rclugnut10

My Feedback: (1)

I forget what the story on the XXT vs evader is i know they are really close i forget if dtx bought the design and them modified it or what, but from what i've heard i wouldn't be surprised if they do share some parts.

bcredneck

after more research the front arms and shock tower are perfect copys the rest looks alot like the losi lxt witch is good the xxt was my favorite truck till my full graphite xxt with period novak esc and reddy mod motor got stolen after 3 years of finding all the graphite parts and matt francis chassis i could almost build one with the leftover plastic parts but i dont have a tranny cvds body or wheels

DudaDude

Once I get my first check (another week) I will be upgrading this **** out of my Evader. The job site I'm on is all dirt and has some nice dirt bumps...so I gotta replace my rear shock tower, New rims/tires, and gonna go brushless.

DieHarder

BL FTW!

There's many BL systems out there, and depending on who you talk to on here, you'll get a different opinion from each person....

Psst... http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-1410-3800kV

Or this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Combo-3900kV

DudaDude

I can get a brushless 4000kv from hobby king for way cheaper. I posted it a few pages back

funkybunch

I just bought an evader ext2 from a thrift shop for 50 bucks with 2 3000 mah batteries. It had some issues but so far all that I found that needs replacing is the spur gear and the pinion gear was missing the set screw. My local hobby shop ordered me a new spur gear cost 4 bucks or so. but they had the set screw and after putting that in it seems to run ok havent bothered trying it outside till i get a new spur gear but I was wondering is there a brushless setup for this i can purchase that wont force me to also upgrade the tranny gears. Im not gonna lie i feel a little daunted by the prospect of doing all of that to it but I can add a new motor esc and battery with no problem

DudaDude

Just upgrade the tranny case along with all metal gears. It's worth it. Plus with a stronger motor your bound to strip the plastic gears a lot faster. I disabled my slipper clutch so my thing takes off fast (stock motor and esc) so I can't wait till I get a better motor to see what it's capable of

DudaDude

Motor and ESC I plan on getting
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...000KV_80A.html

DudaDude

Also whats the best All terrain tire? Something a tad bigger than than 2.2". and spoked rims to fit said tires.

DieHarder

Hmm.... 80A/95A ESC? Not enough for me. 200A/320A in my Evader, Yo! WHOO HOO! LOL

I'm finding the best all-terrain tire to be the Badlands: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTYP0&P=7 I really like them. They wear slowly, but have an amazing amount of grip. They are hard on your spur/tranny though, but with a metal tranny, you should be set. But with the right motor in there, it will shred spurs like you do junk mail. It can get costly and time consuming having to put a new one in every other run. I'm going for a 32P steel spur this spring to avoid the problem. I will update you guys on how it works out.

Welcome FunkyBunch! Sorry to have to break it to ya, but a metal tranny is like the only way to run brushless without stripping your diff. You might be able to try a small 35A Hobby Wing setup for $75: http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html But I can almost guarantee that your diff will strip. So yeah, if you plan to keep your Evader, then upgrading the tranny is probably the best option, and be one of the first things you should have on the upgrade list...

cumquat

i ran brushless with little issue with the stock ext2 trans. it'll be fine for at least 2 months of daily running. dieharder inadvertently said why he blew through the trans, he's running way too much power. i rarely stripped a spur and the reason i stripped the diff is because the idler was sharpened by the topshaft, which comes from running 20-50 minutes a day every day for 2 months straight. i was running a 4000kv 60A system on 2s. the system dudadude linked should work for a while, provided that the gears arent already worn. while the esc is capable of 80 amps, the motor has a constant of 45 and a peak of 55, which is approximately half the power of dieharder's system (no 540 motor draws much more than 100 amps without damage. prove me wrong and i'll give you a cookie).

DieHarder

It's a large 540, and yes you are correct. If you read, I was comparing ESCs, not motor draw. A 200/320 ESC allows me to run a giant motor. I can check current draw from the motor tonight....

DieHarder

Ok, I checked since I had time and really want that cookie. The motor will pull 65A continuous and 100A Peak. So really, it does pull more than 100A. If you think about it, if it's hitting 100A, then it must be SOME tiny decimal over 100A, thus it pulls MORE than 100A, right? Thus you owe me a cookie.

cumquat

i said MUCH more. no cookie for you!

