32p pinion so to get as close to the same ratio you'll need a 13t pinion with the 60t spur,
that sounds on the low side as far as gear ratio's go, but if it works i'd run that, and keep it there until that steel diff comes out, then start bumping things up...
the lug
11-29-2011, 07:14 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
http://radiocontrolforums.com/forum/...ic=577.new#new
that thread a bunch of great stuff like....
http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/gear_calc.html
using the 90t 48p spur, you can find the dia of that, then use that dia to find the equivlent in 32p which is 59t, so the closest of the 2 32p spurs (56t and 60t) is going to be the 60t
then to find your pinion, you find your gear ratio... so lets go for 20/90, which is going to be .2222 then you mulitiply 60 by .2222 and you get 13.333 for the same ratio, also if you use the same method as above by finding the gear dia, and converting that way, you can find that a 20t 48p pinion is equal to a 13t 32p pinion so to get as close to the same ratio you'll need a 13t pinion with the 60t spur,
that sounds on the low side as far as gear ratio's go, but if it works i'd run that, and keep it there until that steel diff comes out, then start bumping things up...
the lug
http://radiocontrolforums.com/forum/...ic=577.new#new
that thread a bunch of great stuff like....
http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/gear_calc.html
using the 90t 48p spur, you can find the dia of that, then use that dia to find the equivlent in 32p which is 59t, so the closest of the 2 32p spurs (56t and 60t) is going to be the 60t
then to find your pinion, you find your gear ratio... so lets go for 20/90, which is going to be .2222 then you mulitiply 60 by .2222 and you get 13.333 for the same ratio, also if you use the same method as above by finding the gear dia, and converting that way, you can find that a 20t 48p pinion is equal to a 13t 32p pinion so to get as close to the same ratio you'll need a 13t pinion with the 60t spur,
that sounds on the low side as far as gear ratio's go, but if it works i'd run that, and keep it there until that steel diff comes out, then start bumping things up...
the lug
Cool man!! Thanks for the math lol and the offer of parts so far looks like i'll need most but i got the motorplate i need when i ordered the 60T gear today.
12-03-2011, 06:09 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I got my Nitro Evader Gear today and ran up to the LHS and spent the last of my change on a 15T pinion got it all together and all went well!! its pouring rain out so no chance of running it tonight but i did do a few in house wheelies and burnouts and it seems to be a great mod,,, my lexan gear cover was shot ahwile ago,,, with this mod now i wont really need it or so i hope anyhow.
12-08-2011, 02:55 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
My wife, her family, and me went on a little trip this past weekend and i decided to take the evader and see if i could find a good spot to run it[8D]
My father in law brought his brand new Losi Desert Truck(didnt even have time to run it before we left). We found a good spot to jump out in the back parking lot of the hotel by a creek and ran for about 2 hours total back there over the weekend. Then, our hotel room was pretty large since it was a 3 bedroom room. It had a couch and quite a bit of floor space, so we were racing and playing with them in the room for about an hour. The evader even with stock suspension and tires is a carpet machine. It handles like its on rails. The desert truck would drift around the turns, but the evader would turn under power without getting loose in the rear or under steering. I was surprised at the difference between the two.
Sadly, i noticed as we were running it around the room that it was starting to get rough sounding in the transmission. It made it through the night but i pulled it apart now that we're home and the top gear and diff gear need to be replaced again as the teeth on both are wearing down. I guess i have ran it about 5-6 hours since the last transmission rebuild, so it seems to need to be rebuilt every 6 hours or so. I had the slipper set good (no wheelies even on carpet with no wheel spin), its just that the gears cant handle the pressure. I hadnt sheared any teeth yet, but it would have happened soon enough. The rest of the truck holds up awesome after you put on the longer ball studs backed with a nut. I nailed a concrete parking stop hard with the left front a-arm and it didnt really even make a mark, and didnt break anything. I was surprised because i hit it pretty hard.
