DieHarder

Awesome! Glad you go it together! Make sure you used plenty of grease in the tranny, like gobs.

Those two thin black washers are most definitely necessary. They go on the axle shaft just behind the wheel pin. So between the wheel pin and the hub carrier's outer bearing race. What it does is it pushes the wheel pin/axle shaft further out, and allows you to tighten the wheel lock nuts all the way down while keeping the wheel free to spin. So if you put the washer behind the wheel pin, you should be able to tighten the lock nuts down and the wheel should spin freely instead of binding up.

I reef my slipper clutch all the way down so it never slips, but that's just me. Plus I have 32P gears with bigger stronger teeth so it can take it. However, for you I recommend that you just snug it up good and tight. Don't lock break the shaft off or overtighten it, but just so it's snug and the little slipper spring is almost fully compressed. If it slips too much when you drive it, you can tighten it up. When it slips it has a sorta high pitch scream to it. You'll know when it's slipping.

As for the camber and suspension/handling adjustments, here is the manual for the ST: http://manuals.hobbico.com/dtx/dtxc0020-manual.pdf In there near the bottom they have all sorts of info on how to tune it and such. Don't follow the recommended slipper clutch adjustment because that's for brushed motors. Nor do you have a ball diff anymore, so that's irrelevant as well. As for the camber, ride height, etc. I set my truck up like they recommend and it performs great.

T-bone Racing Bumpers - http://t-bone-racing.net/Evader-EXT-EXT2-ST-ST-Pro-c38/ Either the #17001 or #17002 should work. Rob might have a preference/recommendation.

Evader ST Green Body - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-Eva...item23424dcb6e

DieHarder

As long as the eight screws that hold the side plates of the diff are tight, it should be set. If it's working correctly, you should be able to hold the spur gear (with your hand) so that it doesn't move, then with the tires off the ground, turn one wheel and the other wheel should turn smoothly at the same speed in the opposite direction. The differential distributes power evenly between both wheels. It also keeps things from binding when going around corners because the wheel on the outside of the turn will spin faster than the wheel on the inside. The power is put through it when the whole differential itself is turning inside the gearbox.

If you are referring to the gears inside the differential feeling loose, it could be that you left out the washer that goes behind the bevel gears.


It should have been already installed though, so I'm pretty sure it's already in there. The differential should work and turn smoothly. If it's really loose, you can take it apart and check. My differential came unassembled and I had to custom order those shim/washers, but that was a rare incidence.

RustyUs

There is nothing to "tighten" on a gear diff...not in the sense like a ball diff anyway. Using different thicknesses of diff oil/grease is used to "tune" or adjust the amount of wheel spin each wheel has when going around a corner.

RustyUs

I haven't seen anyone anywhere (that I can remember) ever trying out different thickness' of diff oil in the Brushless Evader. Everytime I whip out the BL Evader PDF manual, to look at the diff assembly, I see that side note: "...Fill the differential with 20,000 oil or higher so it is 3/4 full....". I've always just used the thickest stuff I could find in the garage, which was high temp wheel bearing grease or Lucas Oil Red n' Tacky. Some day I might try using diff oil in the Evader and test the seals on the diff. For right now, I'm happy with the results of using grease. Being able to kick up some "roaster tails" from both tires, when squeezing the trigger hard, is all the diff "action/stiffness" I need to worry about when I'm out and about.

DieHarder

I use high temp bearing grease too and am very happy with the performance. I've never used diff fluid (oil) in my diff. Heck, I've never owned the stuff. The grease works great. My grease comes in a perforated green tube and has a green-yellowish tint color to it. My neighbor gets if from his workplace. He says that every bearing they order there comes with an extra tube of this grease, and they simply throw it out! So he grabs as much as he can and brings it home, and gives it me.

soad100100

Thanks Die Hard!! I bought the body! The price wasn't so bad... I think I'm okay with the Diff. I'll add the little black washers and tighten it down good.

I'll be updating soon with pics!.

Does the Evader ST decals differ than the DTX? Do you know where I can get the decal for the ST body?

DieHarder

Awesome! Looking forward to seeing how it's shaping up!

The ST decals are somewhat rare, so you're going to pay a bit more for them. I found one listing on eBay that looks legit and it's from the same guy who sold you the body. He must be parting out an Evader. lol It comes with the original manual too, so that's cool. Here you go:

Evader ST Decals/Manual - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-Eva...item234c4b2690

DieHarder

The ST decals are way different from the DT. Most of the EXT/EXT2/EXT2.4 decals will work, but I think you're better off getting the decals from the link I just posted.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

For some reason, I never found a DTX part number for those spacers that go behind the drive pin and the hub. I did find a Team Durango part that fits the bill, tho: Crunch Spacer, Front Axle (2pcs) Part # TD310032.

I always used grease in my diff too. TrakPower or Grim Racer Waterproof Gear Grease.

soad100100

What are your guy's thoughts on the following items??