DieHarder

Aw shucks.... LOL

Don't make it sound as if I don't think my motor is too big for the Evader, I do. It's extremely overpowered, and I think after this metal spur upgrade, and some driving habit changes, it should run powerfully for years to come. Though I'm sure most people here will disagree, I'm going to say it anyway. "You can never have too much power!"

cumquat

hence i daydream about a tekin rx8 and 2200kv motor on 4s on an evader 6s would only be fun for the first launch, due to the dogbones becoming twizzlers. and the slipper clutch being friction welded.

egbasher

Welcome funkybunch. Great deal on the evader. That motor/ESC combo Dudadude mentioned looks like a great system for the money. Not sure about it's longevity. I've been running the Hobby Wing EZRun 35A combo in my evader ext2 for a couple of years. Great little system. Tough, fast and the programming card that comes with it is easy to use and has a decent number of parameters to dial in your car to your particular running conditions. We've clocked the ext2 with a GPS at 41mph, vs. 20 or so for the stock photonspeed 2. I upgraded to the metal idler gear, (that's a must) but I still run the plastic case diff. I haven't stripped a gear yet. But I run exclusively on dirt and I have my slipper set on the loose side. If you run on pavement or some other high traction surface I probably would run the metal diff.

egbasher

I like these tires although they probably would wear pretty fast on pavement. : http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDX67
They work great with these wheels on my EXT2:http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNC2 & www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNC2

DieHarder

I just disassembled my Evader. I'm gonna clean it up, put it back together, mount the motor and a new 3CH FS receiver, then take some pics, and finish it off with a new ESC and new servo this spring. I'm also going to put a waterproof receiver box in it, along with the metal spur, and perhaps some LEDs. I'm not 100% sure on LEDs yet, as I see a STRONG chance of them coming apart while bashing.... :/

hugemika79

cant wait to see your pics dh.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Nate, about the LEDs: Here's what you need to do....each solder connection, especially wire-to-LED, needs to be wrapped with another piece of wire. Solder alone cannot hold them together. That keeps the connections from failing under bashing conditions. Secondly, use Shoo-Goo to tack the wire harness in spots to the body, and to hold the LEDs in the holes you poke them thru. (The easy way) If you're gonna use light buckets, it gets a little more complicated, but I'd think Shoo-Goo would hold them in place also. LEDs are tough. It's the solder connections that usually give you problems. That, and crappy 9V batt connectors. Don't buy cheap ones. MIght wanna email EGbasher about how he uses resistors to balance the circuits for even lighting and lower battery drain.

It'd be cool to run LEDs off the BEC or the main battery, but BECs don't usually put out the voltage necessary to run a half dozen LEDs, especially if you're running a power-hungry servo like a Savox. Easier just to use a 9V batt.

egbasher

Hey Nate, go for the LEDs. They are tough. My last set has been working great for about 4 race days. Probably 25 battery paks and lots of crashes including a snapped steering knuckle and front suspension arm. Lights were undamaged. Gotta admit that the first couple of sets I made had connection issues until I figured out how to make solder joints robust enough to withstand the constant vibration. Rob will testify as to how much vibration per lap we have (110%, right Rob?) and he is right about the solder joints being the weak point. It's the LED to LED or LED to resister connections that I wrapped a single strand of wire around both leads in a spiral before I soldered. You also need to strip more wire than you normally would so you can wrap it around the LED leads several times before soldering. Just laying it parallel or one wrap won't do it. Also use 18 gauge wire. Anything smaller will finally break from all the vibration. Oh yeah, don't buy cheap battery connector or switches (if you use one); they can't handle bashing. Trust me. If a LED lighting system stays intact for hundreds of laps around Rob's track it should work anywhere.

Here's where I get them: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/through-hole/
Lots of good info here: http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

Pic1 is my Hyper TT light system before I attached it. Pics 2 & 3 are my SubieVader

DieHarder

Man, I haven't had a lot of time lately to get the Evader cleaned up and put together. I've been working on that Simplicity snow plow tractor. Last night I made some half-links to shorten one of the tire chains. Now they just need to be welded shut. I also pulled the deck off, lubed the rear axles, and greased the clutch linkage. Tonight or Friday I still need to replace the front wheel bushings (Which we have), give it a grease job, finish painting and installing the hitch extension, adjust the steering slop, readjust the carburetor for winter temps, and pick up the plow from this one Simplicity collector guy. Lots of stuff to do yet. I probably won't get to it tonight, or my Evader, because it's snowmobiling day tomorrow, and we need to load sleds/check tire pressure/hitch up the truck/ snow blow driveway/etc. I took a pic of the front steps after I shoveled them for grandma yesterday. Let me go get the camera...

Ok, I also took some other pics of a trail around the blueberry fields behind our house. I took the dog along too. The ditch there is kind of a cool stream. It runs year-round and doesn't freeze. I tried the camera at a couple of different altitudes some really near the snow and some really up high. (For my reach anyways...) The one pic with the wood plank in it, is the handrail on our deck a few days before where a nice drift had come over it without falling. All of these pics were taken about two weeks ago, except the one shoveled front deck pic. You can see how tall those snow piles are...

DudaDude

Whats the highest discharge rating a stock evader esc/motor can handle (7.4v)

egbasher

Not sure about the max draw for the stock motor. I know that the Photonspeed 2 motor is a 20 Turn motor and the ESC is rated for motors from 20-27 turns. I would guess at maybe 15-20 amps.