As of right now, im torn on this truck. I really like how it handles, the suspension works well, stock tires arent bad (they last a while), and the truck itself is very durable. However, the transmisson just will not handle brushless at the moment. By the middle of this month, the brushless gears are supposed to be out. Im not sure what im going to do about this truck. I thought about selling the evader and keeping my T4 since it is a nicer truck with more support, or i can dump another $20-25 into the transmission on the evader and hope the new gears hold up. I could keep both the t4 and evader... Just would like to downsize a little instead of keeping on adding to my "collection". lol
The bottom line for me though, is that Duratrax has a great truck in the Evader EXT2, minus the transmission that cant reliably handle brushless long term. If they have that fixed in the new evader brushless and include those parts on the regular EXT2, it will be a very hard truck to beat for the money.
My father in law brought his brand new Losi Desert Truck(didnt even have time to run it before we left). We found a good spot to jump out in the back parking lot of the hotel by a creek and ran for about 2 hours total back there over the weekend. Then, our hotel room was pretty large since it was a 3 bedroom room. It had a couch and quite a bit of floor space, so we were racing and playing with them in the room for about an hour. The evader even with stock suspension and tires is a carpet machine. It handles like its on rails. The desert truck would drift around the turns, but the evader would turn under power without getting loose in the rear or under steering. I was surprised at the difference between the two.
Sadly, i noticed as we were running it around the room that it was starting to get rough sounding in the transmission. It made it through the night but i pulled it apart now that we're home and the top gear and diff gear need to be replaced again as the teeth on both are wearing down. I guess i have ran it about 5-6 hours since the last transmission rebuild, so it seems to need to be rebuilt every 6 hours or so. I had the slipper set good (no wheelies even on carpet with no wheel spin), its just that the gears cant handle the pressure. I hadnt sheared any teeth yet, but it would have happened soon enough. The rest of the truck holds up awesome after you put on the longer ball studs backed with a nut. I nailed a concrete parking stop hard with the left front a-arm and it didnt really even make a mark, and didnt break anything. I was surprised because i hit it pretty hard.
As of right now, im torn on this truck. I really like how it handles, the suspension works well, stock tires arent bad (they last a while), and the truck itself is very durable. However, the transmisson just will not handle brushless at the moment. By the middle of this month, the brushless gears are supposed to be out. Im not sure what im going to do about this truck. I thought about selling the evader and keeping my T4 since it is a nicer truck with more support, or i can dump another $20-25 into the transmission on the evader and hope the new gears hold up. I could keep both the t4 and evader... Just would like to downsize a little instead of keeping on adding to my "collection". lol
The bottom line for me though, is that Duratrax has a great truck in the Evader EXT2, minus the transmission that cant reliably handle brushless long term. If they have that fixed in the new evader brushless and include those parts on the regular EXT2, it will be a very hard truck to beat for the money.
12-08-2011, 07:36 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
cummins driverI totally agree with you it is a very durable truck, my first trans got me a little over a month with the stock electronics and TONSof bashing!! Then i added a Velineon system and i was surprized how well the diff gear held up, i probably ran 20-30 packs through it (mind you i only have 8.4V nimh's),,, And it may have even lasted longer however my slipper started loosening up on me and i wound up having to run it tight,,, only took about 10 wheelies till i heard the diff gear clicking, actually it was kind of cool the sound it made made it sound like it had a real engine in it for a little bit.
I knew the diff ripped but i was able to finish running the pack dead by being light on the trigger and gradually picking up speed.
I then took everything apart added a new difff outer case that i found at a LHS for 50 cents lol. Once i got it all back together it was sweet but started grinding again right away, when i took it apart again i was surprised to find that the gears were still good but the Topshaft gear and the idler gear were getting really pointy and sharp so i just went ahead and replaced everything, turned out one of my wheel pins got bent and was ruining the back side of my wheel like a bananna in a blender!! That was an ez fix and all is well now sept the slipper, i replaced it with one from an electrix and it seems to be good again.
I too am Deffinatley looking fwd to the new brushless parts myself i just hope i can get some in the first go round but moneys tight and im not sure i will be able to b4 they sell out,, dang whats taking them so long!! LOL
oh yeah ive had my evader about 3-4months now why do you need the longer ball studs for? ive only had one rip out so far and that was my fault but screwing it back in fixed it and its been fine since
JRockZ!