• DTXC8274 - Motor Mount Plate Hard Anodized

or

• DTXC7980- Heat Sink/Motor Mount Blue Evader ST

• DTXC9315 HARD ANODIZED Light Slipper Plate http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Duratrax...item234dada7bc

Also... is this transmitter radio better than the stock one i have?...... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-Eva...item234bda18e1

DieHarder

The motor mount with the heat sink that's blue is an option part, a little more for looks and not so much for function. My motor mount never gets very warm, anyways. One thing to note though, is the ST/BX plate is the same as the EXT/EXT2 plate. It's the exact same, they just charge more for the ST plate for some stupid reason. Duratrax does that sometimes I've found. So instead of paying $10 for the regular one, you can buy this one: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSXB8&P=7 which is much cheaper and it's the same thing.

I wouldn't pay $20 for slipper plates with less metal either. Once again, more for looks than function. The stock plates are more beefy IMO and I think you should keep what you have. There is more surface area contacting the pad with the stock setup anyways.

That transmitter is worse than what you have. That is the original transmitter that came with the ST, I still have mine. I upgraded to a FlySky radio which is what most of us here on the Evader Coalition run. Get this bad boy, you'll love it and it's absolutely great:

Orange - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flysky-FS-GT...item2c98dcc990

Silver - http://www.ebay.com/itm/FS-GT3C-2-4G...item33a0ce09fa

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Heads up about the GT3C.....http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-e...wning-out.html

RustyUs

You found one? I was searching awhile back, and gave up. I did see one in the UK, I think, but the $$$ was more than I was willing to pay.

I have to agree with that.

DieHarder

I think it's just yours though, like Phmaximus said. I haven't heard of anybody else on RCU having issues with them. I have the GT3B and no problems at all, I just hate having to replace the 8 AA batteries every other month...

egbasher

One good reason to get the DTXC 7980 is it won't bend as easily as the thin stock one. I had a hard crash which slightly bent the stock motor mount plate. Never have bent the blue one.

Never used that radio. Looks very similar to the one that came with my EXT2. Not much adjustment options. I've had good luck with this one: http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html
Had it for over two years and has worked well.

egbasher

I totally agree with you about the batteries, Nate. I finally switched to NiMH bats. A set will last two full days of racing, if I remember to switch it off between races. Costs less than 1 cent to charge the set. Big money saver in the long run.

QUOTE=DieHarder;12022489]I think it's just yours though, like Phmaximus said. I haven't heard of anybody else on RCU having issues with them. I have the GT3B and no problems at all, I just hate having to replace the 8 AA batteries every other month...[/QUOTE]

soad100100

The description says it has a rechargeable battery; why are you using 8 AA?

Is there a difference between the GT3B and GT3C?



Rusty, I havent found a blue motor mount yet but mine is slightly bent and I'd like to replace it with a blue one.

soad100100

I like the look and price of the GT3B that eg mentioned..

egbasher

The GT3C is an newer version of the GT3B. The biggest difference is the older 3B uses eight AA's so it's quite a bit heavier and it has a poorer display. It's hard to see in the bright sun. The dials and buttons are slightly different but both offer a similar and good user interface. Both have the same set of parameters you can adjust. My buddy is having issues with his 3C's range, but it may be isolated to his particular radio. My 3B has no such problems. You can't beat the price for all the advanced features you get. The crappy display is a minor annoyance IMO.

cumquat

actually, there is logic behind the lightweight slipper plate set. all that metal they removed is superfluous. remember, the slipper clutch uses this friction ring http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDHJ9&P=7 so you only need that ring on the plates. removing the excess material from the plates will lower rotational mass. you wont notice much of a difference without a lap timer, but remember that back in the day these were race vehicles.

DieHarder

I see what you mean. That makes sense. I didn't think about the pad not being a more than just a ring. Thanks for the explanation. It looks cool and all, but I'm not sure the advantages of having it in a basher are worth the $20.

soad100100

Ok so I'm going with the GT3C... I live in Cali and its sunny all the time.. I'd rather have a better display..

I really like the green color one (to match the car) but cant find many... I only found this one but its pricier than the others...http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2315213...lpid=82&chn=ps . Anyone, seen one going for less?

Also, I'm going to order the t-bone bumper.. is there a preference?? looks like the 17001, 17002, and 17003 all fit the evader st.. Will they all fit with the body on?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Get the 17005 and 17003 T-Bone bumpers.
Check out Amazon for the radio http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_48n4vlv2rt_b

soad100100

I noticed that all these radios have 3 channels... whats the 3rd channel used for?

Also, does any radio tell you how fast the car is going? (sorry, if thats a stupid question...lol)

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

The 3rd channel can be used for anything, but you usually need some other device to make things work. For instance you could use the 3rd channel to turn on some lights. But you'd need not only the lights, but a radio-controlled switch that would be activated by the 3rd channel and the button on the radio.

Does any radio tell you how fast the car is going? No. Not unless the radio is already set up for telemetry, and, you have the required sensors. An example of that would be the Traxxas radios that have an iPod dock or BlueTooth capability, or the FlySky IT4.