I knew the diff ripped but i was able to finish running the pack dead by being light on the trigger and gradually picking up speed.
I then took everything apart added a new difff outer case that i found at a LHS for 50 cents lol. Once i got it all back together it was sweet but started grinding again right away, when i took it apart again i was surprised to find that the gears were still good but the Topshaft gear and the idler gear were getting really pointy and sharp so i just went ahead and replaced everything, turned out one of my wheel pins got bent and was ruining the back side of my wheel like a bananna in a blender!! That was an ez fix and all is well now sept the slipper, i replaced it with one from an electrix and it seems to be good again.
I too am Deffinatley looking fwd to the new brushless parts myself i just hope i can get some in the first go round but moneys tight and im not sure i will be able to b4 they sell out,, dang whats taking them so long!! LOL
oh yeah ive had my evader about 3-4months now why do you need the longer ball studs for? ive only had one rip out so far and that was my fault but screwing it back in fixed it and its been fine since
JRockZ!
12-08-2011, 07:43 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
i wouldn't be surprised it you backorded some of those parts they're shipping at this point or will be soon, i got the SW right when it came out, and it was back ordered until aug, and i ordered it in late june, however i got mine mid july even tho i had been checking the stock status almost daily to see when they had them... so if you do place a back order, the back ordered parts will ship before they're "in stock" if they have more backorders than parts... thats worded awkwardly... but yeah.... i'm gunna wait till i actually have $ before picking up parts, may see if i can score a tranny off ebay kinda thing...
the lug
the lug
12-08-2011, 08:53 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey guys, im looking through the manual and i noticed this What are these two parts and where are these washers?? Im looking all over my evader but not figuring it out,, Rear Hub carriers? I havent pulled a wheel off to look close but from what i can see in there it doesnt look like this.
12-08-2011, 09:25 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
you'll be able to see them once you pull off the wheel, when you pull out the rear hinge pin, they'll fall out...
the lug
the lug
12-10-2011, 09:38 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I have had pretty good luck with the plastic diff gear however i do want to get one or two of the metal gears once the new Brushless Evader comes out and the parts are released,, Anyone knowwhats going to be the best fastest way to get the new brushless evader gear,,, i seem to be watching duratrax website and im just now wondering if i should be looking else where or if i should just order at my LHS now if they can/will do that???
Ideas???
Ideas???
12-10-2011, 09:59 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
www.towerhobbies.com has everything, you could get the part #'s from the exploded view of the BL on DTX's website...
and your LHS should be able to b/c they'd be ordering thru greatplanes distributors if they have DTX stuff, which is the company that tower is run by....
the lug
and your LHS should be able to b/c they'd be ordering thru greatplanes distributors if they have DTX stuff, which is the company that tower is run by....
the lug
12-10-2011, 10:35 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: rclugnut10
www.towerhobbies.com has everything, you could get the part #'s from the exploded view of the BL on DTX's website...
and your LHS should be able to b/c they'd be ordering thru greatplanes distributors if they have DTX stuff, which is the company that tower is run by....
the lug
www.towerhobbies.com has everything, you could get the part #'s from the exploded view of the BL on DTX's website...
and your LHS should be able to b/c they'd be ordering thru greatplanes distributors if they have DTX stuff, which is the company that tower is run by....
the lug
| Stock Status |
| (Estimated) Mid Dec |
What im saying is if they release the parts tomorrow on the 12th will i also be able to order them,, form tower/lhs or what not?
I'll have the LHS order em i guess.
12-11-2011, 07:16 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
CumminsDriver -Got a question to you and whomever else may want to chime in.
I've worked most, if not all problemsout on my EXT (2008 model)
Tranny is bullet proof, I grafted an RC10B4 tranny into it. . . aluminum shocks, RPM wheels, proline tires, bearing, hi torque servo, brushless, lipo etc etc. . you get the pic . . . I've spent a lot of time and a few dollars on this truck.
It has not broken on me for a while now, and it goes like a scalded cat. It's also my first hobby grade RC.
I believe in one of your posts, you said you got an RC104.1. I have seen the rollers on Ebay. Brand new $138. I am intrigued. How much better is this truck REALLY than an EXT?
I'm not unhappy with the EXT. The RC10 looks easier to work on (steering), looks more sexy. My guess is the shocks are better than what Ihave . .
Thoughts?
Thanks
NTR
I've worked most, if not all problemsout on my EXT (2008 model)
Tranny is bullet proof, I grafted an RC10B4 tranny into it. . . aluminum shocks, RPM wheels, proline tires, bearing, hi torque servo, brushless, lipo etc etc. . you get the pic . . . I've spent a lot of time and a few dollars on this truck.
It has not broken on me for a while now, and it goes like a scalded cat. It's also my first hobby grade RC.
I believe in one of your posts, you said you got an RC104.1. I have seen the rollers on Ebay. Brand new $138. I am intrigued. How much better is this truck REALLY than an EXT?
I'm not unhappy with the EXT. The RC10 looks easier to work on (steering), looks more sexy. My guess is the shocks are better than what Ihave . .
Thoughts?
Thanks
NTR
12-11-2011, 07:24 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
i had a B4 for a while and i really regret selling it... i wish i hadn't, i would say it was a better truck than the evader very easy to work on, durable and didn't have any of the problmes that the evaders have, and it drove really nice... i'd love to pick up a t4.1 at some point... but the evaders are a quality truck but if i were to buy another 1/10 2wd st it'd be a T4 cuz a 3rd never hurts 1/10 st never hurts...
the lug
the lug
12-12-2011, 07:50 PM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Heck - I figure for the money and time I put into my EXT Iprobably could have gotten a 4.1. The vader drives pretty good. It's got a lot of time on it now and it lacks theat "fresh feeling".I could probably replace some stuffand get that back. The shock eyes seem to get loose. . I've just been real impressed with Associated bc of that tranny I swappedinto my vader.With a 32KV motor, I can run the slipper tight and do wheelies all day. No problems, not one rebuild yet.I was thinking that the rest of the truck would be real nice.
NTR
NTR
12-13-2011, 12:23 AM
#71
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
So what do you mean, exactly about "grafting" a B4 tranny onto the vader? I've read Lug's description of the project, but since Inever saw pictures, Icould never really visualise the details. The B4 doesnt use a gear diff, but a ball dif, right? There was something about Lug's description of the diff adjustment that put me off the idea of doing it myself.
I have had very little issues with my tranny lately, even running a 5600kv SW, until Ichanged from Dirt Hawg IIs to Gladiators. Hoo boy! Did the Glads make the car controlable again! But it wasn't long before I stripped a gear INSIDE the diff! Ifixed that, but Imust;ve had the slipper too tight and I stripped the diff gear. Itoo would like to try the new metal-gear diff.
The Gladiators are a superior tire for the vader if yer running in dirt and running fast. The Dirt Hawgs balooned-up too much and were too soft. The Glads are stiffer in the sidewalls and tread and don't balloon up like dragster slicks.
I have had very little issues with my tranny lately, even running a 5600kv SW, until Ichanged from Dirt Hawg IIs to Gladiators. Hoo boy! Did the Glads make the car controlable again! But it wasn't long before I stripped a gear INSIDE the diff! Ifixed that, but Imust;ve had the slipper too tight and I stripped the diff gear. Itoo would like to try the new metal-gear diff.
The Gladiators are a superior tire for the vader if yer running in dirt and running fast. The Dirt Hawgs balooned-up too much and were too soft. The Glads are stiffer in the sidewalls and tread and don't balloon up like dragster slicks.
12-13-2011, 10:06 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
For those that are wanting the new Brushless Evader i see today Tower has a limited quanity in stock http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=LXBLNP**&P=ML
12-13-2011, 10:58 AM
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey Guys, how's it going. Long time no see.
I'm not sure if he did the same thing as I did, but a while back I put an RC10T4.1/B4.1/SC10 (which has a gear diff instead of the ball diff) trans in my Evader ST (which I have also been working on converting into a SCT for quite some time. It was fairly simple, All that was really needed was a little modification with the transmission mounts (at the bottom of the chassis as well as the trans mount attached to the shock tower).
Check my pictures if you want to see what I did.
http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/i...mission%20Mod/
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
So what do you mean, exactly about ''grafting'' a B4 tranny onto the vader? I've read Lug's description of the project, but since I never saw pictures, I could never really visualise the details. The B4 doesnt use a gear diff, but a ball dif, right? There was something about Lug's description of the diff adjustment that put me off the idea of doing it myself.
I have had very little issues with my tranny lately, even running a 5600kv SW, until I changed from Dirt Hawg IIs to Gladiators. Hoo boy! Did the Glads make the car controlable again! But it wasn't long before I stripped a gear INSIDE the diff! I fixed that, but I must;ve had the slipper too tight and I stripped the diff gear. I too would like to try the new metal-gear diff.
The Gladiators are a superior tire for the vader if yer running in dirt and running fast. The Dirt Hawgs balooned-up too much and were too soft. The Glads are stiffer in the sidewalls and tread and don't balloon up like dragster slicks.
So what do you mean, exactly about ''grafting'' a B4 tranny onto the vader? I've read Lug's description of the project, but since I never saw pictures, I could never really visualise the details. The B4 doesnt use a gear diff, but a ball dif, right? There was something about Lug's description of the diff adjustment that put me off the idea of doing it myself.
I have had very little issues with my tranny lately, even running a 5600kv SW, until I changed from Dirt Hawg IIs to Gladiators. Hoo boy! Did the Glads make the car controlable again! But it wasn't long before I stripped a gear INSIDE the diff! I fixed that, but I must;ve had the slipper too tight and I stripped the diff gear. I too would like to try the new metal-gear diff.
The Gladiators are a superior tire for the vader if yer running in dirt and running fast. The Dirt Hawgs balooned-up too much and were too soft. The Glads are stiffer in the sidewalls and tread and don't balloon up like dragster slicks.
Check my pictures if you want to see what I did.
http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/i...mission%20Mod/
12-13-2011, 06:21 PM
#74
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I bought a T4/B4 ball diff off ofebay.For my job, I ditched the whole DTXtranny mount, got a piece of nylon from a cutting board and fabbed anew one. The reason I ditchedthe DTX mount was that there was nothing really to hook the associated tranny to.The new tranny mount hooks up exactly how the DTX mount hooked.
The backmounts on the associated tranny are not a perfect match for the dtx motor plate, but some careful dremelworkfixed that.
Looks a little funny, but it's held upgood. I've seen the pics of Pede's mods and they look pretty good too. When / ifmy solution fails I'd probably consider his.
The gear diffs are sold bc they require less maint. than balls. The ball diff has worked fine for mine. Just have to tighten it every now and then.
Don't know how it would hold up with a really powerful motor, but it's been fine with my 32KV Tacon.
Pics of my mods are on Lug's site I believe .
The backmounts on the associated tranny are not a perfect match for the dtx motor plate, but some careful dremelworkfixed that.
Looks a little funny, but it's held upgood. I've seen the pics of Pede's mods and they look pretty good too. When / ifmy solution fails I'd probably consider his.
The gear diffs are sold bc they require less maint. than balls. The ball diff has worked fine for mine. Just have to tighten it every now and then.
Don't know how it would hold up with a really powerful motor, but it's been fine with my 32KV Tacon.
Pics of my mods are on Lug's site I believe .
ORIGINAL: pede_187
Hey Guys, how's it going. Long time no see.
I'm not sure if he did the same thing as I did, but a while back I put an RC10T4.1/B4.1/SC10 (which has a gear diff instead of the ball diff) trans in my Evader ST (which I have also been working on converting into a SCT for quite some time. It was fairly simple, All that was really needed was a little modification with the transmission mounts (at the bottom of the chassis as well as the trans mount attached to the shock tower).
Check my pictures if you want to see what I did.
http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/i...mission%20Mod/
Hey Guys, how's it going. Long time no see.
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
So what do you mean, exactly about ''grafting'' a B4 tranny onto the vader? I've read Lug's description of the project, but since Inever saw pictures, Icould never really visualise the details. The B4 doesnt use a gear diff, but a ball dif, right? There was something about Lug's description of the diff adjustment that put me off the idea of doing it myself.
I have had very little issues with my tranny lately, even running a 5600kv SW, until Ichanged from Dirt Hawg IIs to Gladiators. Hoo boy! Did the Glads make the car controlable again! But it wasn't long before I stripped a gear INSIDE the diff! Ifixed that, but Imust;ve had the slipper too tight and I stripped the diff gear. Itoo would like to try the new metal-gear diff.
The Gladiators are a superior tire for the vader if yer running in dirt and running fast. The Dirt Hawgs balooned-up too much and were too soft. The Glads are stiffer in the sidewalls and tread and don't balloon up like dragster slicks.
So what do you mean, exactly about ''grafting'' a B4 tranny onto the vader? I've read Lug's description of the project, but since Inever saw pictures, Icould never really visualise the details. The B4 doesnt use a gear diff, but a ball dif, right? There was something about Lug's description of the diff adjustment that put me off the idea of doing it myself.
I have had very little issues with my tranny lately, even running a 5600kv SW, until Ichanged from Dirt Hawg IIs to Gladiators. Hoo boy! Did the Glads make the car controlable again! But it wasn't long before I stripped a gear INSIDE the diff! Ifixed that, but Imust;ve had the slipper too tight and I stripped the diff gear. Itoo would like to try the new metal-gear diff.
The Gladiators are a superior tire for the vader if yer running in dirt and running fast. The Dirt Hawgs balooned-up too much and were too soft. The Glads are stiffer in the sidewalls and tread and don't balloon up like dragster slicks.
Check my pictures if you want to see what I did.
http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/i...mission%20Mod/
12-13-2011, 06:26 PM
#75
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Join Date: Apr 2011
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
See my "grafting" desc on my prior post.
I like the RPM revolvers with the Proline Calibers. (It's a pin tire)
I like the RPM revolvers with the Proline Calibers. (It's a pin tire)
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
So what do you mean, exactly about "grafting" a B4 tranny onto the vader? I've read Lug's description of the project, but since Inever saw pictures, Icould never really visualise the details. The B4 doesnt use a gear diff, but a ball dif, right? There was something about Lug's description of the diff adjustment that put me off the idea of doing it myself.
I have had very little issues with my tranny lately, even running a 5600kv SW, until Ichanged from Dirt Hawg IIs to Gladiators. Hoo boy! Did the Glads make the car controlable again! But it wasn't long before I stripped a gear INSIDE the diff! Ifixed that, but Imust;ve had the slipper too tight and I stripped the diff gear. Itoo would like to try the new metal-gear diff.
The Gladiators are a superior tire for the vader if yer running in dirt and running fast. The Dirt Hawgs balooned-up too much and were too soft. The Glads are stiffer in the sidewalls and tread and don't balloon up like dragster slicks.
So what do you mean, exactly about "grafting" a B4 tranny onto the vader? I've read Lug's description of the project, but since Inever saw pictures, Icould never really visualise the details. The B4 doesnt use a gear diff, but a ball dif, right? There was something about Lug's description of the diff adjustment that put me off the idea of doing it myself.
I have had very little issues with my tranny lately, even running a 5600kv SW, until Ichanged from Dirt Hawg IIs to Gladiators. Hoo boy! Did the Glads make the car controlable again! But it wasn't long before I stripped a gear INSIDE the diff! Ifixed that, but Imust;ve had the slipper too tight and I stripped the diff gear. Itoo would like to try the new metal-gear diff.
The Gladiators are a superior tire for the vader if yer running in dirt and running fast. The Dirt Hawgs balooned-up too much and were too soft. The Glads are stiffer in the sidewalls and tread and don't balloon up like dragster slicks.